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@Roberts
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RSV11 has been growing great. She got lollipopped today. I also did some hst with a selective defoliation as well. She has been growing strong and dominates the other plants in the room. Everything has been going smooth since the pest issue. Thank you Spider Farmer, and Terpyz mutant Genetics. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g
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Things are going well this past week GG#1 still suffering a little big from my mess up but over all she seems to be doing ok . The leaves on both GG#1 and GG#2 are both starting to gain some colour now they are starting to get purple around the edges of the leaves so pretty soon Im going to have some extra pretty looking plants !! :D :D :D Things are going to take roughly 1 week longer then I thought originally but thats fine ! I'm really looking forward to the next few weeks to come ! I'd like to thank everyone who stops by and checks out the diary . A special thank you goes out to my followers you guys are the bomb keep on keeping on !!! I hope everyone is enjoying what ever holiday they celebrate ! -Happy Growing!
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Cleaned up the #10 mother, with some defoliation, and LST! She's getting ready for her adventure outside this summer! Took more clones from the #4 mother, and cleaned her up. Happy growing! :)
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@Indicate
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Another week under the belt and I’m not sure how much longer to leave these two. Starting to smell a bit more like weed but still waiting on the clear to opaque transition. All I want for Christmas….
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These amazing genetics are after 12 hours on the ground, comming out these strain's cream caramel auto is the second faster after the dark devil auto.
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Week 4 was pretty solid for overall growth and for bud growth. I think the stretch phase is definitely done and the bud will start to pack on size from here on out. This seems like the fun part but it's becoming very smelly and sticky..extremely sticky. I touch it once and my fingers are glued together. Seems to me that they are all happy!! Normal feeding except for more bloom nutrients and no more adding nitrogen. I needed up buying Fox Farms Beastie Bloomz and gave the girls a nice feeding which they loved! I also bought a trellis net and added it, I also bought fabric pots but wont use until next run. I also got a Govee device to monitor humidity and temp better so I can dial in the VPD! Learning so much and VPD is definitely one of the most important aspects to dial in! So far so good this week! I'm loving the trellis net addition! Makes it look so nice! Thanks for any advice!!
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@J_diaz420
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Realmente muy feliz con lo obtenido, 307g en 0.8me me parece genial, estas flores tienen un aroma genial entre el típico haze mezclado con cacao, un efecto muy agradable y confortable, rica al fumar y muy poco picante gracias al lavado de raíces con flawles finish 👌👨‍🌾🏻 Totalmente recomendable esta genética de royalqueenseeds muy agradecido por la oportunidad 👍👌👨‍🌾🏻
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@pzwags420
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On day 1 the reservoirs PH is 6.3. The rez is 483 ppm. The girls are looking good and nitrogen toxicity seems to have stopped. On day 2 the reservoirs PH was adjusted from 6.1 to 6.3. The rez is 477 ppm. Trichomes seem to be 10% cloudy so I still have a bit to go i'm thinking 9 weeks should be a good bet! On day 3 the reservoirs PH was adjusted from 6.4 to 6.1. The rez is 500 ppm. On day 4 the reservoirs PH is 6.2. The rez is 503 ppm. I lowered the ppfd so my tallest received 900 ppfd and an average of 543 ppfd. On day 5 the reservoirs PH is 6.2. The rez is 519 ppm. I removed some of the extra fan leaves blocking bud sites. On day 6 I changed out the reservoir with only tap water and adjusted the PH from 6.7 to 6.1 with a ppm of 249. The trichomes are maturing and I plan on harvesting on week 8 day 4 of flower. On day 7 the reservoirs PH was adjusted from 6.5 to 6.0. The rez ppm is 250.
