this week, i gave the plant more nutrients and water , I also pulled down the larger branch of the Gorilla to achieve a more even light distribution at a lower distance from the lamp.

Week 3 Flower: I started with 10ml/500ml of BioTabs Bud Booster once a week. I put another Trellis on top and continued to bend the stems. Some Buds starting to form :). It doesnt smell yet, only if u touch it. Then its quite sticky and stinky (in a good way). Still stretching a bit, but it didnt stretch as much as i thought it would (and as people told me). Week 3 Day 4: Very moist weather outside, the tent is in the sleeping room, average humidity inside the tent is 58% atm. A bit too high. Outside tent ~70% - way too high, hope its getting dryer soon. Week 3 Day 5: Conditions normalizing. average humidity now around 45%. Week 3 Day 6: Im wondering how low I should start cutting the smaller, lower Popcornbuds, any ideas? - Removed some Popcorn buds/leaves from the lower parts of the plant.

Fantastic run!!!! Lots of fun BeLeaf cultivars ROCK!!!

girls smell sweet and are stacking like right on top of one another. I had to splay her out and thin some leaves to ensure good airflow. This is the Wedding cake XL so I am starting to see what the buds are going to looks like on this one. Can't get over the fresh sweet smell.

I cut down the 2nd half of my Green Crack plant today. Did a wet trim this time. Will post the harvest report after she's dried and cured. So far the buds seem loose and airy overall. Probably stressed her out a little too much with the topping, HST and then the LED burn. I'm still pretty happy with the results so far 😃 Root sone looks more developed than the last harvest (Blue Mammoth). I guess Recharge is working 👍

Into the second week of flower and have not seen much stretch in these girls yet. All are showing pistils, I am defoliating a lot to maintain an even canopy. Girls received their first compost tea and a good top dressing of malted barley. Pistils development is continuing strong. Looking forward to some more stretching They ended their week really good, flowering is slowly getting there. Still haven’t seen much stretch from these. #2 is noticeably shorter thus far, with #1 showing the most flower development

7/29 - Week 9 of veg is starting. At this point, it is just let them grow up a few inches, and also fill out the pots some more with roots before transplanting to 5 gallon fabric pots (their final homes). I also plan on mixing a 'flower blend' soil to fill up the 5g pot around the rootball that is transplanted. This recipe for the soil is taken from MaximumYield: Enhanced fruit/flower potting soil recipe This soil recipe is designed for plants that are ready to fruit or flower. In particular, this recipe works great for ornamentals that are already in bloom and for fast-growing annuals that are entering their fruiting or flowering stage. Parenthesis indicate small changes or products I'm using. 1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss (Promix BX) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) coco coir (Mother Earth Coco Peat) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) compost (either compost or manure) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite 10 cups pumice (likely to just use perlite here) 5 cups worm castings 3 cups bat guano (high phosphorus) 1 cup fish bone meal (using regular bone meal, got Jobe's Bone Meal) 1 cup oyster shell 1/2 cup seabird guano (likely to just add as the high phosporous guano) 1/4 cup alfalfa meal 1/4 cup fish meal (Down to Earth Fish Meal) 2 tbsp. langbeinite (Down to Earth Langeinite) 1 tbsp. glacier rock dust (Azomite ordered from Amazon) 7/30 - While technically the morning of 7/31, lights haven't gone out yet, so it is still the 30th ;) It almost hurts posting pictures today, because they were really thirsty, but I honestly hadn't looked at them for a couple days. Anywho, the plants were watered with ~1.25 liters of water each, about 90 minutes before lights out. Will be interesting to post the 7/31 photos after a couple hours of lights on, and see the difference in appearance. I also mixed the soil for flowering, and it will now have a couple weeks to 'cook' and become ready for the plants. I did make a mistake and accidentally added 1 cup of fish meal instead of 1/4 cup (oops), and the alfalfa meal just smelled too good, so I added 1/2 cup instead of 1/4. Hopefully those 2 'changes' don't add too much nitrogen for flower, but I imagine it won't. I also instead of adding perlite (didn't want to buy a 4 cu ft bag when I needed at most 2.5 gallons (1/3 cu ft), so I opted to add 1 gallon of pumice. Since the coco peat and promix both have perlite in them, I didn't want too much added. There were also some worms from the compost that made it into the tote that is now storing the mix, so life has already started in the soil. 7/31 - It wasn't just after lights on, as I didn't have time to photo earlier, but this is just about 24 hours after watering, and praying/looking good. I had noticed that it looked like the fan had slipped down the pole a bit, and was causing some wind burn/clawing of the leaves yesterday, which probably attributed to poor looks, but looking better today! While I am not that versed in checking preflowers, from what I can tell, if I had to guess, CH#1 could be either (maybe slightly leaning towards female, thought I might have saw a couple hairs), and the #2 actually looked male to me. 8/4 - After getting home from work, and realizing I hadn't checked on the plants in a couple days and I knew they were due for water either yesterday or today, I saw some THIRSTY plants. They each got ~1.2L of water, and also a quick trim back. After checking preflowers again, I am afraid that both Chinook plants may end up male :(

Flushing continues...

Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 22/11/2019 - Pot feels light and dry gave her 1,5l PH 6.2 water with 0.75ml-Grow, 0.75ml-Max, 1.5ml-Bloom, 2.25ml-Heaven and 2.25ml-Acti vera from Biobizz, noticed almost no runoff this time. 27/11/2019 - Pot feels light and dry gave her 1,5l PH 6.3 water, noticed a lot of burned tips no nuts this time I guess? some runoff appeared.

She's got beautiful orange hairs very very beautiful orange pistils,and she's got a great resin production,very sticky, very powerful aroma,she looks super mature,I'm gonna give her a couple more watering and she'll be done,amazin strain to grow,beutiful flower producer. 🤤🌱💚

Germination was successful in 24 hours!

Vamos familia, actualizamos la quinta semana de floración de estas Terp & Tonic de Seedstockers. La temperatura que estuvo entre los 24-26 grados y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos. En cuanto a las plantas me están dando algo de problema con carencias que soluciono y se bloquean por exceso de iluminación, ahora ese color de una de las puntas es debido al bloqueo luminico, estiraron bien y ensancharon bastante también. Las flores se están llenando de tricomas y van hinchando, por el momento todo correcto, empezamos aportar mega pk y thor de Agrobeta. Hasta aquí todo lo de esta semana , ya quedan pocas semanas iremos viendo como maduran, buenos humos. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Welcome to the Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆 Hi everyone 🤗 She continued to grow beautifully this week. The new shoots become very thick and strong 👍. Her colors are perfect 😍 and she does exactly what she should 😅. I will definitely give her another week of growth 😄. Otherwise everything runs great👍 I wish you a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱 You can buy the Strain Wonder Pie at : https://greenhouseseeds.nl/ ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Bio Grow Feeding ( GHSC ) , Enhancer ( GHSC ) , Bio Bloom ( GHSC) ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0

I’ll be most definitely harvesting these next week! I will continue with water from now until they are ripe and ready! They are absolutely smelling of some nuttiness and dank fuel ⛽️ like stardawg smells too! The buds are starting to swell too so thinking next 7 days I’ll be ready! Next upload will be harvest hope you like buddies! I’ll be hang drying this time! As I’ll have space and a tent to do it in as before I didn’t and used the brown bag method! But I can maintain between 14c - 18c with a humidity of 42 percent! So I’ll hang dry this time! Any suggestions?? Let me know! I’ll be putting 2 fans on them for air circulation and a air vent only sucking out as it will draw air in on its own and keep the humidity lower in the tent while drying!

8 weeks finished 😵 Flushing next week and then it's harvest time !!! 😜 👉 8 plants ; all clones of a selection of plants from RQS feminized seeds 👍 Cookies Gelato #1 👍 2 x Cookies Gelato #2 (from the same motherplant) 👍 Cookies Gelato #3 👍 Wedding Gelato #1 👍 Wedding Gelato #2 👍 Wedding Gelato #3 👍 Sweet ZZ #1 2 x 600 watt HPS👉 8x Autopot fabric pots 18.9 liter 1x 200 liter watertank Dimlux controller 50/50 recycled Plagron lightmix / perlite Biovin, RQS Easy Boost GenOneELeven nuts & wellness products 😜

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

Dünge bei jedem Gießen

After germinating the seeds are transplanted into small pots with soil (see tutorial in VIDEO above). The soil is prepared with water mixed with a little bit of BIO NOVA Roots (0,5 ml/l), which aids the development of the seedling. Transplanting is very easy now, because they have grown a STRAIGHT tap-root while hanging during the SERIOUS' WAY of germination. This straight root allows for easy potting of the seeds. Simply make a little hole in the center of the soil with your pinky finger and carefully place the germinated seed with the white root pointing DOWNWARDS into the hole. Best is to lay it onto one side-wall of the hole with the seed shell right at the surface. Then I push the other side inwards and enclose the whole root with soil. At the end only the top of the seed-shell peeks out of the soil. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to plant the seeds NOT TO DEEP into the soil. The seedling only needs extra strength to work itself upwards thru the soil and you run the risk of the soil drying out and the seed dying off. When you PLANT THE SEED VERY SHALLOW into the soil (=with the top of the seed-shell still peeking out) your seedling can grow out right away and you have a small plant already 24 hours after putting the seed into the soil. The small seedling sometimes still has the seed-shell on its 'head', it normally falls off by itself, but sometimes you have to carefully help and take it off with your finger nails. Be careful to NOT clip of the seedling accidentally when you do this! The seed-shall has an inner lining, which feeds the small seedling when it germinates. This inner lining sometimes gets tangled around the stem of the small seedling after the shell has fallen off. This little skin MUST be taken off the stem right away! Once it dries up, it gets hard and can strangulate the seedling around the stem. In order to avoid this, the skin must be taken off as soon as possible! I show it in the pics above and also made a video about taking off the inner lining of the seed.

experiment explanation see week1 This week both different living soil experiments Tropicana No2 and No3 did not grow anymore...only the flowers got a bit bigger...especially No3