You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Welcome to Flower Week 7 and harvest of Sensi Seeds Purple Berry Muffinz I'm excited to share my grow journey with you from my Sensi Seeds Project . It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this Project , I’ve chosen the Feminized Photo Strain Purple Berry Muffinz: Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Sensi Seeds • 💧Strain Info : 26% • ⏳ Flowering Time: 6-7weeks

Ok this is my Full guide with pictures on how to setup a Deep Water Culture grow, items you will need for this grow - Firstly a TENT or ROOM i use a tent REMEMBER stuff you buy NUTRIENTS off eBay and Amazon could be decanted (watered down) , or cheap chinese fakes (Ph Meters, PPM meters) you should really buy these things from you local hydroponics store,as they are guaranteed , i ve dropped a few into the bucket and they are fked,its been a sunday night with a bank holiday monday and i m fked, 1) Ph Down - makes the ph of water LOWER - this is VERY STRONG SHIT , wear gloves and googles if you are messing with it, i drop a bit into my main reservoir Ph 6.9 ( maybe 10ml per 200L) 2) Ph up - makes the Ph go higher - also STRONG SHIT -only needed in Emergencies 3) Ph meter 4) PPM Meter or EC meter 5) 20L Bucket + moulded lid netpot 6) Air Pump ,air hose 3m ,air stone x2, 7) Pebbles to fill to top of netpot, 8) ROOT IT cubes , i use these and ONLY these, by that brand,i know why,and so im telling you, 9) Seeds - I prefer Fast_Buds ,autos ready in 10 weeks of 18/6 - top quality 10) Nutrients, I use Canna as they are the easiest, they have a way of filling the one side , if you take the top off you can squeeze into the measuring side - I would also recommend Advanced Nutrients,but they are more expensive - so you will need 1L Canna Aqua Vega A+B ( it comes as two parts that you cannot mix together , when you put this into the water you MUST stir it well before putting each one in seperately otherwise you will get salts formed and crystals floating around,10 ml per 10L week 1-2 ,15ml per 10L week 3, 20ml per 10L in week 4) 1L Canna Aqua Flores A+B (as above) 25ml per 10L week 5, 30ml per 10L week 6 ,30 ml per 10L week 7 , 25ml per 10L week 8,15ml per 10L week 9, 0 per 10L week 10 250 ml Canna Rhizotonic (roots love this use this from start 20 ml per 10L and cut down after 4 weeks to 5ml per 10L up until week 9 250 ml Canna Cannazym ( breaks down dead roots, enzyme of some sort) 15ml per 10L from week 3 through to week 9 250 ml CannaBoost - (quite expensive but worth it, DWC will show you why) 15ml per 10L week 3 to 4 , 25ml per 10L week 5-9 250 ml Canna PK 13/14 (bud booster) this is optional because you only add it once,personally i add 15 ml per 10L in week 7 so its stays in for 10 days I leave my water for at least 24 hrs before using it, in a big old olive container i bought , i think its 225 L i might be wrong, but it was cheap , solid and had a top :) I check my water levels ,my PH and PPM daily 11) Jubilee clips x3 - to secure the fan ,filter and outlet.( 5 clips if using air cooled hood ) 12) Fans - i have 2 little fans and 1 big one = think about it, outside there is always good air flow - 13) Extractor fan -mine is 6 inch 14) Carbon Filter - mine is 6 inch im not overly impressed with any brand. 15) Ducting- 5m of 6 inch easy enough,well for me... 16) Ballast - LUMATEK -i found this one amazing and switchable. 17) Lightbulb -600w HPS ALL THE WAY but i would use 1000w HPS if i could keep the heat down, they both fit in same fitting 18) Air hood - i have a MAGNUM superXXXL it has screw in holders for glass , they are quite tight 19) Timer for lights , must be good quality , I do 17 hrs on 7 off as it's more natural 20) Syringes for measuring accurately 21) Bucket to mix solutions THE GOLDEN RULE - you can always put in but never take out - never put in too much or undiluted into the reservoir unless you really know what you are doing, less is better than too much . Ppm v EC - you may well buy an EC meter instead of ppm meter there is an easy way to convert between the two ~ 1.0 ec = 500 ppm EC multiply by 1000 then divide by 2 to get ppm This diary will start shortly but as so many people ask me how to setup HERE YOU GO :)

