Welcome to Flower Week 1 of Divine Seeds Auto Fractal I'm excited to share my grow journey with you all as part of the Divine Seeds Autoflowering Competition 2025. It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this competition, I’ve chosen the Feminized Automatic strain: Auto Fractal Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Divine Seeds • 💧 Humidity Range: 50 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 60 Days • Strain Info: 23%THC • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 0.5l • Nutrient Brand: Narcos • ⚡ Lights : 200W x 2 A huge thank you to Divine Seeds for allowing me to be a part of this amazing competition and Sponsoring the Strains. Big thanks for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!

im ceasing all nitrogen now. i can see its now starting to turn leaves yellow. buds are fat and chunky. at least 6 cm across with new expansion going on. lots of orange hairs coming...really looking sharp.

Second gusher flushed for harvest this coming weekend the other I pulled a week ago is dry and trimmed taste great!!

Easy trim✂️ The buds are super sticky & dense⚡️ The smell is Absolutely DIVINE,flowery sweet & orange🤤🍊🌸

This week was full of ups and downs,,smiles and frowns,,,due to some early LST,,I managed to pop a couple branches off,,which is always frustrating but at the same time,,interesting and challenging,,so I will let her do her thing for a week or so,,and then look at how I’m going to shape her,,might be a blessing,,🤞🤞🙏

Okay Madame LemonPaya Ltd.by FastBuds is history now haha. I am still a beginner, this is my second photoperiodic strain. Started growing in May 2023. And it was an Experiment, first time in coco with Autopots. Did a lot of mistakes at the beginning but catched her and send her into flower. The lower buds are Rock hard too, this was a little plant in a small pot, so i am happy with the end result. 647 wet trimmed and without stems/leaves. Is in my Cannatrol now for only 6 days. I will Post the dry weight in 6 days. Thanks to Terra Aquatica, FastBuds and Bionova. I will use your products again!

First full on flower week for these, they seem really f-ing quick for some reason, maybe it's the smart protein ... At this rate i'm gonna have an august harvest fully 12 weeks from seed lol, i'm not holding my breath because i'm realistic, but that would be f-ing nice as shit lol anyway i'm just following these ladies' cycle and giving some flower nutrients as well as some flower specific micro , had some bioflo around so just used that - didnt really over think this one, i'm just enjoying the show, sneaked into their room while they were sleeping to snap some pics , pretty dramatic with the lighting , hope you enjoy these ! Just a word before I let you go : i do "touch up" these photos by clicking the magic wand on my phone's camera function, so if these appear "too much" or "too light" or whatever, just let me know i'll save time and effort , like i said, hope you enjoy these 🚀

today was meant to be the day i flip but as my ppms and ph off run off are not correct i am waiting a couple of days to see if i can fix the issue before flipping week 7 - feeding 600-650ppms - PH 5.5 - Run off PPMS drop to 280-300 - PH rises to 7.1PH, in the morning i am going to try and feed with a higher concentrate of nutrient something like 750ppms with a ph of 5.5 and see if my run off ppms come out higher and continue to do so until i get them in a ideal range.. if that does not fix the problem or run off still comes out really low then i think i could have a salt build up in the medium therefore i am going to just flush with plain ph water to reset the medium, but as you can see my plant does not seem to be suffering anything to worry about really she seems happy but it would give me the piece of mind knowing my girl is within correct ppm/ec range for flower flip so i can up the light intensity also! question.? - anyone ever fed 3L-3.3L of water in 70/30 coco perlite to actually get the run off to start coming out the bottom off thats what im feeding every morning is this normal i did read online GG is a thirsty plant, if i was to pour 2L - 2.8L i wouldn't get any run off does this tell me shes thirsty for more LOL Happy Growing!

