Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Hi everyone :-) . The clone is developing well and has beautiful roots. This week it was poured once because it doesn't need much. It was also topped once. Otherwise everything was cleaned and checked. Have fun and stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. You can buy this Strain at : https://greenhouseseeds.nl/ ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Green House Seeds Company Cup Clone 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Nutrients : Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8

All 10 plants that were to be ready for the Christmas season are completing their flowering phase. By now they are together with the laggards of the previous cycle and therefore they will be collected a little at a time between Christmas and next year. I will post more detailed photos for each harvest 😉 In this diary I posted all the photos of the past week including images of the two plants already collected.

Glue31 - Compound Genetics Day 19 - watered with 0.5L of water with defined nutrients, mixed in order and then pH'd to 6.3... She is growing vigorously and is already the same hight as the other plants in the tent! I removed one fan leaf to improve light, but other than that, I'm just letting her grow 🙏🏻

Buenas a tod@s... Empezamos con la primer semana de flora, se las ve muy bien de momento, crecen fuertes y uniformes, algunas hojas marcan exceso, pero v atodo bien... Esperomos sacar buena cosecha en lo q respecta a calidad y cantidad, q ver q sale, de momento q crezcan fuertes y sanas... Un saludos y buenos humos... 💪🏻🏻😎

Girls are thriving to the max looking like an awsome harvest coming in around 6 more weeks From the rate they are growing its going to be at least 8 ounces hopeing for close to an elbow(pound) My ppm went up to 1420 from 1160 cant get to some fresh water till tomarrow . having no sighns of stress hope it will be ok till i can bring the ppm back to the 11 hundreds .Im the one stressed atm crossing my fingers the girls dont get burnt before tomarrow

Good growth on them little bit of nutrients burn on the northern lights. Won’t get much out that small one but I just couldn’t let it go

Little stress from the scrog and not drinking as fast as normal. They will come around I’m sure. Gave them a second top dressing after about two weeks. A little more feeding than what is recommended plus the liquid kelp, calmag, Herculean harvest, and recharge. Just making sure they are loaded with enough N to get thru stretch and early flower. At least that is the logic. Considering it may take weeks to break down some of the Gai Green 444 all purpose but it’s all you can do!

Starting to realise why it is called Northern Lights, it is glowing even in the dark. Plant looks healthy, enjoying it's mid flowering party.

Looking good. Shes stretching like crazy! Showing some more little pistils on some bud sights. I watered her with nutes yesterday night and checked on her today and shes getting a little yellow i know its not light burn because i moved my light up higher the night before just in case. gonna wait and water her heavy with some regular water Other than that shes getting as hell

They are all showing preflower and chugging along nicely.

Wie in den anderen Tagebüchern schon gesagt, fehlte mir zwischendrin leider die Zeit schöne Fotos zu machen. Aber kurz vor Ende musste ich mir die Zeit nehmen diese schöne Dame zu fotografieren. Sie hat sich extra schick gemacht. Die Blüten sehen wunderschön aus und duften nach herrlichem fruchtigen Kuchen. Ein paar Tage darf sie noch stehen und ausreifen. Die Trichome wechseln gerade zu Bernstein.

previous watering was fed with liquid nutrients, my temperatures are not low so the nutrients come slowly with some intervals giving only water without much runoff occurring a mixture of soil and mycorrhizae for better performance i know i needed calcium and magnesium good the problem was money, i will continue with epsom salt the option i have direct sulfur in the soil has helped me hear a visible change. water ph 6.2 solution temperature 20 ° - 0.50 g of great white mycorrhiza 2 days earlier were sprayed with water without ppm via leaves - lights off to serve as a cooling shower in the heat is great for stomata . Simple led panel added as main light source 260watts being divided to 3 plants in the fullspectro tent model, did not get much difference in temperatures compared to HPS, is more the same spectro ratio and UV to reach more directly in the trichomes and terpenes. Large leaves, like a true sativa even if they are long, go in equally straight and thin shape, trichomes with glands larger than their sister, but this one in front really does not hear physical stress from something just high temperature training, but are very resistant To this, I imagine later on taking this same genetics at favorable temperatures and hydro. A strong smell that I will have to turn to buy a filter, I can not with curious and malicious neighbors need to really contain the smell.

I'm going to give her the chop sometime this week. Giving her one final watering today, then I'm going to let her dry out til harvest. She smells fucking awesome, super aromatic. It's quite obnoxious not being able to find anything on this strain. But I'll try and describe what she's like. For one, I'd say that once you've got an established plant, it's very painless to grow. I didn't measure waterings or nute feedings. Treated her like a tomato plant basically. The smell is incredible, super fruity with just a hint of skunk... and given the character this strain is named after(💩), let's just say that's a very pleasant surprise 😮 We're in the final stretch of her growth here. I'm not expecting too much yield wise by this point. I want an OZ, so I'm hoping this extra week will get her to chunk up just a bit more. Cheers fellow growers, I would recommend other Ethos strains before this one. But if you're accustomed to their Genetics, this is definitely worth copping for the experience. Really excited to see how she smokes! 🤑😎 Update 10/28/21: Something made me decide to give her a flush and maybe a week or two of extra time. I think she'll start doing the purple fade thingy, as I see purple on some of the tips of calyxes and sugar leaves. I hope for one crop like this every year.. Flushed her yesterday and took the updated pictures(the ones in the dark) today. Looks like she REALLY put on some weight between yesterday and today. I mean I had to stake her up, that's how chunky she's getting. The stems and branches look like they're on the brink of snapping 😳 Looking back, I don't think I've had a plant get this chunky by this point in flower. Makes me super excited I have more beans of this stuff. I may end up leaving a lower branch to chuck her into the veg tent post-harvest, I'm seriously that in love with this strain.

X

Hello growers, Welcome back for vegetative week 13 of the Pineapple Upside Down from Humboldt. This week was intentionally very calm, with no intervention on the plant. The goal was simply to let it continue its development naturally and observe how it behaves after the previous adjustments. The plant has grown slightly, but overall the growth still feels somewhat slow and lacking vigor. It’s not stalled, but it doesn’t have the level of energy and drive you would normally expect at this stage. This is especially noticeable in the leaves. They don’t look as healthy or as vibrant as they should, and there’s a general impression of reduced vitality. Despite that, there are no clear symptoms pointing toward a specific deficiency or problem. All parameters seem to be properly dialed in. The pH is stable, the EC is under control, and the environmental conditions are consistent and within a good range. That’s what makes the situation a bit frustrating — everything looks correct on paper, yet the plant still appears slightly underperforming. For now, the decision is to avoid overreacting. No adjustments, no additional stress. The plant is simply being left alone to grow and hopefully regain some natural vigor over the next few days. Looking ahead, the transition to flowering is approaching. The plan is to flip the plant within one to two weeks, depending on how it evolves and whether it regains a bit more strength. At this stage, patience and observation remain key. Alright growers, take care and see you next week.

420Fastbuds FBT2314/Week1 Week 1 update on these new sprouts. Been a week since they sprouted and so far seems good. I did switch from misting the top soil with my sprayer to feeding 500ml of water and 1/4tsp/gal strength General Hydroponics Calimagic about every other day. Over all Happy Growing

First ever Outdoor Grow after legalization in Germany 01.04.2024. The Cheese went huge and I fucked up my first dry of course 😂

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia