Damn we r gettin' close to the end 💚. Week 6 of flower and the buds lookin' pretty frosty ❄️ and feel dense, too. The smell is very strong and kinda sweet 🤤.

Great week. Really starting to take off in growth. Onto full strength nutrients and going full power on the lights now :p Going to start my LST soon possibly this week or early next week. Will add more pictures and edit as the week goes :)

Welcome back!!! It’s the beginning of week four. I now consider this plant to have finished the seedling phase, now move onto the veg stage. THURSDAY - Day 22 10 October 24 - Switched the blue spec light out for the red spec light. - 380 PAR/ PPFD at 26 inches distance. - Topped the two bottom branches. - Started doing a little LST by adding a few staples and a little bit of branch manipulation. - She’s slowly shaping to my vision for this plant. - Gotta start thinking of up potting her soon into her final home. FRIDAY - Day 23 11 October 24 - Added two more LST staples. - Just a day under the lights. SATURDAY - Day 24 12 October 24 Watering day, 1 litre of dechlorinated tap water. - Base water 1 litre - 61.1 PPM Final - 1 litre at 6.45 PH at 62.8 PPM Runoff - N/A - Thinking of removing those giant fam leaves soon, they’re becoming cumbersome. - Did my final planned topping of the two top branches. - I tweaked a top branch and there was a pop at the knuckle, not a complete break but there’s a bit of damage. - I’m fairly confident that she’ll send resources to fix it and make it even stronger. - No stress, we push forwards and roll with the punches cause that’s what we do around here. SUNDAY - Day 25 13 October 24 - Just a day under the lights. - She doesn’t seem too bothered by yesterday’s branch tweaking. - There’s a but of a split but it seems to be scabbing over. - I’ll keep monitoring it over the next few days. MONDAY - Day 26 14 October 24 - Just a day under the lights. - Also a good recovery day. TUESDAY - Day 27 15 October 24 Transplant day into a 5 gallon pot and her final home. 60% Gaia Green Soil 20% Worm castings 20% Perlite 8 Tbsp Gaia Green All Purpose 4 Tbsp Gaia Green Power Bloom 5 Tbsp Diatomaceous Earth 1/2 Tbsp Dynomyco Amended this mix and transplanted. Watering day, 5 litres of dechlorinated tap water. - Base water 5 litres - 61.2 PPM - Add 2.5 ml Cal-Max - 172 PPM - Add 5 ml Supermax - 206 PPM - Add 15 ml Miicrobial Mass - 337 PPM Final - 5 litres at 6.61 PH at 337 PPM Runoff - N/A - Removed the LST staples to let her acclimate to her new home. - Will resume LST in a few days. - Removed the lowest fan leaves. - Some leaves are funky but they also are in the way of the important growth so they may get removed in the near future. WEDNESDAY - Day 28 16 October 24 - Just a day under the lights recovering from yesterday’s transplant and extended light hours. - She’s perked back up and looking happy though. - Probably resume with LST staples tomorrow. - The tweaked branch looks like it’s going to recover just fine, just a little weary about working it too soon. This is effectively the end of week four, it’s been quite eventful but we’re done with topping and transplanting so we’ll see how she gets on these next few weeks of pure unadulterated vegetation. Vamos!!

Thank you. Gave her a cocktail to help with stress. Added 1st net for lateral support, not so much now, but for later. Blue light is absorbed by photoreceptor proteins called phototropins, which trigger a hormonal response that causes cells on the shaded side to elongate, making the plant bend toward the light. Try and fill this side a little. She is quite big already, just needs to find her stride again after the undue torture. 5 apex stems with 20-30 mini cola, let them develop a little, with the apical dominance shattered, all those 20-30 will all compete with each other as soon as that stretch is initiated. Key to a good stretch is making sure the plant is cycling efficiently, with large ATP conversions occurring lights out. For now, I'm keeping light intensity high. A plant will slow its vertical growth in very high light intensities, leading to a more compact form with thicker stems and leaves. This response is a protective mechanism against light stress, which can damage the photosynthetic apparatus and lead to symptoms like leaf scorching, yellowing, and brittleness. Instead of growing taller, the plant invests its energy into creating a more robust, stress-tolerant structure. Providing plants with necessary antioxidants helps protect the photosynthetic apparatus by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause damage from excess light. UV light exposure can impact the xanthophyll cycle by either enhancing its photoprotective role or causing damage, depending on the intensity and type of UV radiation. UV exposure can trigger the synthesis of more xanthophyll cycle pigments to increase the plant's capacity to dissipate excess energy, but it can also cause direct damage, particularly to Photosystem II, and may lead to a decrease in the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) which indicates a reduced capacity to dissipate excess energy. Plants can respond to UV stress by increasing the synthesis of xanthophyll cycle pigments, such as violaxanthin and zeaxanthin, to improve their photoprotective capacity. UV-induced changes in xanthophyll cycle pigments can be linked to a plant's overall tolerance to high radiation stress. The xanthophyll cycle helps protect against photoinhibition, which is especially important when the plant is exposed to high levels of both UV and visible light. High doses of UV radiation can directly damage photosynthetic components, including the proteins, lipids, and pigments in the thylakoid membranes. Exposure to UV radiation can have a mixed effect on the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) of the xanthophyll cycle pigments. In some cases, UV can inhibit the conversion of violaxanthin to zeaxanthin, resulting in a lower DEPS ratio and a reduced capacity for energy dissipation. However, the total pool of xanthophyll cycle pigments may increase, and this enhanced pool size could provide a greater potential for photoprotection despite a lower DEPS ratio. The xanthophyll cycle works alongside other mechanisms, such as the accumulation of flavonoids (UV screens), to protect the plant from UV-induced damage. Blue light repairs 100% UV-induced damage in plants through a process called photoreactivation, which uses a light-dependent enzyme called photolyase. This enzyme uses energy from blue and UV-A light to directly reverse the damaging pyrimidine dimers in the DNA caused by UV-B radiation, a key mechanism for maintaining the plant's genetic integrity. After carbon, light, water, temperature, and nutrients, the limiting factor of a plant's growth is often its own internal factors or the amount of a key ingredient. Chlorophyll concentration is one such factor, as the amount of this pigment limits how much light can be captured for photosynthesis. Other factors include chloroplast number, respiration rate, and the concentration of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, as plants are often in a CO2-deficient condition. 60x60x18=64800seconds x 700 = 45,360,000moles. 45DLI Exposure to 165 µW/cm² of ultraviolet-B (UV-B) light for 3600 seconds = 1 hour, a extremely high, acute dose triggering stress responses and protective mechanisms. . The plant's photoreceptor protein, UVR8, senses the UV-B radiation. This triggers a signaling cascade that activates specific genes to protect the plant from damage. In response to the UV-B signal, the plant ramps up the biosynthesis of protective compounds like flavonoids, phenolic acids, and anthocyanins. These compounds absorb UV radiation and accumulate in the epidermal layers of leaves to shield inner photosynthetic tissues. The plant may increase leaf thickness or deposit more cuticular wax, creating a physical barrier to the radiation. The plant will produce more enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants to neutralize the reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced by the UV-B radiation. The plant activates enzymes, including photolyases, to repair DNA damage caused by the UV-B. These repair mechanisms are critical for preventing permanent genetic mutations. While protective measures are activated, a high dose delivered over a short period can cause stress that overwhelms the plant's defenses. Photosynthesis is highly sensitive to UV-B. A high dose can inactivate Photosystem II (PSII), damage thylakoid membranes within the chloroplasts, and reduce chlorophyll content, which lowers the plant's overall photosynthetic capacity. Despite repair mechanisms, high UV-B doses can inflict persistent damage on the plant's DNA. The overproduction of reactive oxygen species can cause oxidative stress, leading to the oxidation of lipids and proteins and disrupting cellular function.

Récolte de 70 grammes sec pour une plante en pot de 7 litres, magnifique. Royal Critical auto à refaire

Everything is going well although bud development seems to be a little slow. Not sure if this is strain related or because I did heavy defoliation in week three of flower. I'm now feeding 4 litres per week and it seems to be taking that nicely.

