Stretching is at a normal pace. Buds are developing nicely.

Cambiamos de fotoperiodo y las plantas rápido han pegado el cambio y ya sacan los primeros pelitos

Four plants in all eventually 1/31 First of the Bond harvests, Pussy Galore first of the FFT-7s, two more follow. Pussy Dry weight 312 grams 3/5 Holly 665 grams wet into dry - dry 98 grams Two more F7s to go 3/25 Pussy-1 clone yields 1107 grams wet in dry --- dry yield 181 grams One FFT-7 Remains Pussy-2 buds look a bit larger 3/28 Pussy-2 wet weight 1295 grams in dry. 242 grams dry. This concludes the FFT-7 harvests

The last week of flowering and three days of darkness.

Both IP camera...

week 9 and LOOK AT THAT !! 😄 Im in love with her perfume, the smell is amazing and she is growing by the biggest autos i have ever seen, unfortunatly as you guys can see im running out of space in the 5x5, but thats what it is, super confident i will have a huge yeild from this tent. see you later, give a like and comment, tks 😎

Day 10F-17F (Day 10F) Everything is looking on point. I’m going to soak in a gallon of lite compost tea diluted to 400ppms on each plant except for #5. I’m still a little worried I won’t make it through the stretch but at the same time I fear N toxicity just as much. I will give one more lite tea before the end of stretch, most likely at the end of this week. (Day 12F) Ladies responded nicely to the tea except for BBB#1. It just isn’t looking as vigorous as it was last week. It’s the only one without an air hose so I guess it couldn’t hurt to grab one. The air hose does without a doubt prevent overwatering in soil and I’m surprised I don’t see more people using it. It’s cheap, effective and gives me similar results to growing in pure coco. I’m going to give one more light foliar spray of 3ml of calmag, 3ml of kelp and 2.5ml of insect frass. (Day 14) Got the air hose hooked up to all 5 plants now. I hate that I’ve been forced to defoliate so much in early flower and it is definitely reducing bud size. Last round my bbb’s had pistil clumps twice the size at this time and they were dealing with severe deficiencies. I’m hoping it’s just genetics or the fact they are larger plants. (Day 15) I’m starting to see signs of N toxicity on the some of the new growth and overall growth on all plants except #1 has slowed. It was most likely caused by the foliar spray/tea combo. No more feeding anything for the next 12 days at least. Luckily it’s still pretty early in flower but I know that N tox can hit really hard after the stretch stops. I would be pretty upset if I vegged for 80 days only to get severe N tox in mid flower. Since it’s not breaking down in the soil, I should be fine. I’m going to defoliate some more of the large bottom fan leaves as they hold large reserves of extra nutes I don’t need. Hopefully these small defoliations aren’t stressing them at all. Next round I plan to do a big strip one week before flower, at transplant and a second big strip on day 21. (Day 17) I think I was over-worrying about the seriousness of the N tox. I’ve seen it hit very hard in mid flower and can’t be too careful. It’s almost always caused by water soluble nitrogen so I’ll try to stay away from that unless I absolutely need it. My case does not look to alarming just yet. I noticed the stunting on #3 right after that last tea so I am going to stop giving the last liter of compost tea because of how unbalanced and separated at the bottom it is. It sure helped out the other 4 plants that didn’t get the granulars from the bottom of the bucket. I‘m planning to give a bloom tea around day 26 and a final top dress a few days later. #1 has now out stretched everything else in the tent. I honestly was not expecting that. If #3 didn’t get stunted this whole week I think it would be the taller/heavier plant.

These two Boofy's were harvested on the 73rd day.

Venga familia, va la séptima semana de floración de estas Frosted Guava de Zamnesia. Hay una carencia poco avanzada en varias plantas de calcio pero nada que no mojes a solventar , sabiendo ya lo que queda… La humedad está en su punto, y por fin puedo controlar la temperatura en 22 grados. Ph estable entre 6.2 y 6.5 Las flores están tricomando bien y desprenden aromas bastante llamativos. Ya vamos viendo cómo progresan estas últimas semanas. Os comento que tengo un descuento y para que compréis en la web de Zamnesia de un 20%, el código es ZAMMIGD2023 The discount 20% and the code is ZAMMIGD2023 https://www.zamnesia.com/ Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨

Pues ya esta es su ultima fase de floracion, tiene unos olores muy apetecibles!! La proxima semana tendremos fotos y video de las flores maduras y de la cosecha!! :)

we are entering the 8th week and the 2nd week of flowering. she is only growing minimally in height. the flowers are getting thicker. she is developing some nice little buds. she is doing really well. no parasites or diseases to be seen. in the greenhouse i have an average of 30 degrees, lowest temperature about 20 degrees and highest 40 degrees. in the video you can see a comparison with the white widow. both are the same age. i didn't use any topping or LST on the white whidow. it's crazy how big the difference is.

Coming soon

Lemon Cherry Gelato will need a little more time before she is ready. However, the buds are already covered with trichomes and also very sticky. Buds smell very sweet and lemony, with the classic Gelato aroma. 🍋🍋🍋🍒🍒🍒

Day 43-49 A lot of them are showing signs of going into bloom. Doing their stretch before bloom, so they need more nitrogen before they're done stretching.

Swolling like crazy

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

June 11: First week exposed to the full elements. Plants took a beating from the wind but othwise look strong and healthy albeit a bit small. No rain this past week, but soil moisture at 10cm is decent. Preflowers are showing already.

Time to start Flush 😀

Plants are drinking heavily,, "frost" is really starting to show and the purple one is clearly regaining vigor and coming back to life. I had to refine the heat mat placement alongside the pots to keep a steady 23°C at the floor and compensate for the night temp drops.