Height is for holy punch. power flower is about an inch shorter

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Habe sie heute geerntet. Musste sie nicht düngen in den 80 Tagen 🤙🤤 Wir sehen uns in 3 Wochen mit dem Erntebericht

Sorry that the updates have been slow, been busy. Still going regardless though. Although this is a week 5 update I'm ahead at around week 7.. so ill update to current. Hope that makes sense Business as usual, girls are happy.

If you’ve followed along you’ll know how well this plant grew. It handled a lot of stress from supercropping, LST, and defoliation. The plant wanted to produce and wasn’t letting me get in the way of that. 7 days dry in my new dry and curing room. First 4 days 70*f and 55% humidity increased to 60 by the final day. I ended up with just over 6 ounces dry weight, well trimmed, and properly weighed. My seedsman Gelat.OG grown at the same time was an 8oz plant and the only one that beat the lemon pie on dry weight. The smell and colors of the lemon pie had me going crazy from early flower til the end. It was an absolute pleasure to grow. This is the second Lemon pie I’ve finished, a friend was running out of room so I finished his plant. He also got close to 6ozs but the smoke was much different and the colors were as well. You will run into very different phenos with fastbuds strains and it makes it difficult to repeat grows, just don’t be upset if my smoke report above isn’t consistent on every plant if you decide to grow it. Both were very enjoyable though… FastBuds has a place in my heart forever and I’d recommend them to anyone looking to grow cannabis at any skill level. They’re just good people over there. Personally I will be taking a new journey with Mephisto next to try and expand my knowledge of other growers, after hearing so many great things it’s time I give them a try. Hope you follow me along on that grow as well.

Plucked a few more leaves and rearranged some plants this time around. Other than that just changed the nutrient solution as usual. I like to break the resin heads with my fingers by rubbing a sugar leaf to get a nice smell from the plants and these smell of a very fruity scent with a hint of pine on the end. Hopefully I can bring out some of that profile in the cure. 👍

Flowering week 5. I diluted slightly ec down with ro water.

chopped #1 on 1/21/25 started curing today 1/27/25 chopped #5 on 1/23/25 still hanging and drying. will update with weights and smoke reports and more pictures when dried and cured #1 33 grams. nice big nugs. i really like how the mainline turned out with the final product #5 32 grams smaller buds overall but the yeild is very similar. these are weights after trimming. i did a fairly heavy trim on thesr 2 plants. this diary started with 5 plants but because of my perpetual flowering set up, i have had 3 other diaries for the flowering stages of the other 3. The flowering stage of this diary are only plant #1 and plant #5

10/8 was harvest day as a storm collapsed my plant, I should have set up support but live and learn

Getting pretty concerned about this little lady. Though this spotting issue could be a number of things but so far iv had no luck correcting it. I had my twnt fan break down leaving me with only my exhaust inline fan and passive intake. Thought maybe this cause condensation leading to light burn, but have since gotten a new fan and new spots apear. Thought maybe calcium or magnesium exess as i was using quiet a bit if Cal Mend to correct an earlier deficiency. So I fed only Micro Gro and Bloom with so UC roots and still spots are apearing. Im going to try readjusting my nutes and lowering the concentration to do a flush and fingers crossed because IDK how much worse this can get before we git the point of no return. March 12, Did a flush today. 5 gallons water + 95ml of Clear by Dutch Nutrients throughout the hydroton. Did this 3 times. Then did a reservoir change with adjusted dosage of Nutes.

