Altough the "anonymous" seedling was still a bit behind, I decided to move the plants into the AutoPots. The pots were still disconnected from the tank and the plants were handwatered for the time being. 3 days later it was clear that "anonymous" had died. I was getting a bit frustrated since the fourth pot was now empty and the other 3 plants were growing happily. I started another germination attempt.

In this week, one of the "anonymous" seeds germinated (2nd attempt) and stared growing, so I felt confident, that the 4th plant was finally here and not too far behind.

In this week, the Acapulco Gold, GMO, and Glookies successfully germinated and grew into little seedlings, while the first "anonymous" germination attempt failed.

Still trying to find the issue, I noticed that new growth mostly looked fine and the plants were growing quickly still after watering and leaf issues started popping up only after the soil had dried out quite a bit already. So was I underwatering? Was the EC in the soil rising after too much dryback? Still, the plants were quite light in color, but that did not seem like my biggest issue. I topped the GMO a few more times, because it had grown so tall. Finally I decided to put the Sour Strawberry seedling into the AutoPot as well.

This week started out with some yellowing on the GMO, which had grown incredibly quickly and was much taller than the other 2. Acapulco Gold was the shortest of the 3, but had grown with very short internodial spacing. I wanted to move the Sour Strawberry over as soon as possible, but it grew a bit slowly, maybe I overwatered it a bit. In an attempt to counteract the yellowing on the GMO, I decided to try out the AutoPots. Was that a good idea at this point? I don't know, but I had to try them out eventually. After turning it on, the plants started degrading quickly. I don't know what exactly caused the issue, my best guess is it's a pH issue. But this is where it started going downhill for me, especially since I was still trying to get the 4th one going in the first place. I quickly turned off the AutoPots again and went back to hand watering, also while trying to find the issue, I left out much of the things I had added to the AutoPot tank.

All caught up now! Attached is some shots with less effort put into them, then a couple shots of her main kola sparkling with trichome frost. Oh baby, she stacked muuuch harder than I remember earlier on this week. Just absolutely packing on the resin all throughout her nodes. Not just the main kola, but the lower ones too. Very pleased! Quite happy with the flash-adjusted shots of the main kola too, you can see she's just icing herself out like it's a full-time job, which I suppose it is for her at this stage of flower. Still has a relative smell of skunk, but has developed a really lovely and strong citrus note/lemon peel that overrides that skunk hit. Gas notes on the end sort of highlight the sting of the lemon terps. Gorgeous phenotype/s for sure.

The flowers are swelling up, the leaves are getting lighter, I noticed the Glookies are starting to show some purple. This made me a bit excited, because during my previous grows most of the plants were plain green, only rarely with a bit of purple on some flowers. The smell is still incredible, I am so far happy with the choices in strains that I made.

I was getting a bit frustrated again, since I could not seem to fix the issue properly. I put in a net and super cropped the GMO twice, while bending the rest of the GMO and Glookies under the net. I chose the height to be slightly above where the Acapulco Gold was so I could push it into and did not have too much trouble to also fit the other 2, much taller plants underneath. I had to move the tallest GMO branch across the center of the tent, invading the space of Sour Strawberry and Acapulco Gold.

It's been 8 weeks already, I had practically lost 4 weeks due to the "anonymous" debacle and the plants weren't looking too great - aside from Sour Strawberry, which was odd looking, because it kept topping itself but otherwise perfectly healthy. So I decided to flip to flower.

Finally the Sour Strawberry started catching up! It seemed to have some sort of mutation where it topped itself and also rotated while growing. In the timelapse you can see the entire plant rotates about 90° over the course of the week. Sadly the other 3 plants kept throwing new issues at me and were at very different heights, all while the Sour Strawberry was tiny. Bending them had little effect and I did not actually want to super crop them just yet. I had to put in a net.

The plants were stretching a bit, pretty much as expected - except for the Sour Strawberry. I don't know if it was due to it getting a bit less light since it was much shorter, but it tripled its size and overtook all of the other plants in height. OK. I guess I could have flipped 2 weeks earlier? Anyway, stretch was almost over, flowers started forming. Some of the plants still looked a bit meh and yellow-ish, but overall the growth during stretch looked healthier than the previous 1-2 weeks.

Easy Going No Issues

Everything went well appart from the afids in the end. She looks very pretty and smells awesome! Yield could be a litle higher... Still shooting for less than 1€/g. I think I will stop topping my plants. Maybe next time. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Set up cost (fixed costs) -Lamp: 40€ -Timer: 3,5€ -Pot: 4€ -Total fixed costs: 47,5€ Given 5 years (or 15 grows) usage time translates to around 3,17€ per grow in materials. Variable costs: -Seed: 10€ -Soil: 6€ -Fertilizer: 3,50€ -Power (68 days 20h/day): 19,58€ -Total variable costs: 39,08€ -Total costs per grow: 42,25€ -Cost per Gram: 1,63€

This is my second growth in a suitcase, I got 30 grams of dry flowers from the first growth, but this growth together with FastBuds is obviously much better than the first one :) although the girl's leaves burn from the light, which is only 10-15 cm from the flowers, but the girl copes with it perfectly :) good luck to everyone.

