Hey ihr Lieben! Nach 10 Tagen Trocknung habe ich das Curing begonnen. Die Äste haben geknackt und mir signalisiert, dass sie bereit sind. Nach 5h Handarbeit war ich dann fertig. Mega anstrengend :P! Aber hat sich sehr gelohnt :). Trotz das ich dieses Mal anstatt mit mineralischem Dünger mit einem ein Komponenten-Dünger gedüngt habe (Hesi Bio-Bloom), habe ich sogar mehr herausbekommen... Bin sehr zufrieden :). Nach dem Curing habe ich das Material in die Terplocbags gepackt und lasse sie nun dort schön fermentieren - das hat letztes Mal sehr gut geklappt und kann ich nur empfehlen. Danke an alle die mich bei meinem 2ten Run begleitet haben, ihr seid die Besten! Mir hat es auch mega Spaß gemacht und ich freue mich schon darauf, meinen 3ten Run mit euch zu teilen - mehr Infos dazu kommen bald.

LJ4Q23 Flower 9 SOP LJ4Q23 - 8-Plant SOG from Cuts Harvest Window - Earliest: 2024.02.01 - Latest: 2024.02.10 Objective: - 8 Plants - Single Colas - No Branches - Harvest Lemon Jeffery (Narrow Leaf Phenos): 70±5 days - Light Intensity - Ramp up from 200 - 40 DLI, at 13 hour ScotoPeriod, will need MAX Light to Achieve ______________________________________ Start of Week: [ 2023-01-24, LJ4Q 57:F:8:1] End of Week: [ 2024-01-30, LJ4Q 63:F:8:7] Plant Height: [ 21, in] Temp: [ 78, °F] RH: [ 61, %] VPD: [ 1.2, kPa] Light Intensity Peak: [ 850 , µMol/m2/s] Light Distance: [ 11, in] Environment Targets (Flower 7 - 9): - Scotoperiod: [ 13, h] # Contiguous dark hours daily - TemperatureMax: [ 78, °F] - RH: [60, %] - VPD: [ 1.1, mS] - LightIntensityMax: [ 1000, µMol/m2/s] - LightDistance: [ 8, “] Fertigation Plan: - RLA Hydro Chart, EC 2.0 - 1.1 - Primer A: [ 6, ml, gal] - Primer B: [ 6, ml, gal] - Silica Skin: [ 2, ml, gal] - Resin Bloom: [ 2, ml, gal] Penultimate 3 Days (before Harvest) - RLA Resin Bloom, EC: 0.8 __ Wed Jan 24, 2024 LJ4Q 57:F:8:1 - [x] EC: [ 3.3, mS] - [x] Runoff: [ 500, ml], [ 62.5, plant], [ 15, %] Estimate 440 ml/plant/day (10% of Container Volume) Confirmed 1 min increase in event duration yields Runoff 200 ml/day @ 5 Minutes, we’re delivering 1 Liter per event, 6 Liters per day TOTAL, .75 Liter/Day/Plant Refresh Reservoir - [x] EC: 1.8, 2 Gal - [x] PrimerA: [ 9, ml, gal], [ 18, ml] - [x] PrimerB: [ 9, ml, gal], [ 18, ml] - [x] Silica Skin: [ 4.5, ml, gal], [ 9, ml] - [x] Resin Bloom: [ 4.5, ml, gal], [ 9, ml] - [x] Photosynthesis Plus: [ 6, ml, gal], [12, ml] - [x] Quillaja20 Powder: [ 0.5, tsp, gal], [ 1, tsp] - [x] SLF-100: [ 5, ml, gal], [10, ml] __ Thu Jan 25, 2024 LJ4Q 58:F:8:2 - [x] EC: [ 3.4, mS] - [x] Runoff: [ 600, ml], [ 62.5, plant], [ 15, %] - Reduce Fertigation Duration :30 per event Runoff Estimations - RunOff Total/Day: [ 500, ml] - RunOff per Container/Day: [62.5, ml] - Estimate 10% Irrigation/Day: [ 440, ml, plant] - Runoff %/Day: 62.5/440: 15% Estimated Deliver/Plant/Irrigation - Irrigation: [ 440, plant, day] - Runoff: [ 62.5, plant, day] - RunoffPCT: [ 15, %] - Total Irrigation/Day: 3.6, liters, Day (Just Shy of 1 Gal/Day) TempAvg: [ 79, °F ] RHAvg: [ 59, % ] VPD: [ 1.12, kPa ] PPFDAvg: [ , ] LightDistance: __ Fri Jan 26, 2024 LJ4Q 59:F:8:3 - [x] ECReservoir: [ , mS] - [x] Runoff: [ 600l+, ml], [ , plant], [ , %] - [x] ECRunoff: [ 3.4, mS] __ Sat Jan 27, 2024 LJ4Q 60:F:8:4 - [x] Back off Light 1” (3 Clicks) - [x] Runoff: [ 600, ml], [ , plant], [ , %] - [x] ECRunoff: [ 3.5, mS] __ Sun Jan 28, 2024 LJ4Q 61:4:F:8:5 - [x] Runoff: [ 500, ml] - [x] ECRunoff: [ 3.3, mS] - [x] Med (2.7) chart for EC: 1.5 - [x] Primer A: [ 8, ml, gal], [ 16, ml] - [x] Primer B: [ 8, ml, gal], [ 16, ml] - [x] Silica Skin: [ 5, ml, gal], [ 10, ml] - [x] Resin Bloom: [ 6, ml, gal], [ 12, ml] EC: [ 1.6, mS] __ Mon Jan 29, 2024 LJ4Q 62:F:8:6 - [x] Runoff: [ 500 , ml] - [x] ECRunoff: [ 3.3, mS] __ Tue Jan 30, 2024 LJ4Q 63:F:8:7 Refill Res: ~2 gal - Primer A - Primer B - Silica Skin - Resin Bloom EC: [ 1.3, mS] - [x] Runoff: [ 475 , ml] - [x] ECRunoff: [ 3.3, mS]

