I’ve been battling my reservoir all week. Messed up the initial mix once, and I’ve been playing catch-up every single day since, trying to stabilize the numbers. I finally dialed it in today with this recipe: NO3 18, P105, K210, Ca100. Despite the nutrient hiccups, the girl is looking solid and is absolutely caked in trichomes.

Just trying this just to see if you can grow in s household name compost, struggling with nutes as it has nutes for 6 months already in wish me luck 😀🙏

Getting very excited about this process! First time mainlining and it is great! Also love the advanced nutrients nuts, first time trying them!

👍👍 keep grow let see what happens next week

I had to harvest plant A - Plagron 23/4/18 I will harvest plant B later , she is going the distance , this one had an 11 day flush .This is the top bud , pics to follow .Enjoy the vid people I’m starting to use technology 😜

DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS WEEK #20 OVERALL WEEK #8 FLOWER This week her buds are really getting weight to them they have that OG bud structure smaller tight dense buds that are covered in trichomes!! She got a overpowering smell to her that's WOW!! She's almost done a few left!! Stay Growing!!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! THANK YOU DIVINE SEEDS!!! DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS

Explosive growth again all round,.. all are flowering now and looking healthy, not going to be like last year's 7ft plants but that's on purpose, roll on next week and hope the sun stays out like it has been because they are loving it at the moment 😀 👍👌

HST done at the end of the week, did cut some fan leaves and some topping and defoliation, 1 more week before sending them to flowering.

Hope everyone had a great Christmas!!! We have had some crazy cold weather here the last 4 days and for the first time in 13 years had snow on Christmas day. So with the cold and snow came grow room issues. My grow space is outside and not attached to the house so maintaining a proper temperature and humidity has been a bit on the difficult side. Even with the lights running 24 hours, it's had a few drops down to 19c and the humidity has gone up to 68% a few times. Now luckly I'm still in veg and the humidity isn't a issue yet but the temperature has been making me worried. Going to put togther a heater with its own temperature switch increase it drops below 20c. Did some training over the last week with some LST and FIMing. With the LST every 3nd day I've been adjusting them and pulling the plants back a bit more and more. Since I don't think I'll be able to set up a SCRog net this go around (spent to much for Christmas and wont be able to affordthe PVC tubing) ive got to figure out something else and fast. Plants are getting big and it's going to get hard to bend then properly without braking stuff. Because I was showing some issues with 2 of my plants I started adding a bit of Revive to my res to see if they get better and they have. But because of the cold that's been hitting us my tank has had a hard time staying warm. Even with my 50w tank heater it's been fighting a up hill battle because the area outside the main room where the tank is, has been sitting around 14-17c. So with that the air pump I use to circulate the tank, it is pulling in cold air and thats been fighting the tank heater in getting it up to what I like it at. I tried using my water pump instead of the air pump for circulation and the res went up to 25.6c soooo I would much rather have 19c res then water that could kill my plants. So let's talk about the plants themselves. Both Special Queen plants are doing great but as you can see from the picture, one is doing absolutely amazing. Great growth (understatement) and has bounced back from training like a pro. The other plant is still doing really good when compared to all the other plants in the room but still could be a little bit better. Depending on what I'm going to do for supporting the plants this might be the last week of veg. Well see. So this plant was doing great and then about 2 days ago I started to notice issues. Almost looks like leaf rust or a Ph problem but ive tried my best to keep them correct and I'm hopping that like my Ripper badazz plants that they well just grow out of it. Doing a big clean up today in the room so I'm going to keep my eyes open for any pests just incase that's the issue but fingers crossed it isn't. Well that's everything for now. Happy growing growmies!!!

