She’s flourishing and flowering

My 2 permanent marker plants they are loving the light being turned up they are praying constantly there internodes are so close together they have not stretched out very far yet. I'm thinking they are going to be on the short end but who knows some plants do complete opposite when they hit the flower strech. I still have not gotten the nutrients down for the one plant I'm thinking when I flip to flower it will it will turn around nicely I love the shaoe and look of it's leaves. The day has come and it's time to flip these ladies to flower. I was planning on letting them go untill Friday and let the smaller ones grow just a bit more but they will be fine. I have the eternity cup contest in mind and I'm thinking timing so I need to get these lady done and out my tent lol. This past week I turned the light up alot getting them ready to flower they have grown a bunch inhavendone lst maybe 5 it 6 times on the branchs and they arw nit bendy anymore that will help durring flower.

d.50 a few spots appeared on the leafs. gave a 10 ml dose of bio p k and waiting a week before giving a dose of orgatrex and bactrex edit: d.50 i also gave 0.5 ml of calmag from Biobizz edit d.53 will i be giving her the orgatrex and bactrex treatment ✌️🌞 d.53 she got 20 ml orgatrex, 1g of bactrex and 0.5 ml of biobizz calmag d.54 added scrog and did lst with clips to even out the height and space… still need to adjust it.

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Hi Grower! Day 114 Complete Day 52 Flower My absoulty new love comes into last days!! I give only Water now follow me on Instagram for the best Shoots of all my Strains: bud_spencer_of_herbs Grown under Spiderfarmer SF-1000 When you want to grow with the same professional Equipment then Checkout this Link https://www.spider-farmer.com/?ref=budspencer 
 Discount Code: Budspencer420

Always rock hard buds💥 Sticky glue👀 The smell is divine & refreshing : imagine a walk in a pine Forest in Summer with hint of lemon🤤🍋🌲 Moon safari effect

No complaints.. Only hard part about growing 4 different strains in one tent is finding that sweet spot with temp and humidity to keep them all perky lookin and happy. I find on water days bring it down to 45% humidity and dryer days I bring it up to 58%, seems to keep all them happy and up. Temp steady 88 day and 70’s at night they love it. Fim’ed the 3 twice and the little gelato just once. Gonna switch to flower in one more week. No crazy nutrients schedules just Mantis every other day and 15ml Holganix once every two weeks. As far as light this BlackDog just keepin them low and bushy. I moved it up quite a bit to maybe let them grow up a little more cause they aren’t begging for any, I want them too at least a little. Insanely awesome light for small grow areas you have to control height.

Vamos familia, actualizamos la novena semana de floración de estas Runtz Punch de Herbies. La temperatura que estuvo entre los 22-24 grados y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos. Este armario se contaminó las últimas semanas de trips, tengo que parar un poco para desinfectar todo bien. Las flores acaban madurando bien y se llenaron de tricomas, por el momento todo correcto, os dejé también alguna novedad y un cambio en la sala, agradecer al equipo de Mars hydro por el nuevo TSW2000. (los últimos 5 años cultive solo con los leds de esta marca). Os comento que ya les doy machete estos días. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Noticed these little ones where hurting a bit and needed some more feed. The one week the runoff was quite high but the ec going in was not. guess that has been fixed, after feeding them they started to green up more and look a bit more healthy. went from a 0.6 to a 1.2 ec in feed ppm scale is 500. the lightly purple tinted plant has the most height out of all three and is on the far right, the darkest purple is the shortest on the far left and the green one is only a bit taller located in the middle. Other then underfeeding they seem to be doing quite well, will keep and eye on them and monitor for thrips and aphids. little fuckers where spotted on a Ganja farmer plant just a few feet down. Also uploaded some of the little critters in the garden pollinating my things and eating pests.

Evening ladies and genitals, this week is amazingly better than the last few weeks. Reasons are: 1. i upgraded the fan in my grow tent. Its tall and oscillates. 2. I’ve figured out how to get the vapor from the humidifier directly into the tent as you can see in the video. As the extraction fan is running 24/7 it pulls in the air from the only open air intake hole pulling in the vapor. 3. I repotted from the teeny tiny pots into 2 litre pots with Sohum Living Soil. So I've upgraded the soil type. For a beginner like me this releases a lot of internal pressure from worrying about the nutrient deficiencies. With all that said the ladies have responded great. I’ve started to weigh each pot to guage how much water is being evaporated so i dont overwater. Some issues remain on the leaves from my previous overwatering but I’ve learnt that the damaged leaves will stay damaged. You can see the tips are hella bent in 1 pic at the ends. Hopefully it will be OK for the new leaves at least. I cut off damaged leaves on 2 of the girls but left the others. I want to see what happens when they are left to grow naturally and mindful of the fact that if defoliating at not the right intervals will stunt their growth . I will do LST but at the moment i cant cause they're not really big enough yet. Till next time, peace out. 420 right around the corner!

Transfer to 3-gallon pot

Growth has really begun to take off! I've been making tweaks to my setup. Got nervous I was getting some light through the bucket so I covered it in aluminum foil to block out the light for a few days while I was getting a lid painted and ready. Painted with two coats black to block any light and then 3 coats of white for reflectivity of light and heat. I have been reading various methods and was torn on whether to top it since it is an autoflower or just let it go. Pulled the trigger and went forward with topping. The growth has been good and she's looking super happy! Any issues related to pH and nutrient deficiencies seem to have resolved themselves.

2º week crystal 1º week euphoria (she will be in veg period until dicember)

Another quiet week, plants are slowly loosing lower shaded leaves as expected, luckily they aren’t growing any taller anymore. Will be surprised if no foxtails appear as the par is 1300-1400 around some of the taller colas. My lights in total are using 810w, as I have had to dim the light at the front down by 30% a couple weeks ago. DWC really is a breeze during flowering, barely any work to do, kinda miss having a reason to go in there for anything other than observing 😊 Happy growing all ✌️

I have made some clean up down the plant ,I cant belive its a clone so big 🤗

ITTY-BITTY..! The strain Royal Dwarf from RQS lives up to its name! She's a genetic mixture of Skunk + Ruderalis And is looking to be a very powerful lil Autoflower. Short. At only 15 inches tall and yet growing 30 nuggets so far! She (Itty-Bitty) is one of the plants I've selected to enter into the 2024 Autoflower Cannibus Cup which is taking place in Las Angeles next year! Wish me luck you guys!!!

Vegged for a few weeks will flower soon.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

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