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The Afghan #1 feminised has been defoliated and opened up a bit more. The lady is doing considerably well displaying her new set of pistols looking like puffballs. She’s drinking twice the volume of waShe has 7 fingered leaves and has grown about 7cm this week. After the 16 days of flowering a give me lady a flush of pure water phd 6.0. She has no burnt tips and stands at 72cm tall.
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@Sup3rNov4
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The girls have been switched to flower due to room but the process looks fantastic so far well apart from lil timmy🤦‍♂️
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@Lazuli
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Trichomes turn milky i think 2 more weeks
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@Ferenc
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Day 80, 22nd of October 2020: 3rd week of flowering! Happiness she needs a lot of boost hard to keep up. She loves fertilization too much..... I mean before always craving for nitrogen now qould need more potassium and phosphorus hard to keep up. I also detect deficiency based on the leaves getting lighter and brown spots but I do feed her as much as I can really. This week i have relised the first nice trichomes started "sitting" on the leaves as well and the pistils coming out nicely pre flowers forming. Let's go.
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At the end of week 4, I've switched the lights to 12/12 and separated the plants, leaving one of them under 150w lamp. Also started to bend the main stem of Kabul Express. I'll probably make a timelapse of one/both of them, both girls grow pretty fast, and Kabul seem to be much bigger and elongate more.
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@Theia
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I am not sure what the deal is with the Chibans. They look mutant to me maybe due to pollination. There is so much crystal forming up on them and they still look beautiful. Plant 1 is huge with big colas that are fragrant and very very sticky to the touch. Plant 2 looks the most normal as far as bud structure to me. She has not got the same flattened of tops but instead are more cone like . Also very very crystal heavy Clones 1 and 2 look like monsters to me. Their buds are bulbous and fat with a very flat round top and quite a bit larger then golf balls! I have never seen bud look like this but then I have never had pollination issues and watched the plants quite as much as I am at the moment. We will keep going with them and see what we get. I hope for some smokable bud and also some Sherbert banana seeds maybe🤪👍👍. Thanks for looking. Stay safe. Grow well.🌱🌱
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💩Holy Crap Growmies , we are outdoors and in the Ground and there Doing Great💩 👉It's been another full week 35 days from seed and she's doing great , very nice Growth, considering shes been up against the wind and rain 👈 No problems 😊 so far so good 👍And she's now in full on flowering 😁👈 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈 👉NutriNPK NUTRIENTS USED FOR FEEDING 👈rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉www.nutrinpk.com right now get 10% off using SPRING2022 as the coupon code👈
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another resin monster from seedstockers, with a very special scent, full of flavors! grinded it smelled like peppermint, and vaped it has a great sweet creamy taste!
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Hola a todos! Esta semana he regado solo con top candy 2ml x litro de agua. Esta misma semana que comienza mañana, empezare a lavar raices, la planta tiene un aroma dulce, que aun no sé describir😅. Muchos tricomas están lechoso aunque hay algunos transparentes, pero la idea es hacer un lavado de raices progresivo. En 2 o 3 veces.
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553
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@Raz666
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dear beautiful old Lady... ... your time has come...
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@Jimponic
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WEEK 5 FLOWERING COMIN ON SLOWLY
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#43 clones are maturing too fast I feel. Especially that a mother is ripening normally. I would guess it’s because of poor rooting. It’s the only difference. I keep runoff at around 3 max. Around week 5 the runoff ph started to drop below 6. Even towards 5.5. Both in rockwool and coco.
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I found seed foeming and bananas so i decided to cut my losses before it got out of hand im just glad they got to where the are now first time grow first time using dwc and i fucked this shit up for a first timer you beauty
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This was a real fun strain !! Definitely do it over and over again ! Thank you Fastbuds!! I’m not sure of the weight yet ,I have them hanging low an slow for 12- 14 days to try then will be trim , cure , the fun stuff!✌️Peace, love, and Positive Vibes to y’all cheers 🔥😤💨💨💨💨🤙 I will be letting know the final weight soon as it’s done drying!
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Somehow I counted weeks in a silly way, so I thought this was week 8 but it's still week 7. LoL. Plant is doing great anyway, She's big, exceeding 70 cm diameter, With so many colas at canopy level I expect her to yeld very big fo an Autoflowering strain, The training succesfully shaped her resulting in 10 branch reaching the top canopoy level. To me the key to a good training is timing, much more than continuous adjustment. This plant was bent just one time on main stem and one another time little later the branches. We had rainy days so I used a dehumidifier for a day or two, now it's dry again outside so no need for it anymore. She's still thirsty like a bitch as she drinks 5 liters of water every two day. Maybe I'll make a drip sistem for my next grow, watering has been boring lately. I'm not giving her anything to the end now, she's doing fine like this. The humus coupled with slow release fertilizer is doing a great job. She has some nitrogen excess to me, but she's the only plant to show it in a batch of 6. The issue seems very small to me anyway. Day 48 checked trichomes, some is turning milky already, can't wait for the buds to ripen :) Ciao Bottanico
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Day 15: Do-Si-Dos Auto is looking strong. First big feed: 4ml FloraMicro, 6ml FloraGro, 3ml FloraBloom, 2ml CALiMAgic, 1ml RapidStart, 1ml Floralicious Plus and 2.5ml Armor Si. RO water PH 6.0 Temp: 75º RH: 63% PPFD: 450 VPD: .53 kPa Day 16: Do-Si-Dos Auto ahead of the pack. She looks the healthiest in the tent so far. Time to LST that little girl, hopefully she will respond nicely. No water no feed. Temp: 76º RH: 61% PPFD: 475 AVG VPD: .46 kPa Day 17: She looks real good. Taking the LST well. Keep growing. Will feed tomorrow. Temp 77º RH: 55 % PPFD: 500 AVG VPD: .6kPa Day 18: Moved up and turned up the lights. Fed 250ml of 4ml FloraMicro, 6ml FloraGro, 3ml FloraBloom, 1ml RapidStart, 2.5ml ArmorSi, 2ml CALiMAGic and 1ml Floralicious in RO water PH 6.2 PPM: 750 Solution Temp: 69º. Tent Temp: 77º RH: 60% PPFD: 575 VPD: .44 kPa Day 19: Looking good. Tent Temp: 77º RH: 60% PPFD: 550 VPD: .44 kPa Day 20: Still looking good. New growth. Fed another 250ml RO water with 1ml RapidStart PH: 5.7 Tent Temp: 77º RH: 60% PPFD: 550 VPD: .44 kPa Day 21: End of Veg Week 3! Looking strong and healthy so far. Almost feeding/watering daily at this point, will up the solution volume and see if it will last a day or two longer. Fed 350ml-400ml of 4ml FloraMicro, 6ml FloraGro, 3ml FloraBloom, 1ml RapidStart, 2.5ml ArmorSi, 2ml CALiMAGic and 1ml Floralicious in RO water PH 6.2 PPM: 750 Solution Temp: 69º. Tent Temp: 77º RH: 60% PPFD: 500-550 AVG VPD: .44 kPa
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@Jcannaf
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The first one is taking off… Planted a second so making a new diary for them.
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@Bossman
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Ran into a a light stress issue but all is under control now