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And we are off! My first grow was a failure so I have started a new one.
Germinated in a glass of PH balanced water for almost 24 hours and then planted 1cm in the growth medium. Before planting I flushed the medium properly with PH balanced water.
7/8 seeds grew out the soil. Dug a bit to excavate the 8th, which germinated but I may have planted it too deep. Will see if it can be recovered
Goal for the grow: 350g total minimum
Once the seed sprouts its in Vegetative State. It can be a sprout, and young plant or a mature plant all in the time it is in veg, it just depends on its age. Photoperiods only switch to flower when you give them 12/12 light cycle. Its the uninterrupted darkness that does this. that's why you can keep a photoperiod plant in veg for years on 18/6 as the darkness is not longer enough.
50% dim for seedlings sounds ok, but cannabis can take a DLI of aorund 40 from seed, so give it all it can handle for maximum output of growth. I would not go above 40DLI though as it requires more CO2 and other enviroments to be in control. If you have any PPFD maps for your light at different hang heights and intensities "dim settings" you can figure out your DLI that way and get its in a ballpark range. I have to run my twin lights at aorund 60% to get 40DLI on 12/12 schedule.
Good Luck!
Changed the light to 50% intensity.
Started with nutrients.
I think I was a week late in adding the nutrients and the new light intensity so I went straight to the week 2 schedule of the biobizz chart, but kept the root juice as well.
Hoping to see some good growth explosion this week as I assume the plants were starved of nutrients as they are in coco and don’t have nutrients.
I upped the nutrients to week 2 of veg state (biobizz) and put the light to 50% intensity. I put the light at 6 inches above recommended height (which is recommended on the Mars Hydro website for beginners). . IS THIS NUTE BURN OR LIGHT BURN?
I'm not familiar with your nutes, but I think you're probably going too hot(strong) too soon. A plant this age barely has a root zone big enough to absorb anything to begin with, coco or not. With the nute line I use I'm barely using a teaspoon total per gallon on a young plant and you're pushing over 8 tsp per gallon. Feed light until either growth picks up or you are getting pale leaves, which tells you it's ready for more. You can't just load up a plant with nutes that's not ready and expect it to take off. Your first couple weeks are about building a root zone.
Absolutely decimated them with nutrient burn so have cut away leaves. Only one seems to be growing nicely and recovered. The rest are barely growing or growing very slowly. Have halved the nutrient schedule
I have struggled to get the temperature down and the air in the tent hasn’t felt right. I thought it had something to do with ventilation and I identified the embarrassing problem - my extractor fan was the wrong way, bringing air in. This was fixed at the end of last week and the air temperature and feeling immediately came right.
I hope to top the plants (or at least some of them) some time during this week. Coming into the week the largest plant had 3 developed sets of leaves with the 4th well on the way
Nute burn realisation - I overloaded the nutes and fed double the dosage early on as I misread the nutrient schedule, no wonder they were decimated - Unfortunately I made a similar mistake now and doubled the Fish Mix so may lose the 2 smaller plants. 2 Other plants showing early signs of nute burn. Have accepted that "it is what is it"
Also note that most of the pots now have roots growing through the bottom so we have great root growth.
Hoping for a major explosion of growth this week so that I can finally start training and then flip them into flower at the end of the month or latest end of the first week of February
FC 3000 - 66% 18" 18/6. over 12/12 bump to 100% from same distance. May need 19" but will take a long time to see any bleaching of buds. If you see any bleaching, 19" is probably better at 100% power and 12 hours of operation. If giving more than this, consider backing off. It may take a while for a light-stunted plant to recover.. may take a week in some cases. The FC-sereis of lights are powerful relative to the area they cover. You can use CO2 with these lights if the focus on grow area is sized right. So, it's easy to stunt plants with these lights when just relying on ambient CO2.
the early weeks are tough to see, but looks like they got a bit too much light, which may be why they are a bit slow. A top-down view is not the best, but just in case, i am mentioning it. you can see better in real life whether the nodes are too tightly spaced or not.
training leaves is fine, but make sure the top of the leaf is not shielded from light. Don't worry if the leaves shield the early branching. Light hitting all that surface area is FAR more important than any anecdotal reason to let light hit axillary buds more.