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@SirSalami
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Thank you to all that have helped me along this journey. All of the answers, tips, comments, likes, and other diaries have been so very motivating to me. I originally started this diary only for my own reference but I'm so pleased to have learned that others have found it helpful or interesting, for whatever reason. If you're curious about equipment see the germination page and if you have questions feel free to drop me a line. So, without further ado: Jan 19 Day 105 Harvest day! 🎉🎉 Not really knowing how to tackle the situation, I started by cutting all of the fan leaves I was able to reach. Then, I cut each branch working from the perimeter inward - which due to the way she grew, was essentially the same as working from the bottom branches of the meristem to the top. Each branch was cut, cleaned, and handled individually before moving on to the next. Decided to wet-trim most of the branches, leaving 4 fairly untouched (only fan leaves were removed). Will be interested to see the differences, if any. They're all drying/hanging near the grow tent ~45%RH, 72F (22C). It isn't completely dark though, as some light is escaping the tent into the closet where they are hanging. I'm hoping this isn't terrible but I'll be keeping my eye on them. The process took the better part of an evening but I was cautiously learning, taking breaks, and generally being fairly slow. I'm sure I'll be faster and more confident next time. Jan 27 Day 113 Drying is complete, I think. Branches were hung and dried for 8 days in a consistent 68F (20C) 40% RH. They were determined to be dried after hearing a snap when bending (not breaking) large stems and buds felt dry to touch. Sugar leaves bordering on crispy while buds still had some give / fluffiness. The flowers from previously manicured branches were relatively easily plucked. However, the dry trimming process for the unmanicured branches proved to be a bit of a pain. They have been placed in a pyrex container to cure. I'm hoping flavors and aromas that are currently lacking will develop in time. 🤞 --- Stats --- Veg time: ~45 days. Flowering time: ~60 days. Height ~18in., ~46cm. Main Bud Length: ~9in., 23cm. Harvested 16 Hangable branches and a few extra medium/small buds. Bud Wet Weight, with stems: 242g, ~8.5oz. Larf/Popcorn Sugar-leaf Wet Weight (not counted above): 18g, ~0.6oz. Leaf/Waste Wet Weight: 38g, ~1.3oz. Drying time: 8 days. Dried Weight with Stems: 70g, ~2oz. Trimmed and Dried Total Bud Weight: 50g, ~1.75oz. --- Thoughts in hindsight --- Firstly, I can't believe I haven't tried growing sooner. So rewarding in so many ways! My initial hope was to harvest an oz., so I am obviously quite happy we could surpass that mark by a good margin. This is a testament to the plant more than me of course, as I was completely inexperienced and was purposefully as hands-off as I could be comfortable with throughout her growth. I can only imagine things will improve with time. Paper-towel germination seems to be prone to more stress for myself and arguably the seedling as well. Floating in 1% H2O2 solution seems to be ideal for me. I made bad soil choices. This mixture seemed to be too dense, leading to some watering/strangulation issues mid-growth. My 2nd grow consisting of mostly coco coir seems healthier and seems easier to maintain proper hydration. Coco might also be reusable while this soil definitely seems spent now. I didn't respect pH at first and initial testing was eye-opening. That said, after simply testing water and fertilizer readings a few times, I gradually felt more comfortable with guestimating during most feedings, only testing sporadically later in her life cycle. This seemed to be fine and was a bit of a relief after early testing proved tedious every feed. I've been happy with Better-Gro orchid fertilizer. This is of course contrary to most advice, which I admit is probably for good reason. That said though, I didn't notice any major toxicities or deficiencies during her grow. So, these products seem to have worked for me and are so much more affordable than cannabis-specific fertilizers. I was quite weary about not having cal-mag, but this never seemed to be an issue in this particular case. However, I'll be keeping a similar eye on my 2nd grow in coco, which I understand may need it. Training and pruning is important. This plant was quite bushy and wild likely resulting in quite a bit of unnecessary larf/popcorn. Not to mention the additional time needed to trim when harvesting. Also regarding training, pipe cleaners can leave noticeable cuts in the stem they hold. Thickly coated flexible garden wire would likely be ideal. I need to get a loupe or magnifying attachment for the phone. Digital zoom with shaky hands is not great for checking trichomes and my 3x magnifying glass just doesn't cut it. I cannot speak toward potency or yield without more experience, but simply for the sake of a greener hue, I think I could've harvested her a week earlier. Because I left a few branches untended during dry, I was able to experience both the wet and dry trimming processes. Unless keeping leaves for extra humidity during drying, I seem to prefer wet trimming as the still supple leaves were easier to remove with less bud handling. I'll add more thoughts if/when they come. Thank you again for stopping by! 👋
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@Spliffi
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Week 11👍🤙👍🌱 I can see the end. This Contest have been a eye opener!! Jon Dabs Check them out here: https://jondabs.com @jondabs Instagram The Sponsors Check them out here: Dutch Passion https://dutch-passion.com/en/ Hydroponic.co.za https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponic/harvesting-and-growing-accessories/ Bud Juice https://www.gohydro.co.za The Best Grow https://thebestgrow.co.za Dynomyco https://www.dynomyco.com Nuclear Roots https://www.nuclearroots.co.za Photronic https://shop.photronic.net Special Thanks to Hydroponic.co.za. I buy all my products from them. Best service. Daily updates coming...
