I chopped it down today, which is day 74 from sprout. The trichomes were looking partly amber/purple and all cloudy. The smell is pretty overwhelming of berries and cream. It's a unique smell and I can't say I've smelled another cannabis plant similar to this. This was technically my first full completion in my all new setup, so I expected it wouldn't be perfect. The pictures speak for the genetics itself, but there were some funky things this plants did, and I have a 2nd blackberry plant from the same batch of seeds that's doing the same oddities, so not sure I'm 100% sold on autoflowers. At the end of the day, I'm happy with my choice and happy I didn't kill the plant! LOL I don't think it's going to be more than an ounce or 2, but I'll report back when it's dried and weighed. 😀

Increased the amount of nutrients in the feed this week and got a little bit of burn on V, Nemo handled it no problem! removed the yellow spotted fan leafs as part of general defoliation for this point in flower. Continuing to pluck and tuck, meaning removing extra fan leafs (plucking) and bending tallest colas back under the scrog (tuck). shooting to keep all budsights 18 to 22 inches from the light to prevent burn and allow healthy development. I can see where proper distance has been kept best development has occured.

14.1.25: I've been readjusting the LST. I just took all the pegs out and reshaped her. I got some new LST equipment in the mail today, have been glad to have more pegs. I got some clips too, but they don't seem to stay on 😕 I'm currently only using the pegs, I have some thicker soft wire, but I forgot I don't have pliers to cut it! Also I'm running very low on Biobizz nutrients, so that could be bad 🤞 18.1.25: I have done another large defoliation on PPP1 and PPP2. Also, moderate defoliation on all other plants today. All LST ties and pegs are readjusted. I have turned up the light to 90%. Same distance of between 24-28 inches, depending on height of specific plant. I have increased the dosage of Biobizz Bio-Grow and Fish Mix to give an extra boost of Nitrogen as several plants were showing yellowing. They have responded very well to this. Unfortunately I ran out of my Biobizz nutrients and PH UP. I'm currently using Bicarbonate of Soda to increase the PH after the nutes PH comes out to about 4.1. Obviously, that uses a lot and I only had a 250ml bottle, which I used last run too. This run I have 9 plants. The only thing I'm worried about is the salt build up. Have you used it before? Or any other natural way to increase PH? Please let me know! I've also added Biobizz Fish Mix to help with the extra Nitrogen needed. Watering with 1ltr of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 with the following nutrients;- ♡ 4ml Biobizz Fish Mix ♡ 4ml Biobizz Bio-Grow ♡ 2ml Biobizz Bloom ♡ 2ml Biobizz Top Max ♡ 2ml Cal-Mag ♡ 2ml Ecothrive Flourish. I water with this every 3 days. I did order some more Biobizz Bio-Grow and Bio Bloom. I found some at a reasonable price on Amazon. I still have about 800 ml of Biobizz Fish Mix left, too. It is fairly expensive this time as the plants are hungrier this run. I also got a new bag of Canna coco, which I may use to add a top dress with some dry amendments. Which hopefully will save some cash on the bottled nutrients and stretch out until the end of this run without having to buy anymore. I have purchased a funnel to pour the water. It is difficult, due to the shape of my LST, to water precisely. I have spilt it all over the tent several times 🙄 I've also ordered a 2 litre jug. Currently, I'm mixing water for 9 plants individually in a 1 litre jug. It's tideous. Hopefully, this will solve the issues. Cleaning the tent after watering every time isn't my idea of efficiency 😅 Thanks for checking out my diary 🍃 ✌️

Day 84 - Truckin steady! 2.5 gallons dosage of the above nutes every 4 days! This weeks food has the addition of dry koolbloom (3.1 grams / 2.5 gallons). Just plucking the occasional leaf that looks at me funny, and watering when dry! (every 4 days)

Nice increase in height this week with many beautiful new growth nodes. If i was going to Top, I'd do it here soon, but this gals gonna be mostly au natural. Still getting just the cfl bulbs for now while she's small so I can watch her closely. Already some amazing big fan leaves on her. Humboldt Seed Organization has this Blue Dream CBD labeled at a 1:1 ratio. Which can hopefully bring in a thc and cbd percentage of 10. I'll be on the lookout for smells of berries, pepper and citrus. Happy growing everyone. ✌️

