Que dire mise à part que se strain est tous simplement magnifique ? Il porte bien son nom, il commence à être bien Frosty! Et la couleur violet commence à apparaître de plus en plus! Les bud sont beau et dégagent une belle odeur fruité, le plant a une sacré couverture résineuse, je pense qu’elle pourrais être parfaite pour faire des extraction! Cette semaine je lui ai donné un thé de compost oxygéné, on va voir comment elle va réagir. Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zéolite 3gr granulé Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de bière 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mélasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrédients (sauf la mélasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mélasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe à air et faire oxygéné le mélange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mélasse après 12h le début de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mélasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mélange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! Pour la Frosty j’y ai incorporé 7litre de mélange La veille j’ai préparé le pot à l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphère, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactérie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphère en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sécrétant des métabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sécrétant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bénéfiques pour la nutrition et la santé des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complément alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et écologique très complet. D'une grande qualité nutritive, elle apporte à vos plantes une quantité de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minéraux, acides aminés, vitamines, chlorophylle et protéine. Le charbon végétal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les éléments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rôle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minérale. Ce pourquoi il est idéal pour activer un sol et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Le charbon végétal améliore la diffusion et la disponibilité des éléments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au développement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut être introduit dans une grande variété de sols. Il est particulièrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacité d’amendement, le charbon végétal est enrichi et biologiquement activé avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : • Charbon végétal actif 31%
• Matière organique 33%
• Matière sèche 75%
• C/N : 17
• PH : 7,2
• Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique
• Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%
• Potassium (K20) : 1,18%
• Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%
• Magnésium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrédient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minéraux, il est qualifié « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zéolithes sont des roches cristallines, présentant des capacités d'adsorption particulièrement importantes vis à vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrêmement poreuses comme les charbons activés et elles peuvent être chargées électriquement pour opérer comme des échangeurs d'ions. La zéolithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. Utilisé dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues années déjà, ce minerai aux propriétés filtrantes particulières commence à se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privée, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrément, de la récupération des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaïs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - Grâce à leur propriété hydrophile, les zéolithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'à 30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en présence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de déshydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zéolithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomérant). Cette propriété est très appréciée dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zéolithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irréversible, elles se comportent comme une réserve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zéolithes permettent ainsi de réduire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'à 35 %. - Une zéolithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du végétal. - La capacité d'adsorption et l'énorme rapport surface/volume des zéolithes, vont permettre à la fois la rétention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygénation au voisinage du système racinaire. Les zéolithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au développement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est réduit de 20 à 25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbés par la zéolithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et à l'évaporation. Composition minéralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec préparation microbienne à base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulés (1 – 1,6 mm) à base de rhizobactéries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore à partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des éléments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphère par une flore bénéfique. Composition :
• Matière sèche : 96,8%
• Matière organique : 91,5%
• N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%
• P total : 2%
• K total : 1,7% Micro-granulés : 
• Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%
• Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%
• Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de bière est une matière vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thés de compost oxygénés notamment conseillé pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons.  La levure stimule la vie des sols également à l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espèce micro-bactérienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-éléments et diverse vitamines.   Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivées spécifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivée. Se connecte efficacement au système racinaire et forme un vaste réseau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delà de la rhizosphère Composition : • Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis  La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante présentant de nombreuses propriétés. Particulièrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliée idéale pour les périodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira également comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grâce aux alcaloïdes, aux allantoïnes et jusqu'à 30% de protéine ! 100% déjection de vers de ténébrions.
Très riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matière directement composté par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matières végétales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dégradation de litière forestière. Les bactéries et autres champignons obtenus grâce au système digestif de nos vers, permettent la dégradation accélérée des éléments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des éléments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, à la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement varié de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter.  Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. Très équilibré, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblé seul ou en complément de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL • rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, Magnésium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE • Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. • Produit riche en éléments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. • Régularité de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sénescence. Analyse chimique : • NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 • N-Azote 0.1% • P205-Phosphore 18,6% • K2O-Potasse 16,5% • CaO-Calcium 11,7% • MgO-Magnésium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisée Stimule la vie du sol et la végétation. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre
ascophyllum nodosum
- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur développement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - Résistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumière mieux captée - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - Développement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-éléments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - Idéal en épandage et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Important : notre Kelp est un goémon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la même famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement à plus de 50 mètres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la Norvège.

Switching to 12-12 this week. Getting new lights next week. I wrote more comments but i closed it by mistake.

The runtz are about 45cm start of this week and the tall LCC is 75cm. She is also further into flower, but did not spread out so much in the tent. RAK seems to be very good with high PPFD, for the LCC they need a bit less I can feel.

The end is near, these plants are producing some heavy nugs! I had to start tieing the branches so they don't break under there own weight! I'm loving it, if you have to have a problem! This isn't such a bad one to have. Lol

This was the strongest growing highest producing plant in the tent produced 250g dried well trimmed flowers , the vapor is very dense with a smooth cake taste , the high is very relaxing , out off the indica tent this was the clear winner and one I'll grow again soon .

