Alright Then REMINDER I DO 2 UPDATES PER WEEK 👉WEEKLYROUNDUP👈👉MIDWEEKLY UPDATE👈 We just hit week 3 and all is well , have to admit she's showing great , Growth in just 21 days😃 ....... Middle of this week I have decided to start a little training by pulling her over to the side and have decided to top it 👌 And she's filling out the pot perfectly👌 Very little water given ,so far and rain water to be used entire growth Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉I WISH GD HAD DISCORD SERVER SO GROWMIES COULD HAVE A PLACE TO HELP AND TALK THINGS RELATED TO GROWING IN REAL TIME .....👈 👉SO I CREATED ONE ALL YOU NEED IS TO JOIN THE GROWDIARIES DISCORD SERVER !!!!!!!!!!!👈 LINK IS 👉 https://discord.gg/zQmTHkbejs AND SEE HOW IT PLAYS OUT !!!!!!!

Hello Diary, In the end I can only say well done Royal Queen Seeds. I have grown a total of 4 out of 8 new hybrid F1 strains so far and all of them exceeded my expectations. Apollo F1 is no exception, although it was the smallest on the Farm, the flowers are the hardest and incredibly fragrant. During the entire cycle of growth and development, it proved to be very resistant, so that the plant looked impressive until the very end. The effect of Apollo F1 is relaxing, so I can consume it during my free time as well as when I am engaged in some creative work. It certainly removes stress and bad mood. At the end of drying, I got a little less than 50g, 49g to be exact, which is satisfactory especially because of the high quality flowers. I think I have mostly written everything that I thought was important, if anyone reading this text has any questions about Apollo F1, feel free to ask, I will be happy to answer. I would like to thank everyone for their support and comments, and especially Royal Queen Seeds for their many years of support.

26.12.24: I have noticed light stress on my plants. I had moved the lights further away and increased the light intensity to 70%. Unfortunately that created some issues. Namely severe palour of the leaves. To try and rectify the situation, I've dimmed the lights to about 30%, staying at the same distance, about 30 inches away. I measured the par levels, after I did this. They should a reading of anywhere between 40 and 150, at the canopy of the plants. They are all different sizes. This seems to have improved the colouring on all plants. After this evenings watering, I will monitor recovery and increase lighting intensity again slowly. I am also using the light cycle of 21/3, so the plants have many hours more light to absorb, than for example 12/12 or 18/6. I am pleased with the progress, considering all of my mistakes! 29.12.24: So I finally gave LST a shot, it's probably a bit too late, however I really want to get the most of the triploid pheno, and I went a little crazy and LST'd all plants except 2, as they're too small. I did that late last night, this afternoon I was amazed to see the plants turn their leaves back to the light source. I'm glad I overcame my fear of trying it. I'm very excited to see them adapt and progress! 😁 there are videos above with before and after of my LST process. Thanks for checking out my diary 🍃 ✌️