Les hago una defoliación cada 2 días para que los nuevos brotes tengan bastante luz. Empiezo con revienta cogollos a media dosis. He alzado la más pequeña que se queda atrás, la más grande la voy doblando sin problemas. De momento siguen creciendo.

Erntetag:- Herstellerangaben: Ernte an BT 56-63 - Ernte hier: BT 71 Lampe Leistungsverlauf in % (von 190W) über den Grow und dazugehörige Durchschnitts-PPFD Werte: - BW1-3: 40-60%, langsamer Anstieg von ca 400 auf 650 PPFD - BW 4: 60%, ca 650 PPFD - BW 5: 65% ca 700 PPFD - BW 6-8: 75%, ca 800 PPFD - BW 9: 70%, ca 750 PPFD - BW 10: 60%, ca 600 PPFD Trichome: - Ernte bei circa 80% Milchig, 10% Klar und 10% Bernstein Trocknung: - Tag 1-2: 17°C, 60% RLF

Smell is starting to increase

Wenn sie so weiter macht muss ich mir Gedanken um ein höheres zelt machen 😆 der strech ist heftig!!!!! Ich bin echt gespannt 💪

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!guckt euch letzen Report an !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Blüte hat begonnen: Edit:11.05 Die Pflanzen sind innerhalb von 2 Tagen explodiert. Ich habe das Licht nun auf 75 Prozent gestellt und noch einmal Cal-Mag nachgegeben, da die letzte Gabe nur eine halbe war. Die beiden Titan sehen fast identisch aus. Die beiden Epsilon sind circa 3 Tage unterschiedlich, eine ist etwa 5 cm kleiner als die andere und hat noch kaum Blüten. Ich denke, in 3 Tagen wird das der Fall sein. Die Cosmos F1 ist im Umfang circa 50-50 cm, kaum Blüten bisher. Ich hoffe, sie wird nicht noch viel größer, da der Platz langsam eng wird. Ich bin von dem Wachstum dieser Pflanze absolut begeistert. Mal gucken, was die Blüte bringt. Edit ende Ich habe alle Blüten entfernt, die nicht im direkten Licht sind, und alle Blätter, die die Blüten bedecken. Die Pflanzen weisen einen Cal-Mag-Mangel auf, was bei der Blüte normal ist, gerade bei diesem Licht. Ich habe dem Gießwasser etwas Cal-Mag hinzugefügt. Die Pflanzen sind drei Tage älter als im letzten Report. letzte Woche : Die Pflanzen sind seit der Keimung auf diesen Fotos genau 30 Tage alt. Ich habe eine Pflanze ausgetauscht, da es sich um eine Epsilon F1 handelte, die vermutlich Mutationen aufwies. Sie hatte verkümmerte Blätter, die nicht wie die ihrer Artgenossen aussahen, und wuchs deutlich langsamer. Daher habe ich sie nach 2,5 Wochen ausgetauscht. Der kleine Mann(die ausgetauschte Pflanze) leidet natürlich jetzt ein bisschen unter Lichtstress, deswegen werde ich wohl nur eine sehr gestauchte Pflanze erhalten. Aber besser, als die Fläche leer zu lassen. So viel zu dem, was nicht funktioniert hat: Die Sanlight stand die ersten 2 Wochen auf 20 Prozent. Dann habe ich sie teilweise mit dem Dimmer höher gestellt: 2 Stunden auf 25 Prozent. Eine Woche später bin ich auf 30 Prozent und 2 Stunden mit 35 Prozent gegangen. Für Woche 4 habe ich 40 Prozent und 2 Stunden auf 45 Prozent gewählt. Ich erhoffe mir, die Pflanzen so schneller an die starken Lampen zu gewöhnen. Im Nächsten grow soll bei jeder Pflanze die TDS per Infrarot gemessen werden. Da werde ich dann ein Experiment zu machen, wie die Lichtsteigerung