Belle variété mais à du mal à pousser n'est pas très rapide. Mais belle variété

Update latter

8/21, 8/22 TOASTED TOFFY WAS TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR ON THE 22nd. It's been a few days of rainy dreary weather. This morning I went over and did some MORE defoliation on the toasted toffy trying to get all infected leaves off. I then used the rest of the k bicarb on the gmo in the middle. I haven't seen hardly any pm. So that seems to be working. However I don't want septoria to spread through my garden either. Hopfully the plant doctor will take care of the problem. If not I'll get something different. I can make a diy Dr. Zymes or I could just go to the store and buy something specific like trichodermia. The weather has been a fungus nirvana. The conditions couldn't have been anymore perfect for mold development. I'm super impressed with the k bicarb treating the pm. I took tons of pictures yesterday but I've been sick and couldn't upload them. I still need to sanitize and put my supports up. I'll keep this updated with what I'm doing. UPDATE: AFTER UNCKES FUNERAL I WATERED THE SHERB PIE THAT I DIDNT LAST TIME AND THEN I FED. I DIDNT FEED THE TOASTED TOFFY DUE TO IT BEING TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR. EVERYTHING GOT A QRT THE 50GAL GOT MORE. TWO GALLONS TOTAL USED. I NOTÌCED SOME SLIGHT PM ON THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE. IT WOULD BE TIME TO TREAT AGAIN ANYWAY. I PLAN ON WATERING TOMORROW AND TREATING THIS PLANT AGAIN. IM HESITANT TO UsE PLANT DOCTOR (do to feeding tonight) RIGHT OFF SO ILL PROBABLY USE YHE K BICARD. IT WORKS GOOD. I SHOULDNT HAVE FED THAT PLANT SO I COULD APPLY THE PLANT DOCTOR INSTEAD. THAT SEEMS TO BE WORKING REALLY WELL. LAST TIME I USED IT WAS ON FUSARIUM AND THATS JUST A LOSING BATTLE. DID A QIICK VIDEO ILL UPLOAD TOMORROW. 8/23 I HAD A CRISIS SITUATION AND I FUCKED UP THE DIARY. I THINK I JUST DIDN'T RECORD WHAT I DID ON THIS DAY. 8/24 I checked the bags and they were heavy. I watered the sherb pie today as it missed the last watering. Everything but the toasted toffy got fed yesterday. I noticed some slight pm on the middle GMO that I've been treating with k bicarb. Just a couple leaves. Looks like a couple spots I missed. I was going to apply it again but I dodnt have time. I'll be back over soon and I'll treat it and do the defoliation needed. Maybe I'll even sanitize and get support up. Since I fed yesterday I don't want to use the plant doctor for a few more days. I'm thinking of treating everything with it. I need to read and see when the next application for toasted toffy is due. Things are really starting to flower. Once I get the work done I may add beastie bloom to my nute line up. I think I'll do another k-bicarb app on the plant with pm. It's doing a good job. Since the l bicarb I don't see any pm. I should've held off feeding it so I could've used plant doctor. I'm monitoring toasted toffy and if it keeps working good I'll treat everything preventatively. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11:30 BECAUSE IT HAD CLIMBED INTO THE UPPER 80'S. AS I SUSPECTED THE PLANTS NEEDED WATER. THEY COULDVE WAITED UNTIL TONIGHT BUT UNFORTUNATELY I HAvE TO DO THINGS WHEN IM ABLE TOO. EVERYTHING GOT A GALLON EXCEPT THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE IN THE 30, THAT GOT 1.5. SHERB PIE GOT IT YESTERDAY AND ISNT FLOWERING AS VIGEROUS SO IT USES LESS WATER. BEFORE WATERING I WENT THROUGH THE ENTIRE GARDEN AND DEFOLIATED WHAT NEEDED TO BE DEFOLIATED. I HAVE A FEW SMALL LIMBS I SHOULD PRUNE