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 28 Just a quick update for this morning since I had to move the ties a little. LST, I now have them above the 3rd node branches. Stats are normal and the growth tips are turning upward now. Stats 73F/ 63% RH /IL Vent at 33% - Lights also same as before 345ppfd highest, 330 center, and 315 at lowest. No need for adjustment. She seems to be taking the training well. Day 29 Water day - checked last night and decided it was time again - Water by weight again so no runoff to measure at about 4 cups. (4 days since last feed by weight) 13lbs even par is 15lbs 4oz so I prepared 2lbs 4oz of water. Tested my meter and discovered it needed calibration (the temp is off and cant be calibrated - so I used a trusty meat thermometer. started with 4ppm and added 300ppm of epsom and vegmix ph balanced to 6.34 at 69.8F - then splashed with H2O2. Poured around roots and splashed the stem base - sprayed some on the leaves and use the whole amount. Had to adjust lights now to be brighter so I brought them down to 18.5" and ppfd is now 375highest 360 center and 345 at lowest. VPD is normal at 1.0 with 73F /63% RH /33% IL Vent - fans are pointed to directly now as the leaves are starting to get rough feeling - so I moved them a bit to blow less directly Training is doing good nice upward turn on the training (making small LST movements with the ties other than than... just letting it make new branches. Day 30 Checked PH and got 5.0 on my meter(+1.25 tested differential = 6.25) Stats normal too - 73F /64% RH /33% IL Vent - Lights at 385highest 370 center and 355 at lowest Removed cross ties since they are no longer needed to hold the fan leaves- training still looking nice as the new nodes are formed with 2nd node leaves growing already. Day 31 Identified an issue this morning - went back through my pictures, identified the start, looked at the day before, and noted my changes that I took notes on at that time. Went to google to diagnose a few possible hypothesis and am now testing with a treatment. (suggestions from more experienced growers welcome) This morning the issue was brown spots on the older fan leaves. Mostly just the left fan leaf. Seems to have started 2 days ago (day 29) when I changed the lights and fed her. When I fed her, I left water droplets on the leaves instead of drying them off after a short time (I had been drying them with a tissue after a wet pic. The fans were also adjusted after the lights were dropped closer as well. Hypothesis: I think the water was magnifying the light and caused light stress at the those spots. I dont think the wind of the fan had much to do with it other than they helped dry the leaves faster as noted by the water being completely gone by the time I took pictures later that night for measurements. Test: Raised my lights to a max of 350ppfd (from 385 highest reading this morning) Had to adjust fans again since they rest on my lights. Will observe looking for improvement over the next few days. ... another possibility was given to me by Guru @Roberts (thank you) as it possibly being a ph issue locking out calcium. So I thought I might test ph and then try diluted cal/mag in a spray if my soil is too low (also looked at pics and seen VERY close similarities in my pics and those) and so on that advice, I tested/calibrated my soil meter (it FINALLY calibrated for me!)I found my soil was avg of 3 readings at 5.153 (5.08,5.09,and 5.29) NOT GOOD - potentially locking out most all nutes. I weighed out about 2 cups of purified water with and added about half ml of CalMag, ph balanced the water to 6.5 at 69.7F (my research shows Calcium lockout starting at 6.3 or lower) and splashed with H2O2 - I poured most around the base and sprayed the leaves too. I made sure to use the whole solution by pouring the last of the solution in the spray bottle over the stem and stem base. EOD follow-up Found a possible calcium blockade in my ph and on my leaves (of which are now starting to curl so I placed my fans on oscillate to ensure they aren't doing more damage) --- fully documented now. otherwise measurements are now documented too. -- second node is starting to pull away from the last top so I will be looking to top again (3rd of possibly 4 total) and then HST and bind in a new spot Day 32 Doing a morning and evening check her now while I see this issue resolved. So far no sign of improvement since last night - might have gotten worse in comparison (will check pics side by side today) but I think because it's a immobile micronutrient so it should take time to stop then reverse. So in the mean time I am doing a slurry test as a 2nd test for my soil before I treat it. I took soil from 3 different spots and made sure I got some from about 4 inches deep in each spot (ensured calibrations were still good with buffer tests) 1st test is a PH meter tested directly in the soil. After using the 2 cups of 6.3 yesterday I got 3 readings today = 5.47, 5.32, and 5.5 to avg 5.43 - (yesterday's readings prior to treatment were 5.08, 5.09, and 5.29 to avg 5.153) - still far below the normal 6 to 7 for soil and the requirement of 6.3 and above for calcium to enter roots. suggesting again lockout. So while I am checking the plant conditions I also looked at the new nodes - 2nd node is starting to pull away from the first, but not quite enough to top yet - thinking I will be able to top tomorrow evening - should be able to correct the ph tonight, so I can see if there's results in that by then as well. I also set the fans to oscillate last night, so here's a video for that now. Measurements, ppfd, and vpd will be in tonight's check-up Day 32 So I started this evening by testing the run off with 2 meters, 5.7 and 5.67 - prepared 1 gallon of 7.5 ph water and splashed with H2O2 (checked with both meters) Before flushing, I documented the leaves again - still curled and look very dry but they still have some flexibility with them - they dont seem to getting any worse so the spray may have gotten enough to the leaves most affected. The new nodes and growth tips seem to be okay but not growing as fast as they were. That would still mean that the soil needs treatment before the roots begin to die off and I end up with stunted growth overall. SO I flushed the whole gallon and noted the runoff from the sides and bottom. I then tested the soil directly with 3 readings 5.95, 5.8, and 5.73 for avg 5.826 and tested the runoff water with 2 separate meters for 5.91 and 5.85 Not sure if I should feed dunk in 7.5 still or just use that number on the next feed in like 3 or 4 days. will discuss Other than that ppfd highest is 360, 350 at center, and 330 at lowest. VPD was 1.0 with temp at 74F /63% RH /33% IL Vent Growth tips could be ready to top again tomorrow night, but I would like the get the ph taken care of first. Day 33 Started the day by noticing the lower branches seem to stop turning and the next level branches seemed to have finally turned but nearly as fast as the first. (Noticed them having a start yesterday) Newer branches dont have any signs of issues. So the plan today is to make Bloom Juice for later. Feed Dunk with 100% Veg Juice at a ph of 7.3 test runoff and ppm. Top the 4 nodes and remove the lower leaves. Calcium issue or not, that was always the plan with main-linning the plant. However, because of the health issues, I dont think I am going to go past these 8 colas - rather instead I will simply stop here and do some HST to set them how I want them to grow and let her recover and finish her veg for about two or three weeks. Dunk had 300ppm of Epsom, Veg juice, in a little over 3 gallons of purified water. I had 7.4 ph and splashed with h2o2. I pushed the entire plant into the water and soaked for a few seconds. Drained by hanging the pot up for about 10 minutes and the stream started dripping instead. Checked the runoff with 2 meters 6.01 and 5.93 with 2580ppm. Then I topped all four nodes and removed the fan leaves from under my mainline. I used LST to finger press the new branches apart into the direction I plan to move them to get the nodes powering up. Next I will wait for a day to do HST on those new branches. Tonight I will simply let her rest. VPD still at 1.0 - 73F /63% RH /33% IL Vent - Lights are at 365 highest, 355 center, and 335 lowest. No need to measure for growth now as I dont plan to top anymore Day 34 Early entry to day for HST the morning after topping. So I started off the morning checking stats and health. PH levels are still low. 3 soil meter tests 5.41, 5.41, and 5.44 for an avg of 5.42 - kinda at a loss here but can only monitor now. VPD and lights are mostly the same - 74F /63% RH / 33% IL Vent - VPD not relevant today as the settings are the same and I am using HST to change the plant position. leaves are noted for future reference - all four lower fan leaves have signs of calcium deficiency but not progressing nearly as fast as the first two did, so I think my attempts via higher ph water and feed may have helped. (I know the microbes in the soil are supposed to help get past ph issues , but mine seem to not be heathy) HST used a cuticle rod from my wife's nail case and a paint stick to press the rod against the branches and smash the inside of the elbows I want to bend. LST I then cut 4 strips of garden wire at the same length, hooked the ends like candy canes and aligned them about 1/2 inch above the new node and into the soil. From the side they look level but have the leaves now facing sideways. They will turn in a day or two.