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Week 5: This week was all about battling bugs, adjusting fans endlessly, making bug traps, blood and sweat, and of course the dreaded humidity. I found a few mosquitos and Aphids munching on my girl. Unfortunately mosquitos are a “resident” of the area I live too so had to set a few bug traps. Also ordered some cool equipment and organic insecticide to get her feeling right as rain again, really looking forward to our next week. Topped her and have already starting doing some LST to spread the branches and get more light onto new growth, from which is doing very well. Scary experience as I was afraid of hurting her, tore a leaf here or there but no harm done. Once again the great genetics from Humboldt seed organization and Quality Just Cannabis soil kept her stable and she pulled through! Sipping more water this week a little more than 5L water. Still battling humidity with the fluctuating weather but that should be sorted in the next few days... until next week ✌️
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Welcome Back!💚 Nach der sechsten Blütewoche konzentriert sich die Pflanze voll auf die Blüten- ähhhh Samenproduktion! Ja leider. Es sind einiges an Seeds die sich entwickeln. Den es haben sich doch viele Hermaphroditensäckchen gebildet. Größtenteils doch auch unbemerkt, da ich die Pflanze ständig abgesucht und kontrolliert hatte. Leider wohl doch... Scheint als wäre die Genetik trotz der stark wissenschaftlichen Absicht irgendwie instabil. Ist bereits der zweite Versuch und Zack schon wieder. Naja, ich werde sie dennoch fertig Growen, da ich auf jedenfall auf das Wirkspektrum gespannt bin. Und jetzt die Pflanze zu kappen, dafür wäre mir die Arbeit zu schade Die Pflanze ist von der Beschreibung her nicht darauf getrimmt viele Trichome auszubilden, da dass Hauptaugenmerk ja auch auf die THCV Produktion gelegt wurde. Ich hoffe dass sich die Samenproduktion in Grenzen hält Die Umgebungsgegebenheiten sind ok: ————— 🌞 Temp: 26°C 🌚 Temp: 18°C bis 19°C 💨 RH: 56% VPD: 1,10 kPa 😎 PPFd: 830 mqm ————— Viele Grüße 👋
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@Socal6pak
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Received TWO 5packs of rhino Ryder as freebies. Gonna grow these outdoors and see how they do. Gonna take advantage of socal sunshine. Only 4 out 5 sprouted. It’s old beans I think. So that’s a good pop rate. I think.
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@HookahCli
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d33 Hoy subo fotos unos días antes de esta semana, mejor, tendremos más fotos. Hoy me he puesto a revisar un poco las plantas y me he dado cuenta de que las Lemon Krystal son hermafroditas, la que estaba en la parte de dentro, solo tiene unos pocos sacos de polen que todavía no están maduros, se los he arrancado y cortado 2 ramas que tenían mala pinta con eso, el resto de ramas parece estar bastante bien y son flores macho, la Lemon Krystal que esta mas cerca de la puerta del armario, esta bastante mal y la tendré que desechar ya que no quiero que polinice al resto de plantas. También una Kandy Kush, la de la derecha, le he quitado 2 flores macho, no parecía tener más, unas flores espontáneas, pero semillas a granel a veces pueden pasar estas cosas, no es lo normal, pero parece que la cepa de Lemon Krystal esta un poco jodida... Para añadir, la LK que parece que podremos sacar adelante(pero bajo supervisión) tiene una rama que tiene 4 cogollos en vez de 2, mola, pero si no se pone a sacar flores macho, la podremos continuar haciendo seguimiento. Tenemos un cogollo de la Kandy Kush(planta del centro) que es doble. Puede ser que tengamos algo polinizado en el Indoor, pero pues es algo que ha pasado, espero no tener muchas semillas mermara la calidad... d35 Unas fotitos rapidas... Parece que estan progresando las deficiencias, a final de semana añadiremos un poco m'as de abono a ver como responde
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553