BUT THAT STUFF MAKES GOOD HASH MATERIAL AND ACTUALLY ADDS UP. I NOTICED A LITTLE BIT OF PM ON THE GMO I TREATED. Just a couple spots on a couple leaves and I removed them. I MIXED UP K BICARB AND ILL APPLY IN THE MORNING. I WANTED TO USE PLANT DOCTOR BUT SEEING THAT I FED ILL WAIT. ID LIKE TO GIVE THEM ALL PLANT DOCTOR AS A PREVENTATIVE. SUPPOSABLY IT STIMULATES AN IMMUNE RESPONSE WITHIN THE PLANT WHICH FIGHTS THE PATHOGENS THEN LEAVES POTASSIUM AND PHOSPHORUS BEHIND AFTER 4 DAYS FOR THE PLANT TO USE. I THINK ITS GETTING CLOSE TO TREATING THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN. ILL HAVE TO LOOK. I TOOK A VIDEO BUT ILL HAVE TO UPLOAD IT it. 8/25 I know the diary is fucked up. But I know I watered yesterday. Except the sherb pie. I didn't check the weight bit did a bunch of defoliation. I made another half gallon of k bicarb with a drop of dawn and sprayed all the gmos. I only saw a COUPLE spots with pm on them and I removed them. Still though I wanted to make sure it doesn't get out of control. I should've checked the weight of the sherb pie but I'm sure it's fine.. I took a video but I can't upload it yet. WENT BACK OVER AROUND TWO. IT WAS A BLISTERING HOT DAY IN THE 80'S. THE BAGS WERE DRY. THEY HAD A LITTLE WRIGHT TO THEM AND MOST SOME LEAVES WERE PRAYING. SOME WERE STARTING TO DROOP THOUGH. I WATERED EVERYTHING A GALLON EXCEPT THE SHERB PIE I GOT THIS MORNING. I gave the gmo in the 30 1.5. THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE COULDVE WAITED UNTIL MORNING BUT AT LEAST I CAN KEEP TRACK OF IT EASIER THIS. MAYBE I SHOULD GIVE THE 50 MORE WATER AT A TIME. IM GETTING YELLOW LEAVES. I THINK ITS PROBABKY SENESCENCE. ITS ABOUT THE SAME TIME EVERY YEAR I START LOSING SOME LEAVES. IT SEEMS TO BE JUST THE SHERB PIE AND THE BIG ONE IN THE 50. THAT PLANT HAS QUARTER SIZE BUDS ON IT THOUGH. ITS AMAZIBG HOW MUCH THE WATER INTAKE CHANGES WHEN ITS 60 OR UPPER 50S WITH HIGH HUMIDITY TO WHEN ITS IN THE 80S ALMOST 90. I HOPE IM NOT WATERING TO OFTEN. ITS BEEN COLD AT NIGHT. IN THE 50S. THE EVENT HORIZON HAS TURNED A NICE PURPLE ON MANY LEAVES. THE GMO'S AND SHERB PIE ALSO ARE TURNING PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. I SAW WHAT LOOKED LIKE SEPTORIA SPOTS CRAWLING UP KY EVENT HORIZON IN THE BACK. IN GOING TO TREAT IT WITH PLANT DOCTOR TOMORROW. 8/26 Rainy day. I noticed some septoria on the toasted toffy climbing a bottom branch. But it is time to reapply plant doctor. I saw a couple spots on the event horizon and I treated it today with 1/4 gallon of 2tsp per gallon plant doctor. I sprayed the leaves then I used the rest on the soil. The k bicarb is still keeping any pm at bay. I haven't seen a spot. I hope the plant doctor helps the event hotlrizon. I'm not even sure if it has it but I want to be cautious. I'm thinking of treating them all with plant doctor. I'm also going to use beastie bloom on some of the more advanced plants. I wasn't expecting it to rain but it wasn't for at least a couple hours after I sprayed. I ran another support line across the cage. I need to lst both event horizons and defoliate the sherb pie. It's weird but it seems like EVERY day I go over the flowers are bigger! I see birds darting out when I approach. Maybe that's why i haven't been finding pillars. I found ONE hairy one this week trying to escape to the soil on a string. I got him though. We'll see how it goes. If not I have other options for treatments if needed. That plant in the 10 is HUGE. I'm suprised it got that big in 10gals! Trying to upload videos but they are LONG so I don't know if they

