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I chose a very small potting tray for seedling (see diary)in order to master watering from beginning to large pot and want to know when it would need to be transplanted? I’m thinking I want to see roots from the bottom drainage but don’t want it to become root bound.
Give it 2 more sets of leaf growth. Then there should be enough roots to hold the soil enough for transplant without the root ball crumbling apart in your hands. And when you do, don't plant in a clear container. Roots don't want light, at all.
I would transfer now as, Organoman says. You could wait for the 3-fingered leaves to develop and then transfer, but you should definitely transfer before the set of 5-fingered leaves fully develop.
If the soil will hold when upside down on your palm of hand (ie dry) you can safely move at any time, I'd do sooner rather than later, especially with such small starting point + 🌱 already established
Hey guys, my photo sour d has some earlier growth showing some yellowing in the center of a few leaves. I fed this plant a foliar spray of cal mag plus way back in the 2nd or 3rd week and it got burned on the leaves but does this look more like a deficiency?
Slight nutrient burn on the tips, otherwise it looks fine. Yellowing is caused by lack of Nitrogen. It is an easy fix and can be fixed in one feeding. The brown spots could be very early signs of Manganese, however if it isn't fixed by your cal-mag then flush and re water with 6-6.2 ph water. All things considered, the plant still looks good.
I trim my big fan leafs if they are covering up to much of the plant. At week 9 you defiantly can defoliate your extra leafs.
I Lollipop right before I start flower. I remove anything under my canopy that will not get adequate light to produce. This will enable the plant to focus its energy on the bud sites that matter. Don’t worry, sometimes it may look like you took a ton off but I promise that it will be ok.
My feeding chart for photoperiods by advanced nutrients and it says to use 4ml /l of the micro grow bloom throughout flower. Obviously, If I see nute deficiences I will increase nutes but it seems odd to me to keep it at 4. I feel I will have to increase but asking just in case.
They spent millions on R&D..........they would not recommend something that is going to disappoint its' customers.
They have their guidelines for a reason.
Remember............
it is very easy to fix a slightly underfed plant, but very, very hard to rescue a burned and damaged over fed plant!
There’s 9 main growth sites (future colas) that were once level and growing the same. They are no longer and I think I’ll let them go. My question: a few inches of difference between colas height isn’t a big deal right? I mean as long as it’s in a 12-18 away from light?
Okay. So, you're in pre flower stage. So max ppfd isn't needed.
Nor should u lower your light that close as its still a growth stage.
Once pre flower is over you can then even out ur canopy by HST'in / supercropping.
Also, to slow nodes that are growing more than others.
Take a few of their bigge fan leafs off. This will slow tat nodes growth. (But becareful as ur in a stage where any major Defoliations shouldn't be done) but 2 sets of fan leafs off nodes won't cause too much stress it'll slow that nodes upward growth.
Really its not a major thing to worry about.
DLI, good feeds methods, air flow, temp and no light stress. These things will suit u more in getting a successful grow. After pre flower that's when light intensity comes much more into play.
Good
What is this deficiency please:
It’s only on some leaves, I went ahead and gave mag cal plus to them tonight just in case. Otherwise there is slight bite burn to the tips of most leaves :/
Magnesium.
Symptoms show in the leaves 2-3 weeks after the problem starts in the root zone.
Remedy will take 2-3 weeks to show in the leaves once cal/mag is increased.
Cal/mag weekly is probably where you are at.
What happens when nute issues start affecting big fan leaves providing energy to the main colas? Please see the 90 def plant bender on the leaf I’m referring to, it is slowly dying and it’s inevitable that I’ll have to clean up these branches. Am I in for a rough time?
Weeks 6-8 of flowering is when buds start fattening up correct? That’s why I’m using overdrive this last two weeks of nutrients and then doing a 2 week flush where buds will mature more? I plan to check trichomes week 8 at the end.
Week 6-8 is a good "average" but it will still be largely based off strain and conditions. Overdrive is a finishing product that's intended to increase your terps/essential oils, Advanced Nutrients bulking enhancer is a product called "Big Bud". I've never used Advanced Nutrients so I can't say how effective it is. I do use a similar product from General Hydroponics called KoolBloom and I like the results. Two weeks is a bit much for your flush in my opinion. I do 1 week in soil, 4 days in coco or 24 hours in hydro. You don't wanna start it too early or you could miss out on some bulking.
@ItsGrowingOnMe, Hi there...with Auto's, it's best to plant the germinated seed directly into your growing container that will be used throughout your plants lifetime...Youcan transplant Auto's,
don't get me wrong..But you wanna cause as little stress as possible to the autoflower 😊🤞
@AutoflowersSucK, I replaced the top layer with dry soil and raised the tray and made sure ventilation blows underneath it. I’ll check it every 6 hours until dry
Hi there I saw you asked about lighting for your 4x2. What you have is just right for your space. A ts600 is it ? The 100w is made for a 2x2 so two is spot on. For a boost in flowering adding another and equally spacing the 3 out. That would be 300w by buying another 100w. For the same 300w you could upgrade to the tsl2000 or even better one from the fc series. I have the tsw2000 and a fc-e3000 from mars. Good liggts
2 strains
Vanilla Latte Autoflower
Red Strawberry Banana Auto
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