Hello everyone, fellow growers! my girlfriend continues the vegetative phase without problems. we are trying to twist the stem around the structure of the vase :) We are testing a new line of fertilizers and so far they are doing pretty well. excellent nuggets are expected!

Day 36 after switch. planned to finish between 60 - 70 days. looks good! frosty leaves already, lot of flower development and still growing. This week watering with PK 5-8. I think I will defoliate once again at the end of this week!?

All good flowering nicely , I needed to remove a lot of fan leaves from the top of the Gelato Sorbet they were yellowish and some kind of deficiency is there.

We are cruising now, 8 week and a day done of flower. The Blue Sherbalato and Wedding Cake are finished both have done poorly compared to the others. I said in my first posts neither plant was vigorous compared to the others. Maltezerz should make a fair yield and is also pretty much finished .Considering it did not have best speck and did not stretch as much so ended up being overshadowed a bit by everything else, it's done ok. Orangesicle has smashed the room, I can't wait for a proper taste off all of them. Of course I have quick dried samples from all, except GTH2,3,4.. I am not holding on to cuttings if they are not good. WC and the BS cuttings were launched weeks ago, They had no vigour, took almost a month to root so the plants just were not up to it. Yet the other weak seedling GTH2 has took off as a cutting and has needed more control than the rest. All the tests were pretty potent, not a lot between them, nothing disappointing ( I have been disappointed many times in the past with potency levels being no where near the claimed effects in the catalogues.) There was nothing unpleasant in the quick dried taste test, and a lot to look forward to. The outdoor plant has started flowering at around 45 days from germ, though it sprouted in an old chemdogging pot, I think it is from a GG auto mother, it has her structure with large calyx and heavy buttressed lower branches. I have gave her a light touch of pollen from the reg photo scotts OG male. So there will be a few seed in her, none would be Auto in the first generation, will I get the time/space to play with them?

Came back from holidays and surprisingly the plants were looking great after 2 weeks without watering them, the gelified water did it's work. Flowers have gotten bigger and smellier.

Germination date 🌰 26/01/2021 Day 42 🌱 13/03/2021 Strain 🍁 🍉Watermelon zkittlez auto Barneys farm 🍉 Nutrients 💉 All mix slow release fertilizer 3lts/90lts of soil (guanokalong) Organic Wormcastings 25% of bag and added small amount slow release organic bloom to soil. Will top, top soil up in 3weeks 5weeks 7weeks as they say they're 70day auto. Will be adding in bat guano and bloom to water 5weeks on Set Up ⛺ amazon special not super cheap 💡 spiderfarmer sf4000 📤📥 AC infinity 6inch Notes 🗒️✏️ Any week another dollar! Ordered the ac infinity carbon kit to replace the cheap ass one I've got. Only a small feed this week, dont wont to over do it. Buddy and a top soil during the week and that will be it. Ones looking really nice, the other ones tiny but looks like it will do well but the other just looks half dead in colour compared to the other 2. Seen this before so guessing it's just a shit pheno but will produce the most buds 🤣 typical autos 🌱🍁 Happy growing everyone ❤️

Clones are coming around they was shocked being up in Maine we had a light out for 3 days got too 40° in the cloner etcetc sooo trying to get them to root just gave them some clonex ✌️

Et voici le reste du jardin (sans la cherry cola qui sèche deja;) Rien à signaler à part les 2 monstre dans la tante qui n arrêtent pas de grandir ;) j ai fais une defoliation aux 2 ainsi qu aux dos i dos (qui produisent pas mal de feuilles à enlever;) Mais autrement elle aussi évolue bien . Demain la 2eme cherry cola va être recolter ainsi que la gorrilla x purple punch , et le reste du jardin ça continuer sont chemin encore une semaine avec nutriment puis on passera au flusch voilà voilà on y arrive tous doucement à cette douce et tendre recolte;) En espérant que se que vous voyez vous plaît ;) Bon dimanche à toute et tous je profite de vous postez quelque photo du jardin presque au complet (vue que j vais couper la cherry cola 2 ..et la gorrilla x purple punch Mention spécial à la dos i dos de barney qui m étonne de jour en jour plus une odeur folle de kusch ,des têtes dur comme la pierre, et pour une plante de 40cm elle va faire une bonne recolte !! (A voir d ici une semaine voir 2 ) et j ai dans les dos i dos comme pour les strawberry x gorrilla 2 pheno différent Un des pheno de strawberry prend 2 voir 3 semaine de plus à finir (j avais se pheno à mon premier journal de strawberry x gg4.. Dommage car l autre pheno est juste magnifique avec des têtes énormes (c celle de droite ) et elle fini bien plus tôt que l autre.. bon c été à peut près tout j voulais juste mettre quelque souvenirs en plus de ces magnifiques ladys 😀