I was so excited to see some weed leaves pop out. Everyday the plants got noticeably bigger. I’m making sure their environment stays as consistant as possible. I did encounter my first issue. I went to refill my humidifier turns out the water had turned green. I emptied the tank into a glass you can see in the pics. Washed it and ill make sure to do so more frequently. I’m guessing it was stagnant for too long and algae grew? Has this happened to anyone? What cause it?

Plant is growing awesome. Tying down as she grows along with the idea she'll stay nice and short in my cramped tent. Watering every two or three days by removing from tent and placing in tub overfull of water - letting it feed from the bottom for a couple hours. Central stem/trunk looks strong and vigorous. Excited to see how the next week shakes out, should start flower 👽🤗🤗

In den letzten ein bis zwei Wochen hat sich unsere Pflanze weiterhin prächtig entwickelt und zeigt nun deutliche Anzeichen einer fortgeschrittenen Blütephase. Es gab keine dramatischen Veränderungen, sondern eine stetige Reifung, die uns dem Erntezeitpunkt näherbringt. Die Pflanze präsentiert sich sehr buschig und vital, mit zahlreichen dichten Blütenständen, die sich gut ausgebildet haben (siehe Gesamtansicht der Pflanze). Die Buds sind kompakt und haben in den letzten Wochen an Volumen und Gewicht zugelegt. Man kann deutlich sehen, wie die Blütenkelche anschwellen und sich zu reifen Blütenständen formen. Trichom- und Stigmen-Reife: Ein genauerer Blick auf die Buds (wie im ersten Nahaufnahme-Bild der Trichome und im weiteren Nahaufnahme-Bild der Buds mit orangenen Stigmen ersichtlich) zeigt den Fortschritt der Reifung. Die weißen, harzigen Trichome bedecken die Blütenstände in Hülle und Fülle, was auf eine intensive Produktion von Cannabinoiden hinweist. Bei den Trichomen ist nun eine gute Mischung aus milchig-trüben Köpfen zu erkennen, die auf die volle Potenz hindeuten. Erste bernsteinfarbene Trichome beginnen ebenfalls aufzutreten, was ein Zeichen dafür ist, dass der Erntezeitpunkt bevorsteht. Parallel dazu haben sich die Stigmen (die feinen Härchen auf den Buds) von Weiß zu einem satten Orange-Braun verfärbt. Dies ist ein weiteres starkes Indiz für die Reife der Blüten und die nahende Ernte. Blattwerk und Nährstoffbedarf: Das Blattwerk der Pflanze ist größtenteils weiterhin gesund und grün, was auf eine gute Nährstoffversorgung schließen lässt. Einige der größeren Fächerblätter können in dieser späten Blütephase leichte Anzeichen von Vergilbung zeigen, da die Pflanze ihre Energie nun primär in die Blütenentwicklung steckt und Nährstoffe aus den Blättern zieht. Dies ist ein natürlicher Prozess, der oft als "Herbstfärbung" bezeichnet wird. Wir werden die Reifung der Trichome weiterhin genauestens beobachten, um den optimalen Erntezeitpunkt zu bestimmen, der je nach gewünschtem Effekt variieren kann. Auch die allgemeine Gesundheit der Pflanze wird weiterhin im Auge behalten, um sicherzustellen, dass sie bis zur Ernte optimal versorgt ist.

Best mephisto in the garden, now

This plant was grown in pure coco with 30% perlite, one watering a day untill runoff, at the mid flowering i water once every 12hours. She does get very bushy and puts on all the weight at the end of flowering so i was a bit worried first but she blew up

Almost harvest time! One more week to go! I switched my light schedule from 20/4 to 18/6 for the last week. Leaves continue to die off and turn yellow. The buds are getting fatter. I am starting to see amber in the trichomes. I trimmed off the lower twig-like branches which contain popcorn nugs. I am going to feed her PH balanced water for the last week. See you all harvest time next week!

Adding video

Hi everyone 🤗. The tent bursts at the seams 😍. The buds are getting bigger and bigger :-). The blue chesse pheno 1 is harvested this week 😎. next week both Tangie Kosher Kush will be harvested :-) everyone else needs something 😊. I wish you all a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱

Das purpeln der einen Pflanze ist stark ausgeprägt. Wir gehen in die finale Phase. Die Trichome sehen echt super aus. Nur noch wenige Tage. Ich bin sehr auf den Ertrag gespannt.

