Room is still yellowing quite a bit prematurely. I’m going to feed once more and adjust ph back to 6-7. I’m starting to cut my RO water with filtered tap water at 1:5 ratio, to stabilize the ph a little more and to see if the tap water can help with deficiencies I’ve been seeing. I have heard that it’s not good to add calmag in mid flower and I really don’t want to mess with heavy metals that could affect the way the plant smokes. The powdery mildew has come back. It is only affecting the cheese, slurricane and black garlic #2. All three of these plants are in the same corner so it must be something I’m doing environmentally. That’s the coldest part of the tent so maybe the added fans are letting it get too cold. The small fan I added is probably unnecessary and I might move it to my veg tent. If the powdery mildew keeps getting worse, I’m just going to let it ride out and then wash the final product. I should have trained and topped these in veg a lot better but I got lazy and didn’t want to.

Hey guys welcome back in week 13!! Almost there, this week i'll start building off nutrients so i can give them a proper flush next week. Buds are still getting fatter each day and starting to smell real strong, i do have a bit of nute burn due to a massive PK boost (PK 50-31) but i managed to find the right amount i needed to give them, this week i'll give them a milder PK booster. So im keeping a close eye on the ladys and her crystals to get a nice 80% milky and 20% amber trichomes mix. The NL X Haze clones are good to go so they need a little bit of patience, and when the time is right il put the left one of the picture in to flower, and the other one will me cut down for clones and prepare them for the outdoor season. The other clonse i got is an "Ebola Virus" strain... the name isnt that beautiful but i've seen the mother where she was cutted from is an absolute beauty, not sure but i think i'll prepare 2 also for the outdoor season and save 1 as a mom, but like i said not sure yet. Well thats it for now guys, see ya'll in week 14 (the last week if every thing goes as planed!) PS: Sorry for the un-sharp pic's the lens on my phone isnt that good

Se realiza transplante a maceta definitiva de 20 LT AIRPOT Sigue el riego día por medio

First week of flowering

Week 6 Day 42 of flower Day 98 of life Lemon tree buds are dense and heavy. Stems can barely hold the buds. It’s smelling really good. Lemon and citrusy. Super frosty too. Still on week 6 but she is looking close to the end so I decided to cut off fertilizers and feed only water. I had a look on the trichomes but they are still not ready. I will keep watching the next 2 week so I will probably harvest her. Let’s go

Ginger Nut Cookies & Aussie Music Videos 13th Feb 2020 The LST seems to have been a success as the plant remains healthy and seems to be growing the way I would like it to. I'm only going to give her one more week of extra light hours with the LED, and then she can stay outside, where she can transistion into Flowering Naturally. The plant seems to have a lot of it's mothers (Fastbuds GSC) looks to it, and the stem smell when rubbed is fairly similiar too. I am still hoping for some of the Red Diesel fathers Characteristics to come thru before this girls Finished. Now for the Weekly Aussie Music Videos. Last week was a double with Yothu Yindi and Midnight Oil This week I'ts the ladies turn with a group called the Divinyls led by the charismatic Late Chrissy Amphlett who sadly passed away in 2013 from Multiple sclerosis. I cant choose between their hits "Pleasure and Pain" or " I Touch myself" so like before I'll put up the links to both Music videos Here is the Pleasure and pain link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5boYiMktOvs And I touch myself https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wv-34w8kGPM I hope you enjoy this weeks diary update and Aussie music Videos Thankyou for reading this and I'll see you next Week. 👍

After a while, felt like I had to cut her. From 20/01/26 to 24/04/26 She had been only working with water for the past week, and yet refused to even show a slight green (I mean, a little bit on the bottom) She got fried with some UVA (Spiderfarmer UV30) which gave her a more dark look on the top part. Meanwhile the center, without light and UV has some purple, pink shade that looks incredible. I didn't properly weigh her : But my hand hurt after holding her a while, I was fkn high just from her smell. edited this for the roots, they look absolutely INSANE.

Lovely grow from start to finish. Hit is harder than the 10% THC suggests. The high is extremely mellow and the taste is sweet like mangoes. Looking forward to the hash from the trim. May even run this one again along with the higher THC non-CBD Blue Dream next run. Love it.

