First week budding. Definitely starting showing signs of female the first 2 days you can see the hairs com in at the bot of the stocks. Looking forward to next week

After one week flushing, it's time to harvest. I could have given her one more week but powdery mildew was spreading so I decided to do only one week for flushing, I don't worry much because since I have always been doing low dosis of fertilizers during her life, my plants never need so much flushing time to detox form all those chemicals. After I cut off shoots, I submerged them into a H2O2 solution (200 mL H2O2 10% in 20 L tapwater). The residue that was left floating on the bathing water was very little, because infestation was not very extended. I left the buds hanging in a rope for the day. On the evening I'll take them inside, tomorrow I'll trim.

Grow diary 11 stage 8 Day 71 to 80 She doing her thing. Have managed to get a bit more light to her. Probably 2 weeks before she is moved out to finish on her own. Wish all the others in this grow had grown like this one.

Hi ✌️🌱 Es ist soweit, sie ist fertig ✨️ Alles in allem bin ich mit diesem Grow mehr als zufrieden 🙌 Es gab keine größeren Komplikationen, abgesehen von ein paar Mal etwas zu viel Wasser 💦, aber das hat die Kleine richtig gut weggesteckt. Zum Schluss wurde es von unten zwar etwas kühl ❄️, doch das hat sie absolut nicht interessiert 😄 Der Geruch hat sich gegen Ende nochmal leicht in die gasige Richtung entwickelt ⛽️, ist dabei aber trotzdem sehr süß und extrem aufdringlich geblieben 🍬🌸 Bei der Ernte liefen 3 AKFs auf voller Leistung, und trotzdem hat das ganze Haus nach ihr gerochen 😅 Mit dem Ertrag hätte ich in einem 9-Liter-Topf wirklich nicht gerechnet 🤯 Die Buds sind super klebrig, brutal fest und ordentlich schwer 💪🔥 Abschließend kann ich nur sagen: Es hat richtig Spaß gemacht 😍 Definitiv nicht der letzte Steckling vom Verein aber fürs Erste bin ich bestens versorgt für diese Session 🌿 Ich freue mich jetzt schon auf die nächste Runde 😎 Alle Mengen über 49,9 g werden selbstverständlich umgehend nach CanG-Vorschriften entsorgt 😉 Danke für eure Aufmerksamkeit und bis zum nächsten Mal ✨️✌️💚🍀

Some are flowering here the others are a few weeks behind going to have all my diarys and plants better set out in more diarys for you

June 5 2020 ROSEGROWS RecProRun1

Día 71 (24/03) La planta lo ha pasado mal tras 2 días sin riego (casi 3 ciclos completos de 12 horas de luz sin riego...) A lo que se suma altas temperaturas en mi zona, han tenido 28 ºC durante las horas de luz... Las hojas inferiores se encuentran caidas y alguna quebradiza... Le hago un riego con 750 ml H2O EC 0,45 a ver si se recuperan.... Día 72 (25/03) Riego con 250 ml H2O EC 0,45 Elimino las hojas quebradizas que no se van a recuperar después de la "sequia" que han pasado Se encuentra en buen estado general y formando nuevos pistilos! 😍💥 Día 73 (26/03) Riego con 250 ml H2O EC 0,45 Día 74 (27/03) Riego con 500 ml H2O EC 0,45 con BIO PK 5-8 a 10 ml / L Día 75 (28/03) Riego con 400 ml H2O EC 0,45 Día 76 (29/03) Riego con 500 ml H2O EC 0,45 Día 77 (30/03) Riego con 400 ml H2O EC 0,45 🚀 Khalifa Genetics - https://khalifagenetics.com/product/lemon-blanco-v3/ @khalifa.genetics 💦 BioTabs 15% DISCOUNT code "GDBT420" biotabs.nl/en/shop/ @biotabs_official 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE @promixmitch @promixgrowers_unfiltered 💡2 x Mars Hydro FC1500 EVO Led Grow Light (2024 NEW FC 1500-EVO Samsung LM301H 150W LED) - https://marshydro.eu/products/fc1500-evo-led-grow-lights/ - https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CSSGN5D8?ref=myi_title_dp

