June 7th: We had a Thunderstorm roll through our neighborhood yesterday afternoon, with forty mph gusts and it almost knocked over a few plants, managed to grab what we had and prop up the stems for support. Hoping they weren't too stressed after it all!

2/28 - she got a feeding and I removed the shoots starting at each bottom node on every top. 6.0ph 3/3 - I took off the leaves that were at the nodes where I removed the shoots earlier this week. Now onto gaining height. Looking tight! 3/5 - Flush feeding

Flowering day 15 since time change to 12 / 12 h Hey guys :-) This week the ladies developed beautifully 👍. The stretch has started very strongly :-) . Watering was done twice this week with 1.2 l (see table above for nutrients). The heating mat does exactly what it is supposed to do, you can see that the ladies are doing perfectly again 😃. Fresh osmosis water was mixed with tap water in a 100 liter tank so that I would have enough stale water for the coming week 👍. Otherwise everything was cleaned and checked. During the check, I noticed that after spraying neem oil 3 times, there were still a few damn trips to see. I have ordered nematodes for leaf and substrate against tripse. Then they should finally be gone again 🙏🏻 have fun and stay healthy 💚 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : Clearwater Seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany

Día 44 (15/07) Wow! No hay shock de trasplante! 😍💥😁 Todas las ramas se han estirado hacia arriba tras el ajuste de LST y se están formando nuevos nodos rápidamente Esta combinación de nutrientes de Lurpe + substrato de PRO-MIX HP es una maravilla 😍 Día 45 (16/07) Ayer tuvimos ola de calor (37 ºC) y han aguantado muy bien! A última hora de la tarde (cuando ya no había sol directo) les apliqué H2O en spray foliarmente para refrescar los estomas Hoy parece que vuelven las temperaturas estándar para esta época del año: 29 - 30 ºC en las horas centrales del día Riego con 1 litro de H20 pH 6,5 Día 46 (17/07) Pequeños ajustes de LST Hay algunas ramas inferiores que no se han formado / estirado mucho Lo más probable es que haga una buena limpieza este domingo, 7 días después del trasplante, para dejar solo los brotes por encima del 4º nudo Día 47 (18/07) Riego con 0,5 litro de H20 pH 6,5 Este domingo (día 50) haré limpieza de partes bajas y tal vez también de nuevo topping en las 4-6 ramas principales 😁 Día 48 (19/07) Día de muchísimo calor con 37 ºC. A ver como lo llevan! Riego con 0,5 litro de H20 pH 6,5 Día 49 (20/07) Para ayudarles a llevar mejor el calor de las horas centrales del día, coloca una malla de sombreo (70%) sobre el invernadero Lo cierto es que se nota que baja mucho la temperatura debajo de la malla! Van a estar más fresquitas! 😍 Riego con 0,5 litro de H20 pH 6,5 Día 50 (21/07) Training session! Hago limpieza del tercio inferior de la planta, de todas las ramas y nudos que no superan la línea del dosel marcada por el 4º nudo (1er topping) También hago topping (2º) a todas las ramas principales La idea es tener 12 ó 14 colas principales para que no se hagan muy altas De paso saco unos cuantos clones de las ramas inferiores eliminadas 😁💥 Para superar el estrés, hago las siguientes aplicaciones y riego: - Riego con 1 Litro de Té Vegetativo de Lurpe Solutions. Preparación: 24 horas con bomba de aire (oxigenación) con ingredientes: Green Sunrise 8 ml/L + Insect Frass 16 ml/L + Hummus Lombriz 8 ml/L + Melaza 1 ml/L + Kelp Hidrolizado 0,25 g/L - Aplicación foliar Kelp hidrolizado de Lurpe Solutions a 0,25 ml/l 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Ich bin von den BZ wirklich begeistert, toller Duft, die Blätter werden ganz langsam gelb und die Buds glitzern in Sonnenschein. Laut Hersteller braucht die Dame noch ca. zwei Wochen, Ich bin gespannt ob ich noch vor meinem Urlaub ernten kann. An Tag 73 habe ich im Headbud vereinzelt bernsteinfarbene Trichome entdeckt. Zeit für die Ernte?

