12. Woche in den nächsten Tagen werden beide Phenos geerntet um Platz zu machen für die nächsten Pflanzen

The CK has a long way to catch up...just wait and see the end results ;)

Week 12

25.07 Watering with 200 - 400 - 400 - 400 Used only 4ml/L TOP-Max (honestly I forgot about the fact, that I have to use the BioBizz Products only once in a week and I already added 4ml before I realized it…) 26.07 my neighbor complained about the smell one store under my balcony (told me he can smell it on the street 50 meters behind my balcony) 28.07 watering 400 - 400

Start of week 9. Buds are filling out nicely, but trichomes are still mostly clear. Breeder says 8-10 weeks so im hoping they are ready in the next week. Both are starting to show a little bit of the leaves fading, not sure if its normal or the start of some sort of deficiency. Super strong smell on both phenos. I was expecting alot more in terms of weight but the quality dies look great. Cant wait! 💨💨

02/24/25 - Short Facts: - Plant is looking horrible, quite many leaves have necrosis -- had to cut many off - VPD increased to 1.2, but I can only get it up to 1.1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, what is there to say? I haven't had as much time lately, so I haven’t been keeping a close eye on the plants in general—especially on the 1:Walt. But a few weeks ago, I noticed that something was wrong and concluded that it had to be a sulfur deficiency. So I bought Epsom salt, which contains both sulfur and a lot of magnesium. And here was my first mistake: I misdiagnosed the deficiency. My next mistake was using way too much Epsom salt—far more than I should have. That was a big mistake, which only made things worse. This is how the plant started to look like, but unfortunately, I caught it too late—like I said, I was quite busy. It was so obvious that something was going wrong. The leaves at the top of the plant looked worse and worse by the day. So I did some research and came to the following conclusions: - I misdiagnosed the problem. It was never a sulfur deficiency but actually a manganese deficiency. The small spots all over the leaves later became necrotic, eventually killing some of them. - By adding too much Epsom salt, I disrupted the balance between calcium and magnesium. This inhibited calcium uptake, leading to the symptoms of a calcium deficiency as well. I bought some "micronutrients" that do contain manganese and I watered it in and also sprayed the foliage. Right now, the plant looks so bad that I don’t know if she’ll be able to finish flowering or if I’ll have to do an emergency harvest. The next big problem is that I won’t be here for about ten days, starting on Wednesday next week. So yeah... not good.

Plants Flipped to flower on a 12/12 light schedule. EC dropped slightly to try and reduce any major stretch. These plants should have been lollipoped last week before putting them into a scrog but unfortunately I was unable to, so I have to remove the Scrog to make it easy to lollipop and then place them back into a Scrog once lollipoped. When the Scrog was placed back on it was more for support as I'd already built the structure of the plant the prior weeks. Although a few lanky branches did get bended back over. Another Scrog layer will probably added later in flower for further support when buds start forming.

During this week I will did some fan leaf removal, at the end of the week I will do a full system flush Flushing in 2 day when RO comes Good week. Flushed and added full tilt to the system @ 3tsp a gallon total 15 tsp

DAY49 7 Weeks Buds are hard. Smell is extreme. Very limited amount of spidermites under some leaves. No reason to exterminate them, because next week I'll probably harvest the plants. The smell of the Triple G is fanastic, Big separated buds. The Cookies Gelato are more sativa style of buds than I'm use of them. There leaves are turning purple. The Liberty Haze has a lot of small leaves in the buds, and thet got amasing blinking white flowers. Probably this will be the plants I'll harvest the last, because they need some extra flowering time. The Wedding Gelato is creamy, lots of trichomes and is fast flowering. But some flowers got budrot. I'ts hard to get the humidity low because of the rainy and misty autumn outside.

they are growing nicely, cant wait for the warmer weather to set in so I can plant these girls outdoors. Had a fungus gnat issue that i swatted down with some physical traps and Raid green Earth, see video for details. Also problems with 2 spotted spider mites so I deployed my troops, predatory spider mites. They should get rid of the problem for me.

I think the situation is very good. Im exciteed to see lst result Day 20, lst show good results. She drink so fast now. Day 21, going for week 4, what you think about she?

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Hi, 2x of my purple punch died 🤷 and another 2x they looks weird i think its bad genetics(mutants) the rest of the girls looks nice 👍

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil

Nothing to report this week, Please check out my other diaries and feel free to leave a like, maybe even a follow and I'll be sure to check out your diaries to. The light being used Is the Mars hydro SP150, its a great quality light and is very bright, ideal for a rectangular space. Drgreen13#6724 (discord) Stay high, stay fly, #420everyday.

I love growing its a big passion of mine , and the fact that GD exists makes everything so much better, one can interact with others and enjoy and learn from each others. Thank you all growers love and keep them green <3 <3 <3

Her large leaves curl sometimes so I know she does not like too much moisture and with her being in a plastic pot makes it worse however once she gets the sun ☀️ life comes back…I will soon transfer her to a fabric pot.

3/9 - I was unable to feed with nutrients as I just gave water on 3/6. I was letting my pot dry out before feeding. I also think I was letting my pot dry out too much was my issue. I am not exactly sure and fingering the soil does not seem to be working for me. I purchased a VIVOSUN Soil Tester, 3-in-1 Plant Moisture Meter Light and PH Tester. 3/10 - I checked my soul moisture and it was getting dry so I decided to feed with 330 of my nutrients along with a pinch of Epsom salt to help with my mag levels. If i am still seeing my leaves yellowing and the new feeding schedule does not fix my issue I will add some cal mag to the feed. I gave about half a gallon of feed water and slowly gave it to the plant. I think I spent around 10-20 minutes just slowly syringe feeding. After an hour of so I still have no run off. I did happen to get feed water on a few leaves but they are hanging lower in the canopy and close to the soil. I think I might prune them off sometime this week or next week. My 2 tops are finally growing in. I think they were delayed due to watering issues. I think I may have stunted the plant but am not sure. 3/13 Watered a gallon of water with Mosquito Bits as I had started to see gnats. Most of the gnats were from my Hibiscus plants that were inside the tent as well. I have removed them and placed them outside. So far I am not seeing gnat on my cannabis plant.

Plants came back out of their 36 hours of darkness and were a little droopy, so I made the decision to put them outside for the first day of light. Unfortunately they suffered from wind burn so I brought them back to the tent. Foliar fed the plants daily at 400PPM.