Eccoci qui... Tutto va per il meglio, questa settimana non ho applicato stress alla piccola, ma ho guardato l'evoluzione che ha avuto dando i nutrienti. Ora ha un odore davvero intenso ed uno strato di resina pauroso, vediamo come si riprende dalla defogliazione che ho fatto settimana scorsa. Seguiranno aggiornamenti, grazie a tutti per il supporto🔥🌲❤️

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

🇺🇸 Grow Journal – Week 12 | Pineapple Upside Down (Veg) Week 12 of veg — the Pineapple Upside Down is cruising steady and looking stronger than ever. I’ve been letting her just do her thing, focusing on recovery and structure before deciding if I’ll top her later. At this stage, it’s all about patience and letting her build up natural vigor. Nutrient-wise, still running the Athena Blended line, holding the mix at EC 1.4. I’ve been experimenting with Athena Balance, and I have to say — it’s impressive. My base water pH usually fluctuates between 6.3 and 6.8, depending on the day. I add 1 ml of Balance, which actually brings it up close to pH 9.3. Once the nutrients are mixed in, the solution drops back down to around pH 7–7.2, and from there I fine-tune it with a touch of pH Down to land right around 6.0–6.1. I allow a gentle drift down to 5.8, but whenever it hits that mark, I bump it back up slightly to keep things steady around 6.1–6.2. Honestly, Athena keeps the reservoir incredibly clean — crystal clear every time. It’s one of those small details that really makes a difference when you’re running hydro long-term. Temperatures are holding around 22–23°C, with humidity between 70 and 75%, which keeps the environment perfect for steady vegetative growth. She’s lush, healthy, and just waiting for her turn in the flower tent — if I had more space, she’d probably be flipping already. That’s about it for this week — nothing flashy, just solid progress and patience. Can’t wait to see how she performs once she hits flower. Thanks for following along, growers — see you next week! ✌️🌿

April, 20th Happy 4:20 to all People The first Thinng when i open the Tent is smelling such lovely Scents, flowery spicy... whateveer Then looking at those Peaks they Produce,.....😍 and I start aBIIIIIG Smile😁 Girls doing fine Flowering and Flowering,,, Feeding every other Day , I added Organic More PK, because they need it now Watering often with all Beneficals they need now

Pflanze ein weiteres Mal beschnitten und entlaubt. LST angewendet.

This week they started show va lot of yellow leaves, I was addind some more nutrients since I Think they can still fatten a bit more. On some of them you can see there are some crunchy leaves , which bothers me a bit.. is it normal? One of them is not drinking that much water lately so I'm just feeding it with water, hopefully I can harvest it within a week a or less, the rest of them are still drinking a lot so I'll keep feeding them with nutrients but with only 2ml/ Lt Smell is super strong and even with the carbon filter the whole room smells like poison, hahaha, luckily i the rest of the house smell it's barely noticeable Looking forward to harvest and finish everything, this last period is has been the toughest cuz I need to know when exactly to start the root wash

Day 105 - She's not far off now, next few days I'm guessing. I'm gonna need help trimming this up. Any volunteers? 😂 Update: I will revise the harvest. Upon much closer inspection most of the trichomes are clear. So she's going on for a while. @commandercannabis suggested I put lights on her 😂

The clone is in the same height as the rainbow triangle. we set the Forbidden Nectar a little bit up because she is the smallest one…indica dominant After 25 days of flowering we recognized that the forbidden nectar is already starting to purple a little bit (last picture)

Gave them their monthly feeding a few days into first week of flower with Gaia Green organic dry amendment slow release fertilizer. It really has allowed me to focus solely on watering technique and grow environment without worrying about over/ under fertilization. Plants and I love the product! Posting an update tomorrow of end of week 1 flower pre-flower. Cheers 🍻

100 gorilla glue plants here guys Nearly ready to go outdoor s just waiting for this shit weather to go better and yea guys I know you gone say Dont transplant autoflower but guys I have always done this and it works for me😎🤑