First tent grow

Light/heat stress raises your light higher or lowers the power of the light will lower heat also. see the new leaves and how are curling up, The sign also checks your humidity can be the reason. But you say is only on this plant then this could be the light DLI hit stronger there 🍻

I grew that strain in all possible conditions. Hate RQS, but its great strain, was taking any pain. Something heavily wrong with feeding. Looking at diary and amounts, plus bleaching .... think you firstly - overfed, secondly - your pots are overwatered. Maybe light too intence to add to all. I did grows in soil with 0 nutes, you bombard such small already ... Sort those two, raise lights and all should go way better. Good luck !

Your soil looks like it needs a good soaking. If you haven't had any runoff at all then your soil is to hot, the roots will hit dry patches and not like it. Water all the soil until runoff, wait for top inch to dry before watering again.

nitrogen and calcium but if soil reminds just overwatering and pots (rich in food) ph swing. triple check ph in and water only when pots are light if its soil in coco - only ph, plant cant uptake, but you feed too heavy too. some plant are light feeders. direct wind or coldest corner can play a bit and look similar, but i would bet on my theory

You're plants are doing fine, you might have had a small issue with PH fluctuations but other then that you're doing fine, make sure your VPD is on point and keep doing what you're

I think you got some pH issues goin on there. And perhaps some suffocating roots. The back right corner plant looks ok but the droopy wrinkled leaves suggest the issues mentioned. Keep your pH 6.2 going in, always. And water only when the pots feel light. If they feel heavy, turn around and fuck off. :)

It will starting wilt if it not healed. let see in the morning or other days like Hashy mention. btw if it heal it is very impressive lol

I think you have a really good shot of that growing back in buddy thats some impressive work. are you a surgeon in the real world lol. I dont think it will do you much harm if you lose the branch anyway buddy just let her veg for a few extra days if its a photo if its a auto well then best of luck lool them little suckers hate stress lool

I'm sorry to hear about the accident with your Royal Gorilla plant. When a cannabis plant is damaged, especially a significant branch like a top branch, it can be quite a shock to the plant. However, cannabis plants are known for their resilience and ability to recover from damage, though the success of recovery can vary. Since you've reattached the branch quickly using a clamp and tape, there's a chance the plant might be able to repair itself. This kind of repair is similar to the process of grafting, where parts of plants are joined together so they continue to grow as one plant. Here are some points to consider: 1. **Observation:** Keep a close eye on the damaged area. If the branch remains green and starts to show new growth, it's a good sign. If it starts to wilt or turn brown, it may not have reattached successfully. 2. **Support:** Make sure the clamp and tape are secure but not too tight. You want to allow for some natural growth and movement. 3. **Healing Time:** It can take several days to a week or more for the plant to attempt to heal itself. Be patient. 4. **Plant Health:** Ensure the plant is otherwise healthy - adequate water, nutrients, and light are essential for recovery. 5. **Clean Cut:** If the branch doesn't recover and starts to die, you may need to cleanly cut it off to prevent any potential for disease or rot to spread to the rest of the plant. 6. **Reduced Stress:** Try to minimize stress on the plant from other sources. This includes maintaining a stable environment (temperature, humidity, light cycles). 7. **Potential for Topping:** If the branch doesn't survive, the plant will likely respond by growing out its side branches more, which can be beneficial in its own way. This is similar to a technique known as "topping," used to encourage bushier growth. 8. **Watch for Infection:** Keep an eye out for signs of infection at the wound site. If the area looks unhealthy, take action to remove the affected parts. Remember, each plant's ability to recover from damage varies depending on its overall health, the strain, and the extent of the injury. Even if this branch doesn't survive, your plant can still grow successfully with proper care and attention :-)

I am not an experienced enough grower to be able to provide any firsthand advice, but I have used this site to troubleshoot with good results: https://drcannabis.io/symptoms - good luck!

Checking Ph of runoff in soil,is usseles,you have to check it in soil,with special ph meter for soil,this will be more accurate. About Ec i would say ,yeah they are nutrient deficient!