. 🌱 : 💧 : 4l day 88, removed 1l runoff on day 90, 4l day 91, 3l day 93, 3l day 95 💡 : Dli: 40 mol/m²/d 🤔 :

The plants continue to grow although slowly. I turned the Gavita back on this week and even at 42 inches it seems to be too much light at full power because although they're getting adequate nutrients, the leaves appear to be showing signs of damage to the chlorophyll pigments. I'd like to splurge and get the adapter and controller so that I can dim the light and slowly increase the intensity to allow for a more gradual photo acclimation period, but I will probably hold off until my next run. I've also considered adding supplemental Co2 to help the plants more effectively tolerate and take advantage of the light intensity, but it seems like a big expense for an uncertain benefit considering all of the other variables that are sub-optimal. Perhaps I'll give those Excellofizz Co2 pucks a try. Someday I'll build sealed grow room with automated Hvac, feeding, and Co2 enrichment but for now I'll soldier on and hope for the best as the flip to 12-12 approaches. More to come next week!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Wow all her pistils have changed colour! Trichomes all milky! She's absolutely smashed flowering quick! She is as frosty and smelly as can be!! Will be harvested within 24h.

Very easy to grow, excelent yield (could be better but because of the grower poor experience hehe). Makes you euphoric and very very relaxed. Is excelent for day and night use after a hard work timeoff.

Einfach schön zuszusehen, wie die Sex Bud an Masse zulegt. Die Farben überaschen jedes Mal wenn man das Zelt öffnet. Der Geruch wird langsam merklich stärker. Wir haben die ersten braunen Trichome entdeckt. D.h. wir gehen in den Endspurt. 👽

Well, another week has passed and they are growing very well, now it's a matter of two to three weeks for me to change them to flora, this week I did a little defoliation on the plants and watered them again with top crop top veg fertilizer and I also did some bindings known as low stress training. =D

I dumped the water and added new today with nutrients. Two plants are looking really healthy. I'll focus on these now and let the others slowly grow on the side. The one I transplanted late is dead. Will update more as it develops. UPDATE: Largest plant is drooping a lot. I'm assuming the auto-waterer over-watered again. Avoid this flower pot. I emptied the water and am letting it dry out a bit before watering again. UPDATE: The auto-waterer soaked the large plant. I've poked holes in the medium and lowered the light to just above the plants to hopefully help dry it out quickly. Also have a fan on it. UPDATE: The plant dried out enough that it's looking healthy again. Yay!

Nov 1/Day 46 at 1am: Watered with 3L at a PH of 6.52. Increased watering to flush. Defoliated heavily, removing about 25 leaves and a few smaller stalk Nov 4/Day 49: Top dressed with 16 tbsp of Gaia Green 2-8-4 and 5 tbsp of 4-4-4. Watered with 4 Liters at a PH of 6.61

Chugging closer to the end. Looks like she added one more inch this past week. Impressive. It’s going to be a hot week- so I’m going to have to be extra careful with the humidity.

Vamos familia, actualizamos la septima semana de floración de estas Runtz de MSNL. La temperatura que estuvo entre los 24-26 grados y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos. En cuanto a las plantas las veo verde sano, estiraron bien y ensancharon bastante también. En este indoor hay que decir que no tengo ninguna plaga. Se nota que los nutrientes de la marca Agrobeta, añadí Thor y Mega Pk, hacen sus funciones. Las flores empezaron a engordar y a llenarse de tricomas, por el momento todo correcto, os dejé también alguna novedad y un cambio en la sala, agradecer al equipo de Mars hydro por el nuevo TSW2000. (los últimos 5 años cultive solo con los leds de esta marca). - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Key transition week into flowering. This week started with a serious issue: a strong drought, which left several pots completely dry and one plant especially affected. On Sunday I managed to revive them using only water, rehydrating the substrate properly without stressing the roots. On Monday I applied a full feeding to restore nutritional stability, and on Wednesday another 20 L irrigation, since the plants are consuming a lot at this stage. Today, on the official switch to 12/12, I carried out a deep irrigation of 23 L total, with EC and pH fully adjusted, leaving the substrate well saturated to support the beginning of the stretch. The plants have responded very well to the entire watering sequence, showing a much more uniform canopy and strong growth after the LST work. It’s clear that their demand for water and nutrients increases every day, so we’ll continue raising the irrigation volume progressively over the next weeks to keep them in an optimal rhythm. Now the most decisive phase of the cycle begins. Thanks for following the grow, excited to see how everything develops next week.