Timelaps

I put the plants into an NFT system couple weeks ago. I could have waited a bit longer for the plants to develop a stronger root system before placing the rockwool cubes into NFT but I was being impatient because of the slow start and wanted to get the plants under proper light. Now two weeks later they are growing well with good root development. I switched the lights to flowering cycle about a week ago so they should start stretching soon. No preflowers yet.

d.71. had trouble uploading video, so i uploaded some screenshots from the video. d.72 shes looking better after the dose of orgatrex i gave her yesterday. d.73 buds getting bigger 🌞

Because my English is for the cat, I will continue to write my diaries in german. It‘s much easier for me. Hier ist Platz für Fotos, Videos, Gedanken, Einsichten und Aussichten rund um die Themen Permakultur und selbst hergestellte Dünger und Erden. Wenn du an ökologischem Gärtnern oder kochen und backen mit Cannabis interessiert bist, dann schau gerne ab und zu vorbei.

The ideal PPFD level for seedlings is between 100-300 micromoles per square meter per second (μmol/m²/s). This softer lighting mimics the diffused sunlight of early spring, providing enough energy for seedling-stage plants to develop their initial leaves without overwhelming them. at 48 inches from light sources, the seedlings receive around 150-180μmol/m²/s, as they grow they grow towards the higher levels of ppfd naturally. Urine is a liquid waste product as a result of our kidneys cleaning and filtering our blood. Typically, urine contains around 95% water and the rest are a mix of salts including sodium, potassium and chloride, urea, and uric acid. Due to the high water content in pee, the more you drink, the more you have to go. For a healthy person, human urine typically has a pH of around 6.2 with a range of 5.5-7.0. A person’s diet and alcohol consumption can also affect the pH of their urine. The main organic component of urine is urea, a combination of ammonia and carbon dioxide, which is the byproduct of our bodies breaking down proteins into usable amino acids. Urea is very high in nitrogen, a key ingredient to healthy leafy growth in plants. In addition to being very nitrogen-rich, urine also contains dissolved phosphorus that’s immediately available to plants, making urine a quick-acting fertilizer. If you own a dog, you may be familiar with yellow patches on your lawn where your pet has peed. Dogs and cats excrete fresh urine with a higher quantity of urea than humans do and that can more easily burn a plant upon contact. Human urine contains less urea and thus less ammonia. Despite Bear Grylls drinking urine in his popular survival shows, urine is not sterile. It picks up trace amounts of bacteria as the sterile version passes through the bladder, the urinary tract and comes in contact with the skin. Still, the health risks of using urine are very low because urine does not typically contain pathogens found in feces. Infectious diseases like cholera are spread through water sources contaminated by poop. In areas with poor sanitation, there is no way to separate solid and liquid waste which is why all untreated mixed sewage can pose significant public health risks. Only 10-15% of all nutrition you ingest is absorbed, all the rest is disposed of in the urea of urine, 95% Water, 5% Urea. Human urine consists primarily of water (91% to 96%), with organic solutes including urea, creatinine, uric acid, and trace amounts of enzymes, carbohydrates, hormones, fatty acids, pigments, and mucins, and inorganic ions such as sodium (Na+), potassium (K+), chloride (Cl-), magnesium (Mg2+), calcium (Ca2+), ammonium (NH4+), sulfates (SO42-), and phosphates (e.g., PO43-).1 A Representative Chemical Composition of Urine Water (H2O): 95% Urea (H2NCONH2): 9.3 g/l to 23.3 g/l Chloride (Cl-): 1.87 g/l to 8.4 g/l Sodium (Na+): 1.17 g/l to 4.39 g/l Potassium (K+): 0.750 g/l to 2.61 g/l Creatinine (C4H7N3O): 0.670 g/l to 2.15 g/l Inorganic sulfur (S): 0.163 to 1.80 g/l The pH of human urine ranges from 5.5 to 7, averaging around 6.2. The specific gravity ranges from 1.003 to 1.035. Significant deviations in pH3 Chemical Concentration in g/100 ml urine Water 95 Urea 2 Sodium 0.6 Chloride 0.6 Sulfate 0.18 Potassium 0.15 Phosphate 0.12 Creatinine 0.1 Ammonia 0.05 Uric acid 0.03 Calcium 0.015 Magnesium 0.01 The element abundance depends on diet, health, and hydration level, but human urine consists of approximately: Oxygen (O): 8.25 g/l Nitrogen (N): 8/12 g/l Carbon (C): 6.87 g/l Hydrogen (H): 1.51 g/l Morning piss is best, diluted to 6-10 parts water. Breaking Down Nitrogen Forms & Their Impact: Forms of