This week I decided to remove the LST and let her strech out as much as she wants. I lollipopped her on day 49 and cutted down all the branches that will never grow to the light. She has to strech as much as possible because there are some way taller plants under the same light. I hope she gonna produce some nice flower and will continue to strach abit. Thanks Fastbuds for the Amazing Strain !

Hi everyone 🤗 This week is very strong growth nothing happens :-) everything as usual, I think in 2-3 weeks you will move to the flower tent 😍. I wish you all a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱 You can buy the strain at : www.Zamnesia.com Type: Runtz ☝️🏼 Genetics: Zkittlez x Gelato 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Nutrients : Canna Bio ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0 - 6.3 💦💧

This week the rain beat these girls but they are striving ...Looking forward for continued growth no water was necessary this week for sure.

------------------------------------------------- Day 43 Water: 0.75 Gallon TT Water w/ 0.75 TBSP Blkstrp Mlsses 6.5 pH Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.2° celsius @ 49% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.2° celsius @ 47% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 44 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.8° celsius @ 45% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.2° celsius @ 44% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 45 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.4° celsius @ 44% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.5° celsius @ 48% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 46 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.2° celsius @ 47% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.3° celsius @ 49% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 47 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.4° celsius @ 42% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.8° celsius @ 49% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 48 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.4° celsius @ 42% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.8° celsius @ 49% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 49 Water: 1 Gallon TT Water w/ 1 TBSP Blkstrp Mlsses + 0.75ml/L Alaska Morbloom 5.7 pH Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.6° celsius @ 49% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.7° celsius @ 49% RH) -------------------------------------------------

Día 50 (09/12) Busy time Solo riego! Día 51 (10/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 no para de crecer! ¿Parará el stretch? 💥 OG Kush Auto avanzan las manchas en las hojas... ¿Será deficiencia o carencia? Día 52 (11/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 está demandado más agua. Subo a 1500 ml / día de H2O RO CBD Auto #2 está ralentizando el consumo de agua (el top se muestra húmedo). ¿Estará entrando en la fase final de floración?. Según FastBuds le quedan 11 a 18 días! OG Kush Auto también demanda más agua! Subo a 1250 ml / día de H2O RO Día 53 (12/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 es increíble como no para de estirarse y de formar nudos y hojas! Parece una Sativa pura que nunca para de crecer en floración! CBD Auto #2 empieza a mostrar algunas hojas con senescencia. Se acerca la cosecha! LSD-25 Auto está haciendo unos cogollos densos y duros como rocas 😍💥 No está tampoco lejos de la cosecha! 💥💨😁 OG Kush Auto produciendo una resina brutal en las hojas de azúcar! 😍 Día 54 (13/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 no para el stretch. Le hago una poda de bajos y ligera defoliación OG Kush Auto está generando una cantidad de tricomas increíble. Además huele a Kush deliciosamente 😍😍😍 Día 55 (14/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 para un poco el consumo de agua en ¿Fin del stretch? Casi toca la lámpara de nuevo! CBD Auto 20:1 #2 empieza a mostrar la senescencia. Reviso los tricomas con muchos turbios y alguno transparente. ¿Estará en una semana más aproximadamente? 🤔 Día 56 (15/12) OG Kush Auto ha bajado un poco el consumo de agua La cantidad de tricomas que está haciendo es insana e increíble. Y como huele! 😍 LSD-25 Auto muestra los tricomas trasparentes y algunos turbios. ¿Quizás dos semanas para la cosecha? 💦Nutrients by Bio Tabs - www.biotabs.nl/en/ 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/products/pro-mix-hp-biofungicide-plus-mycorrhizae "GDBT420" 15% DISCOUNT code for the BIOTABS Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/