Keep on keeping on.....it seems you have a plan, stick to it and don't worry what others think or say about what you are doing. You are the master of your own destiny!
Hi buddy forst of all that is not nute burn by my eye anyway that seems to be sypmtoms of overwatering to me. I understand my fellow growers outrage. You are growing photoperiod plants so training early can be a good idea though you haveto weight up weather stunting a plant a seedling stage is worth the waste of time in growing when you could of been patient and topped them at a larger size so they did not stress so much. I would just use normal water for a few days and they let them growing like gotta said the best tool we have as growers is patience plants take time to grow and the more you in there fiddling around the less time they have to grow nice lol best of luck anyway ease up of the feed and if you dont wanna do that always follow your nutrients feed table its all there for you :)
Having topped last week and started the mainline, it looks like we will lose 2 plants which are fine. They were always stunted. 2 plants have rigorous new growth after the topping with some lagging
in veg stage nothing, in flower some bud rot or other mold ciguhikkgjan start with such spikes. you will need to increase air circulation later in stage or think about wise defoliation.
Quite disappointed with the growth. May be topping badly. Some of the topping has gone badly owing to:
-Snapped branches
-The topped plant only grew one new shoot so had no function.
Coming into the week on good terms. 2 stunted plants and 29 main colas between 6 other plants (average 4.8). Hoping to top once more and have 41 main colas next week.
Humidity is high and not sure how to get it down, the ventilation and is very good and a strong extractor fan, so the humidity is the same as outside the tent.
Will have flipped into flower by the end of the month, have lost a lot of main colas from snapping branches - rookie error.
My humidity is high but it is the same as outside the tent, which is the same as my whole house - my extractor fan is strong (if I use a lower fan the tent gets too hot as I have a 300w in a 2x2). What do I do? Closing the door makes the entire room and tent too hot
Hi there. I have just bough the FC-E 3000 and I run it in a 3x3. I have a 2x2 and run a 200w. To address the heat I would dim your light first. In veg you want about 20-30w per square foot and in flower no more than 50w. I would start dimming your light right down, get a smaller light or a bigger tent.
Either bring air from outside or exhaust outside.
Never have any water laying in trays or puddles.
I was thinking of putting the 300w in the 2x2 or the tsw but it's just too hot.
Try a phone app for light intensity.
A dehumidifier does also help. If you can have it to drain constantly it helps as they fill up quick.
Plants only use about 3% of water you give so have this in mind when sizing the dehumidifier
Better intake and out take fans is the key to lower humidity or you can bite the bullet and buy a small de humidifier that is another option there is always the option of adding more air curculation fans to try and get the warm moist air out the tent quicker the choices are yours buddy best of luck :)
Using a 300w light in a 2x2 tent so the tent got very hot. I put in a powerful extractor fan and all is good. Now the heat/humidity is the same inside and outside the tent. However the house humidity is too high. How would I bring it down?
Dehumidifier for humidity
Smaller light for heat so door will close
Growing autos can be done without tent
Smaller difference between night and day temps (checkout RELATIVE humidity)
When I take off a layer of soil there is a whole world of tiny white insects in my soil. What is this? Is this normal? Good? Bad? I’m using coco and perlite mix. They jump around very quickly when I expose them
Hey man, go look at my diary “organic autos round 2” these look and sound similar to what was crawling on the outsides of my fabric pots. I did spray the plants and fabric pots one good time with diluted 3% hydrogen peroxide which killed a lot of them but I saw them throughout the whole grow. I really noticed them going crazy after heavy waterings. I also don’t think they even bothered my plant. I saw some going up and down on the lower parts of the stem and some would even get stuck in the lower buds but i think It was because I’d water so heavy they’d have to scurry out of the soil. I wouldn’t worry too much about them unless you are seeing them all over your plant or your plants health declines
Hi grüß dich. Springschwänze kommen erst beim Gießen an die Oberfläche und springen wenn Wasser an der Oberfläche ist. Sobald das Wasser einsickert, laufen sie eher an der Oberfläche und suchen sich den Weg zurück in die Erde. Springschwänze ernähren sich in der Regel von totem material. Solange deine Pflanze ein gesunden Eindruck macht, sind die Springschwänze kein Problem.
