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@TerpToad
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Welcome to the Dutch Passion Growing Competition 2025! I choose Banana Blaze Auto for competing in this contest. The seeds were given to me by Dutch Passion for free. Thanks! These are my first indoor-grown autoflowers. I am looking forward to fast growth and big headbuds, lets see how the Banana Blaze likes the AutoPots! You will see that the seeds werent put directly in the center of the pots. I am planning on applying LST during the grow and gave myself some space to work with before hand. Stay tuned :) Update day 4: a small miracle happened - all seeds popped up on the same day! And by all I truly mean all, not only the three Banana Blaze Auto, but my two additional plants aswell! With all my autos perfectly synchronized, I can now start on a good note into these grows. Soon all plants exept the Banana Blaze sisters will move outdoors.
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@kizdog
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Honestly not much to say about the dry and trim, which is definitely a good thing. 12 days hanging in the tent, and the plants were ready to trim. me & the Mrs. absolutely sailed through it. Stores like a dream, and smokes the same. Not a crazy amount of flavour, but the aroma that it has is lime and cream. And the taste is more earthy and spicy. Loving and savouring every bit of it. Sorry I’m very late with this, but I’ve been busy getting my next plants started! You should see them come up soon, as I’m quite behind in my posting. I’m very happy! 🤟💚
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I was selected to test some of Fastbuds new genetics. Seeds germinated in 48hrs and 6 days later it broke ground and hasent slowed down. This grow is in my 4x4ft grow space located in an uninsulated shed. Each plant has a dedicated 150-200w LED from Viparspectra or Mars. Winter Temps in my area spike to -15C or more in Jan and Feb, so this will be an interesting and challenging grow. The grow room is 20-30C above ambient temperature, so there is a little manual and auto manipulation of grow Temps. See my video Lights 50-75%, 30 inches, 75-120w per plant Soil temp: 21-25C Light cycle: 5:1 Air temp: 18-27C
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Week 3 has come and gone and it was a sight to see!! All the pistills came in nice and strong. I have to get in there and defoliate every couple a days a bit. This will be the last week of defoliation. Once I can see the main bud sights I will do my final trim. Started reducing the Nitrogen as the stretch faze comes to an end and up the bloom ferts. I cant raise my light much more so I hope they stop stretching this week. Im excited to see the flowers grow into these pistills and watcch the calayx swell.
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@TTerpz
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Buds starting to form!!!! Day 2 of week 8 4/3/25 UPDATE: Flushed with Fox farm sledgehammer ph’d at 6.8 Soils were low at 5.8 4/5/25 update: fed with nutes 4/7/25: watered with plain water ph’d at 6.5 4/8/25: did a slight heavy defoliation to get ready for week 9!
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Buds keep fattening up more and more, this should be the amazing phenomenon Carl Linneus talked about Flowers are getting enormous, gross, monster buds, everyone told me i had not enough light, not enough air flow, not enough badabee badaba but honestly i see them right, beautiful and healthy Please, SUGGEST ME anything you can think about and ill try to improve it
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@Grilla
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I’m not 100% done collecting all the data. By the smell of it, this plant will be one of the dankest plants I’ve ever grown. More to come. Tuesday, September 5 I have the nugs in jars right now. Hopefully I didn’t let it dry too much. Right now the humidity is at around 52% but I think if I move the jar around a bit I can them to sweat a bit more.
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Richtig fett 🤩 Diese Woche noch Vollgas, ab nächster Woche wird der EC runter gefahren um Verbrennungen zu verhindern und die Natürliche Farbgebung zu stärken. Die Pflanze sieht sehr vital aus und die Blütenbildung und vorallem der Geruch sind umwerfend. Jetzt werde ich noch ein letztes mal Blätter entfernen um der Fettung und Reifung der Blüten das beste Milieu zu bieten. Die Luftfeuchtigkeit ist etwas niedrig aber das ist schon ok, die Pflanze verträgt das scheinbar sehr gut. Demnach habe ich keine Angst, das hier Schimmel entsteht. Frohes growen :)
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Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. Not particularly recommended, but adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise understanding and management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Normally, a medium only holds 10-30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal ta part boosts this to 50% as it triggers the "ripen" signal, but you don't want to keep ammoniacal above 30% for more than 7-10 days if you can help it. Its a trigger mechanism no more. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.
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@MG2009
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All looking healthy beside some insect damage it is acceptable in organics gardens the good bugs keep them in check, healthy soil food web and all😎 To all a good week happy growing😎 07/06/2018 Mid week update #1 is 32.75" tall a as averaged not gonna measure each top. Started doing stem rubs for smell,so I'll include that to see if it relates to the end product tastes,smell. Forgot to rub #1 update latter. run On with #2 34. 5 orangie,lite minty. #3 26.25 straight minty chlorophyll. #4 is less stinkt .... #5 18.25 and she is Stinky brought her into it because I had extra and smells crazy stinky when I walked by it. Which is why I decided to do stem rubs.
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On top of yellowing leaf problem. Adding some nutrients subtracting some nutrients. Little of leaf defoliation.
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📆 Semana 3 La planta entra en plena floración temprana y el stretch alcanza su punto más fuerte, llegando ya a los 80 cm. Las ramas laterales se han desarrollado muy bien y los primeros cogollos comienzan a formarse en todas las puntas. Aparecen abundantes pistilos blancos y los primeros tricomas empiezan a ser visibles, señal de que la producción de resina ya ha comenzado. El consumo de agua y nutrientes sigue aumentando, acompañando el fuerte crecimiento de la planta. El perro se ha llevado algunas hojas bajas durante la semana, aunque esto no ha afectado al vigor general y la planta continúa desarrollándose con fuerza. ⚡ EC: 1.3 – 1.4 💧 pH: 6.3 🌡️ Agua: 18–22°C 🌫️ Humedad: 45–60% ☀️ Luz: Sol directo de junio 🌡️ Temp ambiente: 22–30°C 📏 Altura: 80 cm 🔥 Nota: La estructura final ya empieza a definirse y las flores se multiplican en todas las ramas. Los primeros tricomas y la formación de cogollos indican que la planta entra en una fase cada vez más productiva. Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!
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Update of Goofiez 2 of compound genetics!! On RDWC it’s literally super fast grow !! We are doing a pheno hunting of 12 plants and we seed 4 of them that are the best at the moment
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Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Umstände.
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@Hawkbo
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They're settling in to the pots nicely and the flower tent is about to be cleared out. Need to do some work around the tent before I can move them should be a week or 2.
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Gente,sono arrivato alla 6 settimana di fioritura,per fortuna sto riuscendo a debellare sto cazzo di ragnetto rosso...e tutti i fiorellini maschi che stavano spuntando...al momento sembra che non stiano più facendo sviluppare,ne nannars ne fiori completi di Maschio......il che è buonissimo 😋...spero riuscire a portare a termine bene la mia terapia, altrimenti mi ritroverò (ma di molto nellaCACCONA...MERDA!!!)..MA no! sono positivo e quasi sicuro che sarà buonissima 😋
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Some larger fan leaves especially mids got a little edge burn. I think because of a little too much dry back.