Hi all 😁 Hope everyone keeping well and having a wonderful week! Thank you all for such amazing support on this bananas journey 💚💚💚 Will be updating this week journal daily so please remember to revisit to see full week content. So far this grow it's going great. Girls are stretching by hour. Great health, nice green colours, more and more squares taken on the netting, flowering nicely progressing, I'm very happy 😁 Planning to apply more selective defoliation, especially to Xena. No changes to nutes except few extra drops of calmag just in case and will try to fill the net entirely. Week 7 Nov 27- Dec 3 Nov 27 Selective defoliation applied on Xena. 8-10 mainly small fan leaves. She is still a bit shy to open as much as her sister. No rush my girl. You still doing great! Nov 28 First watering for this week. 7ltr beetwen them both with 4h spread. Runoffs. Xena 300ml PH 6.1 Athena 250ml PH 6.4 😁. So far the largest amount of my magic mixture consumed by my 🍌💜👊 girls. Well done👏 Nov 29-30 Leaves tucking and joyful observation🤓 Dec 1 Selective defoliation and first stage of lolipopping on both girls. Decided to go a bit heavier as tomorrow heading for trip and wont see my girls until Tuesday! They will be all alone without any supervision so hopefully they will behave and I will be nicely surprised of their development on my return. Watered with 2tr mixture and sprayed with water and fish mix solution right after defoliation. Planning to feed them tomorrow as much possible 6-7ltr before heading off to our voyage to Amsterdam 😎 do anyone know ls if any of coffeeshops have Fastbuds strains available? Would love to try 🍌💜👊🤤😋 Dec 2 Girls watered as above and both PH 6.4 on runoffs. Dec 3 Girls are unsupervised until December 5th. Thank you all for such amazing support on this journey 😊 love you all!!, 💚💚💚 Stay tuned for upcoming week update right after my return. Peace and love brothers and sisters ✌️💚

LST proved effective. Looks almost ready to switch to flowering.

🌱 Day 8 — Veg Nutrient strength kept light (≈180 ppm) for root development. Water level just below net pots; bubbles lightly mist the bottoms. Reservoir and pH stable throughout the week. No visible roots yet. Will transfer the 4 best plants into the alien aero system when: Roots are long, white, and branching — at least 4–6 inches hanging freely into the SuperPonics reservoir. Root tips are firm and bright (not soft or brown). The plants have at least 3–4 sets of true leaves and are starting to accelerate growth. 🌱 Day 10 — Veg Roots have finally reached the water. Will look to transplant in the next 5 days or so.

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This week i defoliated on day 18 because i have way too many top coming out and too many lowbuds that were getting no light from being covered by layers and layers of leaves. All strains but the og Martian have real tight internodal spacing.