Day 64 - June 5 June 5 - 09.45AM Swelling continues, Pistils are beginning to shake, with some vibrant orange. The end is maybe 10 days away. Senescence continues with minor purple hue starting. June 5 - 09.45AM Once AC is fixed I will push this further. June 5 - 09.45AM Temperature at 79F. June 5 - 03.45PM AC temporarily fixed. Day temps and night temps will be cooler. June 5 - 08.25PM Temps back down to sub-75F. Trichomes are still clear! June 6 - 04.20PM Day Temps under 75F. Trichomes still clear. June 6 - 04.20PM I regret removing 3 3-finger leaves beneath canopy, this was done to promote more airflow below, but with harvest being so near, it was likely unnecessary stress. June 7 - 08.00AM Watered approximately 5.5L. Humidity has spiked as a result, perhaps I should add a dehumidfier straight after watering. Keeping temps closer to 70F to try and kick start senescence. June 8 - 09.30AM Morning temp at 70F, night temp likely 65F (not confirmed) - I suspect the tent will get no hotter than 74F today. Trichomes still clear, with some cloudyness appearing. June 9 - 09.30AM Trichomes are clear, some heads are half clear, half cloudy. June 10 - 09.30AM Removed wilted leaf, still lots of clear trichomes. June 10 - 05.10PM Soil is cold, likely due to the lower temperature. Weight of pot is still a little heavy, I'll water approximately 6L before lights out tonight. (Day 70) June 11 - 08.30AM Watered 5.5L to runoff, towel collecting droplets under roller. Was too tired to water yesterday. Time taken to saturate soil was roughly 1 hour.

Cookies N Cream Clone one from Zombie66 Clone two from ATMBKK

Using the paper towel method, my girl's taproot starting showing after 24 hours. I also buffered my medium with Multi Total and Calmag, before flushing with pH 6 water to a low EC. Once the taproot was 3/4 inch long, I planted her into the coco and watered her with RO water at PH 6.2 for a few days. I also switched my light on (first at 20% power and 30 inches away from seedling, gradually up to 40% at 25 inches). Until the first leaves unfurled, I kept the light on for 24 hours. After the first cotyledons opened I switched my light to 18/6 at 60% power and have given her the first dose of nutes at EC 400. Think we can say germination was a success so on with week one! 🌱 💡

Sherbet queen auto

Habe Wärme Matte untergelegt um die Temperatur zwischen 16-24 zu halten. Leichte Sprünge zwischen den Blütenständen denke ist auf den Kältestress zurückzuführen. Habe licht voll aufgedreht, hat den Sprung nur noch mehr gefördert, jetzt wieder 80% und Wärme von unten. Letzte Woche läuft an!

Hey Growmies, hope everyone is keeping well a nose around the garden all looking good for the moment the stardawg is looking deficient as hell because of all the rain recently I'll be mixing some nutrients for her tomorrow but everything else is loving life hope everyone is staying happy healthy and as high as humanly possible 💚🇬🇧💪

Started flush at start of week 9, will flush all the way till the end of week 10. To be honest I’m not sure we’re I land with the grapey Walters, they have some nice big colas but they don’t seem to be dense at all not sure if that’s my fault or if it’s just the genetics, their mildly frosty no were near as frosty as the sour stompers ajecent to them. They do have a lovely smell and I hope that I’m wrong and I might end up being a fan of them depending on the high/taste, only time will tell. ✌️🏻

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.