Blueberry Muffin was also chopped on day 64. It never seemed to take off and was the smallest and weakest in the tent. Honestly it was out of frame in so many pictures just because it was embarrassingly small. The terps never really became the Blueberry Muffin that was promised. At most, there is a sweet cedar hardwood spice smell, kind of like men's cologne, on top of a classic dank weedy taste. There's a hint of something like pastry crust when I smell it in the bag. It does kind of remind me of a classic well rounded smoke from decades ago. One friend even preferred this strain over the others in the grow due to the simple classic flavor... not me though, I rank this 3rd out of the 3 harvests so far. It was tiny and so was the yield, with the official weight coming in at 20g. It was truthfully a little less on the scale but I also tested more than a gram, so I'm calling it an even 20. I'll definitely try this again sometime, I support HSC and think they have quality genetics, I don't want this to sour my perception of them.

Semana 9 de floracion.

They are taller than me now... I think they stretched. I am insanely excited to see these ladies go to flowering. The veg stage is completely out of control! You can see that I've added a soak hose to the garden to later the roots over night. I want to make sure the roots receive total saturation to bring nutes all the way down to the deep roots.

Today on day 17 from date of birth Iam preparing a worm casting tea. In a cheese cloth bag ,Made up of 2 cups of worm castings 2 tablespoons of unsulfured molasses,2 tablespoons of mineralized phosphate (bat shit) ,2 tablespoons of soluble seaweed extract . 2 tablespoons of alfalfa meal 2 tablespoons of all purpose 4-4-4 all Gia green products other than. I also sprinkled in some great white premium mycorrhizae inton2 gallons of water. Tea will brew for 24 hours before applying.

July 4th - safely into week 7. Solid growth and development to this point. Lets see how she stands up now that the pattern is laid-out - last fed on the 30th; 1gal - next meal is from the Water part of the food cycle; nute - nute - water - amended the soil with 2” Worm Castings, scratched it in to the soils surface - pulled a set of leaves off of each branch, exposing the middle nodes. New growth on each branch. Here we go! July 5th - rain has fallen, and the plant was partially protected. Wait and see if it has affected tonights Dinner. We are in the water portion of the Meal cycle; Nute-Nute-Water. Posted above - compost is ready after months. Leaf / Soil mix added to the pot at dark. July 7 - fed 1 gal of a Grow Microbe, Enzyme and Molasses-based dinner. Full list of ingredients Posted above - this week is proving to be instrumental in Establishing the shape and kicking the growth into Gear !!! Chunky dinner had to be diluted… lol grow buddy grow - someone asked about the LST techniques I use: wire, branch bending etc. Inposted 2 quik videos on how the Cali Crasher had acquired and held those curves 9th - I saw an opportunity to make one more similar move on the plant, with the same style of LST training. Once again I extended the 6 upward facing branches, straight outward; first thing this morning. 10th - fed 2.5 Litres of Nute cycle. With Grow Microbes oops, looks like we make the water-meal, Next

They were switched to 12/12 this week as there in my flowering tent . Hopefully they won't mind to much! Still not given them any food!

February, 14th. San Fernando Valley Plants are vigor Growers Next Week on Tuesday they are 14 Days old, and already working on Leafset #5💪 They will get a transplant next week too I topped them 2 Days ago, and in the coming Days I go on with topping and perform some LST Atm They just get Water with beneficals, and Iam spraying them with " Fast Plants Spray" It seems they like their Envoirement.

✨ And just like that, Ms. Purple’s final feeding week has officially come to a close! She’s smelling absolutely divine right now, so fragrant that you can’t even walk past the tent without getting smacked in the face by her delicious aroma 😋🍌🌸 She got cleaned lightly before these pics. I checked her trichomes again and boom we’ve hit that sweet spot we’ve been waiting for! Starting this week, we’re ditching the nutrients and giving her that clean, smooth finish with a proper Flawless Flush 🚿💎 It’s truly been a joy raising this big girl. Learned a lot, laughed a lot, and she definitely kept things exciting from start to finish! Thanks for rocking with me through this journey! Happy new month & happy growing 💚🌿

