Привет друзья. Моей растихе сегодня 60 дней. Начал применять LST технику на 19 дне и продалжаю применять её через день, а 18 августа добавил ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ делаю каждые 3,4 дня С 20.08 LST технику делаю каждые 4.6 дней На сегодняшний день влажность 60% 15 дней назад заметил высокий Ph 7.9 С 48 дня Ph не ниже 5.8 На сегодняшний день Ph 6.0 Начал кормить с 60 дня Canna Terra Vega PPM 550 Погладитель влажности, выполняет свои функции. Посмотрю на динамику. Всем мира и добра! https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

August 18, Day 28. Had to flush on Friday due to nutrient lockout. There were purple stems which caught my attention to a possible nutrient deficiency. Coupled by the dark green older fan leaves and bright green of new growth, my Apera TDS meter confirmed nutrient lockout. Kaboom was flushed a total of 4 times Friday night, then foliar fed at 25% strength the next morning. She was given 1.1 liters of pHd water since the top inch was already dry despite flushing the night before. I am taking her thirst to mean she is recovering well. I plan on resuming the GH least aggressive feed schedule tomorrow and will begin feeding with every watering. Now that she's on the mend from the nutrient lockout I can tell she's thirstier than what she used to be, I'm taking that to mean she's hanging in there. Friends, growmies, cousins, comrades, colleagues and cultivars. Updates last week were minimal because this plant mama came down with COVID. Flushing a plant during COVID fever is no joke. Stay well and healthy everyone. August 19, Day 29. Fed at least aggressive strength today until 25% runoff. Included a new supplement to the nutrient line up, silica. Today is the first time I use it so I went easy and used the weakest dose. Plant has 5 main sites so far, yahoozie. To top a second time? No se todavia, deja lo pienso jajaja August 21, Day 31.Topped one more time, clipped the tallest point to give the others time to catch up. I know I will need to defoliate a tiny bit, soon, but I'm a bit scared to remove either too much or a mega vital leaf. I'll watch videos about it and aim for next week. I sprayed the top inch with pH'd water and will feed and water tomorrow morning. August 22, Day 32. Fed and watered, no recharge since I used it on Day 29. As I repositioned the kabob sticks, I noticed a couple of milestones - she is in the very beginning stages of forming pistils and she is beginning to smell. I plan on keeping her in veg for at least 2 more weeks, hopefully this isn't super ambitious for a plant named Kaboom lol 😂 August 24, Day 34. I checked on Kaboom and found that the top inch was totally dry so I fed and watered her. I used everything except recharge, but will use it at next feeding since I'm aiming for 10 days in between applications. I think Kaboom is looking fabulous

will be harvesting soon

Overall, the Girls are doing great. #2 is still showing some nitrogen excess, but is doing well. I’ve adjusted her feeding specifically in hopes to correct. #1 is not showing the same issue, and is motoring along. Both are stacking nicely, and are bringing on some smell now, and are sticky to the touch. I estimate about 3 weeks more, but who really knows with Autoflowers? Happy Gardening 🇨🇦❤️🌱😎💨

Ladies still drink a lot of water, 3,4 L every 48 hours. Main cola flowers are getting big, side colas less but still 2 weeks to go so hopefully they will continue. The lady in the front, plant and buds have another aspect then the other 2. All of them are cherry cola. Also had some issues with her during veg phase and she began flowering earlier.

Last watering, mostly cloudy, some amber. nutrients mostly depleted. harvest in a few days when soil is dry. 45%RH, 70F.

Harvested 445g dry bud from 300w led light. I consider it a successful grow.

****DIVINE SEEDS ***** *****OPIUM***** Sponsored grow ***DIVINE SEEDS ***** Week 11 6/16-23 Opium Loves the outside. She is tall and lanky, towering over the other outside girls: Fractal, Lemon Cake and Drizzle. All are showing yellowing leaves so everyone is now getting nutrients with feedings. I saw a Japanese beetle on my Lemon Cake and some small holes in the leaves so I added 1/2 tsp neem to the feed solution 6/12. Also started using fish & kelp. I'm still watering 1 gal per plant when I feed 2x/week. With the heat and humidity, I water daily but do not feed daily. Nutrients: TPS1 15ml/gal @4 gal =60ml Signal 1.5 ml Cal mag 10ml @4 gal Recharge ½ tsp/gal =10ml Kelp & fish GS plant foods 1/4c /gal @ 4 gal =1c Neem ½ tsp (for Japanses beetles)  Ph5.7  PPM 1414  Solution Temp 85  Outside temp 92f 6/19 Opium had a Spa day. Hair cut. All large umbrella fans were removed. Since she is in flower, she didnt need excess vegetation. This defoliation reveals true sativa form. There are 6-8inch stretches between nodes. I added a 6 ft support pole since we've had thunderstorms with high winds. I didn't want her majestic crown to snap off. I water daily and feed 2x per week now. *****OPIUM*****

