Trichromes cloudy with a touch of amber. The smell is amazing similar to tropical fruits very sweet smell.

Cosecha

Woche 5 - Vorletzte Woche der Vegetation und beeindruckende Entwicklung Die fünfte Woche markierte die vorletzte Vegetationswoche, und die Pflanzen zeigten weiterhin bemerkenswertes Wachstum und Gesundheit. Die Nährstoffe und das Gießschema blieben unverändert, wobei der EC- und pH-Wert sowohl im Drain als auch in der Nährlösung stabil auf optimalem Niveau waren. Die Luftfeuchtigkeit wurde leicht auf 60 % gesenkt, während die Temperatur weiterhin im Bereich von etwa 22 bis 26 Grad blieb. Die Pflanzen setzten ihr Wachstum in beeindruckendem Tempo fort und entwickelten enorme Seitentriebe. SPOILER !!!: Ohne jegliches zusätzliches Training bildeten sich am Ende der Woche 16 bis 18 Hauptnebenbuds sowie jeweils ein zentraler, kräftiger Headbud. Die Genetik dieser Pflanzen erwies sich als absolut außergewöhnlich. ENGLISH Week 5 - Final Week of Vegetation and Remarkable Development The fifth week marked the penultimate week of vegetation, and the plants continued to show remarkable growth and health. The nutrient and watering schedules remained unchanged, with EC and pH levels stable at optimal values, both in the nutrient solution and the drain. Humidity was slightly reduced to 60%, while temperatures stayed in the range of 22 to 26 degrees Celsius. The plants kept growing at an impressive rate and developed enormous side branches. Without any additional training, by the end of the week, they formed 16 to 18 main side buds along with a strong central head bud. The genetics of these plants proved to be absolutely outstanding.

03/18/2021 Flowering is starting!

This week has been a little better. Recovering from the ph and phosphorus deficiency issues. New growth has been a little better. Finally got rid of the crispy leaves from the deficiencies. I knew I was getting into a tough one with 200 ml of dirt. I just wanted to see what happened. I have learned a lot on this one. Buds are getting a little bigger each day. Merry Christmas and frosty buds to all.

Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. I don't recommend. Adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

Plant packing on the weight, trichomes starting to form. Some fan leaves have dried up and fallen off, bringing new light to the bud sites! Little splash of big bud added, to try keep the weight on.

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Just chuggin along this week, didn't do much... struggled to keep temperature at stable 68°

Day 84 Jungle Jimmy 70 cm / Day 85 Pink Cookies 102 cm: Nothing to do today. Day 85 Jungle Jimmy 70 cm / Day 86 Pink Cookies 102 cm: Nothing to do today. Day 86 Jungle Jimmy 70 cm / Day 87 Pink Cookies 102 cm: Nothing to do today. Day 87 Jungle Jimmy 70 cm / Day 88 Pink Cookies 102 cm: Nothing to do today. Day 88 Jungle Jimmy 70 cm / Day 89 Pink Cookies 102 cm: Nothing to do today. Day 89 Jungle Jimmy 70 cm / Day 90 Pink Cookies 102 cm: Nothing to do today. Day 90 Jungle Jimmy 70 cm / Day 91 Pink Cookies 102 cm: I harvested Jungle Jimmy at day 50 after switching to 12/12. I want to try out, how it is to harvest a bit earlier, when all trichomes are cloudy an almost no amber ones are showing. So, there is only Pink Cookies left. -------------------------------------------------------------- 🙏 Thanks for visiting and follow for daily updates 🌱

Whitout nutrients Pure nature Only water👽👌✊😆

Hey everyone! 👋 Another week and another update, and in this week I finally flipped my babies! (and it wasn't a failed attempt) 😍 They are now in the 12/12 cycle and I must say last week's recovery was crucial to finally do it! Besides of all that this week was quite uneventful compared to the other ones (which I suppose is a good thing! 😝) The only things worth mentioning besides what I already wrote is that I overfed my babies (double dosage) but it seems they took them well and that Boomer and her sisters (specially Boomer) get thirsty really fast compared to before... which means I need to water them more frequently which isn't terrible. I also finally have some new time lapses 😊 I hope you all enjoy them! Thanks for reading! 🙌

Last week I fought some yellowing of the leaves. Did some small adjustments on PH to keep it in the 5.6 range. Seemed to stop it from progressing. For Week 3 Veg I topped the plants. I plan to flip the lights at the end of week 3 and move into flower. Lights are still at 25% power Day 17 Leaves are getting darker. Everything is looking good. Day 18 Turned room temp down to 73F from 76F. Fearing it is warming up my res tank too much. Day 19 Starting to get yellowing again. checked everything and can't find a good reason for it. Did notice some cloudiness in my res tank. Added 2 ML/Gal of peroxide. have Hydroguard on the way to help. I'll be adding more fans this weekend. I have light air movement currently. Also found a few spider mites and sprayed Greencleaner to all plants. Current environment settings: Room Temp 72.74 F Room Humidity 63.63% (After spraying, Trending down). Room CO2 589PPM Tank PH 5.718 Tank PPM (500 Scale) 813 Tank Temp 74.5 F Day 20 Recalibrated my EC probe just to be sure it was also accurate. wasn't off by much. Dialed back my flooding to every 5 hours to encourage Rooting. <-- Strong roots = strong Plants Sprayed for mites again.

