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Apparently you can give your plant nitrogen burn with an organic fish emulsion. Live and you learn LOL
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@Hempcules
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Week 6 was somewhat challenging. Some of the plants showed signs of deficiency again, and throughout the week, I had to balance things out with repositioning and individual fertilization. This approach has worked well so far. Currently, all the plants are back on track and growing vigorously every day. My PPFD level is now around 700 PPFD. I haven't changed the watering amount much, but I gave some plants additional nutrient water instead of just plain water. Naturally, I also did a lot of defoliation in the lower areas and removed unnecessary shoots this week. Afterwards, I applied foliar fertilizer for the last time in this cycle. This time it was a mixture of Acti Vera, Alg a Mic, and Boomboom spray from Biotabs. As always, it's pretty tight in my tent, but I'm quite satisfied with the general canopy of all the plants. A significant number of buds are already developing, which makes me optimistic about the future. I hope the next week goes a bit smoother, but overall, everything is fine.
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@NSABND
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Day 57 😁👌all the queens are ok 🙏 Day 58 the queens got some fertilizer 💪😃👍 Day 59 what should i say... everything seems to fine 😃🙏👍 Day 60 the queens got some fertilizer 💪😃👍 Day 61 all queens are in good shape 😃🙏 Day 62 everything seems to be ok 🙏👌 Day 63 the ladies smells sooo goood 😍👌
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@40Plug
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Wow. Look at these beauties! Really nice buds. Nice grading from green to purple. Smell is insane.
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Great finish to a fantastic run with this cultivar! terps were citrusy gas and sweet earthy. the smoke is thick and smooth with a earthy sweet and a little gas flavor. very nice. made some gassy smelling dry ice sift hashish. Never throw away your trim!!! it's the ultimate bonus to any harvest. this was a combined White Truffle and Trop Cherry Gas hashish. Finished up with 12 ounces of flower and 36 gr hashish
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Defoliated for lateral growth on her branches…
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@ccred
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Unserer Lang Tall Sally geht es (scheint's) immer noch gut. Die Blüten wachsen, die Blätter sind nach wie vor schön gleichmäßig grün und das Terpen glänzt nur so zwischen den Blüten. Der Geruch ist längst nicht so intensiv wie ich befürchtet hatte. Mittlerweile habe ich die Kola des Haupttriebs mit zwei "Pflanzen-JoJos" stabilisiert, da sie der Pflanze zu schwer zu werden drohte. Erst hatte ich diesen Dingern nicht getraut aber sie halten die Pflanze gut, die trotzdem noch Spiel zum Tanzen hat. Ich wollte keinen Bambusstab o. Ä. in den Boden stecken, da ich befürchtete, ihre Wurzeln zu beschädigen. Sie muss ihre 1,75m in einem Topf versorgen und stabilisieren, der gerade mal 8 Liter Volumen hat. Da dürfte ihr jede Wurzel wichtig sein. ;-) Da die Tangerine Dream Auto eigentlich ein Schnell-Blüher sein soll, sind 12 Wochen schon recht lang. Aber ich habe trotzdem nicht den Eindruck, dass sie schon erntereif ist. Die Trichomen sehen doch noch überwiegend klar aus. Allerdings brauche ich auch eine bessere Lupe. ;-)
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I looked at the trichomes every 2 days this week. There are still some clear ones but they look cloudy overall. The OG Kush begins to have many amber ones. I started to flush too soon and the plants are now struggling a bit. I will harvest everything next week! The final grow area is around 1,1m x 1,1m.
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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First grow ever so I’m learning as i go..
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Sadly I lost 2 plants this week. Something stressed the garden out. Lost 1 BGK and 1 Critical.
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Now they bulk up slowly but sure All my plants get a usually Dynomyco Mycoriza treatment,because if you See how Crazy the roots goin you Never will do it without After it 💚
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@quigley
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Cruising. Kept the nutrients the same as last week as the plants are going a bit slower than advertised by crop king and Sonoma seeds. Looking like flowering will take ~10 weeks when all said and done. Minor amount of defoliation done. Will be the last time to make sure I don’t stunt these autos. And ONLY defoliating. No pruning as I’m too afraid it will stunt the plants. Lots of buds forming now. Plants looking great. Noticed that the sun shines through my windows for several hours and directly onto the plants so I have started opening up the tent everyday and letting the sun shine on them. Helping to ripen the lower buds and have them be less larfy when all said and done. This does cause the plants to drink water like no other so have had to up the volume on fertigations. I’ve been using a LUX meter to check and make sure top colas aren’t getting too much light. The thing works great! Well worth the purchase. My mothers on the other side of the tent are big so need less light and as a result I have been able to move two of their lights in close to the flowering autos. The additional light is definitely helping bulk up the plant. Currently over the two plants there is (as listed) an HLG 135w Rspec, an HLG 100 V2 3000k, an HLG 65 V2 4000k and a Mars Hydro TS600. Tons of light! I’m in isolation as 2 of my housemates got COVID. As a result, I have a LOT of time to spend babying these plants and it is paying off. See you next week!
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Processing
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ok so ive repotted the clones into bigger pots and im thinking of moving them outside tbh i wanna get rid of this strain has done it for last 2 crops took a few weeks to notice any new growth roots forming etc but now plants are looking good and ready to be vegged properly
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New week. 55-65 DLi. I am that, I am. Dodecahedron is the only platonic solid that has infite numerical pathways, (γνῶσις, gnōsis, f.)
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Logging in a little late this week but these two girls are going SO well right now. Some of the most healthy genetics I've ever dealt with and they just keep stretching. I guarantee these will yield quite a bit.
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Questa settimana come è andata? Hehehehe è andata a meraviglia!!! LEI E SEMPLICEMENTE PERFETTA!!! cresce sempre di più le cime si ammassano e diventano sempre più dure! I colori sono stupendi e il profumo di limone mi ha invaso la villa!!! La struttura della pianta e veramente robusta ovviamente dopo un lst molto scrupoloso! Veramente una grande bella signora! Rimango sempre meravigliato con i semi di fast buds, veramente secondo me e la più valida di tutti! Ho visto i tricomi con il mio lumagny 100x e sono ancora bianco/trasparenti e si ammassano sempre di più! Deduco altre 2-3 settimane penso di fare un ultima settimana di nutrimenti e poi via con il flush! Laverò le radici per almeno 10 giorni, voglio un fumo morbido e deciso! Ringrazio voi per essere qui a vedere i miei lavori e ringrazio i ragazzi di FAST BUDS per avermi dato l'opportunità di coltivare le loro genetiche!!! Un bacio a tutti voi! 💪🏼🌈🌱