Day 35 of flower

This has been a dream to grow the only reason I marked it as neutral and not easy because of it being such a flowery bub.So you just had to keep an eye on the humidity apart from that she stood up to everything even when I was starving her from Calmag 😂🤷 Can't wait to be back with the smoke report

I'm going away for 30 days about a week into this grow. I'm going to automate weeks 1 through 5 by using the Blumat watering system along with the automated fan from AC Infinity. Hopefully, these will keep things going while I'm gone. I've never used the Blumat products before and I'm excited to see their potential. If I succeed, I'll return to happy 5-week old plants. If not, I'll have to start a new grow...which is what I was going to do anyway. I have nothing to lose but a couple of seeds. Let's get this automated grow started. Day 1 - I placed the seeds directly in a fist-sized clump of Coast of Maine Seed Starter soil that was then placed in a 3-gallon pot full of Coast of Maine Stonington Blend. This will ensure the seedling doesn't get exposed to the nutrient-rich soil too soon. I set the light 2 feet above the top of the pots so they have room to grow into the 18" to 12" range. I also set the light strength to 60% during germination. The temperature in the tent remained 75 degrees and humidity was 70%. I also covered the soil over the germinating seeds with mason jars to act as humidity domes. Day 4 - Both pots sprouted this morning. I immediately removed the mason jar humidity domes. I also increased the light to 70% strength and installed the Blumat watering system to help me keep things growing while I'm gone.

Like the other strain, I believe all three autos will be coming down at about the same time.My dad pointed out all their pistons, turned amber, and we normally go based off of that.And the flower size and the amount of water that they are drinking. Typically, a plant will drink less water in the last two weeks of life.Letting you know that it's starting to die. This was the auto that was just going to keep going.And keep making white hairs without stop.So we're gonna harvest now. Hopefully, this plant would be ready to sample when I return My dad sent me a video showing that the plant is getting so heavy that it can't support itself anymore.Normally, it would be supported by little plastic triangles. Because I started that plant, all I did was do one or two men and let them perform

Con estas plantas iniciamos un pequeño invernadero donde solo les daremos sol para lograr un sun growing

30 dias - dia 24.12.2023

Grow Diaries Report: A Challenging Week 🌱✈️ Week 6 – Plant Update This week brought a mix of growth and setbacks. While the plant continued to thrive with her characteristic stretch and bushiness, there were a couple of hiccups to navigate—one caused by me and the other by circumstance. Challenges This Week Limited LST: Unfortunately, I accidentally half-snapped a branch during training. While the branch is still attached and seems to be recovering, it limited my ability to continue LST effectively this week. No Photos: I was on vacation during most of the week, so I wasn’t able to document her progress with pictures this time around. Progress Despite Setbacks Despite these challenges, she’s looking healthy and continues to grow vigorously. The snapped branch has been gently supported, and I’ll be keeping a close eye on its recovery. What’s Next? Allow the damaged branch to heal naturally—no more training on it for now. Resume LST cautiously next week to manage her height and improve the canopy structure. Prepare to monitor her closely as I settle back in and ensure she hasn’t faced any additional issues during my absence. Conclusion This week had its ups and downs, but overall, she’s pushing through like a champ. Hoping for smoother sailing next week as I’m back to give her the attention she deserves! 🌿 If anyone has tips for dealing with a partially snapped branch, feel free to share below! 😊

OK, im doing an update now becouse my breakup cake is going tranny!!(hermie) I already have noiticed she was not growing as strong .. but u can blame that on anything , especially when growing outdoor.. but this morning i saw that she was g(r)oing 'bananas'!😢 I have put her aside from the rest (in the back of garden) but think gonna have to terminate her asap!..(and i will, right after this post👍) The weed she will give will be filled with seeds and those seeds will be hermies too, so wothless.. and if i dont throw her away quick she can infect the rest. So goodbye breakup cake..😢 who wants to eat a cake when they are breaking up anyway..😒 (just hiding my pain with lame humour 😳) happy growing for all ✊

Ab den 13:11 ab zum trocknen. Da freue ich mich

Pretty resistant to wpm but still susceptible. I'd like to breed in more resistance but that may lower cbd content. So we will see what she taste like and go from there and