Ho sistemato LST giornalmente perché continuano a crearsi nuove ramificazioni e gemme ovunque. Sto irrigando con 0.5L di acqua ogni giorno, ma credo dovrò passare a 1lt perché l’assorbe subito. Giorno 35 - l’apicale si é spezzato al 50% ho provveduto subito a mettergli del nastro di carta intorno e fargli un sostegno sotto per reggerlo nella sua posizione. Immagino che ora se dovesse sopravvivere avrà un blocco di qualche giorno. *Giorno 35 h.20.30 dopo solamente 6 ore l’apicale ha iniziato ad alzarsi da solo staccandosi dal sostegno, assurdo!

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Day 75 watering with just ph controlled (6,2) water to finish flushing her Day 77 looks incredible frosty now, I Tonino I’m really close to CUt her. This afternoon I will check with microscope and, I’d like 25%amber and 75% milky

Ich denke noch etwas 1 Woche 😉 Seit 1 Woche gibt es nur noch klares Wasser

Flowers are getting bigger! Awesome

Die vierte Woche der Blüte hat begonnen. Der Platz im Zelt ist mehr als ausgeschöpft und die Pflanzen küssen fast die Lampe. Ich denke der Stretch ist vorbei, ich hoffe es zumindest. 🙏🏻 Diese Woche startet mit etwas Bio PK 5-8 von Biotabs. Die Blüten und die anliegenden Blätter fangen an zu glitzern. 💎 Ich habe dem Wassertank meines Autopot Systems einen Luftstein hinzugefügt. Wird das einen großen Effekt bringen? - keine Ahnung. Kann es schaden? - ich denke nicht.

2/28: Amnesia has some yellowing of the leaves that appeared around about 12 hours before my usual every-3-day feedings and after I started to defoliating some of the previous yellow leaves from the previous accidental lack of water. I'm not sure if it is progressing, or it's just because I'm dialing in the watering schedule and she's using the nutrients in the extra, fatter, lower leaves. I've increased Amnesia's light distance to 16 inches and am lowering the humidity to stick between 60-70% RH with the automatic fan set to remove excess humidity near the higher end of that range. Fresh air fan blowing around the tent and into the 2 lower vents. Smells like a fresh garden outside of the tent, however smells green when the tent is opened. Not a strong green smell, but mildy recognizable. 3/1: Welp, it's worsened, and has shown itself in both plants now. Since they share the same environment and nutrients, I suspect this to be a nutrient issue. Trainwreck was known for potentially having excess Nitrogen as shown by the extremely bushy growth, dark green leaves, and downward curling leaf-tips. However, Trainwreck is now no longer exhibiting those symptoms, and has lightened up and is stretching. But! Trainwreck is showing signs of potassium deficiency, with brown spots appearing on upper leaves. The same goes for Amnesia, brown spots have migrated their way to upper leaves. I'm thinking a banana tea will be good for them, so I've got a couple large banana peels steeping in the pump sprayer for this evenings watering. My conclusions: 1. Nutrient burn hitting Amnesia hard, but Trainwreck is riding it out from its stored excesses. 2. Both are lacking some potassium now that they're beefing up in flowering stage. Edit: I've decided to add a quarter-strength nutrient to this banana tea so as to not completely flush out the remaining nutrients. I believe that would leave her starved in between her next feeding, in 3-4 days from now. 3/2: Welp! That made it worse! Time to test the PH of my soil. If the PH is too far in one direction or the other, certain nutrients will be locked out. I've ordered a PH meter instead of these PH testing drops. I didn't know that the difference between 6.0 and 6.5 would be so drastic, but with that said, I need to be more precise about my PH levels if I want to maximize these nutrients. Until the PH meter gets delivered tomorrow I may, if my research says that I should, flush with plain water ph'd water to try to flush out salts and try to get the PH back to 6.5 where it needs to be. Edit: I do not believe this to be overfeeding, as I would expect nutrient burn on the tips of all leaves, but there are colas that are completely unaffected by the recent feedings. However, if the PH is off, and I suspect it is, individual deficiencies will pop up and affect the leaves differently. The other plant, trainwreck, which was planted later, may have contained less Ocean Forest nutrients from the top of the bag, and also more Happy Frog; so it's riding out these issues just fine. 3/4: The discoloring on Amnesia has not spread to any other leaves. I've done a little bit of defoliating on the yellow and crispy leaves. Looks like they're already being replaced. I've got my ph meter now, and doing a slurry test came out 6.4 on the top inch of soil, the only soil I could get to without ripping up the roots. Either way, I'm doing to be certain to PH tonight's feeding (half strength) perfectly to 6.5, as opposed to trying my best using PH testing drops, which is almost impossible! Trainwreck is getting some spots on her leaves, so she'll be ready for her feeding tomorrow.