22.09.2025 DAY 27/DAY 8VEG RH DAY 60-63% RH NIGHT 60-63% Room temperature day 26-27C Room temperature night 23-25C EC 490 pH 5.9 Water temperature 18.5-19.5 PPFD 420 Light cicle 20/4 VPD 1.2-1.3 I'm increasing the EC to 0.48 by the Athena feeding program. A little bit of defoliation in order for the side branches to reach better light. I usually don't go in to a heavy deforestation I just occasionally remove some of the big fan leaves in order to have better light penetration. So far the roots are going great not even a slight sign of bacteria or problems in the root zone. We have nice white roots and so far is all going great. Ill probably move them in a separate buckets in week 4. I'm not sure that I'll even have 4 weeks of vegetation becose some of them are starting to show the gender signs, so probably it will be like 3 weeks veg at maximum. DAY 28/DAY 9VEG RH DAY 60-63% RH NIGHT 60-63% Room temperature day 26-27C Room temperature night 23-25C EC 520 pH 5.8 Water temperature 18.5-19.5 PPFD 420 Light cicle 20/4 VPD 1.2-1.3 I sense a little bit of deficiency maybe is Mn or Fe not sure but I added a little bit of CaMg and a bit more Grow A+B in order to fight it. I have heard that Athena usually are thirsty for CaMg so basically you have to add more. Plus I lower the pH to 5.8 and now the game is ON. I'll see in a couple of days but if I'm not satisfied probably I'll raise the EC to 600 with a little bit of higher CaMg for base. DAY 29/ DAY 10VEG RH DAY 60-63% RH NIGHT 60-63% Room temperature day 26-27C Room temperature night 23-25C EC 485 pH 6.1 Water temperature 18.5-19.5 PPFD 420 Light cicle 20/4 VPD 1.2-1.3 I realized they this problem with the leaf burn is from the Foliar feeding. NEVER PH YPUT FOLIAR FEEDING AND NEVER LEFT THE FAN WORKING🤣🤣🤣 Anyway it's all good now besides the few burned leafs. This strain is branching a lot, so basically I don't plan to use LST. I don't even think that is possible to use LST effectively becose my plants are hard and woody and only possible way for me to deal with them is through scrogging. DAY 30/ DAY 11VEG RH DAY 60-63% RH NIGHT 60-63% Room temperature day 26-27C Room temperature night 23-25C EC 450 pH 6.1 Water temperature 18.5-19.5 PPFD 550 Light cicle 20/4 VPD 1.3-1.4 So far I decided to use the full spectrum. The idea of the first few weeks under cold White was to preserve them a little bit and keep them short but since today we have full spectrum plus far red. Lets see what is going to happen tomorrow. I'm a little bit afraid of the temperature swing becose this will Spike higher temperature, but whatever I'll deap with it. DAY 31/DAY 12 VEG RH DAY 60-63% RH NIGHT 60-63% Room temperature day 26-27C Room temperature night 23-25C EC 380 pH 5.8 Water temperature 18.5-19.5 PPFD 550 Light cicle 20/4 VPD 1.3-1.4 Brutal development only for one night. I know it's hard to be seen on a picture but on live it looks amazing. The little ladies have during pretty much 2 liters of water and so far the AC is going down straight forward so they eat a lot. I had to put a little bit more of fertilizer just to keep them well fed. The Voyager is crushing it and it's only 40% on Chanel 1 and Chanel 2. In fact im not going to experiment with cold light anymore full spectrum is the deal. So far I'm not touching the EC I'm waiting for the week to pass and to jump on even higher. DAY 32/DAY 13 VEG RH DAY 60-63% RH NIGHT 60-63% Room temperature day 24-25C Room temperature night 21-24C EC 500 pH 5.8 Water temperature 18.5-19.5 PPFD 550 Light cicle 24/0 VPD 1.0-1.2 I couldn't wait more time for the new week to come and to increase the AC. My current AC for today was 300 and I have started to see manganese deficiency so I had to add nutrients. Tomorrow is the last day of the week after that I'll rise the EC to 670. Somehow and in my opinion Athena needs a little bit more EC Dan the recommend dose in the manual. So far that's the first fertilizer I see that needs more dan the recommendation on the label 🤣🤣🤣 Interesting fact is that now I can clearly see the reproductive organs of the plant. It's female but it's still in week two VEG. I'm curious em I going to see more dan 3 weeks VEG before we go in to Flowering ☠️😜 DAY 33/DAY 14VEG RH DAY 65-67% RH NIGHT 65-67% Room temperature day 24-25C Room temperature night 21-24C EC 350 pH 6.1 Water temperature 18.5-19.5 PPFD 350 Light cicle 24/0 VPD 1.0-1.1 Finally I solve the problem with the leaves. It turned out that my clip fan was blowing the humidifier mist toward my flowers. I notisec that only two of the plants have this types of burbs and those are the once right next to the fan. I have changed the fan position and the dehumidifier positions and now I hope all will be fine. I have defoliated a little bit of big fan leaves and I hope in the end of the next week I'll have time to move the RDWC buckets becose I'm a little bit busy does days. I have lower the PPFD becose it seems that this is a bit to much for the flowers.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

This plant seems to have grown much denser and better than my first plant. I just got the ac infinity ventilation setup with controller 69 for my 2x2, still trying to learn, hopefully grow #3 goes even better. Stay tuned

Happy to hav seed harvest stoned @chedderbob112

🍼Greenhouse Feeding BioGrow & Bio Enhancer ⛺️MARSHYDRO The ⛺️ has a small door 🚪 on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ MARSHYDRO FC 3000 LED 300W ☀️Also special thanks to VIPERSPECTRA P2000 (200W) & XS2000(240w) LED growlights 🌱 FASTBUDS 420

Hello and welcome to u all.. Hope ur well and had a great day.. 😁👍 Great 2nd wk of growth.. Roots are starting to fill out tray and vegative growth is going strong it seems.. Still a bit warm but temps av dropped loads last few days in my area thankfully.. Took alot of central n lower grow sites away this wk n just trying to open her up a bit b4 she stretches.. Flipped lights to true 12/12 today and will b planning a 70day flowering program (already 14days thru!).. Emptied out res and flushed top tray with 10ltr plain ph'd water @5.8 and 21°c so not to shock her roots.. Looking forward 2 my first crop from Humboldt's stock.. 🤞😎 Huge thanks to you all for your constant support, comments, follows and likes.. Stay safe n best of luck in ur gardening adventures.. 👍🍀