Getting them ready to flip

Hey now, so I am happy I finally decided to run a separate tent for seedlings. It was damn near impossible running 2 humidifiers 24x7 to keep everyone happy. I got 1 large humidifier running 24x7 in my new 2x2x3 and even with my spider farmer sf1000, and exhaust running nonstop, I am maintaining 80% rh and she is loving it as is the gorilla girl auto. She is still growing in pro mix seedling organic blend and plain water every 2-3 days. My plan is to transplant her on day 18 to an airpot full of coco coir, then top her on day 21. If all goes well I will top her twice again on day 28ish, and then just lst for about 3-5 days. I think I trained the acid dough auto for far too long, and I will adjust with this one. Planning to just lst the top 4 colas for 3-5 days to keep them from becoming dominant and then just light defoliation throughout the grow if necessary. I also just received a new grow light in the mail from Mars Hydro which I will be testing out for them on this grow once she is ready for flowering. Thanks for stopping by, I hope all your grows are 💪 strong and fast, be safe and blaze on!

Week 12 - Venom OG and an unknown seed strain. Tap water and Espoma Bloom full dose - 18hr light schedule At this point I learned that I need to really make more use of my area for my plants by fiming, LST, SoG, etc.... I plan to try to monster crop the Venom OG and try to get some different results. It's not an auto-flower plant so I'll have some time to veg it to the way I want to see it before it gets too big.

Trichomes everywhere 👍💚😉

Still a few weeks for this girl. There are the first signs of orange hairs on her buds. I've cleared excess leaves below the canopy and any buds that are to small to be worth her or my effort, I'd rather she plumped and fattened up what buds she already has. I've also chopped away and widen her spread total any blocking of "worth the effort" buds. Supercropping has paid off, giving more room and of course, no effect to the girl whatsoever.

She's done! Whew! I can say that this wasn't my easiest grow. She had some issues in the beginning, due to over fertilizing (see diary) but she managed to produce some beautiful crystallized nuggets. I flushed her for a week but she looked so ready, and she's so loud, I had to chop her down. Stay tuned for the smoke report.

Starting my second run with a frost banger auto from fastbuds420

Time for drying. Btw drying them like this was a bad idea buds are pressed from one side may be conceded to move them, well I still prefer hanging drying 🤪

Well pretty good week I would say, the only issue is we dint really see the total amount of our stuff but it was still great.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

the weather in my part of germany is really bad for this summer at the moment. it's raining too much. i've put them in a dry place to prevent mould from forming. maybe they're not getting as much fertiliser. they'll get one more week and then they'll be harvested.

Buds are not as dense as the first purple punch but the mass is more. Will keep this updated up to drying. Edit #1 June 15 : buds have been washed in baking soda/lime juice warm water (32*C) > rtp water (27*C) > cold water (22*C). Buds then will be hung to dry for 24 hours in AC (45% humid). At day 2 (or in another 24 hours) will move the buds into another room for 24 hours again @65-75% humidity. Day 3 (or in another and probably the last 24 hours of drying) will move back into ac and then a stem test on each branch will be conducted to see if they are dry enough. If they are not dry enough after day 3 (2 days ac @ 45% and 1 day rtp @65-75%) then a 4th day of ac drying will occur and then more branch tests. Upon being sufficiently dry, the final trim of the sugar leaves will occur and then jarring with some Boveda 58%. Thanks for reading, more edits to come. Edit : 18/June/‘21 Seeds looking real nice, I have given some away for people to rest and tell me if I did my procedure correct (feminizing seeds with female pollen due to a female plant being stress). If this procedure is correct I’ll be fertilizing my current grow too. 1) Purple Paralysis (Jellyfish Bud) (F) 2) Monster Mass (F) 3) Lavender (bag seed gender unknown) Edit 2 25th June : buds dried at 36-45% humidity for 4 days before jarring.