First tent grow

That's not enough to cause what you see. You need more perlite in your medium. (or similkar amendment improving drainage and aeration. 50% in high capacity medium like peat moss or soil and you can do 2:1 in coco (70/30 is often found pre-mixed and close enough) They look hungry. cotys are paling from tip-in... needs nitrogen at the least. watering habits: water entire pot... top layer dries, repeat. stick to that for a consistent wet-dry cycle. it promotes deep roots and reduces superficial roots. shouldn't see roots in top 1" if you do it right, barring a very extended stay in the pot, lol. get it fed right / watered correctly.. probably gonna be droopy after every irrigation with lack of drainage amendment, but if not that's good. nothing you can do about that part. then re-assess the droop. definitely not root rot. they look lily white. a few laps around is not rootbound. I've had a plant in a solo cup for 6 months before, lol.. it wasn't until late month 3 or into 4 that it started to show issues with nutrients. Not recommended, but shows how long it takes for a properly fed plant to show signs of being rootbound.

Your roots actually look pretty strong. My Best guesses with the symptoms you described is Root bounding or Overwatering. I usually avoid starting in such small pots, as they dry out very quickly. Which can lead to under or overwatering and they don't provide many benefits. They don't stay in the perfect range for long without frequent watering. If that is the case it may take 2-3 days to see signs of re-greening. Best of luck and Happy Growing.

For the next time transplant a bit faster. When I see the first roots at the bottom I transplant straight away to prevent rootbound. But for now you want to water more away from the plant on the outside of the pot. This will force the roots to search for the water and develop a healthier and larger rootsystem while doing this.

Light/heat stress raises your light higher or lowers the power of the light will lower heat also. see the new leaves and how are curling up, The sign also checks your humidity can be the reason. But you say is only on this plant then this could be the light DLI hit stronger there 🍻

I grew that strain in all possible conditions. Hate RQS, but its great strain, was taking any pain. Something heavily wrong with feeding. Looking at diary and amounts, plus bleaching .... think you firstly - overfed, secondly - your pots are overwatered. Maybe light too intence to add to all. I did grows in soil with 0 nutes, you bombard such small already ... Sort those two, raise lights and all should go way better. Good luck !

Your soil looks like it needs a good soaking. If you haven't had any runoff at all then your soil is to hot, the roots will hit dry patches and not like it. Water all the soil until runoff, wait for top inch to dry before watering again.

nitrogen and calcium but if soil reminds just overwatering and pots (rich in food) ph swing. triple check ph in and water only when pots are light if its soil in coco - only ph, plant cant uptake, but you feed too heavy too. some plant are light feeders. direct wind or coldest corner can play a bit and look similar, but i would bet on my theory

You're plants are doing fine, you might have had a small issue with PH fluctuations but other then that you're doing fine, make sure your VPD is on point and keep doing what you're

I think you got some pH issues goin on there. And perhaps some suffocating roots. The back right corner plant looks ok but the droopy wrinkled leaves suggest the issues mentioned. Keep your pH 6.2 going in, always. And water only when the pots feel light. If they feel heavy, turn around and fuck off. :)

It will starting wilt if it not healed. let see in the morning or other days like Hashy mention. btw if it heal it is very impressive lol

I think you have a really good shot of that growing back in buddy thats some impressive work. are you a surgeon in the real world lol. I dont think it will do you much harm if you lose the branch anyway buddy just let her veg for a few extra days if its a photo if its a auto well then best of luck lool them little suckers hate stress lool

I'm sorry to hear about the accident with your Royal Gorilla plant. When a cannabis plant is damaged, especially a significant branch like a top branch, it can be quite a shock to the plant. However, cannabis plants are known for their resilience and ability to recover from damage, though the success of recovery can vary. Since you've reattached the branch quickly using a clamp and tape, there's a chance the plant might be able to repair itself. This kind of repair is similar to the process of grafting, where parts of plants are joined together so they continue to grow as one plant. Here are some points to consider: 1. **Observation:** Keep a close eye on the damaged area. If the branch remains green and starts to show new growth, it's a good sign. If it starts to wilt or turn brown, it may not have reattached successfully. 2. **Support:** Make sure the clamp and tape are secure but not too tight. You want to allow for some natural growth and movement. 3. **Healing Time:** It can take several days to a week or more for the plant to attempt to heal itself. Be patient. 4. **Plant Health:** Ensure the plant is otherwise healthy - adequate water, nutrients, and light are essential for recovery. 5. **Clean Cut:** If the branch doesn't recover and starts to die, you may need to cleanly cut it off to prevent any potential for disease or rot to spread to the rest of the plant. 6. **Reduced Stress:** Try to minimize stress on the plant from other sources. This includes maintaining a stable environment (temperature, humidity, light cycles). 7. **Potential for Topping:** If the branch doesn't survive, the plant will likely respond by growing out its side branches more, which can be beneficial in its own way. This is similar to a technique known as "topping," used to encourage bushier growth. 8. **Watch for Infection:** Keep an eye out for signs of infection at the wound site. If the area looks unhealthy, take action to remove the affected parts. Remember, each plant's ability to recover from damage varies depending on its overall health, the strain, and the extent of the injury. Even if this branch doesn't survive, your plant can still grow successfully with proper care and attention :-)