This looks like something I had before when I overwatered some of the leaf tips started dieing like that.
Best to have a bit of a dry cycle in the medium so its not so waterlogged. then anaerobic bacteria flourish and upset the dynamic sometimes cause rot or PH swings.
Good Luck!
Moved the kids into a much larger tent - 3.3'x3x3'x6.5' from a 2'x2' (103x103x200xm).
I couldn't get the humidity down as there was no space in the old tent for a powerful dehumidifier which this one now has - I have it on a low setting and the humidity came down nicely (went to 40% on max power so I am good to go for when it comes time to flower).
The downside is the tent is tall so my light cannot go down to the planned 18"/47cm above the canopy, it's sitting at 21"/54cm, so to compensate I took the complete random guess to increase the light intensity of my light from 75% to around 85/90% - I mean they should be getting lots of sun now they have lots of leaves, right?
From a nutrient perspective, I have kept Fish-Mix at 2ml/l, instead of 1ml and adding BioHeaven, as I am running low on Bioheaven and its about 4 times the price.
I gave a proper redo on the training. 2 plants are ready for flower but instead I am going to keep training them out to see how many side notes I can get on the mainline. Expecting 2-3 side-cola pairs on tome of the main-cola stems. This is all guess work. The others have now new growth coming through after topping
I will maybe flip them into flower in 1 week time (start of week 7) or in 3 weeks time.
Excited to see how they grow out in the last few weeks of Veg
I moved my kids to a new larger tent. There is a larger distance from the light to to plants, different air flow and slightly cooler (more ideal temp range).
The kids seem to not be growing super fast anymore. How long till they adjust? Week 7
greater distance but new light.. missing some details to know if it is more or less light.. insufficient as is to draw a conclusion from this information.
however, after transplant i find plants can slow down slightly at first and have nothing to do with shock or anything like that... the roots search out new confines of the new pot before growth above really kicks in. Bigger the difference in pot sizes at translplat the longer this process takes.
still.. ensure intensity of light at canopy is the same... greater distance with more power can still be equal to what was given before (DLI is the metric here to use so that it accounts for differing hours of operation and differing size of garden covered by that light) 35-40 DLI "at diode" is a good starting point for ambient CO2 conditions and typical hanging distances for LED.
Less light intensity = less plant growth..........lower your lights and growth rates should return to normal.
Plants can't tell they are in a different tent, but will not like less light from a higher up, less intense lamp.
I can't see moving from one tent to another would really stress the plant out unless the 2 tents environments are completely different from each other.
Managed to lower the light to the correct 45cm/18 inches and put the light back to 75%
Hoping to get some good growth and a few new bud sights before flipping into flower in 2 weeks.
Hoping growth will be better than last week where I was very disappointed - barely created any new nodes on the main bud sites (one of of personal leading indicators of growth)
My humidity goes up to 70% with the light off (20C/68F) from around 55% with the light on (25C/77F).
Will this humidity be a problem for mould when I flip into flower?
My thoughts with high RH are that at 70% during lights off will be fine so long as your temps get to low, 20c should be fine, at 16c I'd imagine you will start getting rot or Wpm. This is as long as you are running your exhaust fan and oscillating fans. Your day time Rh and temps are at a decent level. Most of the time I can keep my night Rh around 60% but there are certain times during the year its almost impossible to keep it below 70%.
