22 - 28 septiembre En mitad de la 7ta semana de floración olor crítico delicioso El banco recomienda de 7 a 8 semanas esperaremos a observar su mejor punto sin pasarnos

So im retroactively uploading this after some phone issues the weeks may not be 100% accurate but the content is! did some cloning a while back (round1) and i got a little too comfortable with minimal roots showing and only 8 of the 15 survived. about 2-3 were very small and objectively should not have been attempted one will not survive due to a stoner error in leaf cutting. i've learned in this field patience is key and learning is essential. I made some mistakes, and dont plan on making again

Week four of flowering, and the plant is looking amazing! 🌱 Trichomes have really started to cover the buds, giving them a nice frosty appearance. There’s a lot of resin building up, and it’s exciting to see so many trichomes at this stage. The plant itself is still in great shape, with healthy, vibrant leaves and no signs of stress. 🌿✨ I’ve adjusted to the BioBizz week 5 feeding schedule, and it seems to be working perfectly. The plant is responding well to the nutrients, and everything looks on track for a great harvest. 🌸 I’m getting more excited as the weeks go by! Can’t wait to see how the buds will continue to fill out and develop in the next few weeks. 😁🌼

trimmed after stopping growth. the plants are doing well, removed the lower branches.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

trying something new, LIMETTA MARMALADE by JOLLY POND FARM (Cotton Candy Kush / Mimosa) x (Koffee Cake / SkyCuddle Kush F3) Bred by @landrace_bureau Hunted/Selected/S1 by Jolly Pond Farm @jollypondfarm jollypondfarmacy.com Sativa Flowering Time: 68-73 Days under 20w seedling light , on heating mat @ 78F picked the wrong damn tent on the grow log settings lol, its a coolgrows 4x4 12/31/24 two pops so far, moving into dwc buckets under around ,3 EC water just under net pots 12 DLI for now, FD6000 is set to 5 on my AC infinity as far as my take on the phenos: #1 popped vigorously and has leaflets grown since, #2 is a bit slower, popped two days later #3 was planted later, but popped quickly 1/5/25 slight rooting through on #1, probably my last top water , it looked a little thirsty, maybe 1 more tomorrow #2 and #3 will continue receiving top watering everyday until i observe the same keeping VPD at around .9 ,,, however i do need a new IR therm. 1/7/25 some slight purpling on #1 & #2 and i am sure this is because of having a bad pH pen before. everything is properly calibrated and pHed with my AC INFINITY pH pen 1/13/25 well, they continued to purple a little bit, gonna chalk it down to low temps in the tent, was using my heater in my other tent but i have reconnected it as i moved the plant i was rehabing into the 4x4 since i set it to veg DLI (30 right now.)

Week 7 begins for Glueberry OG! She's also developed a hunger for more nutrients as temps have increased, so an extra liter of food she got, midway through the week. The OG kush genetics are much more noticeable during this second grow. August 1 - added some close up pictures.

Day 57: Forgot to get pics when watering. So some pics the next day. Water/Feed day. Each plant got 1 gallon with: 5mL per gallon Alaska 5-1-1 15mL per gallon Alaska 0-10-10 7.5mL GrowMore Seaweed Extract 15mL Blackstrap Molasses Plant 2 also got 1.25mL per gallon of AGT-50 Plant 3 also got 15mL per gallon of Liquid Culture Microbes Plant 4 got both and at the same amounts. I scratched into the soil of each pot 1/2 cup of Happy Frog Fruit and Flower Day 58: Took pictures. Plants are looking good. You can really see the difference in plant 1 compared to the other 3. Very few tops really pushed their way up on plant 1. Day 59: Water/Feed day. Again I didn't get pictures on this day. Each plant got 1 gallon with: 5mL per gallon Alaska 5-1-1 15mL per gallon Alaska 0-10-10 7.5mL GrowMore Seaweed Extract 15mL Blackstrap Molasses Day 61: This time I got some pics. You can really tell that the plants are in flower. They are developing a good smell and you can see trichomes starting as well. Water/Feed day. Each plant got 1 gallon with: 5mL per gallon Alaska 5-1-1 15mL per gallon Alaska 0-10-10 7.5mL GrowMore Seaweed Extract 15mL Blackstrap Molasses

Nicely purple

Day 8 since seed touched soil. Great strain, started early and strong. Have big hopes from first look ;) Girls got tent and air movement. 240w dimmed to 30%, distance approximately 40 cm . HappyGrowing !!!

wonderfull colours and smell, plant is looking fine, i see another 2/3 weeks from now, for a full development of the buds. heavy and frequent rain occurring, didn't have to water so much, hope it get better from here to the cut. i am gonna decrease on the nutrients, to make them disappear in 10-15 days and a have a full week on just pure water. the quality of the smell is incredible, very sugar-candy like, not so citric.