Well! We are looking great! I filmed one time and it paid off! Will be doing more branches next run. (LONDON POUND CAKE) anyway got some good dark purple coming in strong!!

Hey all, its our 2nd week after casing drop. Facing some issues with Night temp, sometimes it could fall to +12C, thinking about how to improve it. Also concerned about slow growth because of that. Using just 1/3 of Plagron recommended dose. Modified a bit my tank, made some technical window. Also set up automatic irrigation, because wool started to dry up during the day Upd Sunday 10.12.2023, Decided to put Babys finally to Seramis. Washing ceramics is some kind of hell: -First, I decided to sift all the dust through a sieve, stood in a half-bent position with bags of Seramis for 30m (my back didnt like it), but there was a lot of dust. -then I decided to check the Ph and rinse thoroughly. Although the package says 5.5-5.7 Ph, after the first flush with a balanced solution at 5.5 Ph, there was 6.5 in the drainage. - I was concerned by the very muddy brick colour water, then got tired of mixing 5.5 in a bucket for flushing and decided to rinse it with tap water from shower and then balance it back to 5.5 Ph . As a result, I poured from the hose for another 30 minutes until the water became more or less transparent. -I also tested FloraFlex discs, they drip great and, although round, fit perfectly into my square grow bags. -Meanwhile, the Milwaukee Ph meter broke down, even the readings of the calibration buffer were changing from 4-6 Ph within one minute. In the end, I spent another 30min and half a bottle of buffer on this too. It’s good that i had yellow Chinese Ph meter, which even after 3 years of rest in the box showed accurate buffer readings. -Finally, the Ph of the drainage was 5.5-5.7 and it was transparent, so I began to move it into the growbox. I sprinkled it as much as I could, it was impossible to dig deeper. The plants do not yet reach the matrix disk, so for now they will grow with the usual felt. -The cap of the tank is very thin and cannot withstand the weight of 2 grow bags, I’ll have to come up with something else, maybe I’ll put some kind of drainage grid. Watering will be from a tank with a mixed solution of 5.8 Ph and 1.1 EC.

Mucha resina, por todos lados flores. Exelente genética Se riega cada 3 días con aprox 2 litros por planta, le gustan los fertilizantes. Tiene tricomas hasta en los tallos, impresionante de resina. Se aplicó bioenhancer 1 gr/L

Third week its here now

NOTE 1: Afgooey Auto pheno #3 turns out it's a MALE. Resembled nothing like her two sisters ran at the same time. In fact, I had to move her to the 12/12 tent to initiate flowering. Little did I know or expect She would be a He. Lola by the Kinks is rattling round my brain about now ;) FEEL FREE TO HIT THE LIKE BUTTON IF YOU LIKE WHAT YOU SEE ;) 2x4 French Macaron - at the time of this posting, FM is heading into week 8 flower. Second extensive flushing w/fresh rain water due to acidic conditions (ph >5). Been struggling with ph the entire flowering. I speculate ph issues due to over feeding. Ph is roughly 5.8 to 6.0 after flushing. At this point, flushing with plain RO water until harvest. NOTE 2: I've introduced two 5 gallon bubble buckets into the 2x4 grow tent. Both buckets have medium air stones running from a 125 gph air pump. Given French Macaron isn't scheduled for harvest until mid-January, I might not have cutting ready. First grow may have to be from seed. Update later. 3x3 Afgooey Autos and clones from previous grow - Afgooey #1 and #2 are firing on all cylinders. #2 running a bit acidic (>5), so flushed back to neutral with roughly 7-8 gallons of fresh rain water ph at 7.0 to 7.2. Same with clones (i.e., ph very low). Flushed with fresh rain water too. A couple days later plants look so much better. Wait till plants nearly dry before next watering. Trimmed and cleaned up three of the clones growing weird. Felt a bit like trimming a bonzai tree. Let's see how they respond.

This one is foxtailing hard lol. I think it's ready like the malana bomb as there is some amber on the calyxs. Should be cutting boxing day. Smells sweet as the name suggests looking forward to taste.