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Defoliated throughout the days. The past week nutrients fed were at ph 5.7/5.8. Switched to 6.0 now. Smell is strong. Friend commented he could smell the red pop upon entering the front door immediately. Feeding to run off every other day still. Added calmag this week. Not sure if I will continue to use or not. I do not want it to affect colors from changing as I approach later into flower. Added a temp & humidity meter this week. Usually reset once a day, or every other day.
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@FPVGROWCZ
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Všechno OK Začínám pomalu lehce přidávat PK13/14. Holky nabírají a každý den jde vidět jak obě více houstnou. Ať to roste Growers !
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@Kirsten
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☆♡ Gorilla Cookies: I've noticed a leaf fell off the bottom. I think I may've overdone the nutes. She's growing tremendously. I top dressed with the below, as the rest of my plants. I will only use PH'd water for the next several waterings, probably with Biosys or seaweed. ♡☆ 16.2.25: I decided to check out the lower canopies of all plants to see if I need to get rid of any foliage. I did get rid of a few small branches and leaves. However, whilst I was doing this, I saw more garden pegs from my LST remaining. There were about 6 or more in Pink Mist alone. Additionally, on Watermelon, there were some left in, too. I'm so annoyed to see that because the plants are really stretching, and I could've potentially disrupted this by leaving the pegs in for all this time without realising it. 🤞 that I haven't compromised things too much. We'll see. I watered today with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 containing the following nutrients; ♡ .8g Green Leaf Nutrients PK booster ♡ .5g Ecothrive Biosys I ordered quite a few things for the garden. I got Greenleaf Nutrients Sea K(elp) and Mega Crop Parts A+B. To go with their PK Booster I got last month. I'm excited to try it all together. Next run, maybe just using these. We'll see how it goes. 18.2.25: The plants are going crazy for water! Everything is getting used right up so fast! Today, I decided to add some more Black Strap Molasses to add some carbs and other micronutrients. I'll add the jar with the label in the photos section above. I watered a very small amount to each plant. What I put in: ♡ Black strap molasses 150g ♡ 2g Sea K(elp) Greenleaf nutrients. I dissolved everything in 4ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.4. 19.2.25: I received the majority of the garden purchases that I made. I'm still waiting for the Ecothrive Life Cycle. I wanted to top dress, but it's been delayed unfortunately. I am using my Greenleaf nutrients products which I bought on Amazon. I got the Mega Crop 2 part system Part A and Part B. I have the Sea K(elp), and the bud explosion PK booster. I really wanted to get some of their sweet candy asking read many positive reviews. Unfortunately, for me, this is unavailable to buy currently. So that's a little disappointing. I needed to do a good watering so when my nutes were delivered today, I got excited 🤗 I watered 2ltrs of dechlorinated water per plant, PH'd to 6.4, containing the following nutrients: ♡ 1g Mega Crop Part A ♡ 1g Mega Crop Part B ♡ .5g Sea K(elp). The plants drank this up within a few hours. I'm going to try and hold off on watering in hopes that my Ecothrive Life Cycle will arrive so I can top dress and water it in then. 20.2.25: My Ecothrive Life Cycle arrived yesterday, and the plants are ready for their top dress and a good watering in. I have some Biobizz Light Mix, Canna Coco,and perlite. I'm going to use this as a base to mix my amendments in. I'm going to fill my 5 gallon bucket with about 4.5 gallons of my top dress mix. I will distribute this across 6, 4-5 gallon pots. Then I will water in well with Greenleaf nutrients Mega Crop Parts A+B and Sea K(elp). I've made a crude attempt to video mixing my top dress. Don't listen to the audio. lol, my YouTube didn't stop playing whilst I recorded this 😂 So anyway, I added the following amendments to the above base mix of 4.5 gallons; ♡ 3 TBSP Ecothrive Life Cycle ♡ 3 TBSP Vitalink Bat Guano ♡ 3 TBSP Ecothrive Charge ♡ 1 TBSP RHS Mycorrhizal Fungi granules ♡ 6 TBSP Ground Cinnamon.
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@Roberts
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Sorry I missed a lot of updates. I was recovering from hand surgery then gd was not working right. She has a sweet earthy brown sugar smell. She did well for the limitrd care I could provide while I recovered. Was a good grow and I am excited to get to try her soon. Thank you Divine Seeds, Athena, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.
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Took a whole plant down and washed, nice hash color. Lil bit low yield. Greasy trichs on the pheno I’m processing. Looks like on the other phenos sandy trichs which I prefer. But overall this should drip off the press pretty wild I’m thinking
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Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.
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weeks 7 and 8 the sweet aromas came through more and more. These Northern Lights are a great choice for a stealth grow. These two cultivars had some difference in morphology. Cultivar #1 grew a lot taller and faster than cultivar #2. #1 Stretched quite a bit more than #2, and her flower sites were much closer together. She was also more sensitive to watering, feedings, Light. and change in environment. Cultivar #2 grew much more short and compact, she pretty much trained herself in veg. In flower she had denser nugs and more internodal spacing. #2 was defintley the hardier culitvar and was a breeze to grow.