am besten umzusetzen ist. Zu den Lampen kann ich bis jetzt nur Positives sagen. Im Gegensatz zur dazugehörigen App, diese ist wirklich nicht sehr gut umgesetzt. Das Menü und die Einstellungen sind teilweise irreführend und nicht sehr durchdacht. Ich muss mir immer wieder die Tutorials in der App ansehen, da diese immer wieder angezeigt werden. Noch dazu hätte ich gerne die Möglichkeit, mehr Einstellungen treffen zu können. Das ist aber Meckern auf hohem Niveau, weil auch die App das macht, was sie soll, nur eben meiner Meinung nach nicht sehr gut umgesetzt. Die Pflanzen wurden von mir mit Klipsen aus dem 3D-Drucker gestützt. Diese Klips kann man Stück für Stück im Winkel verstellen, so dass man die Triebe damit neigen kann. Das habe ich von Tag zu Tag im Winkel verstellt, so dass ich am Ende einen 45-Grad-Winkel habe. Das habe ich insgesamt über 6 Tage gemacht. Die Pflanzen haben an sich ein sehr gleichmäßiges Wachstum. Die Cosmos F1 wächst so optimal, dass kein LST mit den Klipsen nötig ist. Ich habe an den Pflanzen keine Mängel entdecken können und auch keine Anzeichen von Mutationen. Die Pflanzen haben im Durchschnitt eine Höhe von 35 cm, wobei eine etwas stärker abweicht mit 22 cm (wieder eine Epsilon F1). Der Umfang mit LST bei der Cosmos F1 liegt ohne LST bei 20 cm im Durchschnitt, wo wir wieder die Epsilon im Negativen haben mit 14 cm. Die Pflanzen wurden alle entlaubt, das eine Woche vor der Blüte. Morgen werden die Pflanzen erneut entlaubt und ge-lollipoppt. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!zusätliche infos werden morgen ergänzt + Fotos !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *1. Foto Mutation: Dieses Foto wurde nur 5 Minuten nach dem Umtopfen der Pflanze aufgenommen. Vorher stand sie in einem größeren Topf, in dem sie genauso aussah. Ich habe sie umgetopft, weil ich den Topf brauchte, aber die Pflanze nicht wegwerfen wollte. Der Pflanze geht es gut, aber sie sieht im Moment etwas mitgenommen aus. Bilder folgen

ab der Woche 3. (1.11.24) kriegen die Ladys ihren Dünger dieses mal von Advanced Nutrients das starter kit bin gespannt auf die Ergebnisse (gedüngt wird nach düngeshema)

Week 3 (14-2 to 20-2) 14-2 Watering: Gorilla Kush#1: 114 ml. Gorilla Kush#2: 117 ml. 15-2 Watering: None. No pictures. 16-2 Watering: Gorilla Kush#1: 119 ml. Gorilla Kush#2: 121 ml. 17-2 Watering: None. 18-2 Watering: None. Today i will transplant the plants, i will mix 70% Coco coir with 30% Perlite. The plants go into 18L AutoPots. I use the Airdome combined with an airstone. I covered half of the airdome with coco, and the remaining half with clay pebbles. The rest of the 18L pot filled with the coco mix, and the plants. I gave both plants a 1.5L topfeed, and into the tent they go! The light is at 70% strength, with a distance of 60 cm. 19-2 Temperature: 25.7 degrees (lights on) 20.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 45% (lowest) Watering: None. Light strength reduced to 60% 20-2 Temperature: 25.4 degrees (lights on) 20 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 50% (lowest) Watering: None.