Everything is on schedule, I saw pistils within 4 days of 12/12 on both. Not a surprise because they’re feminized seeds, but there’s always a chance. Does anyone scrog with regular seed? I can’t imagine that being a good idea. Still tucking from now through to next week. I’d say the scrog is at 90% full. I could have vegged one more week I bet. This plant isn’t a huge “stretcher” and I knew that. The scrog is now “floating” above the ground on the plants. None of the legs touch the ground. Nbd just interesting. No complaints, issues, problem. Touch wood. I’ll check in next week.

@1.5 kPa Partially harvested, waiting a week or mby 2 for the rest to ripen a bit more.

Now 48h in the darkroom

Que pasa familia, vamos con la séptima y última semana de floración de estas Gorilla cookies Auto de FastBuds. Por el momento todo va bien tienen buen color, van madurando esas flores. Llevan solo agua toda la semana. Por supuesto el ph se mide en cada riego y se mantiene en 6.2 y riego en intervalos de 48h. La temperatura está entorno al 22/24 grados y la humedad anda sobre el 50%. La verdad para ser autos es que me han hasta sorprendido , buena estructura, resistentes , fáciles, huelen fuerte y están llenas de resina. Qué más puedo pedir? Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Woche 9 Sie wird weiter von innen möglichst Blattfrei gehalten um eine gute Durchlüftung zu gewährleisten. Solange gesamte kommt die Blüte richtig in Gang. Tag 58. Ganz schön durstig die Gute. Heute gab's 4l und trotzdem fast kein Drain. Müssen wohl die Wassermenge erhöhen. Tag 61 Wir haben sie nochmal etwas auseinandergezogen. So breit gezogen, braucht sie das Zelt fast für sich allein. Morgen wird sie sich nach oben gestreckt haben, dann passt es wieder.

I had to speed it up. but it looks good…

Die Tripse sind verschwunden aber ich habe die Pflanzen strapaziert die letzten 2/3 Wochen erholen und nichts mehr tun außer buds zu dicken. Ich habe es kühl und feucht gehalten und mit Gegenmitteln alles organisch bzw nicht schädlich oder keine Chemie aber dennoch ist es nichts für mich denke das nächste Mal direkt weg den die Arbeit ist zuviel vor allem wenn's wie bei mir dann immer auch zusätzlich juckt dennoch R.I.P Tripse 😅😅😅

Se han estirado bastante por tema calor pero bueno pinta bien hay una de ellas que se a quedado algo atascada

Hello Diary, Apollo F1 has completed its second week of vegetation and so far it is developing nice and fast without any problems. I only water them every 4-5 days and watch them develop beautifully. Apollo F1 grew a little less than 10 cm in a week, which is great, and they started showing the first signs of flower formation. It will be much more visible next week. As I mentioned, watering is not that frequent, every 4 days she gets about 2 liters of water, like her two roommates. This time I added Bigger Flowers from the Bio Flowering Booster palette. In my opinion, the conditions on the Farm are good, the humidity is still around 50% and the temperature is around 25 degrees. A brief overview of the week. 08/05/2023 - Day 9. Watering. I prepared about 6 liters of water, lowered the pH to 6.0 and added Bigger Flowers. I watered all three plants evenly with that amount. 12/05/2023 - Day 13. Watering. This time I didn't add Bigger Flowers, I just regulated the p.H. value. 13/05/2023 - Day 14. Photographing and height measurement. Officially the end of the second week of vegetation. Apollo F1 - 17 cm That's all for this week, thank you all for your support and see you soon.

Day 45 - 26/11 - She is looking very good, leaves a perky and buds are growing. Day 47 - 28/11 - The trichome production is really starting nicely, I can start smelling her. Day 49 - 30/11 - She was top dressed with fresh vermicast and a few teaspoon of a top dress mix (at the bottom), all of that was mulched with a layer of erograstus grass. --------- Top dress mix : Equal parts Alfalfa meal, Rock dust, Kelp meal, Insect frass.

Last week of pre flower girls are doing great can’t believe they’re clones

At the start of week 4 she both went into flowering and grew 30 cm... The hight growth has slowed down towards the end of this week... but the is producing nice hairs... everything nice all on water... hope she keeps on like this... fingers crossed👍

This week I didn’t make any structural changes and just let the plant develop naturally. I’ve now introduced Green Sensation and removed Power Buds from the feeding schedule. Also, I forgot to mention that last week I set the LED to 100%, and it’s currently running at around 800 PPFD. Everything is progressing well so far, now it’s just about maintaining stability and letting the plant focus on flower development 🌸💪

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).