******** Week 8 - Jan 27 to Feb 2/20 (Days 50 - 56 from seed popping out) She has continued to swell this week and stacking her buds. The hairs have remained a nice bright white all week pointing up. Noticing some curling a bit of the hairs towards end of the week. They are white but there is a small red hair here and there now. Giving her a couple more days of feed no idea about flush. She has been slow going all along in her growth........at this stage I want that to continue......drag out her swelling/bud growing stage😋😋 On the down side.....I did see very small red hairs here and there.....unfortunately. Heavier leaf strip on Wednesday and have continued through out as rotating her in the tent under the light. Took off probably 25%. Took off a few more of those fan leaves down low that I when removing bud sites. She is long and lanky so don’t feel side lighting is much of an issue. She is dark in my opinion and hope she will continue to feed and work through all that nitrogen. I didn’t realize how many purple streaks she has on some stocks. She was also given a feeding this week with Epsom Salts. A lot of red on one of the the other plants so worked Magnesium Sulphate in that way. I think I could have gone harder on the CalMag earlier and/or introduced epsom salt earlier as well. Changed the light schedule this week. Moved her to 19 hours of light because she is not falling to sleep at lights out. I know that I could have the lights closer but given how Skywalker has grown I can’t lower them as much as I would like. Will try compensating with longer daylight period.😉 Worth a try! Have seen other Mephisto comments where they say run 24hrs......not my style though. Will keep up Liquid Weight and Rezin to the end and see how she is as a result. Not used these supplements before. Not sure if I will use AN Flawless Finish this run or not? Little more detail: Jan 27/20 - Day 50 - Feed: 2L - Sensyzime @ 2ml, Liquid Weight @ 1.5ml = 45ppm 6.0pH - plain water. She is showing brown spots on leaves. High Potassium?? Lots with supplimentals. Jan 28/20 - Day 51 - 2L: Rezin @ 2ml, CalMag & LW8 @ 1.5ml = 360ppm. Left a lower pH this feed. - Used heavier CalMag today as purple stems is increasing.....looking at using Epsom Salts. - striped some leaves today...heavier than normal.......think it was 5 😄 Jan 29/20 - Day 52 - full feed today as listed above. - 5L - 1125ppm with 6.2pH....low pH trying to raise it by lots of run off with 5L. - runoff: 950ppm with 5.6pH - There is a lot of branch on this girl.....continued the leaf strip though and took more today. - Evening - 2L plain water 6.4pH............figured if I am going to over water her I may as well try and raise the pH more. *******this should have been about 12 litres of water given the way I was going about it.......or let the pot dry out completely first. Jan 30/20 - Day 53 - 2L feed: Epsom Salt @ 1tsp/G, Rezin & LW8 @ 1.5ml, Dual Fuel A and B @ 1ml = 1000ppm 6.15pH - used Epsom Salt today. - They were very happy today in the morning. Swelling up. - They are not falling to sleep at night so moving to 19 hours light. First day. Jan 31/20 - Day 54 - Feed: 2L - Sensyzime @ 2ml/L - 30ppm 6.15pH - plain water feed today. Sensyzime to clean up the roots. - She keeps chugging along with growth and packing on some growth now. Looking awesome actually!! - She reacted well to Epsom Salts......or didn’t negatively react - Colas forming larger and longer. Feb 1/20 - Day 55 - dry out day. Nothing at all today. Pots felt heavy all day - She is very happy in evening. All leaves up on almost all buds....very nice! Filling in cola too! FROST on fan leafs......may have to press her fan leaves:) Feb 2/20 - Day 56 - pot nice and dry today. She was happy this morning and given a large feed. - 4L of full strength for the week. - run off 1080ppm and 5.85pH......Hmmmm, I like it:) - Pots were really light in AM. - See very little red hairs. Still mainly nice straight shinny white.....keep going girl.....no rush! Looking forward to bringing this girl to the end and watching her swell......fingers crossed😁 Hope your garden is making your smile fellow growers....cheers!

31.3 F50 2L of water for each plant. Last two weeks of flowering starting, happy happy :) 3.4 F53 1L of water for each plant, seems like the plants are starting to drink less and less. Which is totally okay by me, no need for water every 2 days. Other than that I lowered lights like 5cm since there isn't that much flowering time left, might as well "blast" em with the whole 70 watts lol. 5.4 F55 Lots of small creepy crawlers in the pots. Took a video of predator mite strolling around the fabric pot!

Pics are from day 19, which is the day I topped all the plants. Topped them for a second time a little early - should have waited a couple of days for the new growth. No real damage done though and a lesson learned. Topped to the 3rd node, stripping everything below, and topped each "stork" at the next node creating 4 main branches per plant. Seen a little cal deficiency, but increasing the feed concentration to 2.5ml p/l of each will nutrient type sort that out in the coming week. Will be transplanting to 5 gallon pots in the coming week, once the plants have bounced back from the heavy mainlining techniques they've just been through.

the water coming out of the coco is anoying i have to build something to catch the water 6-9 formula

