Such a wonderful plant. Great shape no stress (yet) stacking well and getting frosty. She has a great sweet smell with a definite berry fruit smell that leaves my mouth watering. Very different from the funk coming from the purple urkle.. Another thankful shout to lassos for putting me straight with my pH issues. If you want to know about it it's in my other diaries. All we need to know is PH is back to what it should be. That's all. Thanks for looking. Stay safe😷😷 Grow well🌱🌿🌼

White Chrystal Meth Auto 🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸 ~~~~04.20.23~~~~ “DAY 72 Above Ground” 📝Sunday 07.02.23 - This lady has lagged behind the others who started at the same time, they are in their projected harvest window, but feel they need another few weeks. 📝Wednesday 06.28.23 - The buds continue to pack on weight and ripen, the smell in the tent is amazing, fed with a Mayan tea from Humbolt Nutrients, loved the way it looked, they have great products. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸 🌱White Chrystal Meth Auto 👨‍🌾🏽Grown By: MrJones 🔆@medicgrow420 @originalsensibleseeds

Day 79 since seed touched soil. Like half of light is ocupied by this beauty. Mars Hydro TSL2000 is giving her all sun substitution needed . Neighbors started to put heating on, so i have heat issues again, temps go between 26 and 30 most. Hopefully terp wont overcook. Nights 19-20. Smell is strong, have flue, still can smell them :))) In plans 10-14 days more, but maybe ill chop in 7 ;)))) Day 83. Made video about last watering, tried to show great light, but no space at all, girls too tall for setup. 4 days left and i chop everything. Happy Growing !!!

Mittlerweile sind alle Pflanzen voll in der Blüte. Alle zwei Tage wird gegossen. Den kleinen Ventilator habe ich durch einen großen 40cm/50W ersetzt. Der hängt verkehrt rum an der Decke und sorgt für eine Luftzirkulation. Besonders in der Nacht wenn die Luftfeuchtigkeit auf 80% geht. Der Geruch wird etwas intensiver. Ein wenig LST wende ich noch an. Die Bieger lasse ich aber höchstens 2 Tage dran. Keine Lust das mir ein dritter Seitentrieb abbricht.

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

This past week seen some fattening of buds. Pretty much all vertical growth has stoped . Now she is focusing on putting weight on. This plant has been a absolute joy to grow to date. I've only encountered a small deff early on and that's it. What dose surprise me is the tricomes she's putting on. I have to bed honest, this is one of the most frosty plants I've grown. Sweet Seeds says it should be mature around the 60 day mark , so far it seems right on track with that mark.

With great joy I will start my second season growing cannabis. I hope to learn from some small mistakes from the first season where I was surprised by my performance as a first-time sailor cultivating the BlueDream strain. This season I left the 4 seeds of GorillaGlue 36hrs in a pot of water to break the dormancy. After that I used the napkin technique for more 42 hrs. So I put each one in a 5-gallon airpot, as they are automatic and go to harvest in the same pot. After 24hrs in the vase the first 2 little leaves came out. I made a homemade dome with a 2-gallon water bottle, cutting it into strips and lining it with plastic with some holes to keep the humidity high during this initial phase. We entered the first week of cultivation and unfortunately due to an oversight I got confused in the fertilizer table and clearly the dreaded overfert happened. I did a watering only with water to try to remove the excess fertilizer let's hope it works.