6/22 Some pictures didn't upload but that's probably a good thing. As long as the video went up its good. I need to take less pictures. I'm glad I watered the plants in the back with a premixed gallon last night as we didnt get nearly the rain I thought we would. It's small showers throughout the day. The plants are getting enormous. A couple have revegged. Mostly the 10th planet. The others aren't anywhere near as impacted. Boy are some of these stalks thick. I chose to keep a couple plants that could be grown naturally without topping or fimming. I like to see the structure of the tree bit with humidity like this 98%rh it's easy to get botrytis. That's why it's good sometimes to have multiple bid sites so your proverbial eggs aren't all in one basket. But you do end up with a massive cola. I think that mk ultra with the big fan leavescis just going to be one giant bud. That's what it's looking like. Oh and today is the summer solstice. Longest day of the year. 6/23 WATERED EVERYTHING. USED FIVE AND A HALF GALLONS. EVERYTHING GOT AT LEAST A HALF GALLON. Despite the rain we got and the bags still having some heft I decided to water. It's 80 at 9am. It's supposed to he in the upper 90's today and coukd break 100° tomorrow. I hate that the grow bags are black. That's way to hot for the plants. I should find some empty soil bags and wrap the black fabric for a couple days. A sunscreen might help but I doubt much. We'll see how it goes. 6/24 It's 90° at 9am. It's supposed to break 100° amd stay there a while. Up to 106°. Plants looked awesome this morning. I wasn't sure what I'd find. Today is the worst of the days. If it didn't break 100 yesterday it was damn close all day and the girls look GREAT. I WATERED AGAIN TODAY. I USED 6.5 GALLONS TO WATER THE GARDEN. It was nice cool well water too so they should like that. Branches are getting longer and I'm training as the get bigger. I need to put up the trellis but I'm not doing it in this heat. EDIT: 90° @ 6PM WENT OVER AND AS PREDICTED THE TWO TENS WERE DROOPING. IM WONDERING IF THEY WILL BE ABLE TO FINISH IM THOSE TENS. LAST YEAR I HAD ONE THAT WAS HUGE IN A TEN BUT IT JUST DEVELOPED INDIVIDUAL CALYXS WITHPUT CONNECTING. CHECK IT OUT ON LAST YEARS DIARY. IF THATS THE CASE I SHOULD KIGHT DEP THEM BECAUSE THEYRE GETTING BIG. I WATERED THE TWO TENS WITH ABOUT A HALF GALLON AND I USED WHAT WAS LEFT OF THAT COLD WELL WATER ON THE 10TH PLANET IN THE 30. SHITS LIGHTER THAN USUAL BUT LOOKING PRETTY GOOD. THE REST CAN WAIT UNTIL THE MORNING FOR THEIR WATERING. TOMORROW TOPS OUT AT 85° WHICH WILL BE MUCH BETTER. IM LOVING MY STRAIN CHOICES RIGHT NOW. 6/25 It's super humid out but much cooler. I think it's like 80 at noon time. I had to water the two tens this morning. I didn't really HAVE to but I did. I filled up my watering can that says it holds 1.5 gallons (but it seems like more) and watered the two tens at least a half gallon and focused the rest on the 10th planet in the 30 and the other one up front that gets lighter than the rest. I was fully planning on watering EVERYTHING this morning but I could feel moisture in the soil and they had weight. I'm pretty sure I made the right decision. Especially with humidity so high. Either way I'll check tonight. EDIT: WENT TO THE GROW AT APPROX 2:30PM. I HAD BO IDEA HOW HOT IT WAD OUTSIDE. IT WAS 87° BUT THE HUMIDITY IS DAMN NEAR 100%! I HAD WATERED SHIT A KOT LATELY AMD WANTED TO WAIT UNTIL THE MORNING. THE TWO 10'S (WITH GIANT PLANTS THAT IM NOT SURE CAN FINISH IN TENS) WERE DRY AND LIGHT. A COUPLE SPECIFIC PLANTS WETE A "LITTLE" LIGHTER THAN THE REST. I MIXED UP THE WATERING CAN WHICHVIS 2.5 AND ANOTHER GALLON. I USED THE WATERING CAN ON THE PLANTS IN THE FRONT. THE CHEMDOG #4 WAS SIGNIFICANTLY LIGHTER THAN THE REST SO I GAVE IT MOST OF A GALLON. THE PLANTS THAT ARE STILL HEAVY ARE GOING TO HAVE TO WAIT LONGER BEFORE I WATER THEM. 6/26 This morning I came over to substantially lighter bags. I watered everything but the 50 with 5.5 gallons of water. Plants amd roots are getting heavier. My intuition told me to water that 10th planet but it was still wasn't TOTALLY dry. This happens a few times a year during hot stretches. It will be fine by the time I'm back. I've also noticed that the pink kush in the 50 (the only one that didn't use ALL new soil) is a substantially lighter green than every other plant in the garden. Boy I'm glad that heat wave is over. It's 67° at 9:30 that's much better. I'll update as I go. I'm still thinking about light depping the 10s. EDIT: HASN'T BROKE 70 YET AS OF NOONTIME. I THINK I MAY HAVE GONE A LITTLE OVERBOARD WITH THE WATER. TH8NGS LOOK ALRIGHT AMD THERE'S A GOOD BREEZE SO EVEN IF I DID THEY'LL DRY OUT QUICK. SO MUCH GROWTH SO FAST! THE MK ULTRA WITH THE BIG FAN LEAVES LOOKS A LITTLE SAGGY BIT IT WILL COME OUT OF IT. THE 10TH PLANET THAT WAS DROOPING LOOKS A LITTLE BETTER. IT DID REVEG AND IS STEAIGHTENING OUT TROM THAT. I DEFOLIATED SOME SPOTS TJAT LOOKED LIKE SEPTORIA. BUT THERE WERE BURNS AND DISTORTED LEAVES FROM BEFORE SO ITS HARD TO TELL. JUST A COUPLE LEAVES WITH THAT DOT. TIME WILL TELL. ITS PAST TIME TO GET MY IPM GOING ANYWAY. DURING ONE OF THESE COOLER DAYS IM GOING TO HAVE TO PREEMPTIVELY TREAT MY PLANTS. EITHER BT, CAPTAIN JACK OR PLANT DOCTOR IS WHAT I HAVE ON HAND AT LEAST. I HAVE CITRIC ACID AND K BICARB BUT HOPFULLY NONE OF THAT WILL BE NECESSARY. THE WIND IS FAR TO STRONG FOR A MITE POPULATION TO GET OUT OF CONTROL WHICH IS AWESOME. IM MAINLY WORRIED ABOUT THE PATHOGENS. 6/27 Rained last night but I don't think very much. Its much cooler. Went from 100 to 70 in a day. Plants did good to take those fluctuations. They are still SLIGHTLY overwatered with the mk ultra with the big fan leaves being the MOST over watered. There's a breeze today though and it's sunny blue skies. I think showers ate possible tomorrow at 4a.m. and it says showers throughout tomorrow to which sucks. I was hoping to get a couple nice days to dry the plants out. The 10s are light again but the soil is still moist. It's hard when it's so hot to water the correct amount. At least it is for me. Killed a couole moths and a pillar. I noticed the first sign of pest damage so it's time to get out and start the IPM. I'm hoping for no pathogens. I'll update as I go along. EDIT: IT'S 75° AT 11:30. That mk ultra with the massive leaves still looks overwatered. One of the plants in the 10s looks the same but that one is light but the soil is moist. The MK ULTRA is still holding some weight and the soil is still damp. It's not the AMOUNT of water I've given them that's the problem it's the FREQUENCY that ive HAD to water that messed me up. Going from 70° to 100° overnight for several days kinda messed me up. It's improving though. I lifted it and it doesn't seem TO heavy. The soil is still slightly moist. I hope that I don't get so involved with thinking the plants are overwatered that they are actually under watered. I think I need to increase volume when watering and treat each vacant differently (which I have for the most part). I'm usually very measured and careful but it is what it is. No more water for a little while. Other than thecshowers at 4a.m. and the showers expected tomorrow. Surprisingly the small time I was away allowed the plants to show a pretty drastic improvement. EDIT #2 WENT BACK DOWN AT FOUR TO CHECK THINGS OUT. THE MK ULTRA I WAS WORRIED ABOUT IS DOING MUCH BETTER. EVERYTHING (SANS ONE IN 10) IS LOOKING MUCH BETTER. I DUG DOWN AND CAN TELL THERES MOISTURE IN THAT SOIL IN THE TEN THATS A LITTLE DROOPY. THATS WHY ID RATHER UNDER WATER TGAN OVER WATER. UNDERWATER AND YOU JUST GIVE THEM A DRINK AND THEY PIP RIGHT BACK. WE ARE SUPPOSED TO GET SHOWERS TOMORROW EARLY MORNING. HOPFULLY NOT MUCH. MY INTUITION TOLD ME TO HOLD OFF ON WATERING THAT PLANT IN THE TEN. THE OTJER IS THE SAME WEIGHT AND LOOKS GREAT. WASNT PLANNING ON GOING DOWN SO UNFORTUNATELY I DIDNT HAVE MY PHONE ON ME. 6/28 Rained hard last nightcand showers all day. Plants don't look to bad off though. I think I wad watering to frequently with not enough volume. That AND the fact that we are having 35° temp swings. That has made it hard for me to keep the plants on any k9nd of a schedule for watering. I believed that plants were overwatered but since we've gotten all this rain some seem to have slightly improved. These are resilient strains and will probably be alright. I took a quick video. I'm REALLY CONSIDERING light depping the two tens. 6/29 It's been maineing out. Overcast and misting. We got hammered on overnight the night before and all day yesterday. I was completely wrong and would've made a fool out of myself if not for mother nature. I guess those plants were UNDERWATERED not OVERWATERED! It was hard to tell though with the 30° Temps swings. Either way I got this shit now. I've killed and seen some birds dart in and grab a few pillars. I see a little bit of pillar damage so plants MAY get a treatment of bt tonight. They're watered and healthy after all.