La planta cubrió exitosamente toda la superficie, tiene un sistema radicular sano, el único detalle es que cuando se hace el cambio de agua y se quita la red la planta se estresa un poco al volver a colocar la red

Start of week 10 Day 64 - Lightly Defoliated today and she smells wonderful. I’m the worst at detailing odours but all I can say it’s pleasant to the 👃 Now in a 2x2’ area she get 135W (HLG 3k) Next top dress should be coming up at the end of this week with Gaia Green 2-8-4 Day 70 - Received molasses Ph 6.4

*Pre-flowers have micro trichomes upon formation, LOL. Based on my early observation, I predict that these will be frosty frosty on the trichomes. Added 20lbs of black lava rock as mulch, raising soil temp around 1 and a half degrees to 72.8F. Some nice little bud formations are creeping up already. Nice little foliar spray of some aminos to the underside of the leaf. Hard to guage or know how much the aminos help, but after reading how energy intensive it is for the plant to make them from scratch its something I feel I need to do as a habit. An EC (Electrical Conductivity) meter, one that's made for the soil, it's so useful, as it indirectly indicates soil moisture as well as salt mineral nutrient levels. Just pop your metre stick in the soil and if ec is low, then it's time to water. Once there is water to assist in the conduction of electricity, the EC" will kick back up. 0.3-1.8, if it stays low, then you know it's time to add more mineral salt ferts! While Electrical Conductivity primarily indicates the overall salt content in soil, pH provides information about the relative proportion of cations (positively charged ions) in the soil's salt capacity. High EC signifies a higher salt concentration, while pH reflects the balance of cations like calcium, magnesium, potassium, ammoniacal nitrogen, sodium, and hydrogen. Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata Sugars, classified as carbohydrates, are composed of the elements carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O). They are characterized by the general formula (CH2O)n, where 'n' represents the number of carbon atoms. The most basic units of sugars, called monosaccharides, have this ratio of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. For example, glucose and fructose, both monosaccharides, have the formula C6H12O6. The reality of your typical plant. After harvest, with all water remove,d you are left with. (Ballpark) Mother-nutrients: Carbon 47%, Oxygen 43%, Hydrogen 4%. Macro-nutrients: Nitrogen 3%, Phosphorus1%, Potassium1%, Calcium1%, Magnesium0.5%, Sulfur0.5%. Micro-nutrients: All the rest combined 1% Nothing good can happen in a soil that can't breathe. The aerobic zone in soil is crucial. Microorganisms can break down sugars into their constituent atoms, though they don't typically do so completely to the individual elemental level (carbon, hydrogen, oxygen) in one step. Microorganisms utilize sugars through metabolic pathways like glycolysis and fermentation, converting them into simpler molecules like pyruvate and then potentially to other compounds like lactic acid, ethanol, or carbon dioxide, releasing energy in the process. Glycolysis: This is a central pathway where a glucose molecule (a common sugar) is broken down into two molecules of pyruvate. This process generates some ATP (energy) for the cell. Fermentation: If oxygen is limited, some microorganisms can ferment pyruvate, producing various end products like lactic acid (in lactic acid fermentation), ethanol and carbon dioxide (in alcoholic fermentation), or other organic acids. Further Breakdown: The products of glycolysis and fermentation can be further broken down through other metabolic pathways, potentially leading to the release of carbon dioxide and water, and the extraction of more energy. Not Always to Atoms: While some microorganisms can completely oxidize sugars to carbon dioxide and water, releasing all their energy, others may stop at intermediate stages, producing various organic compounds. Role of Enzymes: Microorganisms use specific enzymes to catalyze each step in these breakdown pathways. In summary, while microorganisms don't typically reduce sugars to individual atoms in one go, they break them down into simpler molecules, releasing energy and potentially forming new compounds as part of their metabolism. In conditions of high CO2 concentration, the pH of a solution or system will decrease, becoming more acidic. Conversely, low CO2 concentrations lead to an increase in pH, making the solution more alkaline or basic. This relationship is due to the chemical reactions involving CO2 and water, which produce carbonic acid and influence the concentration of hydrogen ions, ultimately determining the pH