Note : Jegliches Equipment aufgelistet welches ich nutze findet Ihr in der Germinations Woche !!! Day 15 : ich weiss noch nicht ob der mineralische dünger wirklich sofort etwas gebracht hat . schauen wir was die zeitraffer so vermitteln. ist es seit gestern schneller am wachsen ? Day 16 : PPFD 275 * 20h = DLI 19.8 Day 17: + 0.5L Flaschenwasser (EC 0.26) + + Canna Rizothonic + + Canna Terrar Vega + = Total EC 0.68 (PH 7.2) + Final PH 6.15 Day 18: es wächst Day 19: es wächst immer noch ventilation übern blätterdach angemacht. ich glaub daher kommt das ruckeln im video Day 20: + 0.5L Flaschenwasser (EC 0.26) + + Canna Rizothonic + + Canna Terrar Vega + = Total EC 0.68 (PH 7.2) + Final PH 6.15 + 0.5L Leitungswasser (PH 8.0) Der Stamm hat sich in den letzten 3 Tagen verdreifacht vom Volumen. Jetzt hat er so Bleistift dicke erreicht. Day 21: die temps und relative luftfeuchte sind hier zwischen 58%-68% und 23.5°-25.5°C . reguliert sich aber immer zu den höheren werten . ist hier halt so :))

Raised lights today as they go AG#5 is stretching 33" and was getting a little close for comfort, did a little bottom trimming this week but not enough to count as defoliating, otherwise just feeding a bit more & continuing to flower, some light bud color is starting to show. Also added some Dyna-Gro Zyme to clean the roots.

So far so good, the light is at the end of this week at level 100% capacity They are stretching quiet nicely 👍

Hey folks. Into week 6. Not much happening. Just letting the girls settle back in after the windstorm have em a good whipping. Just standard watering when needed and some lst here and there.

All great. Not lots of sun but not much rain either. Watering is tricky as I have to tilt each one so as not to waste feed and water. Getting the right balance of too little or too much with be a challenge

There is very little to do with the plants, they are getting fatter by the day and frostier by the day. I found out I was giving them way too much nutrient so I started giving them 0.4 EC less (its still a work in progress). The lights are still on 85%. It is starting to smell more and more sour and there is also a fresh lemon smell coming from it now.

Ok folks, gunna be one armed for another 6 weeks so I'm just the conductor the true heroes will go unseen. Everything is alive atleast, had a scare yesterday as things got so dried out everything went limp but an hour after feed turned back around. Noticed some yellowing and other coloring coming thru on alot of leaves so I bumped ppm up a little bit this last feed. They dont look like they have a deficiency, it's weird, they look beautiful but with a premature fade almost. I really like Green Buzz' line up/regiment I just have to dial it in which isnt easy since it's a multi strain crop and various size plants. It's very easy to use and makes me feel good knowing it's not poison. Did a minor leaf strip around the tent just to make things fit better. I'll copy and paste this to the diaries for the rest of the crop per usual but go into a little more detail on each plant individually. Pics and vids were taken on day 28 of flower. I'm trying to keep up with these as best I can from start to finish, the flip date was 6.10.19, today is 7.9.19 #1 is a absolute beast and growing much better all around than my first run with her. I actually cant believe how much better it looks this time around the buds are much fuller at this point than last time. Shes been underwatered since she dries out so much quicker than everything else but despite that shes still thriving. #2 is a xmas tree, trying not to defoliate too much but had to pluck a few for space. I think she'll be a hefty lady. #3 is a runt and if anyone was paying attention early it was the one that wasnt growing vertical so I cut the head off and then she started growing correct. Shes a little further behind in development but coming alot. The weird thing is that both of the runts are the only ones in the crop in a different medium so I wonder if that's contributing to the fuckery. My girlfriend took the pictures and I think shes better than me at it

Them issues with the haze xl really upset me wate of tome effort and money so im not impressed with 1st impressions of sweetseeds im sorry but we have to be honest im this community would you not agree but on the plus all my fastbuds 100% success

Hab ein wenig umgetopft gebunden mit Bio bizz gedüngt 75% nach Plan 10% drain . Ph hab ich mit ta ph - Dazu gab's ein wenig Magnesium kalk

Hi!!!! week #12. 1-2 weeks lefts Im waiting for the lower buds to fully flower. Stopped fertilizing 1 week ago, harvest is coming. ...........

def

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Not much to say ive grown 35 of these now lol