22 days since my little girl sprouted from the seed🌱 Third week of growth of my Dosidos Auto 💚⭐🌱 Nutrients: Plagron Alga Bloom is an organic flower fertilizer for growing in soil. The fertilizer is based on algae and contains amino acids, proteins and a balanced ratio of phosphorus and potassium 🌺 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Plagron Green Sensation is a flower booster. Green Sensation is a 4-in-1 product, so you don't need to add additional fertilizers. Suitable for all types of substrates and systems 💚💚 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bud Candy is a carbohydrate supplement from Advanced Nutrients that maximizes the growth and aroma of flowers. It supports strong root activity by providing food for beneficial microorganisms 🍃🌿 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BioBizz Calmag is a 100% organic, but also vegan-friendly fertilizer with BIO certification. Biobizz Calmag was designed for professional growers and home growers who need an extra dose of calcium and magnesium. It contains added humic acid 💩☘️- I only apply it once a week. --------------------------------------------- Biobizz Bio pH-/ Biobizz Bio pH+ is a 100% natural and vegan-friendly pH regulator. Suitable for all types of substrates and crop types. For use in growth and flowering. 💩🍋🌱 ------------------------------------------------------- PRO-MIX CONNECT MYCORRHIZAL POWDER - in the substrate General: Dosidos Auto 💚⭐🌱 The plant is already strongly transitioning to flowering, beautiful white pistils are forming on the tops 🌺 Above I listed the nutrients I switched to during this period. Anyway, I stick to organics, except for the bloom booster, which is about half organic. This week - the third week - in most cases, she does LST and defoliation twice 🍃 🌿 This is really a classic, the plant is beautiful, strong, beautifully green and absolutely perfectly regular. I use the new PH and EC meter Aqua Master Tools P110 PRO, the measurement is fast and accurate. So far I manage to keep the PH and EC as they should be. I use Biobizz Bio +/- to correct. These are excellent products. I think that the plants were definitely very well affected by the spraying of Vita-Race (in vegetation) and the excellent PRO-MIX Connect Mycorrhizal powder to support the roots. All the girls have been very strong and stable since they were little 💚🌲☘️ Training: As I mentioned above, I did the first LST and defoliation, the plants usually quickly re-leaf, other branches also grow quickly. So I'm doing twice defoliation and twice LST in this third week 🍃🌿 🌺 Girls growing in a tent: Mammoth Pro+ 80, with reinforced Mylar 600D reflective foil Lighting: Mars Hydro TS1000, this light is sufficient for lighting in my growing space. The plants respond effectively and the light is technically very well managed - I try to have 50cm between the light and the plants, so I regularly move it up. Mars Hydro TS1000 Quantum Board 💡💡💡 Power: 148W Dimensions: 90 x 90 cm Dimensions: 360 x 330 x 34 mm Chip brand: Epistar Thanks for the likes See you soon 😍😻

Mendo Frost is looking absolutely impressive in week 6 of flower. The buds have swollen significantly, stacking into large, hairy colas while the frost level continues to increase across the entire plant. I had to do a light defoliation this week due to some leaf-feeding pests, but she handled it without missing a beat. The feeding has now switched to Overdrive, and the focus for the final 10–12 days is simple: keep her healthy, let the buds finish swelling, and bring her across the finish line strong.

Bewässerung: 5000 ml jeden 3 Tag in der Elften Woche pH-Wert: 5,8 EC-Wert: 0,4 mS/cm Temperatur: 20ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit: 65% Schädlingsbekämpfung: Diese Woche haben wir ihr Wasser mit Nematoden gegeben da sich doch vermehrt Trauermücken im Bereich aufhalten. PPFD: Direktes Sonnenlicht DLI: Direktes Sonnenlicht -Tag 65 Heute wieder mal gegossen und wir haben den Zaun entfernt und ein Gestell um sie gemacht so können sie sich anlehnen und gleichzeitig auch die Membrana :) -Tag 66 Die Candy Bubatz XL #3 bildet sehr schöne Blüten und ist im vergleich zu den anderen ein richtiger Hingucker, wenn das Wetter Trocken bleibt wird sie so in 2 bis 3 Wochen fertig sein. -Tag 69 Heute haben wir die gegossen mir ca. 5l Wasser und 500ml Brenneseljauche

Today: 14.18 hours of light 100.4 °F 58%Rh 1 million of mosquitos I've spent this hot week training these two plants trying to keep them the lower as possible since the two main buds have reached the roof (7.87 ft tall). Cookies Gelato is about 9.50 ft tall. I've applied white plastic net all around the pergola to give them some shade in order to slow down the metabolism. These plants are giant and there is no more space to move around. Asparagus stalks are well formed so this is, hopefully, the last preflowering week. Cookies is hungry and some bottom fan leaves start to show chlorosis but the top/mid canopy is plenty of natural nitrogen. During these last weeks I've watered them with 4-5 gallons each, leaving the soil to dry for 2/3 days, they seem to love this scheme. Also, the fact of not having pluck away even a leaf made these plants big and extremely vigorous. Tomorrow I will create a roof with clear plastic rolls as the nighttime humidity begins to increase and some summer thunderstorms are on the horizon.