Mar 24: Watering till runoff now... runoff ppm was 2500+... Will be using very mild nutes to flush over 1 - 3 feeds... or until I am near my input. Mar 26: Continuing to use 650ppm feed with bloom focus, 2L per plant gives 15% runoff... Runoff ppm is still very high... I wanted to check pH of runoff but the color is so vibrant i cant use the pH drops to view color, need to get a pH probe. Plants are thriving, no issues at all. the extra fan fixed the post-water droop. One plant is bushy and has the most bud sites, One is the smallest but has the most uniform structure, this one has the biggest buds and thickest stalk, One is about in the middle of the 2. Mar 29: one of these girls gets droopy early when its time for water, thought the canopy was too high so i tied down some more, no cigar... gonna try increasing calmag, if that doesent work im going to reposition in the grow box to a side instead of middle, may not need the upper end ppfd...

Week 14 (2-5 to 8-5) 2-5 Temperature: 27.3 degrees (lights on) 19.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 69% (highest) 52% (lowest) Watering: 2000 ml. 3-5 Temperature: 24.2 degrees (lights on) 19.3 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 68% (highest) 50% (lowest) Watering: None. No pictures. Increased the light's power output to 90% LUX: 22.500 4-5 Temperature: 24.1 degrees (lights on) 20.3 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 63% (highest) 43% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. 5-5 Temperature: 24.8 degrees (lights on) 20.3 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 66% (highest) 43% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. No pictures. 6-5 Temperature: 24.4 degrees (lights on) 19.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 66% (highest) 44% (lowest) Watering: None. 7-5 Temperature: 24.4 degrees (lights on) 19.2 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 66% (highest) 44% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. 8-5 Temperature: 24.2 degrees (lights on) 19.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 48% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml.

the flowers are as dense as a rock

Hi all, Welcome to my🍌💜👊 week update Thank you so much for all support on this bananas journey. Much appreciate all your likes, follows and comments. 🙏💚❤️💜 Week 13 Jan 8- Jan 14 This was another amazing week. Girls are behaved very well. Drinking their juice like crazy. 2 waterings of 9ltrs on Jan 10th and Jan 13th. Runoffs at ph 6.2. Buds are gaining some serious weight and the trichomes development is of the charts. Girls are covered with frost. Trichomes are mainly milky now with individual ambers here and there. On Jan 10 noticed on one Athena top colas a white topped bud! It's something that has never happened to me. It may be only led bleach or it's something abnormal and phenomenal. It's white and has red and amber pistil hairs in between and all covered with trichomes. Few days after. White coulour is not spreading and not seeing any damages. The smell in my cabinet its insane. Very sweet scents. I wouldn't say bananas but definitely sweet berries and gummies 🤤 new dehumidifier doing an amazing job. Humidity when light is on is between 49-54% and 52-58% when lights are out. It's all looking that my 🍌💜👊 girls will be ladies very soon. Harvest is coming big time. Next week planning to gradually cut nutrients down and prepare for flush. Stay tuned for new week update very soon! Peace and love brothers and sisters ✌️💚👨‍🌾 Links https://2fast4buds.com/seeds/banana-purple-punch-auto https://plagron.com https://www.biobizz.com/ https://fishheadfarms.com/

What up Fam. Weekly update on these little beauties. They got transplanted into their 5gal fabric pots for the season. Haven't seen much upward growth so I'd say they're building a root zone from being transplanted. I sprayed them down with some Athena IPM & stack to not only combat pest but encourage good node spacing. All in all Happy Growing.

Week 5 it is then. I had hoped on a 4 week veg period as I have been so used to autoflowers that this has become my normal. I had also forgot how much I enjoy training the ladies to work better with the l.e.d coverage and limitations of my grow room height. The HST is goi g really well with the Bruce responding with so.e nice fattening limbs and great potential mainstays. The idea is to fool the plant into thinking that each growing tip is the main-stem ( merristem) This will ensure an even distribution of all the available resources. As they progress towards flowering flip , i am trying to get each tip to the pots edge. This will allow me to tie them down to the edges and when the stretch period begins , they will grow vertically to create a ring of main buds. This allows airflow around each bud, which lessens the risk of mould and also allows lots of available light to reach the whole lengths. I did snap one limb of rhe Bruce bit it was the f.i.m so it won't be a huge loss of it doesn't repair in Time. The candy rain is doing a great job of catching up now with only 4 tips to train and plenty of light, I am hoping she catches up this week to be flipped to flower. Both of the Jealousy girls are really healthy and happy. again they are being trained fairly aggressive and are handling all I am throwing at them with twists and bends. No issues with anything so far so fingers crossed that I can flip them next update and begin the real fun of seeing the training pay off. Be safe and well Growmies. UPDATE 11/5/23 I flipped the lights to 12/12 today so will update in a weeks time on the 1st weeks stretch. Lost the snapped main I repaired on jealousy #1 but no issue as she has plenty of potential mains

Back with the Lemons, Thanks for coming by! Day 44 - Height: LP#1 @ 36" / LP#2 @ 33" The Lemons move into week 7. They have a fantastic smell now! The scent in the room is a sugary, sweet citrus backed up by a spicy black pepper. I pruned off the lower leaves that were turning yellow, many of them were squashed and bent from the walls anyway and some were actually hanging off where they've been pushed about a bit in the space, but it's all good. The buds on LP#2 are really tightening up now, but they're really making the buds on LP#1 look a bit leggy, especially the buds on the side stems. In terms of issues, there is some pretty serious light bleaching going on in the tips of the leaves, but what's done is done, so I'll have to keep an eye out for that in future grows. Otherwise plants look healthy. Leaf Surface Temperature at the canopy is 25c, which is about 2-3c lower than the ambient temps in the space, so I think thats all good, despite the light bleaching they shouldn't be suffering from heat stress too much really. Hopefully going to see the buds fatten up real nice over the next couple of weeks before harvest! Day 48 - Height: LP#1 @ 36" / LP#2 @ 33" Day 48 and the Lemon Twins are really starting to get sticky and pack on the weight now. LP#2 can't hold herself up at all anymore, so I've had to string a whole bunch of wires up to keep the side stems vertical. It's nice though because it condenses the footprint in my tent. I did the same with my Kush from last grow and it actually makes my space a bit easier to deal with. I think they must be approaching harvest window in a week or so, but I'm going to let them run a couple more weeks at least before I start checking trichomes seriously. All healthy and nothing bad to report though! One thing I'm not really sure about and keep trying to research is the effect of light bleaching on plants. Mine always suffer from quite severe light bleaching or nutrient burn on the tips by this point in their lifecycle which actually comes mostly from the heat and light coming back off the reflective walls I think, as it burns the leaves next to the walls the most. My plants seem to grow well and look healthy in all other respects though and they yield well enough, so I don't really know if it's a problem. I need to read a lot more about this. Thanks for reading, happy growing and take it easy!

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 25°C to 35°C depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 40°C, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently. E=MC2 looks like a simple multiplication problem; it describes a fundamental physical truth: mass and energy are the same thing. The equation doesn't just calculate a value; it reveals that mass is effectively "congealed" energy. Energy is just numbers. Energy isn't a physical "substance" you can hold or touch. It is essentially an abstract, calculated number that we assign to a system to predict how it will change, interact, or move. A numerical label we attach to matter to track how it behaves. Because the universe runs on laws of symmetry (specifically, that the laws of physics don't change over time), a single global number must be conserved. We call that number "energy". We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversion. How well a seedling grows is essentially down to how much knowledge one can acquire to increase the level of conversion to occur. Applying knowledge effectively requires intuition, which comes from hands-on experience. A seasoned stoner learns to read subtle signs—like a slight change in leaf turgor (stiffness), subtle color shifts, or the specific texture of the soil—before a textbook diagnosis can be made. Ultimately, growing is the application of botanical science blended with active observation. Knowledge dictates your potential, but adaptability and attentiveness to the plant's immediate environment determine your results. 1.618 nature mathematically optimizes quantum energy transfer and light absorption efficiency within the photosynthetic machinery, as it naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. External vibration or electromagnetic wave that perfectly matches a plant's natural frequency directly influences plant growth. Low-frequency sound waves and targeted electromagnetic fields stimulate cellular processes and boost photosynthetic efficiency Does it produce better yields? How long is a piece of string? As long as you cut it. But isssss the juice worth the squeeze? The quantum framework of the IVM seems to think so. Good enough for the quantum firmware, good enough for the DNA software. Genetics are not dictated; they are expressed; the rate of that expression is dictated by the environment in which growth occurs. Quantum Coherence in Photosynthesis occurs When a photon of sunlight strikes a leaf, the energy it carries must travel to a reaction center to be converted into chemical energy. This process operates at nearly 100% efficiency. If the energy moved in a traditional "bunching" or random hopping manner, a large portion of it would be lost as heat. Instead, plants utilize quantum superposition. The energy particle (exciton) doesn't just take one path; it exists in a wave state and explores multiple pathways simultaneously. It essentially "chooses" the most efficient route to the reaction center simultaneously. Research shows that molecular vibrations and the specific network arrangements of chlorophyll molecules (like the naturally evolved Chlorophyll A & B ratios) actively protect against energy overflow, optimizing light capture across different light intensities. Enzymes are the biological catalysts that speed up chemical reactions within a plant's cells, allowing them to grow, metabolize, and repair. Rather than relying solely on the classical kinetic energy of molecules colliding, plants use quantum tunneling. Subatomic particles like electrons and protons (hydrogen ions) can literally "teleport" through energy barriers that they normally wouldn’t have the energy to climb over. This makes vital metabolic reactions happen far faster than classical physics could ever explain. Chloryphyll b has peak absorption at 460nm (Blue) and at 647nm(Red). If we take the blue peak wavelength 460nm and a UV-B, UVR8 peak absorption wavelength 285nm, Tryptophan-285 (W285) Sensing protein. 460/285=1.618 Φ If we take chlorypyhll b's Red absorption peak 647nm and a UV-A of 400nm, we get 647/400=1.618 Φ. "Structure of light". The cryptochrome photoreceptor (CRY) is a UV-A/blue light receptor that shares this dual sensitivity with several other biological structures and functions, including significant sequence similarity and a common evolutionary ancestor with DNA photolyase enzymes. These are light-activated enzymes that use blue/UV-A light to repair DNA damage caused by UV-B radiation in plants. Synergistic. But Shhh, it's a secret. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΦPSII, represents the proportion of light absorbed by Photosystem II (ΦPSII) that is actually used in photosynthetic electron transport. It is a key indicator of how efficiently a plant is using light for photosynthesis, as opposed to losing it as heat or fluorescence. ΦPSII (effective quantum yield of photosystem II) functions primarily as a "multiplier" (a coefficient of efficiency) rather than an additive factor when estimating the overall photosynthetic electron transport rate (ETR). Multipliers are considered far more beneficial than additions because they generate exponential growth, leverage existing resources to their full potential, and create sustainable, self-multiplying capacity, rather than just incremental, linear increases. This fascinating observation is rooted in the intersection of subatomic geometry, fractal scaling, and quantum dynamics. In specific molecular arrangements—such as in conjugated polymer networks or biomolecular architectures—the Golden Ratio (PHI) naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. Mathematically tied to the fine-structure constant, which defines the strength of the electromagnetic interaction. The Golden Ratio can be mapped geometrically as the Golden Angle (137.5 degrees) in atomic structures, linking the charge of the electron to fundamental quantum constants like Planck's constant. Electromagnetic. The Golden Angle (137.5): This angle is derived from the Golden Ratio (1.618). It is the smaller of two angles created when a circle is divided such that the ratio of the arcs equals the Golden Ratio.