Hey people! We have arrived to Day 14 and WOW these girls really do make you realise why the company is called FastBuds!! (Just checked my last diary and I said the same 😂, FastBuds genetics are really fast guys). The GSC girls have BOOMED in growth since week 1. Unfortunately, my local mail service lost my FastBuds Gelato seeds, so the back two pots right now are mystery seeds, and they definitely have a very slow growth rate compared to the GSC. The small cup is Gorilla Glue (photoperiod), but just doing for fun as it was lying around, may not continue with it so let's not focus on it. This diary is all about the GSC, so who cares about all that! Gave them a second feed of nutrients, and PH'd it to the right level. They seem to be LOVING it. I have upped the dose since my last grow diary for this strain and they are reacting very well it seems. Thinking of doing some LST next week or so but not sure if I should, never done it before and don't want to mess these plants up. I've done a lot of research on it so I'm going to have to come to a decision next week. We'll see! Much love friends, see you on the next update! Hope you and your loved ones are safe during this world situation and may you all keep in good health! ┏(＾0＾)┛ ***EDIT*** MY GELATO SEEDS ARRIVED (a day after this Week 2 entry)! Woohoo! Will start their 1 week separate diary next week. I ended up pulling out the smallest mystery seed in the back (trashed it) and replaced it with a FastBuds Gelato seed. I then transplanted the other mystery seed to a 5th pot, as it seems to be doing well, and replaced it's old pot with another FastBuds Gelato seed. I also just got an EXTRA LIGHT! There was no real need for it, but I really want to try and produce the best buds possible. I have added a MARS HYDRO TS1000 LED. Hopefully they do well with it.

