First Gro In/Outdoor!!! 5 Diff Strains!!

Ok to encourage more growth in vegging is not adding more light intensity. Actually it works kinda the opposite way. They need enough but not intense in vegging. It then stimulates the plant to grow more leaves to catch the light vs the leaves present getting as much as they can process. Bulking in flowering is where your intense light will be needed most. Ramping light intensity up to bulking stage or even stretching to keep nodes closer is ideal for more light. Providing training to plants will stimulate growth as well.

LST always depends on the length of the main trunk. If this is too short, there is a risk that you will snap it off. In this case, topping is more appropriate. Your plants have grown tall, so you can now bend them with a large radius. You can usually see this from the 3rd node, at the latest by the 5th you should have done it. Otherwise the truunk will be too thick to bend.

Hi fellow grower, Looks great by the way! I personally like to start flowering photoperiod plants when they are atleast 35 cm in height - from the base of the stem to the top of the canopy. Or I try time it with the colder season, for example if winter is coming try start flowering 10 weeks back from around the middle of winter. This is the best for results because it will be the right conditions for flowering, give more terps and rezin and colour to your plants. If your plants are autoflowers you don't need to switch your light cycle. This is because they are made to automatically flower regardless off light schedule/intensity. The best thing you can do for autoflowers is give as much light and let it grow as big as possible as the plant is like a timer and its only a matter of time before she will be ready to harvest. I let the plant grow on a 20 hour lights on and 4 hours lights off cycle. But always keep your seasons in mind because they will affect your grow. Hotter months for growth and veg and colder months for flowering. Unless you can control your environment then no worry. In summary: I personally choose to let the plant grow as much as possible to get the most out of it come harvest time. I reckon wait as long as you can before switching photoperiod plants into flower, because you will feel so great knowing it got the best out of its vegetative stage and will result in a better yield and a happier you. Happy grow mate!

Hello. Yes, only top in veg and wait for them to heal. I also think LST would work good too. You can always use Supper Cropping on any taller branches after the stretch. You can buy them made from plastic or make your own. I prefer to use copper, hay wire rusts. I made some and put it in my SAL diary if you want to see. Good Luck Chuck.

Hey buddy. I see you got a mixed bag of autos&photos. With the photos you can do whatever you like, LST whatever. With autos, these are dif, as they switch themselves they kinda like to be left alone. Depending on the strains, it'll give you an idea of which way to LST. Indica are smaller and tend to lean on the bushy side were sativa grows up like an Xmas tree. I'd focus heavy on LST on the shorter plants. By starting from the bottom set go 3/4 down the node and tie it down and the top will turn up towards the light and as you go up the nodes make where you strap down the nodes a little less so they turn up before the 1st set and follow up your plant like that. Or not. Its LST, so you really can do what you want. As for the photos, you want to be vegging them for about 6-8 wks autos will flip around wk 3-5. Autos like more like, so what you can do, is take out the photos after 12hrs and put them in a dark room. And keep your autos in the tent and if you like you can run them on 20hrs and just put your photos back in. Lots of work I know, but to get the best results it's what's gotta be done. As for micro nutrients, they are only trace elements and can be given from the start, depending on the plants ruderails, it'll depend on how much trace elements (micro nutrients) autos have RR as they are the thing that actually flips the autos. Some photos have RR like fast versions. But again they are only micro nutes so it's very very hard to get a tox but very easy to get a deficiency, so id stick with the micro. Feel free 2 DM me if you need more details as all this is the most basic of things. Good luck

I'd spray it with a 2-3% h2o2 solution with a surfactant of some sort --yucca or castile oil etc... very important for effectiveness to break surface tension of water. H2O2 may burn pistils a bit -- usually takes multiple applications and some are more robust than others, but it can happen. Their is a chance they will turn color prematurely... not too big of a deal if near end. h2o2 breaks down into water and o2.. so, compared to other options it's fairly safe option in flower... though still something you'd rather not do. the spraying does 2 things for you... it'll sanitize other parts that may not be visibly effective and it will prevent as many spores from going airborne while you remove foliage with wpm spots. picking off dry leaves will just cause a plume of spores to pop into the air, which will easily spread with good circulation. when removing leaves, also remove any other foliage that touches that leaf or can come into contact with it easily. I'd have a plastic bag there while you do it, so again you limit spores in the air while agitating the hell out of the plant material with WPM. i'd continue to spray h2o2 for a few days... right before lights out... in fact, don't worry about spending 10-15mins doing this after lights out... if 12/12 there's more than an hour of cushion you can bite into without causing any re-vege.... or if an auto, simply doesn't matter if you give it a little extra dim light while spraying. Light destroys h2o2 very quickly. It needs 10mins to be properly effective at sanitizing. Going over it twice can prolong how long it stays moist for that to happen. Best option -- if you can isolate it, do it... it will spread. Very rarely will you kill it off, if it is dug in already. you can at least hold it back. i'd apply the h2o2 for multiple days even if you see no signs. it's probably lurking. spray under leaves too. use your trichome scope... you can see a distinct difference if it is on the buds... the trichomes have a net of hyphea over them .. stringy substance on them and not as easy to see stalk and head of individual trichomes. If you see that, i'd cut the buds off and if it's all over the plant, i'd trash the plant. some plants are more robust than others... hopefully you can simply remove the infection and all is well... can happen. The timing and how bad the infection is determines if i go with nuclear option... carefully remove and trash a dumpster fire.

30°C even if not optimum isn't dramatic either. I'm starting a fresh grow with temperature between 30°-34°C and i finished the last grow with temperature between 36° (along tent wall) and 40°C (20 cm right under the HPS bulb) last 3 flowering weeks leaves right under the bulb suffered from heat stress (resulting in manganese excess and calcium deficiency) while leaves along tent's wall were not affected. and my rh is between 40% and 60% you can eventually invest in a bigger extractor to renew the air faster inside the tent so it has less time to warm up.

Hey Growmie, Yes, drying in a cardboard box is perfectly fine, and if you are using the small fan make sure it doesn't blow directly on the buds, they'll dry too fast. With this set up it should take about 10-14 days for it to completely dry and be ready for jars. Congrats on your Harvest Also!