Too small plant...

July 24, 2020 The phenotypes have been stretching as normal. Some of them already passed the 30 in mark. Some bottom leaves are turning yellow but we think it is normal for lower leaves to die. We not only gave the plants Gaia green bloom amendments but also, we fertilized the plants with some Alaska morbloom 0-10-10. (Once every three weeks) Water intake has been increasing. Now the plants are being water every other day. 10-14 liters for 10 plants. Happy grow🤤🌱🌱🌱🌱!!!!

Servus Moin Die Chemical Candy macht sich auch super auf dem Balkon. Ein paar Blätter wurden entfernt damit die anderen Triebe auch genug Licht bekommen.

Approaching the finish line. Fertilizer is now at its final dose. Both plants stopped growing now and started to build thick buds. Ken in fact is way ahead in terms of buds but it might be because he Hase a little bit less in number. It’s possible that I trained Ryu too much for his pot size 😆😆. But let’s see. Both looking very good and a lot more powerful than in my first grow. Water intake is still massive. The top soil is rock solid while draining water super fast which must mean the pots are filled with massive roots. The erected teeth came down a bit but they were never that severe in the first place so I’m still not worried about that. I skipped one day of watering to account for possible slight overfeeding but I mean, today’s watering then was with the increased dose of fert 😆😆. I know I’m pushing it a little bit but that’s deliberate. I have high demands both in mass and quality so my approach is riding the edge as good as possible from the beginning 😆

Timing seems about right. The current flowering plants are finishing so these will be in flower within two weeks. From all that I've learned this grow (being my first DWC), I plan on carrying on with a combination of organics and synthetics. Along with GHE products below, I'll be using the organics right along side. Mainly for the microbes and fungi. I plan on keeping my water about 1-2" below the basket with heavier pumps. Will be using the EcoPlus Eco Air 4 Four Outlet air pump divided into 2 buckets/2 air stones and using the 2 Marina 200 Air pumps for clones. That will more than double the airflow to the roots. When I change the res and even when I transfer over to the larger flower DWC bucket (3 gal - 5 gal) I'll be keeping a litre of the veg solution to add to the fresh new res, thus 'inoculating' it with the already stable microbial and fungal environment that it's been used to. As well, I'll continue with Hygrozyme on a 'maintenance' dosage when changing the res and adding a liter of the microbial and fungal tea listed below as well as a dose of Tarantula from Advanced Nutrients. Adding organic Alaskan veg and bloom fertilizer (some 'Fulvic acid' as well, like seaweed liquid. Plants uptake Fulvic better than Humic. Root fungi eat the Humic and poop out Fulvic!) in 'moderation' to help bring PH back down and feed microbes and fungi. Once the plants start really stacking, I'll add more synthetics to compensate and to lower PH. The organics can really mess with the EC so I'm not going to be freaking about high levels. Found that it didn't effect the plants health that much if at all. Dinamed Plus from Dinafem Seeds (1) and Blueberry Headband (1)from Humboldt Seeds. https://www.dinafem.org/en/dinamed-cbd-plus/ https://www.humboldtseeds.net/en/blueberry-headband/ Lighting https://www.horticulturelightinggroup.ca/products/260w-qb-v2-led-kit DWC Nutients https://generalhydroponics.com/floraseries FloraGro 1 ml/l FloraBloom .5 ml/l FloraMicro 1 ml/l Diamond Nectar: N/A https://generalhydroponics.com/diamond-nectar Cal Mag: 2 ml/l https://generalhydroponics.com/calimagic SuperThrive: .5 ml/l https://superthrive.com/ https://hylineproducts.com/products/hygrozyme/#one Grozyme: 2.5 ml/ltr Tarantula https://www.advancednutrients.com/products/tarantula/ Epsom salts Root Rot Tea 8 liters RO water 5 ml (1 tsp) organic sulphur free molasses 5 ml Alaskan Organic grow fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Alaskan bloom fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Seaweed or kelp fertilizer Handful of composted horse pucky Worm castings, sea soil, Gaia General Purpose and Bat Guano Phosphate optional * add after brewing 2-4 ml Advanced Nutrients Tarantula