*Ph in soil seems low added lime let’s see if this fixes the issues. *1 more week and let’s see if clones show Sex. *recovery seems great besides those dificiencies that showed up. *have not watered in a week. Will update tomorrow.

Semana sel 2 de septiembre al 8 de septiembre 8 de septiembre, fotos del dia Jueves 5 de septiembre 2024. Se regaron con Floralicius plus adicionado con Hidrol-pez + vitaminas.

Que pasa familia, puesto que la compañera y yo estamos bajo mínimos, hemos decidido proceder a un lavado de raíces temprano, y un estrés hídrico para limpiar raíces y estresarla un poco. Todo va sobre ruedas , puesto que el Covid afecta al confinamiento, decidimos cortar las gorillas estos días siguientes para secar y en nada tener algún bote para subsistir 😂🤣. -El estrés hídrico es reducir cada riego la cantidad de agua, para que la planta se estrese y escupa tricomas sus últimos días. Esta variedad de sweet seeds es INCREÍBLE, aun cortándola pronto me parece que los resultados son inmejorables, su olor a melón me encanta y se ve repleta de thc. Nos vemos en la cosecha fumetillas, y mucho ánimo para todos.

Hi all! 🤗👊 Start week 4 flower

La pianta in fondo e destra e gia quasi pronta, penso che le raccoglierò in tempi diversi perché sono maturate e stanno maturando in temp diversi

Smell is sweet and fruity, but dark...... Starting to pack in on , buds are so dense

Week 10 January - 16 January 10/1 - Last feed

Day 29 (1/4/21) Nutes: Veg A: 3.83 g/gal Veg B: 2.58 g/gal PPM: 1050 Water temp: 62°F pH: 5.8 Day 30 (1/5/21) I transplanted all 8 plants today from 0.05gal pots to 1gal pots and watered. The light is 25” away from the plants now but using a lux meter I adjusted the power of my lights to be equal to what it was before. Nutes: Veg A: 3.83 g/gal Veg B: 2.58 g/gal PPM: 1050 Water temp: 60°F pH: 5.8 Day 31 (1/6/21) Nutes: Veg A: 3.83 g/gal Veg B: 2.58 g/gal PPM: 1050 Water temp: 60°F pH: 5.8 Day 32 (1/7/21) Nutes: Veg A: 3.83 g/gal Veg B: 2.58 g/gal PPM: 1050 Water temp: 60°F pH: 5.8 Day 33 (1/8/21) Nutes: Veg A: 3.83 g/gal Veg B: 2.58 g/gal PPM: 1050 Water temp: 60°F pH: 5.8 Day 34 (1/9/21) Nutes: Veg A: 3.83 g/gal Veg B: 2.58 g/gal PPM: 1050 Water temp: 60°F pH: 5.8 Day 35 (1/10/21) Nutes: Veg A: 3.83 g/gal Veg B: 2.58 g/gal PPM: 1050 Water temp: 60°F pH: 5.8