Englischversion below Deutsch: Tag 22 Veg: An den einstellungen zu VPD PPFD und PPM hat sich nichts verändert. Die Pflanzen regieren mit starkem Wachstum. Alle 2 Tage werden die Triebe mit äußerster Vorsicht waagerecht zum Boden ausgerichtet. Ziel der aktuellen Phase ist es den Rand des Topes mit minimalem Höhenwachstum zu erreichen. Tag 26 Veg: Alle 2 Tag werden die Damen durch ein vorsichtiges LST in form gebracht. Die beiden stärksten Triebe der Pflanzen wurden erneut getoppt. Es ist wichtig auf die Pflanze zu achten - triebe die bereits recht dünn erscheinen sollten nicht erneut getoppt werden. Durch das rigorose Wachstum steigt auch die Transpirationsrate der Pflanzen. Entsprechend stieg die RLF% dauerhaft über 80%. Laut VPD ist bei einer Temp von 27-29,5 grad ein RLF% von ca. 63-73%. Eine Luftentfeuchter wurde eingebastelt und sorgt für die entsprechende RLF%. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 22 – Vegetative Phase: There have been no changes to the VPD, PPFD, or CO₂ (ppm) settings. The plants are responding with strong growth. Every two days, the shoots are carefully guided horizontally toward the ground with great caution. The goal of the current phase is to reach the edge of the pot while maintaining minimal vertical growth. Day 26 – Vegetative Phase: Every two days, the plants are shaped using careful LST. The two strongest shoots of each plant were topped again. It is important to closely observe the plants—shoots that already appear relatively thin should not be topped again. Due to the vigorous growth, the plants’ transpiration rate has increased. As a result, relative humidity consistently rose above 80%. According to VPD targets, at temperatures between 27 and 29.5 °C, an RH of approximately 63–73% is required. A dehumidifier was improvised and now ensures the appropriate relative humidity.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de floración de estas Papaya sherbet feminizadas de fastbuds. Vamos al lío, de las 3 plantas, me quede con 2 por espacio, siempre pongo alguna semilla de más por si no abriese alguna por no perder ese hueco del indoor. También se trasplantaron a su maceta definitiva, en este caso de 7 litros, que el mismo trasplante provocó un shock, que también fue solucionado inmediatamente. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Still feeding them flower food. Today, June 11 I’m finally updated! I’m thinking I can get a few more weeks out of them. What do you guys think?

Defoliated this week, they don't seem to bothered. 😅 maybe they didn't even notice. I will give them a week then Defoliated again if necessary.

Last week was just too rainy and stormy. It was in danger of being completely lost. I harvested it now to save what I could. I can't even imagine how big the harvest would have been if I had harvested the whole plant? Definitely over 1 kg. A really great landrace.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

Just letting her ripen now, colours coming in.. and fading out nicely. Last few days will be RO water. EC is still lower than what comes out of my tap, 0.5. We are near.. Day 77 - the girls are nicely faded/flushed with RO water, so my EC is sitting lower than what comes out of the tap.. only like white ash burning and to maximise flavour and smells. Shes currently a problem as the small tester bid i took left the whole place smelling very strong to the point where i haven't chopped her yet as the smells too strong even with a carbon filter. (No joke). Thinking to possibly chop either tomorrow or the day after. Not much to report until I've chopped and left to hang dry, I'd normally let the whole plant hang dry but might have to do it differently due to the sheer size of these girls. Once hang dried she will be in jars (might even get some more boveda packs). But yeah, stay tuned for this one 😉 this ones gonna pack a punch. Again i tried to upload a 3 minute video but GD won't allow the video.

What a monster I'm happy to have stepped up to the big pot. I'm going bigger 😳🤓.... This girl is a little restricted but I gave her a good defoli and the smooth light is spread out as best as i can get.

flushing... i am almost done...

Beast mode baby! This girl is just thriving, no complaints here. 💪

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Hi Guys. Here we are starting week two, the news is: - My 60x60x140 Senua tent, 3gl pots, VIPAR P1000 Light, and the fan have arrived. So, two of the little ones I put in the new pots, the other one I will try to grow as a Bonsai, the bonsai pot will arrive in two days, so I am really excited to start the bonsai project, I am thinking about creating a Diary for that. :-) The biggest one (in the photo) is showing some yellow parts in the leaves, is that an issue? Another question, I used the Nutrients as the information on the label, is that too much? Thanks guys, I will appreciate any help :-)

Day 50 since seed touched soil. From now on all is in stable position. AK will always be in right corner from now. Biggest, fattest girl in all garden, takes a bit effort to bend even few top, stacked and fat ;) 5 liters went in, want good run off and saturation. Later today will install second level of scrog. Reposition all shoots, some are lost, i almost regret instaling scrog, lost control of even height a bit, but canopy is very dense, branches went fatter during that week, i am happy . Mars TSL2000 is on 80% will increase to 90% at the end of this week. Day 53. Second level of scrog almost eaten, will have to make third, plus heavy clearing awaits next week ... Day 54. Think tomorrow is watering day. Girls need good clearing, bottom canopy been canibalised heavily, lack off air shows a lot. Will do third level of scrog together with watering. Happy Growing !!!