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@jmsky
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Permanent Marker was the last one standing and got the chop at day 75 of flower, nearly 11 weeks. The trichomes were still not very amber anywhere except the top sugar leaves, but it was about 90% milky white, and the leaves were all drying out. I bagged 36g of larfy buds and trimmings, 20.5g top buds, and 12g small buds. 32g smokable is not bad. I will update with smoke report in a couple weeks, but initial tests were promising. Strong chemical taste not far off from its namesake, with a KO strength punch.
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Day 33 she’s beautiful and flowering and wonderful. I’m really excited for how she’s turning out. I used recycled dirt for the first time ever because they were my last cycle for summer break. But she’s impressing me like always none the less. can’t not wait for her!
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Boy I wish I had gotten a better start in the begining with this lady she has hard as rock nuggets .The pot was too small and the thing cracked from the roots massing up together .. The cooler temps in the end hurt her a lot now I'm thinking she will get the chop soon I'm starting the flush on this lady today and can't wait to see her buds drying ... She won't be a big yielding girl...
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12-15 don't know were my updates went...here is week 12...I killed the bagseed...she started flowering and I have a feeling she got too stressed after being dropped and replanted twice...im not too sad about it,,,these clones are getting HUGE and I have a Crop King strain in here with them so I needed the space...the game plan is double trellis atleast for these...they were a little damaged getting something cool in place for the xmas deal on here but they have recoverd...I can defoil these girls twice a week and it doesn't slow them...so that's were we are and I'm still gaining ground...up until now these girls have been getting blasted by a single mars hydro 300...things have changed and I will get this and crown royale updated today to be current on my diaries...here is the week that's missing though...
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Day 1 30/12/24 Monday evening. Started the seed off in de-chlorinated tap water and calmag 3ml to 5L pH 6.4. I will use this water for the rest of the week as sprays and transfer water. Day 2 31/12/24 Tuesday Seed has sunk 🙌 Transferred now to paper towel, sprayed with same water. Covered. Left in cupboard 24hrs untill tap root emerges ✌️ Day 3 01/01/25 Wednesday (Happy NY 🎇💚) Tap root has only just popped!! I will check back in 12 hrs and see if theey have tails Day 4 02/01/25 Thursday Tap root reached 1cm Seed only just cracked. Will leave a further 24hrs for a sustainable tap root. Day 5 03/01/25 Friday Tap root has reach 2/3cm and now been potted up in a 1L pot with cannaterra pro, added perlite, added cococoir, and dynomyco, all watered yesterday to dampen off. . Sprayed top soils today to settle in seeds. Day 6 04/01/25 Saturday Seed has emerged to top of soil level 😁 Moved all seedlings into the auto tent so they can catch the 600w dual hps. Day 7 05/01/25 Sunday The seedlings are here 🙌 She made it through the first week, onwards and upwards 🚀💚 Light spray with de-chlorinated tap water and calmag. Covered with dome. Picture update 📸💚
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@Dairon
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Como podeis ver en el video, han duplicado su tamaño en cuestión de 12 días, por lo que ha sido necesario la utilización de tutores y una poda de bajos bien potente pues ya no podré hacerle más, aparecen las primeras flores y con ello iré aumentando la EC progresivamente, pero con mucho cuidado de no sobrefertilizar .
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Day 56 Happy 8 weeks, Fiona! Still the easy going plant everyone wishes for :) I am pretty sure I can see first signs of flower. So one week after switching to 12-12, we are in (very) early flowering. Day 58 Well, I am running out of space 😅 My Scrog-Screen is bursting and I am really happy I have been using it because this Green Princess Fiona is BIG in every aspect (I guess this is what a long veg does with them 😍). From now on, I‘ll only use LST to adjust height differences but no more Scrogging. I‘ll defoliate her soon (probably towards the end of the week). Day 61 Decided to make perfect use of home office and defoliated Fiona. Also fed her 2.5l with half the recommended dose of nutes. Day 62 She looks happy! Doesn‘t seem to care about the leaves she lost yesterday. I‘ll give her another day rest before one final round of LST tomorrow 👑
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@Max1973
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Day 88 ..... lookin good.... she stable in flower now... neuts good, and stable... got her into a beautiful rutinue for the rest of the flower..... really happy with how it's going, .... she's going to be alot of work but will be well worth it, i have tasted her a little, just the trim that had to come off, was enough to taste..... 👍😎 (i posted this on ssh diary, i accidentally posted all the ssh diary stuff to this one first by accident, i'm human, i make mistakes, so i read it thru afew times and its accurate describe the mazar as well, so left it.... i have taken some leafs and tasted the mazar... it's interesting compared to the kush and ssh ... haha (dried the trim, curin in jar, try to add pic if i remember, both mazar ssh) was a new experience goin thru the difficulties of transition to flower in dwc iws system ....... listed general nuets that i am using, however the 1-2 lt mix i put in every day or 2 is mixed up at the time, and is specific every time to ensure the tank remains at 5.8-6.4 ph-1-2k ppm.... i've stopped using the ppm meter for accuracy and use it only to get a general reading... in fact the ph meter and ec/ppm meters are not really workin any more, lol thinkinin will put everything in main tent, it'll double light for both dwc's (280w new leds) and it'll be great to see a mazar F3 growin next to the SSH...... both from new420guy ..... i don't know the guy, and the seeds were handy to come by... lol ... however i looked him up, seems like a cool guy, growin abit of old school.... idk.... thx for passin on the seeds.... :) 👍😎👊