I am not an experienced enough grower to be able to provide any firsthand advice, but I have used this site to troubleshoot with good results: https://drcannabis.io/symptoms - good luck!

Checking Ph of runoff in soil,is usseles,you have to check it in soil,with special ph meter for soil,this will be more accurate. About Ec i would say ,yeah they are nutrient deficient!

Personally I wouldn't worry about ph in runoff. The EC measures the run off, you need the correct pH BEFORE u feed or the plant can't uptake any nutrients. Ph of feed water needs to fluctuate between 6.5 and 7.5. Coco is 5.5 - 6.5....some people do confuse coco with soil though . Red stems defo are phosphorus deficiency but your plant is lacking everything at the minute. Adjust feed ph and possibly increase nutes, I know coco ec should be 1.6-1.8 at your stage, not 100% sure what it should be in soil.

It's not WPM, I'm not sure of the name of it but it needs to get cut out. You would be ready to flip but I wouldn't until you have kept a close eye on the others, if it's spread to the other plants then your chances of having a harvest without moldy buds is slim. I'd remove the plant or cut away the cola that's effected. Check others daily for a week or 2 and if there is no more then flip. This is just my opinion and may not be the best advice. Search the Internet to find what it actually is.

I agree with organoman. It's botrytis. Completely eliminate the fungus from your plants before flipping. Since the preferred spot for this fungus is the dense buds. Control your humidity and temperature. I see in your diary that you have a small fan for air circulation and your indoor temperature isn't very high. I think the problem lies in the humidity.

I think it’s powdery mildew. I got this on an outdoor plant before and it was because it was too humid and like no airflow for an extended period of time. I strongly advise to get this taken care of before you think about flowering because this can happen in buds FAR EASIER than a plant in veg. Check your humidity levels and temps. Increase airflow and ventilation out of the tent and if you are spraying your plants, stop immediately Remember mold grows in wet and stagnate clients. I hope this helps.

Without a doubt, there’s a nutrient blockage, and something is definitely going on with the pH that is causing the blockage. Right now, there’s no need to place major blame on nitrogen contributions. You’re already in flowering, and any amount of nitrogen in the nutrients is no longer the most important thing, but what I think is that you’re definitely dealing with the wrong pH. What’s the Mg contribution you’re giving, and have you started with the flowering boosters? My opinion is that throughout this week, you should give some waterings with kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum), for example, the liquid one from Cultivers on Amazon is great, and first check if your pH is coming out lower than necessary or too high. At this point, my idea is that rather than focusing too much on the EC of the system, you should see if you’re watering enough; for me, during this period, you should always keep the pH between 6.2 and 6.6, due to the integration of what is now more necessary: magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. But it could also be that you’re experiencing some water stress and most likely have low water in the system. Increase the water to 1 liter per day and keep the pH between 6.2 and 6.6, and if you balance the pH, you definitely won’t have nutrient blockages. From what I see, there are three essential problems at this moment - first, a magnesium blockage that is very clear, and when the magnesium pump isn’t working, phosphorus and potassium also have lower systemic availability. Kelp is incredible for optimizing nutrient availability. Then I also see that there’s a water deficit in the system. Kelp will almost immediately replenish nutrients that aren’t being integrated correctly. Watering daily with 1 liter of water between 6.2 and 6.6 meets the integration margins for magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium, and with that, you’ll recover the health of the grow in no time. A hug, and don’t panic, but you need to act very quickly... the pH is the foundation of everything that’s happening.

If the yellowing didn't start from the bottom going up it is more potassium related due to high demand in flowering. If it did start low then it is nitrogen related. Flowering npk ratio is 1-2-3.

Increase your micro, add a P/K booster and do what grey wolf said.

I´d start flushing if you havent already and harvest in a week. Can´t see any amber and still seems to have some cloudy ones. Keep an eye, i like 10% or more amber trichomes. Dont worry about the weeks, some phenos just take longer. Great grow!

Very impressive buddy well done on creating such nice plants and haveing the patience well done you sir but yes these are ready and awesome trike development,.

Well and truly ready....harvest now.