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 25°C to 35°C depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 40°C, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently. E=MC2 looks like a simple multiplication problem; it describes a fundamental physical truth: mass and energy are the same thing. The equation doesn't just calculate a value; it reveals that mass is effectively "congealed" energy. Energy is just numbers. Energy isn't a physical "substance" you can hold or touch. It is essentially an abstract, calculated number that we assign to a system to predict how it will change, interact, or move. A numerical label we attach to matter to track how it behaves. Because the universe runs on laws of symmetry (specifically, that the laws of physics don't change over time), a single global number must be conserved. We call that number "energy". We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversion. How well a seedling grows is essentially down to how much knowledge one can acquire to increase the level of conversion to occur. Applying knowledge effectively requires intuition, which comes from hands-on experience. A seasoned stoner learns to read subtle signs—like a slight change in leaf turgor (stiffness), subtle color shifts, or the specific texture of the soil—before a textbook diagnosis can be made. Ultimately, growing is the application of botanical science blended with active observation. Knowledge dictates your potential, but adaptability and attentiveness to the plant's immediate environment determine your results. 1.618 nature mathematically optimizes quantum energy transfer and light absorption efficiency within the photosynthetic machinery, as it naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. External vibration or electromagnetic wave that perfectly matches a plant's natural frequency directly influences plant growth. Low-frequency sound waves and targeted electromagnetic fields stimulate cellular processes and boost photosynthetic efficiency Does it produce better yields? How long is a piece of string? As long as you cut it. But isssss the juice worth the squeeze? The quantum framework of the IVM seems to think so. Good enough for the quantum firmware, good enough for the DNA software. Genetics are not dictated; they are expressed; the rate of that expression is dictated by the environment in which growth occurs. Quantum Coherence in Photosynthesis occurs When a photon of sunlight strikes a leaf, the energy it carries must travel to a reaction center to be converted into chemical energy. This process operates at nearly 100% efficiency. If the energy moved in a traditional "bunching" or random hopping manner, a large portion of it would be lost as heat. Instead, plants utilize quantum superposition. The energy particle (exciton) doesn't just take one path; it exists in a wave state and explores multiple pathways simultaneously. It essentially "chooses" the most efficient route to the reaction center simultaneously. Research shows that molecular vibrations and the specific network arrangements of chlorophyll molecules (like the naturally evolved Chlorophyll A & B ratios) actively protect against energy overflow, optimizing light capture across different light intensities. Enzymes are the biological catalysts that speed up chemical reactions within a plant's cells, allowing them to grow, metabolize, and repair. Rather than relying solely on the classical kinetic energy of molecules colliding, plants use quantum tunneling. Subatomic particles like electrons and protons (hydrogen ions) can literally "teleport" through energy barriers that they normally wouldn’t have the energy to climb over. This makes vital metabolic reactions happen far faster than classical physics could ever explain. Chloryphyll b has peak absorption at 460nm (Blue) and at 647nm(Red). If we take the blue peak wavelength 460nm and a UV-B, UVR8 peak absorption wavelength 285nm, Tryptophan-285 (W285) Sensing protein. 460/285=1.618 Φ If we take chlorypyhll b's Red absorption peak 647nm and a UV-A of 400nm, we get 647/400=1.618 Φ. "Structure of light". The cryptochrome photoreceptor (CRY) is a UV-A/blue light receptor that shares this dual sensitivity with several other biological structures and functions, including significant sequence similarity and a common evolutionary ancestor with DNA photolyase enzymes. These are light-activated enzymes that use blue/UV-A light to repair DNA damage caused by UV-B radiation in plants. Synergistic. But Shhh, it's a secret. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΦPSII, represents the proportion of light absorbed by Photosystem II (ΦPSII) that is actually used in photosynthetic electron transport. It is a key indicator of how efficiently a plant is using light for photosynthesis, as opposed to losing it as heat or fluorescence. ΦPSII (effective quantum yield of photosystem II) functions primarily as a "multiplier" (a coefficient of efficiency) rather than an additive factor when estimating the overall photosynthetic electron transport rate (ETR). Multipliers are considered far more beneficial than additions because they generate exponential growth, leverage existing resources to their full potential, and create sustainable, self-multiplying capacity, rather than just incremental, linear increases. This fascinating observation is rooted in the intersection of subatomic geometry, fractal scaling, and quantum dynamics. In specific molecular arrangements—such as in conjugated polymer networks or biomolecular architectures—the Golden Ratio (PHI) naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. Mathematically tied to the fine-structure constant, which defines the strength of the electromagnetic interaction. The Golden Ratio can be mapped geometrically as the Golden Angle (137.5 degrees) in atomic structures, linking the charge of the electron to fundamental quantum constants like Planck's constant. Electromagnetic. The Golden Angle (137.5): This angle is derived from the Golden Ratio (1.618). It is the smaller of two angles created when a circle is divided such that the ratio of the arcs equals the Golden Ratio.

my dry and cure style is this: 4 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 4 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. buds are one of the hardest as fucking rocks type of buds! very dense , compact , sticky , smelly , amazing at every aspect growing stage was 60 days and flowering stage was 70 days total (harvested tops at day 63th) the total weight of dry buds was : top buds 174 G + lower buds 55 G = 229 G my overview of strain with details: the seeds: unfortunately i only got 1 seed cracked out of 5 so i will not know how much this genetic can get different but at least i got the chance to grow once of this wonderful strain the plant : in every stage you can ensure that you are dealing with a high level plant , she will get big so you have to control her height LST and SCROG highly recommended , will grow very well with tick stalks and big fan leaves , has good resistance for stress and will respond very well to stress trainings , she really has gorilla power in herself , fresh buds on plant : buds are very compact and dense even from start , fresh blossoms smells like pineapple and mango , 2 different shades of sweet smells like you hold 2 junks of pineapple and mango in your hand and you smell them together, she is a trichome and resin factory , very very sticky , very oily , strong smell dried buds: very compact and dense , hard as rocks , has dark colors with purple hues inside it , it smells sweet smoke : very smooth and sweet like lollipop , pineapple , mango like , after 2 minutes it'll kick in and you'll get higher and higher with every breath , has a strange and especial high mind high mostly