Continuing on my feed schedule, every 2 days with one full gallon of bubbled RO water. Smell is increasing on initial opening of the tent doors. The smell is a funky coffee chocolate hint, amazing. Can’t wait over the next 2 weeks. All tops are basically tied with bamboo stakes. The pistils are starting to fill in as the buds swell. Continuing with light defoil as leaves shade Bud sites. Thanks for looking everyone, please leave a comment and let me know how it’s going, any pointers as this is my first photo period plant. Cheers!

WHATS NEW..? PRETTY MUCH NOTHING HAHA. TEMPERATURE IS NOW WAY MORE IDEAL AND BUDS SLOWLY START FORMING. ALSO THE SMELL STARTS TO GET STRONGER. KEEP ON GROWING, SMOKING & ENJOYING LIFE ☢️👽💨

19.07.21 Anfang der 4 blüte Woche alles läuft soweit OK hab die Lampe heut wieder 3cm höher gehängt da einige Blatt spitzen anfangen zu verblassen denke mal das das Licht zu intensiv war, hoffe natürlich das ich die Ladys nicht über düngt habe. Hab auch die bloom dosis um 1ml/L herabgesetzt also jetzt nur noch 3ml/L anstatt maximaldosis 4ml/L. Blätter von den gegenüberliegenden buds fern halten war heut auch wieder angesagt und unterm netz halten sowieso...... 20.04.21 wie gedacht hatte meine Pflanze Licht stress glaub ich zumindest die oberen Blätter sind heller geworden aber jetzt fängt sie auch noch an ihre Zähne am Rand der Blätter hoch zu Rollen glaube das ist überdüngung Hab es mal wieder übertrieben...... 21.04.21 danke erstmal an alle die mir so schnell auf mein Hilfe gesuch geantwortet haben. Ich hab mir diesbezüglich meine Gedanken gemacht und mich entschlossen das ich den Dünger wieder runter schraube da ich ja auf gut abgestimmter Erde und nicht auf coco züchte sollte ich wohl eher weniger benutzen dessen bin ich mir jetzt bewusst geworden (hätte ich auch selbst drauf kommen können ich dussel). Die Lampe lasse ich jetzt auf 30cm Abstand da ich nicht das Gefühl habe das nach 2 Tagen 30cm das verblassen weiter fort schreitet (wird aber weiter beobachtet). Morgen ist giessen dran werde dann nur Wasser mit green sensation geben und beim nächsten giessen dann wieder mit minimal Düngung weiter machen um die Pflanzen nicht zu sehr zu stressen.... 22.04.21 hab heute gegossen und auf dünger verzichtet soweit bis auf Green sensation 1ml/L und hab nochmal drüber nachgedacht wann das Problem mit den hoch rollenden Zähnen der Blätter anfing das war nach dem letzten giessen 2tage später nach dem ich wieder sugar royal gegeben hatte hätte den wohl lieber wieder weiter unten anordnen sollen von der menge her naja ich lerne dazu Fehler müssen sein sonnst hätte ich ja nix zum lernen is ja auch langweilig...... 23.04.21 glaube die Ladys mästen sich jetzt da wo gestern noch minimale Lücken an den buds waren sind jetzt keine mehr das Wachstum is eingestellt seid 4 Tagen kam nix mehr an Höhe dazu. Ab jetzt kann sie Dann auch Figur an nehmen und ordentlich Gewicht zu legen hoffe es geht weiterhin so gut voran bis jetzt bin ich mega glücklich das es so gut klappt Ach ja und das Blätter runter schieben unters netz hab ich jetzt ein gestellt es wird einfach zu klebrig da zwischen den buds und ich will die trichom Köpfe nicht permanent berühren, nicht das ich noch irgendeine krankheit mit an schleppe oder andere Keime bzw. Beschädigungen anrichte an den Köpfen (ich desinfizieren meine Hände immer gründlich bevor ich an den Pflanzen hand anlege meistens doppelt und dreifach, hab aber trotzdem schiss man Weiss ja nie was so an Bakterien und keimen überlebt)..... 24.04.21 hab heute nix ich wiederhole NIX gemacht an den Pflanzen war einfach zu faul war sogar zu faul zwischen durch mal zu schauen was die Temps und die Feuchtigkeit so machen deshalb kann ich heute nicht viel erzählen....... 25.04.21 diese woche lief auch wieder garnicht mal so schlecht ich bin echt erstaunt darüber das die Pflanzen so gut voran schreiten drückt mir die Daumen das das so bleibt.......

