En la segunda semana de vegetación fertilizamos con un estimulante de crecimiento, aplicando 1.5ml / litro con p.h regulado en 5.8.

Getting fat and very sticky!! 💐💐😁

Lots of popcorn buds because I really did not understand defoliation or lollipopping and was too scared to try. I have since become a much better judge of what leaves to pull and when. This diary was just to create a record of every grow I have done so far. Thanks!

Monday, March 1st. We are entering Week 2 of Flower, The Purple Queen stretches alittle. But still showing the bushy Shape. She grows nice roundisch fat leaves. And soon some Flowers The Girsl only get water with Benefical stuff, because their Soil is amneded with EASY BOOST ORGANIC NUTIRTION I was watching them careful, because of moving into another Envoirement, more Space and a lot of Light But it seems they are happy

Dark spots, bugs and problems in general

Stretch is done and flowers are piling on now! I treated with lost coast as a preventative. I kept the feed the same but it will be altered end of grow week. Canopy is getting hella full can't wait to watch these colas stack on. Until next update. Happy growing and stay lit fam.

Woche 6 - Übergang zur Blütephase und erste Herausforderungen Die sechste Woche markierte den Übergang von der Vegetations- in die Blütephase. Bis zum Wochenende wurde weiterhin der Terra Vega Dünger verwendet, mit einem Verhältnis von 30 ml pro 10 Liter Wasser. Am Samstag, dem ersten Tag der Blütephase, wurde jedoch deutlich, dass ein Wechsel auf den Blütedünger nötig war. Leider führte die verspätete Umstellung auf die Canna Terra Bloom Linie zu einem leichten Nährstoffmangel, der sich in den ersten Tagen der Blüte zeigte. Anfang der ersten vollen Blütewoche wurde dies korrigiert, indem vollständig auf Canna Bloom umgestellt wurde. Die pH- und EC-Werte blieben stabil und optimal eingestellt. Die Temperaturen stiegen minimal an, blieben jedoch bei angenehmen 26 Grad. Mit Beginn der Blütephase startete der sogenannte Stretch, und die Pflanzen legten beeindruckende 2,5 cm pro Tag zu. Während dieser Woche wurden die ersten unteren Blätter entfernt – ein leichtes Lollipopping, um die Energie auf die oberen Bereiche zu konzentrieren. Die entfernten Blätter wurden getrocknet und sogar laminiert, um den Fortschritt dieses besonderen Grows festzuhalten. Es wurden ebenfalls einige kleinere Zweige und Blätter im unteren Bereich entfernt, um die Belüftung zu verbessern. Das eigentliche, umfassendere Lollipopping wird jedoch erst in zwei bis drei Wochen erfolgen. Trotz des anfänglichen Mangels aufgrund der zu späten Umstellung des Düngers blieben die Pflanzen insgesamt kräftig, gesund und wuchsen konstant weiter. Der Übergang in die Blütephase verlief somit erfolgreich, und die Pflanzen zeigten weiterhin ihr beeindruckendes Potenzial. ENGLISH Week 6 - Transition to Flowering and Initial Challenges The sixth week marked the transition from the vegetative to the flowering phase. Until the weekend, the Terra Vega fertilizer was still used at a ratio of 30 ml per 10 liters of water. On Saturday, the first day of flowering, it became clear that switching to the flowering fertilizer was necessary. Unfortunately, the late transition to the Canna Terra Bloom line caused a slight nutrient deficiency that appeared in the first few days of flowering. This was corrected at the beginning of the first full flowering week by fully switching to Canna Bloom. The pH and EC levels remained stable and optimally adjusted. Temperatures increased slightly but stayed at a comfortable 26 degrees. With the start of the flowering phase, the stretch began, with the plants growing an impressive 2.5 cm per day. During this week, the first lower leaves were removed—a light lollipopping to focus the energy on the upper parts. The removed leaves were dried and even laminated to document the progress of this unique grow. Some smaller branches and leaves were also removed from the lower areas to improve ventilation. However, the main lollipopping will take place in about two to three weeks. Despite the initial deficiency due to the late fertilizer switch, the plants remained overall strong, healthy, and continued to grow beautifully. The transition to the flowering phase was successful, and the plants continued to showcase their impressive potential.

Day 25 Second topping 🤒🤕

So let me start off with I'm sorry🙏 I'm 3 days late on my update🤬 been crazy round here with the holidays!! So not much happened the first 10 days but watering with a spray bottle. Probably start feeding at 14 days old. Things are going great as of right now. Will get to the more thorough diaries once feedings begin. We'll till next week thanks for stopping by! Best of luck and Happy Growing!😎🌱💚💪💪

Week 9

I stretched the purple punch a bit further than usual, but love plant Strong stems so train early., Next grow I will actively lollipop a bit more but overall I'm happy.. Very consistent nugs

Ha llegado el momento de reducir al max la potencia de luz de nuestras luminarias... Tanto Led como Sodio. Regamos solo con agua y lo estrictamente necesario para que no se deshidraten nuestras plantas. Algunas variedades están listas, sobre todo las Fast Version, a otras les faltan algunos días. También dentro de las variedades tenemos especímenes más avanzados que otros, es por eso que la cosecha se hará de forma escalonada. Desconectamos el aire acondicionado y ponemos al max la extracción.

So today I started the flush, is the first time I used a product to flush, I have read and basically, the community is split in half about to flush or not to flush, I will see first hand if actually flushing creates a better quality.

Растениям от IZI осталось дней 7. Анубису дней 10-14, CloudWalker'у от двух недель, максимум 3, фенотип сативный + поздний зацвет (почти на неделю позже) Как тут внести новые удобрения? Добавить его в базу. Хоп-хей спамеры, кто зарабатывает хуй знает сколько в час? Общий вид не возможен - сломалась камера, только макро.

Hello, Both ladies doing very well now. Wheater changed for now, and there is much more humidity in the air, as less dry burning sun. Had a quick communication with Dutch Passion about the leafs that tend to fold up. They are never nice flat out. But they assured me there is nothing wrong going on. And the plant looks very healthy!! Working on the lady in the greenhouse-ish shed, i wanted to bend the top of the plant, but its allready very stiff. So i managed to break it. 😅👈🤪👈😒👈 There was luckely allready a support attached. And it didnt break all the way. See pics. Its a FIBI, fuck i broke it. 🙌🤣 So its restoring good and the top hasnt started to faint down. So, all good!!! The lady outside is doing very good now, she starts to bush-up. Shes free to grow so, i only did a few chiroprac on the main stem, she can flourish as she supposed to by nature. Thats about it, for this week. Did some succeeded bends as well, so check out the other diaries 2. Grow safe 🍀🍀🍀

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Another one down one more to go this fast buds journey has been absolutely an amazing one. The genetics are fire and fun to grow I like to have a lot of variety and fast buds as everything you could want so happy to be a part of this thank you Molly and Heather for making this happen for me and giving me a chance to grow some of the most fire genetics in the world🌿💨💯

Small red spots have started only on black cream