Another week down few more to go can't wait!! First ever attempt of growing my own so really impatient to see the final results now and get to the finish line, that said all has went well upto now other than the size they reached haha, really started putting on weight now it seems and they smell lovely, excited to see the buds fatten and progress over these last few weeks up until harvest now, started 5 liberty haze also they are just coming upto 3 weeks now so check that diary out to, any comments info tips for the final stages appreciated

Bad Guy got hit with a heavy salt buildup, measuring around 1500ppm in the runoff. Planning to flush it during the next two feedings and see how it responds. Keeping fingers crossed for a swift recovery! 🌿🤞

She was just lst'd a little he help bring her out and down. She gave me no problems once she snapped out of whatever she was going through foe the first few weeks. She has some good chunky buds and will have a good amount of trim and some popcorn buds that I left to make hash out of. A real pleasure to grow and can't wait to bring it back into the garden.

Leider bin ich unzufrieden aber nicht mit Anesia oder der Sorte sondern mit mir selber habe erst zu spät bemerkt das ich Trauer mücken im Zelt hatte 😢 diese scheiß fliege hatte das erste mal mit den Biestern zu tun ich sag euch der name passt zu den fliegen wenn sie erstmal da sind Dann Fängst du an um deine Ladys zu trauern 😂 naja wieder ne erfahrung reicher nur gelb sticker haben nicht geholfen werde die Sorte sicher noch einmal growen da ich gerne den Durchgang mit gesunden Pflanzen als Bericht erstellen möchte

Indica/Sativa Hybrid. Chitrali #1 (IBL) x Skunk no.1. Tall growing kush with a high yield. Lemon zest aroma with a sweet kush flavor. Lemon Cream Kush was cloned straight from original Chitrali #1 seeds, which we got from Pakistan (Hindu Kush valley) and stabilized using one of our proven Skunk #1 fathers. By extensively selecting and backcrossing the Chitral we have formed a very stable strain; stress proof and with only a few phenos. Our Lemon Cream Kush is an Indica/sativa hybrid with rock hard nugs and massive resin production. She has been long time favoured strain in Holland. Lemon Cream Kush is taller in stature and stretches a lot during flowering. She gives long dense kush buds. She is ideal for SCROG and very well suited for growing in more moderate climates, Indoor flowering takes 8-10 weeks, outdoors she is ready for harvest in October. Her smell is lemon with a piney twist. Delicious tasting bud with a sativa euphoric high and a mild bodystoned effect. There is no raciness or paranoia whatsoever, making her ideal for daytime medication against chronic pain and stress.

This week has been a recovery week. Cleaned the roots in alien root rot x..turned lights down to 4x250w chiller still struggling..waiting for new big one..roots still look a little brown but nute solution is brown. New roots coming out of baskets nice and white and thick. Plenty of new growth. Keep topping and have added lst to try and combat stretch and allow light in. When running advanced ph perfect at half strength ph is too high at full strength ph drops back into the 5s. Ec at 2.8 but no sign of nute burn yet anyway..

Avant dernière formation avant la fleuraison

The whole cycle was pretty easy. Grew great didnt need to take care of it alot.