Spent a lot of time in the tent yesterday. Everything was fine and this morning there’s bad discolouration on the leaves of some plants.
I did lower the plant (was way too high) so may beight burn - but it’s only on some plants
I did make two mixes of water/nutes
Not really a huge problem and very simple to solve it. It is clear that you have a calcium imbalance, probably due to two main issues : at the moment perhaps the PH rate is very low (I assume that your PH rate is around 5.8 up to 6, and this rate is not the best for the calcium integration); second measure that you should start to provide right away is linked to the calcium available. You can solve this imbalance in not more than 36 hours, by raising the PH up to 6.3 to 6.5, after that you can provide some CalMag or solve some Bone flour in your watering process and to facilitate the integration of calcium you can put some Kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) on the watering solution both by fertirrigation or spraying in foliar sprinkling. You have one of the best liquid kelp supplies on the Cultivers brand (on Amazon) and kelp is a kind of the magic solution for almost every stress or imbalances that you can pass trough your grows. So as I told you you can solve this problem (easily and fast - within not more than 2 days): raise up PH to 6.3/6.4 ; use a little CalMag (important...not a lousy brand but a good one, and preferable a mineral one) and finally use kelp as a stress reducer and as catalysator to calcium integration (the calcium normally is available in much products, but it's vertical availability and the way that is integrated is hard. The last option and once for me was the most optimal (but almost desperate) solution was using what a botanical PhD friend of mine, though me to do as desperate measure, that was to pick tomato seeds, let them fully dry and after that using a Moulinex grinder (the ones that you pull 1-2-3) and make a tomato seeds flour. That flour has a strong compound of calcium, the calcium oxalate that is very solvable in water and highly absorbable by the root system. So I used that once (not on cannabis, but on peppers that have revealed nasty lack of calcium along their growth) and solved my problems, very very fast. So try this and you problems with calcium shortage will be end in few days.
Ya it's normal .. humidity can accumulate in some areas and not others depending on air flow and how cramped an area may be ... all should be ok just try to get better circulation in the area at 70%
Last week of veg and then will flip into flower
The plants I burnt over a week ago with incorrect PH barely grew after so hopefully they recover when I flip into flower
I am flipping to 12/12 light today but some nice buds sites are covered by long leaves.
What’s the thoughts on defoliation just before flower. Should I defoliate lightly or not
The day has finally arrived! I have flipped the light cycle to 12:12. Super excited !!!
I flipped to 12:12 and 100% power on day 1 and immediately started giving the flowering nutrient schedule - didn’t realise it would take a while to go into flower. Anyway no issues noted
Judging by the last week I think I have just entered flower. Still waiting for the stretch.
Still using week 1 of flower nutrients per the biobizz nutrient schedule
The buds have really fattened up and make your hands quite sticky to the touch. The bud sites have also started to join together. I wonder how much thicker these can get.
Unfortunately I haven’t been able to attend to the kids properly so they've had multiple days between waterings and that’s now showing in 2 plants.
In a few days I’ll do a major defoliation to expose light to the bud sites and get the plant to focus more on bud production instead of leaves.
After major defoliation last week, I have upped the nutrients to week 3 of flower per the Biobizz schedule.
I have accepted that the stretch isn't going to happen so I have now got rid of a fortune of the fan leaves and hope that this makes the buds explode.
I can see lower down bud sites, specifically on the yellow plant, that had virtually no sun, curious to see how those react now.
The defoliation also showed me how badly I trained some plants. Some plants had areas full of nugs fighting for light, with large open spaces - I think this was exacerbated by snapping the stems early on in the mainlining.
I have tightened and lowered my ScrOG net and must say, I really like this! I will likely use the ScrOG as the main training method instead of plant ties for my next grow
Hoping to harvest in 4-5 weeks
During the week I put in a more powerful outlet and inlet fan, as well as added an additional fan inside the tent
ObserverInterest