🗓️ 6° WEEK FLO // DAY 36-42 (from switch) // DAY 113-119 (from dry seed) ⚡- Light: 30 cm / 250 watt; ⌛- Schedule: 12/12; 🌡️- 22° C - 65% RH average; 📑- PH 5.9 - EC 2.3. PH is dropping on the #2. I'll change the DWCs next week, meanwhile I'm trying to keep the PH in the right range; 💧- 7° DWC change; 🍔- Flowering blend: tap water EC 0.4 + Silic 0.5 ml/l + CalMag 1 ml/l + Hydro A-B 1.8 ml/l + Oligo Spectrum 2 ml/l + Green Sensation 1 ml/l; 🌱- Things are moving forward, both are gaining weight. 🆕- Last week I got the TrolMaster TCS-1 (@TrolMaster_Europe) and I started to track my grow box data. I will add these info once I harvest!

Start of week 7 and plants are taking off The indica dominate phenos are showing signs of crowning and the sativa dominate phenos budlets are starting to connect. 2 more weeks of fertilizer then straight water till harvest.( 10 week flower) Also killed off 6 sativa dominate ( clones) they just take too long to set their flowers.

Semaine de pluie plus des FIM faite au hasard et des taille apicale sur toute les secondaires pour réduire la taille de la plante. Elle grandit énormément et resiste a TOUT. trop d'engrais ? Aucun soucis , pas de soleil ? Oklm pour quoi faire ? Pas possible de mettre de l'engrais ?" Bof tu m'en a mis pour 3 semaine dans la geule"

Replanted in a 3 gallon,using a super soil by frosty gardens nyc.. Also using 3500k AutoCOB from cobshopnet.

More lessons learned. Temps in the tent were hard to keep below 26-27, so I followed the VPD chart to see that early vegging plants can thrive in the 70-75% RH range under those temperatures. They did quite well for a while, and I was seeing some very very promising growth vs. what I had going on in previous weeks. However, they continued to grow closer and closer to my new (and more powerful than my past) LEDs. I was gone for 36hrs and by the time I came back to my plants I noticed widespread light burn on the leaf tips of ALL my plants (helping me eliminate a lot of possibilities).

This is my first time topping a plant... and it ended up being the tallest I’ve ever grown lol. Tried to clean up the lower half of the plant pretty well. Ended up with a few stretchy stalks, but for the most part they stacked evenly and pretty close. Rubbing the stem smells like pungent clementine and cheese, excited to see what terpenes this one will produce.

Día 59 (29/07) Este cultivo no es muy entretenido con solo agua, asi que... Le hago supercropping a todas! 😁 A ver como reaccionan! Día 60 (30/07) Las plantas se están recuperando muy bien del supercropping! 😁 Todos las puntas hacia arriba! 💥 Come onnnnnnn! A por esa floración en 2-3 semanas! Riego 500 ml H2O pH 6,75 Día 61 (31/07) Las plantas se han recuperado genial del supercropping y están lanzando TODAS las ramas hacia arriba 😍 Un espectaculo la fuerza de estas plantas! 💥 Redistribuyo las plantas, para ver si OnionOG está más protegida del sol, ya que consume muchisima agua y voy a estar en unos días fuera... También reubico ligeramente la malla de sombreado, debido a que en mi latitud el sol empieza a incidir lateralmente por las tardes... Riego 500 ml H2O pH 6,55 Día 62 (01/08) Vuelvo a redistribuir las plantas en el invernadero dejando a OnionOG todavía más protegida del sol directo, para tratar de disminuir su consumo de agua estos días que no voy a estar... Pongo una protección "visual" en el invernadero en el lado que da a los vecinos (cara norte), porque he "cazado" miradas indiscretas... Riego 500 ml H2O pH 6,55 Día 63 (02/08) Debido a que me voy de vacaciones unos días, adelanto el riego semanal con Té y la aplicación foliar de Kelp Riego con 1 Litro de Té Vegetativo de Lurpe Solutions. Preparación: 24 horas con bomba de aire (oxigenación) con ingredientes: Green Sunrise 8 ml/L + Insect Frass 16 ml/L + Hummus Lombriz 8 ml/L + Melaza 1 ml/L + Kelp Hidrolizado 0,25 g/L Aplicación foliar Kelp hidrolizado de Lurpe Solutions a 0,25 ml/l Día 64 (03/08) Cerrado por vacaciones Día 65 (04/08) Mi amigo viene a casa a hacer un riego con 1 Litro de H2O pH 6,5 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Day 71: The left plant is starting to show some of the same problems I see on the right plant so I am going to flush her too tomorrow. I think that it is mostly due to the light stress from before, it is just showing now, but to be safe she gets a flush too @5.8 ph Day 73: Hmmmm... It is difficult to see if the problem persists, or its just the affected leaves that will not recover. Should I remove these "sick" leaves? - They seem to be happy abut the new light intensity as some of the problems is defiantly improving like the leaves are praying, and the sides of the leaves does not seem to bend as much. I have been very gentle with the feeding, after having done 3 flushes (15L at 5.8 ph) and have updated my feed schema above Day 75: I am sure that I had some light-stress, and it is over now, but I don't think I see a full recovery.... I think I see the leaves to get more yellow but it might just be as mentioned before, that the sick leaves won't recover but I do not know what to do from here. Should I just leave them, or do you growmies have any suggestions? The grow has, and is, very slow in my opinion but I still see progress UPDATE: I decided to doe some heavily defoliation. It might have been too much for the left one. I haven't done much defoliation, but they where so bushy, that I thought it was necessary to get light on all my buds. Also I wanted to get rid of those "sick" leaves. I think I am on the right track, and the symptoms I see are old problems now