Eine gute Spätsommerwoche geht zu Ende und die nächste kündigt sich an 👍 milde Temperaturen und viel Sonnenschein perfekt zum Beginn der Blüte. Larry und Lemon sind etwas weiter, AK und Banana starten erst. Jeden Tag wird gegossen. Pro Pflanze 1,5 bis 2 l je nach Größe. Es läuft gut 👍 bis nächste Woche ✌️

Este cultivo cada vez se esta viendo mas hermoso. Tercera semana de floración y aun mantienen su buen color (punto culmine en que la gran mayoría de los cultivadores noveles tienden a tener excesos o carencias). Como se puede apreciar, la automática fue distribuida solo en la parte inferior de la malla mientras que las fotodependientes ocupan toda la parte superior, distribuidas para que tengan la mejor producción posible. En la próxima semana, ya comenzaremos a aplicar PK Booster para darles en engorde que necesitan nuestras niñas.

First day of week 7! So, flowering has clearly decided to start and things are looking well. I managed to correct the deficiencies with Sensi CalMag Xtra and she seems to be loving it. I guess we all make mistakes on our first grow but I’m enjoying all of the learning so far. She was in a terrible state a week ago and I thought I was potentially going to lose her. Still, she powered through and here we are. Nothing much to report, I’ll just get some nice shots of bud sites when she fattens up a bit more as we go through. Peace brothers and sisters ✌️ Update 06/07: Took away quite a few leaves which were not providing much value (IMO) and she’s loved it, proper perked up and reaching high for the light. Today I also installed a little mini humidifier and it works a treat, makes it look super cool too 😂👍🏼 - Looking forward to seeing some juicy buds soon.

🚀 Week 8 Overall | Flower Week 3: Taming the Beast! 🌿 What’s up growmies! Hopefully you are enjoying your Christmas time 🎅 Today is December 29th, marking the first day of Week 8 overall and the start of Week 3 of Flowering. The stretch has been absolutely relentless! Even after my last adjustments, the girls were still pushing too close to the light. Today, I had to do some final low-stress training (LST) and bending just to maintain at least a 20cm gap between the tops and the LED panel. I’ve got my fingers crossed that this is the final week of the stretch—I’m officially out of vertical space! Recap of the recent "Rescue Mission": • Heavy Lollipopping: I’ve cleared out the entire bottom section (the "skirt") to maximize airflow and focus energy where it matters. • Canopy Management: Raised the AC Infinity net and thinned out the jungle. It was a massive defoliation, but necessary for the plants to breathe. • Organic Strategy: I’m still seeing those yellow tips from my initial soil mix mistake, so I’ve started adding Organic Silica to help the plants handle the light stress and strengthen their structure. The plants are looking much more manageable now, even with the minor nutrient burn. Now it's time to stop the vertical growth and start stacking those flowers! 🌸❄️ How's your end-of-year grow looking? Any advice for the Week 3 "stretch-ender"? One Love & Happy New Year, growers! 🇯🇲💚 UPDATES- 31.12.25 I took another short video before leaving for for few days for New Year’s Eve 3.1.26 Sheesh, I came back home from New Year’s Eve holidays to these overgrown ladies. I thought the stretch was already over, but they still have so much power. Sadly, I don’t have enough space for them, so super cropping and more bending were necessary to avoid further light burn! In a hurry, like a newbie idiot, I snapped one whole future cola. Lessons for me : never rush to your plants, while watching them nonstop even if im not in the lab. 4.1.26 There is no way! They grew right past my LST, and only the ones I supercropped are at a safe distance now. The others are back in the danger zone again, holy moly. Some of them get even light burned :( I supercropped the rest of the plant today and went to the nigh shift of my main job. Tomorrow I'll post another weekly update where we will look st it closely.

Started flowering around week 5. Lowered the humidity to 50-55 with my controller. Noticed one of the plants topped itself naturally.

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