Nitrogen: Nitrogen, comes in three primary forms: ammonium, nitrate, and urea. Ammonium (NH4+) carries a positive charge, nitrate (NH3–)carries a negative charge, while urea ((NH2)2CO) carries no charge. Natural Processes in Media: Once these nitrogen forms are introduced into the growing media, natural processes kick in. Bacteria play a vital role, converting urea to ammonium or ammonium to nitrate. This latter conversion releases hydrogen ions, increasing media acidity. Urea Conversion: Urea undergoes rapid conversion to ammonium in the soil, usually within two days. Both urea and ammonium are often grouped together and referred to as ammoniacal nitrogen. When plants absorb nitrogen, they typically release a molecule with the same charge to maintain internal pH. This process can also alter the pH of the media surrounding the roots. pH Effects of Nitrogen Uptake: Ammonium (NO4) Uptake and pH: When plants absorb ammonium, they release hydrogen ions (H+) into the media. This increases the acidity of the media over time, decreasing the pH. Nitrate (NO3) Uptake and pH: Plants take up nitrate by releasing hydroxide ions (OH–). These ions combine with hydrogen ions to form water. The reduction in hydrogen ions eventually reduces the media acidity increasing the pH. Nitrate (NO3) Absorption Variations: Sometimes, plants absorb nitrate differently, either by taking in hydrogen ions or releasing bicarbonate. Like hydroxide ions, bicarbonate reacts with hydrogen ions and indirectly raises the media pH. Understanding these processes helps in choosing the appropriate fertilizer to manage media pH. Depending on the nutrients present, the media’s acidity or alkalinity can be adjusted to optimize plant growth. Risks of Ammoniacal Nitrogen: Plants can only absorb a certain amount of nitrogen at a time. However, they have the ability to store excess nitrogen for later use if needed. Nitrate (NO3) vs. Ammonium (NH4): Plants can safely store nitrate, but too much ammonium can harm cells. Thankfully, bacteria in the media convert urea and ammonium to nitrate, reducing the risk of ammonium buildup. Factors Affecting Ammonium (NH4) Levels: Certain conditions like low temperatures, waterlogged media, and low pH can prevent bacteria from converting ammonium. This can lead to toxic levels of ammonium in the media, causing damage to plant cells. Symptoms of Ammonium (NH4) Toxicity: Upward or downward curling of lower leaves depending on plant species; and yellowing between the veins of older leaves which can progress to cell death. Preventing Ammonium (NH4) Toxicity: When it comes to nitrogen breakdown of a nutrient solution, it’s crucial not to exceed 30% of the total nitrogen as ammoniacal nitrogen. Higher levels can lead to toxicity, severe damage, and even plant death. Ideal Nitrogen Ratio for Cannabis: Best Nitrogen (NO3) Ratio: Research shows that medical cannabis plants respond best to nitrogen supplied in the form of nitrate (NO3). This helps them produce more flowers and maintain healthy levels of secondary compounds. Safe Ammonium (NH4) Levels: While high levels of ammonium (NH4) can be harmful to cannabis plants, moderate levels (around 10-30% of the total nitrogen) are are considered most suitable. This level helps prevent leaf burn and pH changes in the media. Nitrogen: nitrate (NO3-) and ammonium (NH4+) Nitrogen is mobile in the plant. When it is in the soil it is mobile as Nitrate NO3– and is immobile as Ammonium NH4+ All those nutrients should be in ionic form, either in the soil or in a nutrient solution. Ions are simply the atomic or molecule form having +ve or –ve charge. As we know, the positive attracts the negative, and the same charge elements will repel each other; this power of charge represents the strength of the element. The positive ions are known as Cation, while negative ions are Anions. The anions want to disperse themselves to even concentrations, so they move from higher concentrations to lower concentrations. As we look at the soil structure, it’s a composition of particles; those particles attract the positive ions (+Ve), repel the Negative ions (-ve), and float freely in the water. This attraction of Cation by the soil particles is called Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), which measures the number of cations that can be retained by the soil particles. The higher the CEC, the more Cation Nutrients can be stored in the soil. As a result, the higher CEC soils can become more nutrient-rich; also, keep in mind the soil composition is diverse and varies among different soil types.

11/28 First day of flowering. Plants recovering from defoliation, estimated flowering time 9 to 10 weeks.