I will update the diary after the buds are done curing

After 4 days of heavy rain, the first mold appeared... So I spent about 18 hours searching for plants and picking out mold with tweezers After last year's experience with another seed bank, I expected the plants to be very affected by mold, but I have to say that Fast Buds genetics coped very well! Mold appear mainly on blisters to which the stem of the leaf leads water, which then collects between the stem and the blister I trimmed the plants more so that the air flows better and that water does not stick to them The plants look healthy and the flowers are gaining strength Especially the dark purple phenotypes look very dense and hard. it also looks very resistant to mold Very pleasant sweet fruity scent I haven't seen my children for 3 days, it's raining extremely ... the last time I was chased out by swarms of ants in the early evening, I've never experienced this before, there were maybe a million of them and they sat on me and on the plants I'm finally going to visit them tomorrow, I expect I'll have a lot of work to do with mold and I hope the swarms of ants haven't harmed them in any way

On day 1 I changed out my reservoir. I lowered my nutes to 650 ppm(25% reduction). I adjusted the PH down to 6.1. My left plant has some burnt tips from either PH shift or over fertilization. My hope is that the lower ppm will help to resolve the issue before it spreads. On day 2 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 6.3 to 5.9. On day 3 the reservoirs PH is 6.0. I installed my new 200 watt HLG Rspec. I adjusted PPFD readings to 700-1300 PPFD on all tops. On day 4 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 5.8 to 6.2. On day 5 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 6.4 to 6.0. I diluted my nutrients in my reservoir by removing one gallon of nutrients from the rez and and adding 2 gallons of straight tap water to the rez. This brought the nute concentration from 770 ppm to 540 ppm as the plants will be entering the ripening stage in a few days and they have too much nitrogen judging by the extremely dark green leaves and burnt leaf tips on some branches of the left side plant. The buds seem slightly smaller then my last run which may be due to an excess of nitrogen and maybe not enough light as some of my tops are taller then the others making proper PPFD challenging. All in all the girls are coming along nice and I look forward to the final weeks of flowering 😀 On day 6 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 5.9 to 6.2. I think I have halted the nute burn as I haven't seen it progressing any more on the leaves. I will continue to monitor closely during these final weeks. The trichome production is increasing with some trichs on top of colas starting to go cloudy. The pistils are turning brown with roughly 40-50% are turning brown all signs I'm getting closer to the harvest window 😆. I dimmed my light to give 600-1000 PPFD to tops. On day 7 I reduced my temps to 75 during the day and 68 at night. I adjusted the PH of the reservoir from 6.6 to 6.1. My reservoirs ppm was too high so I diluted the rez with 2 gal of tap water. This brought it down to 480ppm. The average ppfd to all 14 tops is 604 with no top receiving more than 1000 ppfd

This lovely girl is just getting more and more beautiful. She is packed with buds that are swelling very well. They are nice and sticky to touch.

Hello, readers! Next week without accidents! Growing good. However, she could be growing faster😁 I think at this stage, she looks a little bit over-defoliated, also I chopped off the baby buds the lowest center. I wonder, if I'll keep her in rest for the next week. Place of ex-branch, kind of starting to mold. I've cleaned it. Will take a look a it after. Solution at the end of the week was good with PPM, but PH started going to 5, I didn't have anything to increased it, so I changed solution Feeding: (Kinda Micro) NPK20, B 0.01, Cu 0.02, Fe 0.04, Mn 0.01, Mo 0.002, Zn 0.002 - 0.23 gr/liter. (Kinda Grow) N 15.5 CaO 26 - 0.16 gr/liter. (Kinda Grow) NPK 10 5 40 + 2 MgO - 0.26 gr/liter. (Kinda Bloom) NPK 0 0 51 + So3 34 - 0.33gr/liter (Kinda Bloom) NPK 0 52 34 - 0.5 gr/liter. Orthophosphoric acid 85%(H3PO4) - 0 ml/liter