Hello Diary. The third week of flowering and a total of six weeks is behind us. 💪 Hulkberries grow nicely, the flowers get bigger and bigger, full of trichomes. Hulkberry # 1 is more branched than the others and it seems to me that it also has more flowers so it will definitely give a higher yield. 😋 Even though I did a little defoliation last week there is still a big jungle on my little farm. Their roommate Green Gelato is in the middle between them and seems small compared to the Hulkberries, which definitely dominate in size. The Hulkberry # 2 has reached a height of 115cm and it is just above the maximum that my farm can allow given the height. It doesn’t look like it’s going to grow any more which is a big relief. That's why I had to adjust the light to them so that the Gelato is further away from the light than it should be. But unfortunately I can’t do otherwise, I hope it doesn’t affect him too much. What is a little worrying is the humidity in the air which is higher than I would like, I put two circular fans and a large exhaust fan I put on maximum, but the humidity doesn’t drop. The temperature is also high in the box, hovering around 28 degrees but sometimes rising to 29 degrees or even more, but the plants are genetically predisposed to a warmer climate so hopefully by the end everything will be fine. Although I have already mentioned this, my farm is in a small room in the apartment, and the weather conditions outside also affect the conditions in that small room. Given this hot summer and heavy rains, it’s no wonder the climate in the box. Let’s take a look at what this week looked like. 24/07/2020 - Day 36. Watering. This time I only added CalMag from GHE, I didn’t add BioBizz harn. I still regulated the water at p.H 6.5 with Plagron’s, Lemon Kick. Each time I prepare 7 lit. water and with that I water all three plants evenly. 28/07/2020 - Day 40. Watering. In 7 lit. water I added BioBizz and adjusted p.H to 6.5. As for BioBizz, I’ve added the full palette scheduled for Week 6. 30/07/2020 - Day 42. Photography and Watering. Given the height, it’s hard for me now to take the plants out of the box to take satisfying photos, so I didn’t paint them on a black background this week. After the photo shoot, I watered the plants with the addition of BioBizz. Hulkberry Auto # 1 - Day 35. - 99cm Hulkberry Auto # 2 - Day 35. - 115cm That's all for this week. See you soon.

some apicals of Strawberry Lemonade became albinos maybe for too much light, they're however covered wit trichomes. I think thr Tropicana banana is a little bit late with the flowering compared to strawberry, I think about 2 weeks. Let's keep pushing!!👽

Hey guys! Thanks for stopping in to check out my babies! This is week 2 of flower (days 8-14). This week things really seemed to take off! 🔥 Plants were happy all week long and seemed to grow almost an 1” per day if not more. Buds are developing nicely, no smell yet but nice to see them stackin’. I cut out anything under the trellis that would end up being popcorn buds so the plants could focus on the main colas. Hoping I’ll just have to pull a few leaves here and there from now on. The New Floraflex drip system has been nice! 💯 It has made watering easier and more automated. Water distribution isn’t perfect but I’m sure they aren’t 100% level either. Plants should stop stretching after this next week and should start putting on some size! Stoked to see what these girls can do in week 3! Day by day break down: Day 8 Cut out some lower growth/ leaves blocking bud sites Day 9 Fed all 6 plants. PH: 6.11, PPM: 1136 Day 10 Plants look great. Let them do their thing. Day 12 Fed al 6 plants. PH: 6.05, PPM: 1264 Day 14 sitting at 29” tall right now. Not so stressed on height being be issue. Thinking they might be around 35-40” tall at the max. Stay tuned for next weeks post to see how much these ladies have thickened up!

😈 Only On It'z 3 Day Of It'z 12 Week Binge! I Can Alwayz See Her Name Disintegrating From Their Lipz! "3rd Day" 😈-[V][V]-😈 Day 4 And Already Show'n Root! Using Clonex Water Solution In RO Water Ph'd Down To 6.5 And 2 T8 6500k Fluorescent 2' Tubez! 🌱 Day 5! She'z Reach'n For The Sky With Her Root Get'n Longer! After Her 2nd Node And Fan Leaf Im'a Put Her On The Juice! (Emerald Harvest'z) Cali Pro Gro A-B, Emerald Goddess, Root Wizzard And Study Stalk Into RO Water Ph'd To 6.8! After Her 6th Node And Fan Leaf! Move'n Her Into Her Lucious Condo! To Start Her Low Strezz Workout'z, Manicure'n And Scrog'n! Im'a Start Add'n (Emerald Harvest'z) Honey Chome And King Kola To Her Mix! Until She Hit'z Puberty! Once She Get'z A Little Fuzz On Her Peach! I'll Switch Out The Cali Pro Gro A-B With Cali Pro Gro Bloom A-B And (Emerald Harvest'z) Cal-Mag Keep'n Her Drink At A Chilly 59° And Her Air At 68° All While Get'n Her Hook'd Like A Crackhead On Co2! After That, 1-2 Weekz B4 She'z Ready To Pop! Im'a Starve Her Little Azz Cauze It'z Flush Time! (Botanicare'z) Clearex And RO Water Only! Don't Want Terrible Tasting Headaches! 🌱 After The 1'st Week I'll Only Be Updating Once A Week Unless Something Spectacular Happenz With The PC Grow. I Got To Much To Do With The New Big Auto Grow! Man I Love Fastbudz! Thiz Run Will Be FB'z GG Auto Fem And FB'z Six Shooter Auto Fem Som It Shoulb Be Exiciting! But Back To The Micro PC Grow! I Just Posted This Morning Day 5 And Damn! Big Difference From Thiz Morning! It'z The End Of Day 5 And The Rootz Are Fill'n The Grodan Like It'z Last'z Year'z Shoe! It'z Get'n Straight Shwifty! 😈🌱Day 6! Hey! Your A Crazy Bitch! But You Fuck So Good I'm On Top Of It! When I Dream I'm Doing You All Night! Scratcez All Down My Back I Keep It Right On! Crazy Bitch, Crazy Bitch, Crazy Bitch! "Crazy Bitch" Buckcherry🌱😈