Voilà dernier jour pour la bannana x purple punch à qui j ai mis un gros rinçage ;) les couleurs sont juste folle !! Mais j espère que la plante n aura pas le goût de son odeur (elle pue un truc dingue !!) Et on en arrive à ma chérie la west coast og !!! C EST JUSTE LA SOUCHE LA PLUS BELLE A MES YEUX !!!! et de loin sérieux regarder les photo !!! Une dinguerie et l odeur vraiment terreuse de kusch avec sont retour citroné !!! T est obligé d aimer...d adoré sa!! Pour ma part c est la variété de chez fast bud qui me plaît le plus !! 1=facile à faire pousser 2= presque pas de feuilles et pas besoin de lst ou autre . 3= CRISTALLISATIONS JUSTE MAGNIFIQUE 4= ODEUR DE KUSCH MAGNIFIQUE 5= T EN A TOUBOURS PAS COMMANDÉ ? TU DECONNE;) 5= POUR UNE PLANTE PRETE EN 9 SEMAINE LA RECILTE EST VRAIMENT SYMPA ET LES TÊTES DUR COMME LA PIERRE !!! GROSSE GROSSE SURPRISE SUR CEtTE VARIÉTÉ !!! VRAIMENT

Day 127. Oh boy it will be my longest grown plant indoors. This bean is from bagweed, just wanted to show, that from shitty weed found seed you can produce good result, but i screw up with this girl by having no space for her, by giving her to wrong guy ... And now again, i checked temps during my holidays and lowest was 13 , highiest 33 ... Very bad, she is from leafy pheno and that didnt helped for buds and leafy i dont like already, hate triming .... ;) Will do last hard training apart from everyday lst here and there , she will loose a bit of leaves tomorrow before watering just phed water. I never feed after training. Tomorrow she will go to new tent and i start new diary, hands full ;) Happy growing ! Day 128. Girl got small defoliation , up to 50 leaves, now more buds get light, have to prepare her for smaller , where i will fit only one light, otherwise its too hot inside .... All movement postponed for a bit, have to leave town so only phed water for her after new look. She drinks now like 5 liters every 3 days. Day 131 . She is stinky sticky b**ch ;)) Amazing plant, my mini bonza, would want to flaten her up, but in new tent fan has to have space aswel ;) Her new fan is delayed an i quess it will take a week to be redelivered ... Fingers crossed. Heavy feed - done. ;) Day 132. She starts to pack up a bit, maybe it will be something desent again. Girl is under two lights ( quantum boards 2x240) and in a week will stay just under 240 , but in new tight house with better reflection from walls, hope it will even pars , despite power loss .... I think i will smoke first joint on day 160, its almost half of the year, crazy adventure ... Her leaves are too green, so no silica and red leaves stemps doesnt show up, so no cal mag . Think she'll have like 2-3 feeds max in two weeks and then final strech ;)

12x polévkovou lžíci do 5 litr vody promíchál 😎 přidal sugr royal a bloom🌺😉😁

Just started this one off... Not much to say so far. This is a coco grow. I started off with an amended Coco using Gaia Green 4-4-4 and power bloom 2-8-4.

Última semana de mis plantitas Hoy corto 12 de 16 Fue un cultivo sin problemas. Y creo que viene buena producción Recomiendo 100% los fertilizantes hesi buenísimos. 5 cultivos con ellos y 0 problemas. El sustrato Biobizz light mix excelente Las semillas de barneys farm uff pura crema. Eva seeds recomendables y las sweed seeds buenisimas semillas para seguir cultivando. Los Led yxo para ser de un perfil bajo qué no a toda la gente les gusta cumplen la. Función 480w de pura potencia en un espacio de 120x120 los recomiendo para gente que tenga un presupuesto bajo. Ahora voy por unos sobre 600w aunque los reforzaría estos con unos led de 100w . Bueno feliz con los resultados. Esta semana mostraré los resultados de las plantas cortadas. Se vienen más cultivos Salu2

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

This strain was an absolute pleasure to grow. I’ll update in a week

Skipped a week so that the weeks in the diary were the same age as the new plants also took over my wife's aquaponics ak auto flower that is 4 weeks old so ill add that into the grow. The aquaponics plant was in rough shape it was showing huge signs of cal mag def. So I went to the local fish store and bought a cal mag substitute that's safe for fish also dropped the ph to 6.1 she had it at 7+ (not her fault ph metre broke )now plant looks great 1 week later after pulling off all affected leaves. Nothing new with the girl sco8t cookies except I fed today 1 gsc starting to lighting up

We arrive on the Last week of the L.A.kush from stranger'seeds, i love These Strain and how beautiful cola's u get, i also take two cuts from it, to grow the Genetic. I do have still a small blueafghan+ sourdiesel , Also I think one week more and they're ready to go