Really happy with the progress. Not as full as others I've seen, but I've learned a lot in the process and will be better prepared from the start to grow big beautiful plants next time. Especially happy that Chonga has grown so much stronger and is now the exact same height as sister Chonga. Both plants have reached 21 inches.

Packing on weight and has this og earthy smell . Getting sticky and white

Ottimo raccolto, bei fiori sani buoni e sopratutto forti. Sono contento di avere da parte 2 semi nuovi da coltivare!! La pianta da subito è cresciuta in altezza mantenendo lo spirito sativo

On the end, I believe it's a verry nice strain for a begginer. Even with no feeding, and just regular gardening soil, I had amazing results. The plant was outdoor in the day, indoor during the night, so facing all the agression from the outside.... GG Blackberry ^^ The flowers are verry light, and that's because of the absence of feeding. They are very fluffy and not dense. But they are fully covered of trichomes, and have a pleasant smell and taste. Smooth smoke. So amazing result for my experience, and for the setup :) I'm disapointed about the taste for now. Maybe curing will change the taste, but for me it's mainly "Diesel" and that's definitly not what I was looking for. UPDATE AFTER 1 MONTH OF CURING : Well, i just realize the taste changed, and with a good flower (not too much leaves) i actually felt the taste of... Blackberries. IT's actually amazing :D Not berries, but really blackberries !! I will grow this strain again, but with feeding during veg and flowering, to get bigger and more dense buds. This one was too much leafy, and this is not the best for the taste. My "quest" for the "purple" taste I'm looking for continue. Next batch : I will try Purple Kush (auto) from Buddha Seeds, and Queen Sherbet from Royal Queen Seeds !

Transplant them in 25L Living soil Ill let them grow a little bit bigger so the space is filled nice & Even

Aug.24 and another round of thunderstorms overnight produced more rain and heavy winds but luckily no damage this time around. 👍 Most girls have past the pre-flowering stage and are showing little buds coming in. Still stretching and growing like crazy tho. Gonna have some big momma's to deal with. 😲😥 Last week plants were given a good flush with r/o water @ 6.3 pH to get them ready for the flowering stage.👌 This week started Bloom nutrients by Future Harvest cycle/schedule week #1 August 27 wind storm came through snapping another lower branch from Blue Fire #1. 😢 I hope the stress doesn’t cause her to herm. Aug.29 winds are supposed to reach over 60 km/h today and into Sunday. Let’s hope mother nature isn’t too pissed off 💨 Trainwreck #1 with her 10 big colas👆 are getting very heavy and smells of sweet citrus and pine oh ya💪 Trainwreck #2 is a sativa dominant girl that looks nothing like her sister #1 even tho they came in a 5 pack from Canuk Seeds. Gotta love variety 😋 Aug.30th Super Skunk auto #2 got chopped today after noticing a teeny area of bud rot. 🤔 Main cola is as thick as my fist and weighs just over a pound. 🤘😝🤘