I figured nothing could go wrong with 50% amber / 50% milky trichomes. Harvest day, Medical Mass: Huge buds and no traumas but got bud rot because of too high temps. The best I've ever smoked. Harvest day, Pineapplex Express: Got an early trauma when transplanting but handled it beautifully. Potent smoke. Pretty satisfied for a first grow, and I have a lot of changes for my 2nd grow!

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Posting this as I’m on the last few days of the 3rd week from germination Great progress, a lot of roots for such a short period but not too much plant growth, will start watering daily instead of watering every 2-3 days Topped the girls today (Day 18 from germ) and starting to do mainline on all the Bubba kush.

Harvest day - I save my harvest post for the yield results so I have one more to follow. Beautiful grow though and really impressed with the yield and results. I typically only grow indoors, this is my first full outdoor grow with a photo actually. It definitely changed how I view growing seeing the plants react outdoors. Also I’m in newly legal NY state and we would not be here today if it wasn’t for people like Jack Herer fighting for us at the most difficult times to do it. Jack was born in Buffalo, NY so this grow was a grow to pay homage to a man that led the way. This strain has also won the 2nd most cannabis cups behind only Skunk #1 a strain well deserving of the Jack Herer name.

Day one of week 7! Saturday 3rd Oct. Yay I made it to week 7!! First week of flower! Flipped the lights and the girls are getting their first 12 hours of darkness as I type. As soon as it’s lights go on I’m gonna get the next lot of nutes in as they seemed almost ready for a feed when I put them to bed. Getting a little nervous the temps are a still bit high as we go into flower but these girls seem hardy so staying positive! UPDATE: Day 2 of week 7, Sunday 4th Oct. Girls still looking strong and nutes gone in again today. Got a fan blowing onto the outside of my tent (which is helping lots) as the slightly lower humidity levels are really heating things up with the dehumidifier working harder inside the tent now, especially around watering time. Fan at full whack, if this doesn’t work I may have to get an intake fan but was trying to avoid extra costs. Keeping a close eye 👁️ UPDATE: Tuesday 6th October Day 4 of week 7 Nutes in again and a little more teasing with the LST to keep the girls low on the stretch. Think I found a little white hair 🤩🤩 (see pics).... It’s getting exciting.. 🤓 UPDATE: Thursday 8th October Day 6 of week 7 Ok great news today.. All four ladies have some pretty little pistils all over various bud sites and no hermies in sight! Phew! 😅 Nutes going in too 👌🏼 Happy growing and all that jazz! 🍃🍁👌🏼❤️

Tak sem zvednul zálivku na 2 litry vody na kytku každý den. A jen koukám a nesahám. Rostou krásně. No a vypadá to že jim nic nechybí. Jen tak dál. Bambusové tyčky sem vyndal z květináčů, překáželi v zalévání. A tak sem je využil jako výstuhy stanu, aby se mi nesmršťoval podtlakem. Growu zdar.

at last we are in harvest week. im happy at all it was a good experience. my dry and cure style is this: 4 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 4 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. buds are dense and frosty but very little in size! i had some mistakes and problems with this grow so i admit i wasted them . lesson from this grow : grow autos far from fems and always give them 20 hours or more light per day to get good weight in little time.

Well, still endless white hairs at 73 days. However they are starting to tighten up good now, and trichs are starting to pick up. Hopefully I can take them down in within 7-10 days. Just tossed 2 GDP(Big Head Seeds), 1 Gelato(Broken Skull Seeds), and 1 Exodus Cheese(Green House) in the tupperware for next round, will be a bit uneven with the diff phenos but I'll weed out the best one and run that x4 next time around.

All the girls seem to be finishing up now and the leaves fading. Auto is pretty much done. Another 7 to 10 days and the others should be done too.