Respect for all of you, brother farmers! masters and beginners! thank you again for gathering on the pages of my diaries! we carry out our work with dedication and live on ambition! Come on guys!🙌👽🙌 WE WANTED TO CELEBRATE WITH YOU OUR 3 YEARS OF AGRICULTURE ON THE PLATFORM. GREETINGS TO THE FRIENDS OF @GROWDIARIES WHO MADE THIS POSSIBLE!

Week 3 Watered Plants Ph Water 6 Used 2.5 Ml Of Recharge Still Using Living Soil 18/6 Hour Light INTRODUCE LST TO PLANT Noticed Plants Growing At Different Rates Idk Why All Sprouted Same Day Weird

hi to all, masters and beginners! welcome to a new week of cultivation with the peaky queen let's cook these flowers a little more to make sure they have more powerful effects and to make the lower part develop well stay up to date!! we will begin by removing some of the excess nutrients in the soil and then giving only water on the next round 😎👽

Hola amigo! 💐 Cuarta semana para estas Dos Green Crack F1 Automatic. 💐 _ LLENO DE BOTONES _ Ellas son realmente rápidas, de momento estoy muy contento con cómo funciona esto para mí. Siempre he tenido un poco de rechazo a las automáticas, no les voy a mentir 🤞. Ahora ese pensamiento desaparece y he aprendido la técnica ideal para darles tamaño en su momento vegetativo 🤜🤛 La línea de @xpertnutrients me convence mucho, el agua inicial tiene un pH de 7.7 aprox y con la mezcla en el orden adecuado el pH se regula sólo! Trabajan en sincronía con el suelo vivo del fondo, que contiene la poca humedad de la maceta textil. Ph: 6.1-6.5 EC: 700 PPM 020+/020- HR: 65% 5+5-. C⁰: 19-26% Manta térmica 24 x 7 con plato. . !! .19 horas de luz: 2 x TS600 LATERALES. !! .15 horas de luz: + 100Watts CENTRAL. !! . La idea es tener un pico de luz asimilando la naturaleza pero sin dejar de lado los soportes laterales, el led central trabaja dos horas después y se apaga dos horas antes del ciclo lumínico diario 🤜🤛 PREPARÁNDOSE PARA LA EXPLOSIÓN DE LUZ QUE VIENE!

So far so good 🤘 Blumat watering system works great. No feeding other than water. Might do a little compost tea later. Le système d’arrosage automatique Blumat fonctionne nickel, pas de nutriments autre que de l’eau. On fera ptet un ptit thé de compost plus tard.

Gracias al equipo de Fast Buds 420 por la donación de las semillas y poder inscribirme en el concurso del año. Creada a partir de la genética de la Girl Scout Cookies y la Gorilla Glue #4, seleccionadas a mano y en combinación con nuestra famosa Gorilla Cookies Auto, esta variedad lleva todos los mejores atributos de sus padres al más alto nivel. Este híbrido maravillosamente equilibrado prospera en el interior y en el exterior, y en todo tipo de climas, a la vez que es superresistente a los bichos y las plagas. Es una productora masiva que ofrece a los cultivadores de todos los niveles rendimientos de hasta 650 g/m² de cogollos de primera calidad que no decepcionan en absoluto. Siendo una de las versiones más potentes de esta genética, la Gorilla Cookies FF (Fastflowering) presume de un enorme porcentaje de 29 % de THC que se traduce en montones de resina y terps sabrosos que hacen las mejores extracciones. Es la elección perfecta para los cultivadores de hachís que buscan cepas de gran potencia que produzcan sabores y aromas excepcionales. Consigue aquí tus semillas 😁🌻🚀: https://2fast4buds.com/es/seeds/gorilla-cookies-fast-flowering 📆 Semana 7 de floración: La planta mas grande y con mas resina de todas las que tengo, esta aceptando muy bien los nutrientes. Los cogollos comienzan a formarse y continúa cargandose de resina.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia