Likes
Comments
Share
Skipped a week in my journal due to travels. Had my neighbor water my plants. Having some minor early deficiencies with my photoperiod plants (particularly the chem brulee)... so I decided to go ahead and give everything a solid feeding of Foop Bloom 1, 2 and Sweetener. This is their first ever bottled feeding. Have been running on supersoil and a prayer. Also top dressed everything and mulched with rice straw to help with the soil drying out a bit too quickly. Leaves have been yellowing on all three. Mostly relegated to the interior of the plants. Chem Brulee is looking a bit too yellow overall, as well. French Macaron is a 66in. Chem Brulee is 56in. Pineapple Meatball is 45in. I have a sneaking suspicion that my neighbor didn't water them quite enough while I was gone. Will probably continue with the Foop feedings... probably at least once per week. Don't want to overdo it. Also top dressed with my flowering top dress mix and mulched all plants with a thin layer of rice straw. 8/4 Sprayed with Neem Oil and Castile Soap 8/5 Sprayed with Gravenstein Apple FFJ and OHN 8/6 Sprayed with Neem Oil and Castile Soap (this will likely be the last time I spray with Neem Oil, as I don't want residual oils as buds start swelling. Also fed 1/4 strength FOOP to ensure we head off any deficiencies.
Likes
6
Share
@RBK2023
Follow
Plants reacted well to last weeks LST! A little more bending and a small defoliation this week. I have just turnt lights to 12/12 wish me luck!!
Likes
20
Share
@Alex8o
Follow
Smell explodes and all the strains are very sticky,I also added a humidifier because had very low (under 35) and now is stable to 45/50 thanks to smart home plugs and sensor.
Likes
6
Share
10/13: I fed her about 24 ounces of compost tea today. I had brewed 5 gallons of tea using 90% rainwater collected the day before, and 10% aquarium water. My tea contained about 2 cups of very rich compost a handful of biochar, a tablespoon of 7 diff species of endo-mycorrhizal fungi + 25 species of beneficial bacteria, 8 tablespoons of big bloom (mainly for the earthworm castings), 2 tablespoons of liquid molasses, and a tablespoon of kelp me kelp you. It had been brewing for 48 hours and was very frothy. I'm seeing signs of calcium deficiency on a few plants today, but the tea should correct that. I'll add cal/mag to the watering regimen anyway. 10/14: With so much light and airflow, she's drying out very quickly. I fed her about a half-gallon of water with grow big, big bloom, kelp me kelp you, boomerang, cal-mag+iron, armor si, and soluble humic acid. I also foliar fed her a few times with humic acid and big bloom. 10/15: I foliar fed with big bloom and a little kelp a few times today and peeled back the insulation in the attic above the closet now that it's getting colder outside. It brought my daytime temp down to 81f! 10/16: I fed her about a quarter-gallon containing all the good stuff, at full strength for the first time. I also misted her really well with Ph adjusted spring water a few times throughout the day, just to rinse off any built-up nutes. She never showed any signs of a calcium deficiency, but I dosed her heavy with cal-mag with this feeding anyway. I did some leaf-tucking today, but have decided not to FIM her. I really don't want to increase her individual footprint since she has so many neighbors. 10/17: I rearranged the garden a little bit and sprayed her down with ph adjusted tap water a few times today. She's looking great! 10/18: Today, I did a myco root drench, with a little added boomerang for all the aminos, vitamins, and earthworm castings, and some cal-mag. I soaked her thoroughly with about 3/4 gallon and let her sit in her tray to soak it all up. I'll let her go completely dry before I feed her again so that she really drinks it all in next time. I lowered the lights to 20 inches above her right at dark, so she'll wake up to an especially bright sunshiny day! 10/19: I was gonna rearrange this morning and had no space to work with, so I moved the 4 smallest plants in the garden into the "upper deck." Now she has a little more elbow room. It's the last day of week 3 and I'm really impressed with her progress. If I had more space to work with, I'd definitely be doing a little training to try and maximize my yield from her.
Likes
4
Share
60x60 cm tent in a 1920's peek-in-closet Oversized vent for silence High power DIY LED True SoG 12/12 from seed with 15 plants in 2L pots Watering all plants in bottom tray with 30% of total pot size (10L) WEEK 1 DAY 1 - Germinated in paper towel DAY 3 - Planted into pots + Lights ON at 125w DAY 5 - All plants have broken soil DAY 7 - Slight stretch - Light at 185w WEEK 2 Two of the Iced Out are lagging behind, others are on point - I'm trying to push light and nutes to the max. Extraction fan (AC infinity Cloudline T6) on level 2. DAY 13 - First full watering (10L) with 20 ml Canna Terra Vega DAY 14 - Circulation fan turned on (low) during lights on WEEK 3 Good growth, two Iced Out still lagging DAY 18 - Light at 225w, Extraction fan on level 3 during lights on DAY 20 - 2nd watering, 8L with 30ml Vega + Light at 250w DAY 21 - On point, mostly :) Could've pushed nutes a bit more from the go
Likes
7
Share
The plants are looking absolutely gorgeous, both phenos, very happy with the performance of haze berry, amazing tropical and fruity smells every time I grow haze berry, I just cannot wait to see this ladies finish up and taste those buds 😍🤤🤤
Processing
Likes
24
Share
Added CalMag. Day #35 - topping 2/3 Da5 #38 -decided to stop using top feeding. roots are strong enough to continue growth itself. Clones have recovered making roots and now standing by itself. Plant responded very well to adding of CalMag, decide to proccede with topping (2/3). Algae start to form on the top feed tube. removed for cleaning and decided to stop. top feed get good results for the first weeks for root development but later is not so relevant, so decided to stop to see the results.
Likes
56
Share
Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
Likes
16
Share
Week 9 is coming to an end and it's almost time to harvest. At this point the plants are really loud. I dimmed the light and will probably harvest during week 10. At this point I won't water the plants any more.
Likes
13
Share
@WeedFlin
Follow
Vamos a la segunda sem de floración. Veremos si desaparece el "hongo" o lo que coño sea pq ya no creo que sea un hongo.
Likes
22
Share
@Stork
Follow
Day 1 I don't understand why her growth is progressing so slowly; it seems like she's being rather lazy about it, and I have a gut feeling that she is growing slowly because of the humidity PH 6.0 EC 0.6 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 25c Day 2 Refresh the water and add 10 L nuts PH 5.8 EC 0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 25c Day 3 PH 6.2/5.8 EC 0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 23c Day 4 Thu Add AC water to lower the EC PH 6.2/5.8 EC 0.9/0.7 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 22c Day 5 Fri Add AC water PH 6.1/5.9 EC 0.8/0.7 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 23c Day 6 Sat PH 5.9 EC 0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 21c Day 7 Sun PH 5.9 EC 0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 21c
Likes
12
Share
21.8 7th flowering week full and man these girls are frosty. Totally different phenos thou. But I don't mind interesting actually.. 👌 This fat leafed is one the frostiest plant I've come across more like Og nose on that. Other I guess more glue like and that smells true to her name and loud.. They've gotten good amount of mass in last weeks and I hope they still do being pretty small. Atleast 9 weeks or these girls seems like.. Others in my tent I started flushing they show signs of ripening these don't not just yet. And these were the smallest ones and started flowering last. Really nice surprise these seeds I didn't know what to expect really but yeah 👍 happy growing boys and girls! btw that in that video is my whole tent with Shiskaberry's and Orange Shreb's Peace out! 🙏
Likes
6
Share
Everything seems to be going slow still. Did one last heavy defoliation to get good airflow going. I added the Ts1000w from Mars Hydro. I’m still feeding the usual 3.0EC from Floraflex. Smell is more on a minty side I can’t really describe it. Other than that nothing else. See you all next week.
Likes
4
Share
This lady looks absolutely gorgeous, she's got big beautiful leaves, I cannot wait to transplant this lady and make her become a beautiful fat bush! Let's do this! I'm very glad to be working with this strain this 2021 outdoor season, this lady has been Transplanted after 34 days since planted to her definitive 30L texpot, let's see how this lady performs!!
Likes
15
Share
@Dr81n
Follow
Last 2 autos coming up maybe week or 2 before done. Expecting the large Durban og auto to foxtail some as it keeps adding white pistols. Smaller plant lost track of strain as I didn’t much care but for a little gal she is pungent.
Likes
10
Share
@Lushgaia
Follow
Didn’t expect to see amber already at week 6 but hey all good
Likes
22
Share
Last week I was very concerned that she went into too soon. But she has performed astonishingly This past week! She grew tall and started branching out. She is getting real hungry but will stick to her compost tea for now
Likes
29
Share
Hope you are well. Thanks for taking the time. Little main line defoliation to focus growth. A cell is a quantum measuring device for light’s frequency to make order from the chaos that light frequencies bring from our environment. A cell performs mechanical resonance, where its intrinsic structures vibrate at specific resonant frequencies when exposed to external mechanical stimulation. Cells possess the ability to sense and respond to mechanical cues from their environment, a process known as mechanosensing. This can involve the activation of signaling pathways and changes in gene expression. Cellular resonance is a component of mechanotransduction, the process by which cells convert mechanical force into a biochemical signal that triggers a cellular response. Plants perceive mechanosensory stimuli, such as vibration and touch, through structures like trichomes (hairs) and specialized ion channels embedded in their cell membranes. Plants are sensitive to frequencies ranging from ultrasound to lower sound waves, such as 250 Hz. The perception depends on various factors, including the stiffness of the underlying tissue, which can be tuned by the plant to perceive specific frequencies associated with environmental cues like insect herbivory. While the exact molecular mechanisms are still being explored, scientists have identified several potential pathways that may be affected by acoustic vibrations in this frequency range: 4000-5000 Hz. Enzyme activity: Sound waves can increase the activity of certain enzymes, such as amylase, and elevate the content of soluble sugars and proteins. Increased stomatal opening in response to specific frequencies can optimize photosynthesis by increasing the plant's absorption of water and CO2. In addition to enhancing drought tolerance, sound vibrations can strengthen plants' overall resistance to stress. Studies have shown that some genes related to stress response can be activated by sound stimulation. The Emerson effect is a phenomenon where the combination of red and far-red light increases the rate of photosynthesis beyond the sum of the two wavelengths used separately. This synergy is important for understanding Extended Photosynthetically Active Radiation (ePAR), which includes the far-red spectrum, because it means a more comprehensive measurement is needed to fully understand light's effect on plant growth. ePAR meters measure light up to 750 nm, which is necessary to capture the far-red light that participates in the Emerson effect. The human eye can detect more shades of green than any other color due to a combination of our cone cell sensitivity and evolutionary history. Our eyes are most sensitive to the yellow-green part of the spectrum, which is the peak of our visual sensitivity, and a large part of our ancestry was spent needing to distinguish subtle variations in greenery for survival. or our primate ancestors, being able to discern subtle differences in green was crucial for survival. It helped them identify edible plants and avoid poisonous ones, as well as detect predators hiding in foliage. This constant need to distinguish shades of green drove the evolution of our color perception to become most sensitive to it. S-cones: Detect short wavelengths, perceived as blues and violets. M-cones: Detect medium wavelengths, perceived as greens. L-cones: Detect long wavelengths, perceived as reds and yellows. The primary reason for our enhanced sensitivity to green is that the peak sensitivities of the M-cones and L-cones are very close together in the green-yellow region of the visible spectrum. This overlap means that green light stimulates both the M-cones and L-cones, creating a more robust and detailed signal for the brain to interpret. In contrast, the S-cones are more isolated and respond to a much narrower band of light, leading to less sensitivity for blues. The brain's visual processing pathways also play a role. Our visual system processes color differences through "opponent channels," which compare the signals from different types of cones. The opponent channel that processes red versus green has a more precise and intricate system than the blue versus yellow channel, leading to finer discrimination in the green part of the spectrum.