Day 42 350ml plain rain Well sh*t - prob moved to next set lower fans - to be expected - don't take leaves off a sick plant! anyhoo - only took 5 off - so: Def got calmag probs - overfed that - def got potassium prob - Q is still "Over or Underfeed" A is still F knows Mitigating factors are [A] that she has a lot of flower and could be crying out for nutes [B} I did misread nutes and for first 6wks was overfeeding in conflict w premix soil [C] Stardawg had exact same nutes schedule and is NOT showing signs and [D] mycorrhizal addition to soil caused probs in bot Forbidden Runtz and Stardawg - so it could be chemlock - which would be the worst coz flush only solution and I don't flush! pH 6.9 rH 45-55 Temp 22-27C Solutions: 1] H2O diet for wk and monitor - check - (day2: lower leaves further displaying calmag/potassium/phosphorous signs) 2] Nitrates to solve potassium - top dress may help - but again, I think I've overfed in conflict with soil premix, so... 3] Calmag burn is almost certainly overfeed - minimize and monitor that when nutes reintroduced << OK - basically I must have a chemlock because I have overfed but almost as importantly - the watering schedule [I water every morning under 24hr] does let the soil dry every day - some plants can handle it - Stardawg can as well as Big Bud - FR can't. So Will give her double H2O for cpl days and see. Will also pH adjust - she is in range for everything for absorption but nit if getting repeated daily chemlock - so might as well pH adjust if semi-flushing >> << Decision >> Right, I have got some serated edge tip burn in next level fans - these being last indica factory leaves - those of the lower level I left on are sick as and will come off, but leaving everything else on. She didn't seem to mind the flush - put gallon through in two goes (one was her daily water) - not much leaf twisting - buds looks good and I think that is the point ... they're doing fine from the over nute - but the veg material not so. Going to repeat flush tomorrow am but only 1/2 gal and leave her to dry out and then back to her h2O diet till Day 7 [tomorrow am will be day 3] btw flush pumped rH up to 60 so had to leave doors open all day 😕 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< AAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHH 😞😠>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Just been going over leaves after defoliating and found.... spider mites .... not nutrient based and not WPM thank the stars. Referring to the grow diaries collective - need advice Well - defoliated heavily - now know - it is wk 2/3 flowering and I was holding off on defoliating Just in Case it was chemlock BUT now I know I would be removing the most infested leaves - I went nuts and did a full sativa stage defoliate - irony is if I did it straight away this might not have happened. Gotta give props to BraveHeartGenetics - genius solution and will be borrowing my friends little handheld vacuum - she is a clean freak so will be perfect, Wind power very clean solution. Video in honor of BraveHeartGenetics - I need a joint now. Day 43 Well the spider mites are def under control. Vacuumed plants. was fine - used a dyson handheld with wide hose so could get whole leaf in without it flailing around against sides and getting damaged. Got her hands to the sky for first time in ages - good to see. Hopefully the defoliation also helps get her back in the groove - now know it's not totally nutrient based - that said of course mites screw with transpiration and chlorophyll levels so you know - not great - but hopefully over. Further to this I added a fan and a dehumidifier w 600ml capacity -should be enough to make the climate tough for mites. The last 24hrs can go screw themselves, but got some great advice so grateful as 😊 No water and suspended flushing - she looks happier I will still keep theH2O diet going and of course check for mites regularly Day 44 350ml plain rain water. Hands to the sun! omg she hasn't looked this good in wks! thank the stars 😅 Day 45 300ml plain rain - - pic she's a bit droopy but she's still having transpiration probs and has just been watered - she'll manage Day 46 300ml plain rain she still looked a little forlorn so I got the loupe out and sure enuff - more beasties. <<SO>> Got my vacuum out and cleaned the nozzle - it is an unregulated (sssshhh not v green) 1700W monster about twenty yrs old - Vacuuming your Bud [METHOD] I found it necessary to go at the buds from the side as well as top down (don't vacuum from underneath even though that's where the beasties are - I didn't even try - you will damage the plant) The nozzle was big enough to encapsulate a whole bud and it's leaves - so I repeated this motion [ahem] 1/2 dozen times and moved onto next bud I vacuumed every bud in this manner After, I checked known sites with my loupe I saw no mites - but some larvae still there So I vacuumed all again in same manner After final check I saw no larvae - I'm sure there are some remaining [RESULT] Leaf damage - very little - any heat/nute damaged tips got frayed, but the leaf veins / structure / stomata - underside leaf hairs / trichomes / pistils - no damage at all. OVERALL health condition of plant after vacuuming compared to as found: 9/10 AMMNDMNT << 6/10 >> FEED HER AFTER! Very few mites on plant & bonus: all the leaves are now conveniently 'hands to the sky'. OVERALL effectiveness in removing mites: 8/10 [CONCLUSION] I think the plant thoroughly loves this - provided it is not a routine affair, it is left in it's healthy pose - with most of a parasite removed. That said, I think it is a process that requires repeating, like a course of antibiotics; twice a day for a number of days - or spaced over several days between vacuuming, perhaps in accordance with / dictated by... spider mite life cycle. Finally - I know it sounds counter intuitive but DO use a POWERFUL Vacuum - The handheld Dyson 300 Whilst ok, just didn't do as well as my full size 1700W - result being I didn't significantly affect the mite numbers - thus a waste of time 8 hrs later she is looking fine - will repeat tomorrow Day 47 No vacuuming today - ADDED CONCLUSION - I f you have to do this - FEED her afterwards - with maybe a protracted dark spell She is looking so sick - the upside of the leaf damage you can't see but also expect she robbed her leaves of nutes as she has got lock out Going to put her in the dark for a bit - got photos will update after She had 3:1000ml Big Bloom 2:1000 Tiger Bloom Grow Big 1:1000 Calmag in 400ml plain rain water Day 48 No watering to day She actually looks good - checked her over for mites again - all clear - in evening thought maybe even a bit more color to her - maybe just lights were dimmed lol

Just watching them grow :) nothing special to add. I was considering flushing one plant this week, as I mentioned in my last post, but to be frank I didn't consider the actual flowering time and just wanted everything to be as fast as possible, which is not a good thing on my part. Now I'll feed them 1 or maybe 2 weeks longer (depending on the plant, as I'm trying to give them at least 5-6 weeks of flower (the recommended time for flower for this strain from what I can gather). I would love to hear your opinions on this. Thanks for stopping by and happy growing 🌿😁

The first day of the sixth-week flowering

Día de corte para la gran berta... No hice ningún flush por qué quiero probar la diferencia entre flush y no flush Quedan algunos cogollos abajo que falta formarse