Note : + jegliches Zubehör wird in der GermniationsWoche aufgelistet . Zeitraffer Videos folgen immer nachträglich. + videos werden so geschnitten das nur ein geschlossenes Zelt erscheint , ergo Fehlen paar reale Minuten (ca 1 Std) . ++ nur probleme mit der Zeitrafferkamera . Sorry für die Schrägen und halben Aufnahmen . Vielleicht schaff ich beim nächsten Grow da abhilfe zu leisten. Day 50: Wachstumstillstand bei 68cm . Day 51: + Höhe : 68cm + 2 Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Greenhouse Feeding BioEnhancer als PH+ Day 52: Kleine Entlaubung . Test MAX Licht : Main-Cola PPFD 1000 (16h) , sekundär Colas PPFD 750 (16h). Das wird mächtige Mangelerscheinungen geben . LED und Cal-Mag Probleme sind ja ein Standard Problem :)) Schauen wir mal was passiert bei so einer Autoflower. Day 53: + Höhe : 68cm + 1.5 Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna PH+ + + PH 5.81 Wegen Wetter Test verschiebung um ein paar Tage . Es wird hier einfach zu heiss im Zelt. Day 54: Weltuntergangsstimmung für meine Zoe . Dank des Super Wetters hab ich hier 77%-80% Luftfeuchtigkeit (draussen ist es noch höher ) und es wird auch noch warm . Ergo, schon gestern hat meine Pflanze extreme Probleme mit der Wurzeltemperatur bekommen und hat die Blätter hängen lassen . Ich hab das Licht runtergeschraubt und Abluft extrem erhöht. Ventilation direkt in die Pflanze sonst gibts Schimmel . Aber hilft halt nicht wirklich . Luftentfeuchter läuft auf Dauerschaltung und produziert dann auch noch Wärme, die ich überhaupt nicht gebrauchen kann bei den Temperaturen draussen lol. Ein Teufelskreis :(((((( Day 55: + 1.75 Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna PH+ + + PH 5.88 Draussen sind 31 Grad , ich hab den ganzen Growroom + Vorraum (meine Wohnung ) über Nacht runtergekühlt so weit es ging (23°C und 22°C). Das Licht noch weiter reduziert dafür näher an die Planze gemacht. Das ist wirklich das mindeste was noch geht. Liegt ca bei PPFD 600 an der Spitze . Wenigstens ist hier die Luftfeuchtigkeit im Rahmen , zwar immer noch zuviel (67% im Zelt) aber besser so als das hier die Hitze in die Höhe schießt . Nach 12h Licht (19:00 Uhr) wird dann wieder aufgedreht und die letzen Stunden mit mehr intensität nachgeholt was nachzuholen geht , denn dann gehen hier erst wieder die Temperaturen runter . Day 56: Läuft wie gestern ab 19:00 wurde das Licht aufgedreht und DLI nachgeholt .

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil

This last week has been great. Buds are coming to the end maturing . Trichomes are approximately 80% - 90% milky with 10% Amber. Inside the tent the smell has increased a lot. I hope the foxtailing hasn't ruined the bag quality by much but should be potent as 👌

Mi aspetto molta dolcezza da queste due piantine😇 se viene come la prima sarò molto contento!

Sugar Bomb Punch THC Bomb X (Critical Orange Punch x Bubba Island Kush). Harvested on 63 th day of flowering. A cool strain to grow from Dutch Passion 👍 4 on 4 on germination rate. The 4 ladies were slightly different from each others but they gave some very cool buds ! The "black one" was a real beauty 😍

Blütetag 58 Hey Freunde, ich hab heute spontan geerntet (leider etwas zu früh), aber jetzt kann ich mich auf Weihnachten konzentrieren und die Trichome waren fast alle milchig, also halb so wild. 🤓 Für den ersten Run nach über 10 Jahren bin ich relativ zufrieden, vor allem in der kurzen Zeit! 🦊 Die Bilder sind Leider nicht wirklich gut geworden, war ohne Lampe leider zu dunkel, aber ich mach nochmal welche wenns getrocknet is! Ich wünsch euch und euren lieben schöne Feiertage und frohe Weihnachten! 🎄💚

WOW LOOK AT DAT!!! DAT FADE IS STARTING TO COME IN!!! PLANT IS STARTING TO DRAW NUTRIENTS FROM THE LARGER FAN LEAVES!!!! SUN GOD HAS BEEN VERY VERY GOOD!!! RAIN GOD SHOWED UP FOR A LITTLE BIT DIS WEEK!!!! PLEASE COME AGAIN!!!!

Girls are getting bigger every day 💚❤️‍🔥

Vroom Vroom

Beginning of week 10 I disinfected Do-Si-Dos and Quick One with a 1:4 ratio of Purolyt (HOCL) and Cookies Gelato with a 1:50 ratio. The two plants got sprayed with a 3 bar pressure sprayer and cookies gelato with a normal handsprayer. Also gave them 1.5L of water with nutrients on Wednesday. Cookies gelato gets watered with a watering bag with 3L and 20ml each hour. Humidity in the tent is about 64% and temperature 25°. The humidity in the drying tent is about 60% and temperature 24.5°.