After 3 days, when the temperature rose above 11 degrees, I could finally remove the greenhouse from the pet bottle. I did the first fertilizing with Advanced nutrients Voodoo juice, Piranha and Tarantula for better development and protection of the root. Unfortunately, the pet bottle greenhouse, which was dewy and dirty from snail slime, caused the main stem to pull out more than I would have liked. I like it when the main stem is low and immediately starts to form secondary branches

Five ounces is estimate of final dry amount because current measurement is semi dry I should update this later...

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Harvest Day

I'm behind schedule with my updates, sorry I've been busy... Things have moved along significantly for this girl since last posted. Topping did her some good despite the fan falling on the plant and snapping of one of the main sites. I intend to grow her out during the flowering stage of the 3 others autoflowers and then have her in flowing by herself on the 12/12 schedule in the 3x3 tent. Hopefully she'll be a monster ;) UPDATE *** Testing something out. She is in the midst of ending week 5 and I've transplanted her into a 40L pot to see if this will benefit stronger cola formations and an overall bigger yield. I was given these seeds and had believed they were feminized seeds but I'm starting to see pistils at bud sites. Must also be an auto this will alter my plans for this girl but he will be the last of the 4 auto flowers I have going therefore she will get all the light attention in her final 2-3 weeks.

day 42 holy moses these plants are big! lts of bud sites

She's looking very healthy and strong so far, although she had to handle a little fungus gnats infestation which has been completely errdadicated thanks to the treatment with nematodes this lady is starting to get into the shape I want for her. Let's see what we can do!

It’s amazing watching these plants grow, it’s been an experience already and so much to go with this grow and with all the learning to come I hope it looks okay to you guys anyone who would like to comment please do I’d love to hear other’s thoughts!