Personally I wouldn't worry about ph in runoff. The EC measures the run off, you need the correct pH BEFORE u feed or the plant can't uptake any nutrients. Ph of feed water needs to fluctuate between 6.5 and 7.5. Coco is 5.5 - 6.5....some people do confuse coco with soil though . Red stems defo are phosphorus deficiency but your plant is lacking everything at the minute. Adjust feed ph and possibly increase nutes, I know coco ec should be 1.6-1.8 at your stage, not 100% sure what it should be in soil.

It's not WPM, I'm not sure of the name of it but it needs to get cut out. You would be ready to flip but I wouldn't until you have kept a close eye on the others, if it's spread to the other plants then your chances of having a harvest without moldy buds is slim. I'd remove the plant or cut away the cola that's effected. Check others daily for a week or 2 and if there is no more then flip. This is just my opinion and may not be the best advice. Search the Internet to find what it actually is.

Coinsido con organoman. Es botrytis. Elimine por completo el hongo de sus plantas antes de voltear. Ya que el lugar preferido de este hongo son los cogollos densos. Controle su humedad y temperatura. Veo en su diario que tiene un pequeño ventilador para la circulación del aire y la temperatura de su indoor no son muy altas. Pienso que el problema está en la humedad.

I think it’s powdery mildew. I got this on an outdoor plant before and it was because it was too humid and like no airflow for an extended period of time. I strongly advise to get this taken care of before you think about flowering because this can happen in buds FAR EASIER than a plant in veg. Check your humidity levels and temps. Increase airflow and ventilation out of the tent and if you are spraying your plants, stop immediately Remember mold grows in wet and stagnate clients. I hope this helps.

Sin duda un bloqueo por nutrientes y sin duda quepa algo pasa con el PH que es el motivo del bloqueo. En este momento no hay por qué echar culpas mayores a aportaciones de nitrógeno. Ya estás en floración y algo es un cantidad no significante de nitrógeno en los nutrientes que ya no es lo más importante, pero lo que me parece es que seguro estás con en PH equivocado. Cuál el aporte de Mg que le estás dando y más ya has empezado con los inductores de floración. Mi opinión es que puedas a lo largo de esta semana darle algún que otro riego con kelp(Ascophyllum nodosum), por ejemplo el de Cultivers de Amazon en líquido es buenísimo y primero que veas si estás con un PH de salida ó mas bajo que lo necesario o demasiado alto. Para estas fechas mi idea sea que más que estar con mucha idea sobre el EC del sistema, que veas si estás con riegos que para mí, en el periodo que ya estás sería, tener siempre el PH entre 6,2 y 6,6, por la integración de lo que ahora es más necesario, magnesio, fosforo y potasio. Mas puede también que estés con algo de estrés hidrico y casi seguro con poca agua en el sistema. Sube el agua a 1 Litro al día y PH entre 6,2 a 6,6 y si haces nivelar el PH seguro no tendrás bloqueos de nutrientes. Por lo que veo hay tres problemas esenciales en este momento - primero un bloqueo de magnesio que es clarísimo y cuando la bomba de magnesio no marcha, el fósforo y el potasio también tienen menor disponibilidad sistemica. El Kelp es increíble en optimizar la disponibilidad de los nutrientes Después también veo que hay déficit de agua en el sistema. El kelp hará la reposición casi inmediata de nutrientes que no esten siendo integrados de modo correcto. El agua con riegos diarios de 1 litro de agua entre 6,2 y 6,6 cumplen los márgenes de integración de magnesio y de fósforo y potasio y con ello recuperarás en un instante la salud del grow. Un abrazo y que no haya pánico, pero debes actuar de manera muy rápida...el PH es la base de todo lo que está pasando.

If the yellowing didn't start from the bottom going up it is more potassium related due to high demand in flowering. If it did start low then it is nitrogen related. Flowering npk ratio is 1-2-3.

Increase your micro, add a P/K booster and do what grey wolf said.