Welcome to the Green House Cup 🏆. Hey everything together 🤗. This week has continued to develop super 👍. It was topped for the first time 3 days ago. I think I will not use LST this time because of the short time that remains 😅. Maybe I will do it a few more times top 😁. The Green House Powder Feeding Bio grow , and Enhancer also seems to be working, they're pretty color . Otherwise there is nothing great to report for this week. I wish everyone a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱. The Strain Wonder Pie is available at https://shop.greenhouseseeds.nl/ Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Bio Grow Feeding ( GHSC ) , Enhancer ( GHSC ) , Bio Bloom ( GHSC) ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0

3rd sept Rain is coming, Next time she will get a haircut. I will remove excess leaves for better airflow

This week I had to Lollipop again (I know is very late and I hope I didn’t stressed the plant to much). My canopy is so tick and so many overlapping leaves and buds in the center of the plant that don’t receive enough light or any at all , n combination with the RH swings that I got going on (45 and 63 RH), I’m very afraid of mold. I should have did a better job at Lollipoping from day 21. I’m inexperienced grower and I didn’t knew better. I decided is better to risk to shock the plant a little bit risking a reduction in yield then get mold or pests and lose it all. My 30 pin dehumidifier works great with the AC but sometimes when the AC( compressor) stops my RH jump at 62% -63%, witch I don’t like . I’m trying to keep the humidity around 50% but in such a small room between the AC and Dehumidifier I got big swings in temp ( 75-82) and RH ( 45%-63%) witch is not ideal but is nothing that I can do. I played with the AC and Dehumidifier setting a lot trying to keep humidity around 50% and temp around 80 degrees and that’s the best I can. My AC is set at 82 degrees and my Dehumidifier is set at 45% RH. Also during the lights off (day time) is very hard to keep the temperature In control when outside is 110-115 degrees with my portable AC (1400BTU) in the 4x 6 closet. Is crazy but I do my best to keep temp under control. This is another rocky mistake I made is trying growing weed DWC in the middle of summer where temps are 105-115 degrees constant in a closet without centralized AC port and at second level in the building. LOL Also I think I underfed her (630 PPM TDS, PH 5.8-5.9) ) and I got a Ca deficiency witch I think is the reason my flowers developed slower then I anticipated. Hopefully I’m wrong and everything will be good. P.S. I got a little bit of calcium deficiency caused by salt buildup (to much PK boost) despite my earlier belief that is underfed. I increased the PPM from week 4 (630-640TDS) to 680 TDS) on week 5 while I kept the PK booster at 3+ml l per gallon. Slightly my PPM’s was rising in my reservoir for few days until I decided that my plant can’t take that much nutrients (PK). 2-3 days after I increased the TDS I’ve noticed more spots on the lower leaves with tip burns on top ( first signs of PK toxicity). One day later found spots and yellowing of the leaves on top of the plant that indicates Ca deficiency caused by salt buildup ( PK toxicity) and reversed osmosis (hope I’m not wrong). Going into week 6 I lowered the PK boost at 1.5ml / gallon and total TDS to 640 PPM. Seems like leaves damage to stop and my PPM to stay stabile at 630-640. Trying to keep PH at 5.8 max 5.9. I will post pictures of my Ca deficiency/ PK toxicity. If you guys have any suggestions please leave me a comment.

☘️30/09 - Se encuentra en Etapa de Enraizamiento. ☘️Este diario es para participar del sorteo "Best Rarest & Smallest Pot by seedman". ☘️Estoy utilizando una de las semillas que tengo de Dutch Passion, su genética es Blackberry Kush Auto. ☘️En esta planta voy a estar utilizando el método Fotoperiodico del calendario de Top Crop. ☘️Estoy utilizando una maceta que abarca aproximadamente 1L. ☘️01/10 - voy a empezar a darle Deeper Underground de Top crop empezando por 0,5ml por 500ml de agua. ☘️03/10 - Empieza su primer semana, agregue en una botella 500ml de agua con 0,5ml de Deeper Underground. ☘️10/10 - Empezó su segunda semana de enraizamiento y también agregue en una botella 500ml de agua y 0,5ml de Deeper Underground. ☘️17/10 - Empieza su primera semana en Etapa de crecimiento. ☘️En total van hacer dos semanas en Etapa de Enraizamiento, con 1ml en total de Deeper Underground. ☘️Estos días estaré subiendo más imágenes de como va su crecimiento.

I will be chopping the blueberry og. So Removed BBxOG from the scrog two days into this week. Was a lot of work and accidental chopped off a giant top. Oh well. Will try to get drying space tonight

🍬

Getting solid and developing a lot of orange pistils and the tricomes are lookings super frosty. About 2 weeks left then out to the moon we go!!! Hope its a good grade (quality high), I decided to make Velevet because the flowers looked beautiful to not try out. This will be the last feed then flushed for the next feed. Going to drench it until it reaches a desirable ppm level in the soil. That would make it start eating itself sucking out all the nutrients providing a smooth smoke and a great after taste. When you dont flush you get a better taste and why would you want to smoke nutrients? Gotta make the leave turn yellow then you know its good. This is almost the end and thankfully its been going good so far, see you soon!!!

