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Hey all welcome to week 7 of flower!! The lady’s are slowly gaining some thickness of there buds and just going along quiet nicely. A tad smaller buds than I had hope for but that’s just life ain’t it. We have had a quick look through the scope and think they will run for about her 2 weeks so they may fatten up a little more. Until next week happy growing 🤙🏻
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@AsNoriu
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Day 109 since seed touched soil. Same feeding, just dropped magnesium to 50 ppm and boosted 5in1 a bit. Nothing to add, now looks like all goes nice ! Happy Growing !!!
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@DonKrika
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No problems this week, plants growing extremely well. I got a new TDS meter, but unfortunately, I was not able to set up a drip system yet. The only training I did was to defoliate the first true leaves and everything below that. DAY 17 - Nutes PH - 6.1 Solution Temp - 19.5 PPM-1340 Watering Volume per plant - 2L DAY 20 - Water PH - 6.04 Solution Temp - 19.2 PPM-570 Watering Volume per plant - 2.5L Plant B is about 14cm Height and Plant A is about 17 cm Height. One interesting thing that I'm seeing is the fact that Plant B continues to show signs of deformity. On the video, you can see that the right side is missing a node, this missing node corresponds to the deform leaf. Maybe they are related, Plant A was slightly bigger from the beginning, but the node development is bigger in Plant B.
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@jojopfoh
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They are really starting to fill out. I am seeing great results after every water and every feed. I will be transplanting them into 2 gallon pots in the next 2 weeks.
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@mr_smooke
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I'm a little late with update, I was very busy. In grow room it is all under control. the buds are filling up. Strech has stoped. She is 16 days in flower. Smeel is pretty strong, i just need to set up carbon filter. Next update will be in a fev days. ✌️🤘💚💜
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It’s getting cold and damp. Fingers crossed for a couple warm weeks into croptober
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I'm in southern Ontario. Spring is in the air! Humidity levels have risen with rainfall, and temperatures are rising outside and inside my tent. I have been leaving my tent door open during the day and semi-closed at night. Plants in tent do not yet smell and I have my air intake/carbon filter, by VIVOSUN, turned off. During the day my small clip-on fan circulates. At night I let her rest in the cooler air and turn the fan off. May 2: Watered with a PH of 6.5, always using a bit of vinegar to PH down. Water included a pinky finger tip amount of crushed and stirred eggshells. Shells had been sitting in the water for 1.5 days. Shells did not enter the medium. Just the water they sat in.
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🏆The First Grow Cup Diary🏆 _____📅 Week 7 | 📅 Day 43 - 49 | 22.02 - 27.02 Feb. ______ 27.02.25 | Day 49 🌞💧 🔸 I didn't spend much time with the ladies this week, I had a lot to do and then there was the carnival. So this week just a little video of the three cuties. I try to cut off as few leaves as possible and try to do more with LST. It doesn't look very nice, but the fewer leaves you cut, the faster the plant grows....Yes, I know it itches in your fingers to cut every day, but just give your plants a rest. 🔸 Runtz 1 and 2 are doing really well and look just as I imagined. Runtz 1 looks a bit thirsty and therefore lets the leaves hang a bit. 🔸 I can't do much LST with Runtz 3 because the main branches on the stem are a bit broken and I don't want to break them off completely...shit happens hehe. 🔸 each Plant 3 l __________________________________________________________________ 🌡️🔆= 25-26° 🌡️🌜= 18-19° 💨 Hum. = 65% 🔦 PPFD = 600 umol 18/6 🔦⌚DLI = ~38 ___________________________________________________________________ Equipment: Veggie 💡2 x 200 Watt Cosmos LED 💡4 x 40 Watt Spider-Farmer ⛺120 x 120 x 200 Tent (4 x 4 x 8) 🍯 18 liter pots
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She has done well throughout the vegetation she has many five fingered leaves and a few seven fingered despite the harsh conditions she is holding up well receiving around 300 to 400 mls of water each week and the substrate left with at least 15% in it. She suffered a little bit of light burn and likes the distance kept at 50cm. At the end of the vegetation the double kush cake’s canopy has split wide open and she now stands approximately 50cm from the soil.
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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10/19: This morning when I opened up the closet I wanted to rearrange a little, but they were so packed in, it was almost impossible. So, I went up in the attic and ran some cables and hooked up my other 200w light in the top section. I moved the 4 smallest plants up there and it created a little bit of desperately needed space in the lower section...but I still doubt very seriously that I'll be able to grow all 15 to completion in there..it's only 14.5 square feet of space!😳 10/20: I foliar fed everybody with some SP-90 humic/fulvic acid and kelp me kelp you today. They will probably get fed again tomorrow. Drying out quickly- 10/21: I applied Axiom again today..I sprayed a whole liter of the finest mist I could produce..tops and bottoms of all leaves to the point of runoff. I fixed up a 5 gallon batch of nutes and fed everybody about a 1/4 gallon each. Later the same day.... Several of them look very overwatered..and it's mainly the plants in the back in fabric pots that have seen a grow or two. I think my pots are mainly just too close together for airflow to dry the bottoms out well enough. I put another big fan in the closet and turned off the evap cooler for the night. 10/22: Most of them look better this morning, but a few are still droopy, so I used a stainless steel skewer to poke a thousand little holes in the lower part of all the fabric pots in the garden to try and improve oxygen availability to the roots. I also carefully arranged the garden so that there are gaps between all the pots. I think I'll also space my waterings a little further apart. The topsoil is drying out well enough, but I don't want their roots sitting in muck. 10/23: Several of them are flowering now, and starting to stretch a little bit. I raised the lights about 2 inches today and dialed the ac infinity's high temp trigger up to 88f for a bit to get them to dry out a little faster, so the RH climbed a little higher as well...so I also set the ac infinity's high humidity trigger threshold to 65%. After observing signs of nitrogen toxicity on several of them, I realized that I made another rookie mistake...(where is my head??) The new 5 gallon bucket I'm using to mix a batch of nutes must be about 2 inches shorter than the one I had been using, and I never bothered to calibrate it....which I did today. So, for the past couple of feedings, I've been mixing in enough nutes for 5 gallons, but in only 4 gallons of water!!! I foliar fed them with BoomBoom Spray and gave them about 8oz each of boomerang and cal-mag early in the morning, and by 5pm they all looked happier. I'll give them a little drink of plain water tomorrow, then start them on flowering nutes the next day. 10/24: Several are starting to stretch now...and all but one are flowering. This morning I fed them another little dose of boomerang and cal-mag, and also added some bembe and open sesame to the mix. This afternoon, I foliar fed everybody very thoroughly with some humic/fulvic acid, seaweed extract, yucca extract, and big bloom (for the earthworm castings and minor and trace elements) I repotted the dwarf in a smaller container and gave it to my son. He's a bonsai enthusiast, so it's right up his alley...that's one less plant to deal with! 10/25: This evening I mixed up 5 gallons of pretty much everything except grow big. and gave everybody about 1/4 gallon each. I plan to flush them with sledgehammer on Sunday or Monday and only do foliar feedings like BoomBoom spray and fulvic acid until I resume normal bloom feeding mid-week. Because I've had such a good veg, I'm pretty sure the maximum number of plants I'll be able to fit into the lower section is 13...and maybe only 12. So, that will be my 4 or 5 shortest plants in the area above..in which case, I'll need more light... I think the new UVB light will have to wait until my next grow because I've got so spend a couple hundred bucks on seeds to be able to start another batch right before my current run finishes.😖😞😩😡
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This ladies look absolutely gorgeous and super strong, they're gonna be flipped into flower tomorrow on February 15th when they'll hit the 30th day since they were planted and the first day of flower! As said, I have flipped this ladies into flower on February 15th so now I think we're gonna see a beautiful stretch specially on this 2 plants which are the biggest one in the tent, very nice genetic, cannot wait to see their performance ❤️💛💚👨‍🌾 stay tuned everybody! This is gonna be a beautiful run! ✌️
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Beautiful strain to grow, she ended up. With a smaller size compared to her sisters but she's a big quality lady very frosty and sweet, the aroma of this sticky flowers are super sweet and floral, just so wonderful, I love this strain and I'm glad I have black cherry punch in my garden the 5 of them with the same aroma 🔝 can't wait to croptober
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I've enjoyed a lot growing this plant, I had to deal at tje end of thr cycle with fungus gntas but she resisted without problems, each day the flowers stink more and more, amazing genetic, I would definitely like to keep on working with this genetic, it's a pleasure to smoke, I recomend you to grow her organically like I did snd you'll see!
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@Purpz007
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I flipped the plants to flower and in a 12 hour light and dark routine. I have put up the trellis net to improve the canopy. I have dropped the nitrogen slowly a little bit and added bloom in its place.
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Pandemic “Third Wave” hit. Looking forward to share my Next attempt. 🐈🐟🌱Aquaponic Grow🐟🌱🐈 #Germination 🗓️19 Jul 2021 Germination was simple. Just added some seeds in plant cups. Tank setup is as follow: Tank 40 liter Air Pump 2.5w SHANDA SD-900 Mini Aquarium Water Pump Small 2 Air Stone Grow medium mostly consist of small sea shells and rocks washed and packed. Fish: Gold Fish named Ed, Edd, Eddie After the wash of the grow media and Tank water fill I let the system run for a week. This allows the water condition to stabilize. Used spring water. The fish were placed in tank still in bag for water temp reasons. Opened the bang and kept the fish in tank for a week before planting seeds. Micro Bacteria to form in grow medium. Will be adding a Root Conditioner soon. Looking for on thats not harmful to the fish. 🌱New Posts Ever Monday🌱 Follow and like my instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/CPRd1WeA4WP/?utm_medium=copy_link Thanks for Reading Joe & Pop-Corn🐈