The plant was easy to grow overall .. it grew fast and a little on the tall side which had me nervous but I was able to raise the lights up just enough to finish, so it all worked out in the end. buds came out hard and frosty no complaints . This was a freebie seed too! didn’t expect it to come out as fire as it did man was i wrong. Straight fire 🔥 Ran into root rot in the beginning of veg but the great white and hydroguard saved my ass.🙏

Woche 11 Nachdem die Blüte sich recht lange nach hinten geschoben hat und nun auch die Blütenansätze etwas seltsam wirken, müssen wir wohl festhalten, dass die Gute wahrscheinlich mit ihrer Mutation zu kämpfen hat, und nicht wie erwartet zu einer nährstoffgierigen Palme geworden ist. Parameter wie Bodenfeuchte oder Überdüngung (pH, Ec) wurden gecheckt ergaben jedoch keine Auffälligkeiten. Mal schauen, was aus der kleinen Mutantin evt. doch noch erwächst. Interessant zu beobachten ist an dieser Stelle, wie dicht die noch recht kleinen und knubbeligen Buds mit Trichomen bedeckt sind. Sollte das Pflänzchen noch ordentlich zu bulben beginnen wird es eine Glitzerpracht werden.

Plants have rapid growth from the start. Started In solo cups no added nutrients just a light water with compost tea

Cant wait till flush to see em purp OUT OR BLACK OUT 💜🖤🎩🌈🍬

Well 46.5 grams from a solo cup grow seems pretty good. It was my first attempt at doing this. Was a personal challenge, and glad I experienced it. I did move the cup around the room during grow. The herb is very fruity smelling and is a very pleasant aroma. Thank you again Amsterdam marijuana seeds. Was a excellent autoflower, and a beautiful solo cup grow. Thank you grow diaries community for the likes and follows. Special thanks to my YouTube channel subscribers. 💪🤜🤛🌱 DON'T DRINK AND DRIVE, SMOKE AND FLY Www.amsterdammarijuanaseeds.com Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Be safe out there👍

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Nothing to crazy this week to report, just watching and waiting.😌 No nutrients or micronutrients this week just straight water. Learning a lot though, I'm definitely a first time grower😏

I love this strain. Really strong genetics. Nice fruity and og kush like smell. Cant wait to harvest and try them.

Fed once this week with a weak feed including top max. I use kombucha vinegar as pH down. Water from my tap is ph6.8-7.0 and 38-42ppm so I might start using calmag supliment as the ppm at my old house used to come out of the tap at ph7. 2 and 200-220ppm. I had 2 plants that didn't like the light at 30000 lux and started bleaching so I took them out. I've defoliated today day 35 as humidity was getting over 80% and also to let light to the lower bud sights. Pre flower pistils showed on some plants around day 33 (some still have none) so I'll consider this the end of veg start of flower. The kalimist indica pheno is still not showing pre flower pistils but is always hard to force flowering when it's not mature for some reason. It's always 7-14 days behind everything else 🤔

this should be the last week of vegetation. Flowering should be starting soon. Seems like no end to this drought we are suffering from in Southern Ontario.

Absolute weapons flying in One seems further than the other but we are looking good

The plants received another dose of Biotabs Bio PK 5-8 this week, 15 ml each. I gave our Golosa a more thorough defoliation this week, while I only removed a few selected leaves from the other plants. 🌿✂️ Croptober is here, and we're slowly approaching the end of the grow and the most challenging phase of the season, with increasingly critical weather conditions. 🍂🌧️ Unfortunately, the balcony grow hasn't gone as well as in previous years. At this point, the plants were noticeably further along in previous seasons, while this year's ladies seem to be lagging behind in their development.

Die Woche über haben sich die Blüten weiter entwickelt. Die Trichome wurden mehr und man fängt an erste Terpene zu riechen. Wir haben Donnerstag (BT 21) stark entlaubt und schauen jetzt wie die Pflanzen wachsen. Z-Up haben wir ziemlich extrem entlaubt. Mal schauen wie sie reagiert.

Harvest Week 19, 19-25 February 2025 19-24 Feb - Observed and let the plant mature. 25 Feb - Harvested the plant, began the curing process. Jealousy Glue matured beautifully. I love the sweet, piney smell. The trichomes are mostly milky with very few amber colored, most hairs have turned brown, leaves have faded and turned purple around the bud area, all this is fine with me. The breeder recommended 68 days in flower, which is close to spot on with what she was grown in. She appears to have large, thick, resinous, and smelly buds. Very colorful I might add. It has me thinking her smoke must be good! She was cut down the morning of 25 Feb. All big leaves were cut off, and it was hung upside down in a closet by it’s branches. With a set RH of 55%, and temperature of 65 degrees F., it will hang here for 7-10 days, in darkness, with a slight air circulation (not directly on the buds). After that time the buds will be hand trimmed and then put into quart glass mason jars. I’ll place a size 8 Boveda 62 TerpShield in each jar and burp them until 62% RH is achieved. This usually takes about a week. Here they will cure for an additional 30 days. It will last in this state for a good 6-8 months. The Smoq Report: 11 March 2025 After 12 days curing I sampled some product. I couldn’t be more pleased with the flavor and potency. It is a smooth smoke, with a sweet herbal taste that will get you buzzed with just a couple of tokes. You can feel the high pick you up and any stresses or issues of the day just start to fade away and help turn your mind into a relaxing mode. You won’t feel couch locked, she has a good blend of genetics to keep you alert and talkative. She yielded fairly heavy with 11 ounces of smoke. 8 ounces of quality bud, and 3 ounces of lesser and more larfy bud. But it all smokes good. I will definitely grow this variety again, and recommend it to anyone who enjoys a quality uplifting high from a gorilla strain. - 19 Feb nutrient solution changed - 19 Feb feeding schedule updated - Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 - Nutrient Solution EC 0.8 at 51 degree F - Adjusting PH daily to 6.2 using GH up/down - Light power is at 75%, DLI 45 canopy coverage at 12hrs - Using General Hydroponics, HGC728040, Dual Diaphragm Air Pump, 320 GPH That is it for this grow. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.

Almost perfect. Very happy with outcome. Definitely will grow again. Hope to get at least 80gr from each tree

Heating Mat to keep temp in 80’s Day15)( Week 3 Day1) No water,good Added Mushie Man Day 16) idk if I’m right but growth seems a lil slow hopefully nothings wrong Day 18) Added c02 yesterday night , gonna put the lights at 50 watts Day19) Feeding stronger, keep bringing light up more as the plant grows so it’s 30 inches above the plant Day20) GROWTH IS AMAZING , idk if it’s the co2 or it’s just getting older, prolly both either way it’s great news, moving light up more, I’ll start LST on Sunday which is day 22, cleaning fan cause of humidifier ( tap water), keep humidity in high 50s and temp above 80 , for humidity reasons I only turn on in-line fan for a couple hours some afternoons Day 21) Fed Calmag, grow and micro to tap water(PH 6.2), added more coco to the top,will LST tmrw

Did some high stress training on the painkiller and honey cream maybe it was a bit late for that but I wanted to really make sure that they have a the space they need. Autumn is here and it did start with a lot of rain, I'm a little worried about mold if it's raining non stop. The temperatures dropped down to 10c° in the night and humidity is high, so fingers crossed that no mold will appear. The honey cream finally started to flower properly but she's still around 3 weeks behind the other two strains. The painkiller is getting closer to the finish line, she still has around 2/3weeks to go though. All plants received a lot of thining out removed some branches and leaves, lolipopping style hope this help increase the airflow and prevent mold. Pictures made while it raining.