3/23/25 - Today marks the start of week 2 of flower. I top-dressed the soil with Gaia Green 2-8-4 at 2 tablespoons per gallon of soil, Gaia Green 4-4-4 at 1 tablespoon per gallon, and worm castings at ½ cup per gallon. I watered with 1 liter of water, pH’d to 6.6, mixed with 1 tablespoon of fermented plant juice per gallon. Light is at 740 ppfd.Everything is looking good as the plants continue to transition into flower 3/25/25 - added water to the reservoirs today. PH'd to 6.5 3/29/25 - Filled the reservoirs because they were bone dry. Plain water PH'd to 6.2

This is my very first indoors plant. The buds are very dense and have a strong smell. Bringing her up has been quite easy and the new mars hydro tsw2000 light has done a great job. Have trimmed most of leaves off and in 48 hours darkness and she is ready for harvest. Very very satisfied with this girl

Jour 76 Et commence à développer leur pistils Les plantes sont saine et prennent beaucoup de hauteur je dois en palisser quelques une J’ai fais un thé de compost oxygéné pour les booster pour la floraison Recette : 5g cendre coque de ricin 25g biochar 5 gr levure de bière 4gr pollen d’abeille 7gr ortie micronisé 5gr spiruline 10gr tourteau de karanga 8gr Kelp 20gr zéolithe chabasit 5gr de consoude 3gr hydrolysât de Kelp 5gr vers de farine 12,5gr bactérie soluble 5gr levure saccharomyces cerevisae souche myco 6420 12,5gr de prêle sauvage sécher 125gr lombricompost 2gr big foot mycorhize gold Mycorrhizae (400 propagules per gram) Endomycorrhiza Glomus aggregatum -100 propagules/gram Glomus etunicatum – 100 prop/gram Glomus intraradices – 100 prop/gram Glomus mosseae – 100 prop/gram Bacillus subtilis – 350,000,000 cfu/gram Bacillus licheniformis – 200,000,000 cfu/gram Bacillus megaterium – 200,000,000 cfu/gram Bacillus simplex – 200,000,000 cfu/gram

825 watts All healthy . Not much going on .

This week I did a compost tea which they really liked. I just watered them with water. Ph 6.3. They’re still growing slowly but I think l figured out why. I had a light coming off of my extension chord that was in the tent. I didn’t realize it till last night & thank goodness I did.

Semana de lavado y finalizamos este cultivo. Muy contento con esta cepa la cantidad de cogollo es mas que adecuada y la de tricomas creo que se ve a simple vista. Y el olor es bastante fuerte. En la siguiente entrada os mostrare el resultado en seco de esta maravilla

🏆 Harvest Report – MAC n Cheese 🌱 Strain summary: MAC n Cheese delivered a solid mid-range yield with strong structure, excellent trichome coverage, and a clean fade during flush. 📦 Dry yield: 106.97 g of trimmed, dry buds 🌿 Plant traits: • Compact structure with a balanced canopy • Aroma: a mix of cheesy and cookie-like notes, slightly spicy with a creamy undertone • Flush was clean and effective – no signs of stress or imbalance • Buds were heavy, resinous, and matured evenly across the plant 📝 Final verdict: A reliable strain with strong visual appeal and consistent growth. Very manageable, even in the final weeks, and responded well to EC control and light defoliation. Terp profile leans toward dessert-like funk – definitely a keeper for future runs! 💧 Grown with: Advanced Nutrients Masterline (pH Perfect) Plagron Lightmix / Coco (80/20 blend)

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

She said, "Where we goin'?" I said, "The moon" We ain't even make it to the room She thought it was the ocean, it's just the pool Feeding 💧 Always foilage with T-rex Shield, MegaKelp+Recharge 25/5 Water 8L+Si 2ml+BioGrow 8ml+TrexGrow 8ml+Calmag 4ml+Whiteroot 4ml ppm530 ph6 27/5 Flush ph6.3 ppm27 29/5 Water 3L+Si 1ml+Calmag 1ml+BioGrow 4ml+TrexGrow 4ml+Recharge1tsp ppm600 ph5.5

We got the grow tent setup this week. Pretty impressed with the quality. At this point the 2nd plant had died and it was down to just the 2.I was out and about at Canadian tire and decided to check there plant foods. I found some future harvest easy grow +. I decided to buy it so I had some food before I managed to get out to a local store I was recommended to. I gave them the aggressive feeding of 1tbsp per gallon. I gave about 3L between the 2 plants. The next couple of days were amazing. They had grown more in 2-3 days then they had there entire life! I had the dimmer at 50% and figured that was fine for now. It was about 18 inches away. At this point I started realizing I was having a bit of humidity problems so I ordered a humidifier and that’s another week away. I got the humidity up to 45 after that picture and it has been between 43-45 since.