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4/15 Fighting a soil pH issue. Learned I made some crucial mistakes this entire grow that compounded week after week until a few days ago and I have complete lockout. I was feeding every watering (rookie mistake). I tested runoff and it was at 1800ppm and 3.5 EC, I have done lots of flushing and got soil to an acceptable level of 800ppm and 1.5-1.6 EC. But my soil pH is testing around 4 and will not come up. I have watered with baking soda and it up near 4.5-4.6 now but I have flushed so much over last 3 days I can't stress the plant anymore. Leaves on the bigger plant are rust spotted everywhere and dying off. I will prob lose plant disappointing since it's so far along. I will still yeild something from it but had this not happened this plant would have been great it's super stinky and sticky right now and buds are dense but would have really stacked on and produced had this not happened. Other plant is chugging along its got same soil issues but showing no signs of stress yet. 4/16 Soil pH is still super low on the sick plant and continues to decline, I watered both plants with baking soda water and was able to get the healthier plants soil to 5.8ph. In a last ditch effort to salvage the sick plant, I cut off the fabric pot and transplanted to a planter I had with double the soil capacity. There were no roots stuck to the walls of fabric pot, the base had some but overall I caused very little damage to root system. I watered again with baking soda water and it's now at 4.4ph the fresh soil I put in planter was 6.8 and immediately after watering the new soil tested down to 4. I'm hoping I can get some leaching of buildup from the old soil to the new and get it balanced quickly. I was able to get both plants soil testing around 5.8ph and out of the extreme acidity. There are some spots here and there that are testing a little lower. The healthier plant was showing the slightest spotting all over today, I watered it to about 20% runoff with calmag. Hopefully neither plant get any worse. 4/17 repotting the plant seemed to help tremendously, it really frosted up and seems to have resumed flowering. The other plant seems to be about a 7-10 days behind. 4/20 Bigger plant has really taken on a purple hue, pistils are appx 15-20% turned. Other plant seems to be 7-10 days behind, this is the plant that was over watered in the beginning and was stunted.
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Entrando ya en tierra derecha 😑😑😑😑 Modo zen en este proceso, ser paciente estar atento al engorde y esperar. 🤯🤯🤯 Así va el mix fem en sus últimas 3 semana 4 semanas para el corte 🌲🌲 Una de las #critical47 de @positronicschileoficial es la que estará primero y ya podemos ver que lograremos plantas sanas y limpias al final. Las de mayor producción son las #fatbanana y la #greenpunch. La deaoyr resina hasta el mentó es una de las #critical47 y las #Toxic. Durante todo el proceso y desde hace ya 5 años confiamos el cultivo a los fertilizantes de @topcrop. 🍒🌽🍍🌼💐💮
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June 22: morning foliar spray with Extreme Blend and FPJ made from cannabis tops and brown sugar. June 23: bit of a rough day today. I broke one ot the main stems this morning while trying to bend it a bit. It had grown to the point where I should be supercropping and not just using LST to get the 8 colas properly separated. Need to buy some proper floral tape and the only thing I could find in a hurry was clear packing tape. Not ideal but might still work. Or I’m down two colas. Also found a caterpillar in the act of munching on the leaves which mostly explains the minor leaf damage. Not a big deal and she is looking good for the solstice time of year. June 24: now have floral tape (great $5 grow tip) so I supercropped and taped the undamaged stem. This keeps all 8 grow tips at same height so one doesn’t take apical dominance. This way all should grow evenly. The broken stem looks like it will recover. Watered for first time since rain with molasses, Cal-Mag and Nature’s Source. June 25: morning foliar spray with FPJ and potassium silicate. Started another lazy compost tea in 5 gallon bucket. Two handfuls compost, molasses, Extreme Blend, kelp extract, bit of vinegar to get pH to about 7, and a bit of Dr Bronners peppermint soap to help solubilize things (surfactant or wetting agent). Also decided to add a handful of shredded coco coir to give the bacteria some media to grow on (“fiber”). Leave 24-36 h to incubate. June 26: looks good…used compost tea after 27C day. June 28: replaced clear plastic with floral tape. Five days to heal well enough to re-tape. Removed lower growth tips as part of the manifolding to focus growth on the 8 top spots for now.
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@Roberts
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Mandarin XL auto is experiencing a solution that is too strong. She has mutated some. I diluted out a gallon of solution and brought the tds down some. Hopefully enough. I will find out in the days to come. Nothing else to report beyond that. Thank you Gen1:11, Medic Grow, and Ganja Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g