Week 7

Day 54-64 (June 14th-24th) (Day 55) I got a good look at all of the plants in the dark and all of them are quite faded out except for black garlic and the blueberries. Running multiple different strains that all feed differently would be a nightmare on a larger scale! (Day 56) Everything is looking on point and happy. Plants are drinking about a liter of water every 36 hours. (Day 59) Jack Herer #1 has some of the most wild looking foxtails I’ve ever seen. Not a very desirable trait but it’s cool to grow. It’s smell is pure bliss, it’s now matured to a mango funk. I will do a more in depth look at each strain after dry. Jack #2 is starting to pop fresh nanners. I think it is from stress due to lack of nutrients and/or heat stress from where it is in the tent. Both jacks are feeding really hard I’ve noticed. If these bananas get any worse I will just harvest early. Blueberry #1 is developing miniature seeds in its calyx’s and is starting to foxtail like crazy. It almost looks like it’s reveging. Earlier in the season I pulled off an entire bud that was covered in developing seeds but I couldn’t find anymore after that. I will likely find a few bag seeds in this pheno and Jack #2. Blueberry #2 is still terpless and frostless but it’s really starting to fill into it’s structure now. It’s getting impressively dense but that all it has going for it. This one needs to go 65-70 days at least. BAOGC #1 is so beefed up and chunky I love it. The main cola will be a good 6 grams and the lowers are thick gram nugs too. I will let this one go until day 65 BAOGC #2 is much smaller but a super hard feeder. It was one of the first to start yellowing. This pheno is pretty average in my opinion. It stacks a little tighter but has small buds TWOG #1 has this strange velvety look to it’s frost, something I’ve never really seen before. Although it’s a little on the leafy side. It filled out super early and is ready to harvest now. Both are fading out with black streaks on the leaves. TWOG #2 checks every box for quality so far. This might be the perfect strain and I’m sad I didn’t get a clone of it. The only thing wrong with it is the long trichome stalks and lack of resin heads. It is also an early finisher. I will probably take both TWOGs down on the 21st. Black garlic is just mouthwatering. This plant literally looks wet with resin. It was super airy at first but slowly filled out to the point it’s one of the denser plants in the tent. Cant wait to smoke this stuff. (Day 63) Well, every plant in here is looking done except the jacks and blueberry #2. Since I’m harvesting my other tent tomorrow I might as well give everything the chop before I risk bagseeds. I’m going to give a final watering right now and harvest tomorrow. I’m going to be drying in my flower tent kept between 60-65F and 60-65% RH. I will do a full plant hang to extend the dry time for as long as possible. Guess that’s a wrap then. I will give a detailed breakdown of my errors and final thoughts on the run next week after the dry is completely done. ✌️

Questa settimana è successa una cosa bruttissima, si sono tappati i fori di scolo di un vaso, e quindi una pianta (ovviamente la piu bella) é rimasta senza ossigeno alle radici formando così marciume radicale, ho provato a fare un lavaggio di radici con acqua e acqua ossigenata al 3% e trapiantato in terra, così da somministrare una cura apposita, aspetterò 2 settimane se nn vedo ripresa ahimè la abbandonerò. Invece le altre come potete vedere dalle foto stano crescendo alla grande, 3 settimane dallo swith gia si sono formati tanti fiori, ora bisogna solo farli

woche 8 tag 50 sieht soweit ganz gut aus blüte wächst höhenwachstum verlangsamt sich deutlich einige blätte haben braune spitzen, aber alles noch im Rahmen tag 54 blüte wächst kein höhenwachstum erste fächerblätter vergilben düngung tag 55: 700ml Wasser + 4ml Mairol Blütenwunder

We’ll post for this week a few days late as started some LST and thought would leave a few days as Monday was pretty warm day and didn’t want to stress them too much because of the heat issue and training but resolved heat issues and everything in the garden looks happy again so have look roll on the next week ✌️🏻

Just a couple days to finish.. will update with dry bud pics and weights then. Stay tuned!