Gorilla zkittlez #Barney’s farm from seeds on balcony

Should not be a problem. Its one in the same thing. Does the microbes break down the whole ingredient things into N or do you provide the N directly to the substrate like with urea. Some things like excess P can be harmful to fungi but we are growing weed not fungus. and even then it won't kill it off, it will just reduce its growth. I grow in soil outdoors and use manures and compost as well as liquid additives like salt based fertilizers. everything works out. Long term is where the issue can come from but just add back into the soil and your good.

Hello Snakeking, Great SCROGS! You did train them really good! Yes she is in the early flowering phase now and no she is NOT an autoflower. Autoflowers start to flower after 1 month, sometimes 1 week faster or slower but around 1 month. You can replace the grow nutrients now for flowering nutrients. Happy growing buddy!

You’re outside so I’d say that your watering will be directed a lot by weather. If it’s raining or not, how hot it has been and all that. I would say you also probably can’t check the weight of the pot as you’re under trellis. I would stick my finger down in the soil a bit to check the soil. If it’s dry or pretty close to dry and not going to rain then water. As for feeding, that’s upto your plant really. Manufacturers have guidance for you with a schedule and ratios, but sometimes a girl might want more or less. You definitely don’t have to feed with every water typically (unless your plant demands it). Most recommendations are water, water, feed & repeat. Hope you find what makes your girls happiest. It looks like they’re doing well though already with whatever you’re doing

Hello Snakeking, you never ask too many questions about growing weed on a weed growing website! To create dense buds you need a lot of light in the first place. You can see the sun light as the main dish and the nutrients as the vitamines. For nutrients you need to provide enough P (Phosphorus), K (Potassium) and Ca (Calcium) to make the buds fat, dense, juicy and sticky! I've got great experience with Bio Bloom from Biobizz. This contains enough P and K for during the flowering phase. And I would add the Calmag from Biobizz because this really helps to make the buds harder and more dense! Happy Growing buddy! 💚

Quite often, plants with big fat leaves will change to small narrow leaves during flowering. All this is natural and it will not affect your plant negatively. From my experience, I think this occurs because the chances of getting pollinated with thin leaves is probably higher than with wide, fat leaves. Some Indicas, with wide thick and large leaves, often end up looking like Sativas during flowering, with long, thin and smaller leaves! Not to worry, your plant "knows" what to do.

Hello Snakeking, if you or someone you know got a basement you can dry it there. The climate inside a basement is pretty stable. Another option is a portable airconditioning. The last option is accepting that your flowers dry faster. Just make sure that you put them inside the curing jar before it can keep a stable humidity inside the jar from 62%

Hello Snakeking, If you were growing indoor I would say yes to a second net to keep the buds on the same height and distance from the lamp. But because you are growing outdoor a second net is not needed and your single SCROG net is all you need. Happy Growing Buddy!

Not necessarily, lower leaves in shadow can turn yellow due to not enough light, and not due to deficiencies of any sort. Your plants look great, I would be not worried at all, just proud of your achievements. In future, pictures showing the exact issue you are asking about would be much, much better than posting videoes.

Hello Snakeking, If the days really get longer the plants will just switch back to vegging. And if it turns out that it is an autoflower it will keep flowering till ready for harvest. Happy Growing Buddy! 💚

Hello Snakeking, No you do NOT want to increase the grow nutrients. Your plant got enough nitrogen and increasing will only cause Nitrogen toxicity and other problems. Happy Growing Buddy! 💚

Hello Snakeking, You want to start giving flowering nutrients when the plant stops stretching (pre-flowering). This will be around 2-3 weeks after you noticed the first pistils (buds start to form). Happy Flowering Buddy! 💚

hey mate, You can take of a few Fan-Leaves yes. It helps to prevent mold and better gives penetration to buds. but dont go to heavy, preferably very big ones that, leaves that shadow your plant a lot or that a very low. And better a small amount every day than ripping your plant. Its more stress and mostly not as certain as a day by day cut where you take your time. While doing that keep in mind that the sun is very powerful and its deepness is endless in terms of growing. It has good penetration, so dont defoliate too much or lolipopp outdoors. You should use the pros outdoor growing gifts you. You dont have to cut away much, since everything is lighted pretty well and therefor can give you extreme big harvests. Later on with buds i would cut way more, to prevent mold on your buds. Happy Growing mate!

Hello Snakeking, They are NOT small, they look great. They will fatten up for at least another month buddy. At the end she will give you big fat juicy buds to harvest! Happy Growing! 💚

Hello Snakeking, No this is not necessary, the plant is now in the pre-flowering phase. She is still hungry for Nitrogen (N) what is a lot in grow nutrients. And still not that much in P and K what you can find in blooming nutrients. Wait 2 more weeks before switching from grow to bloom nutrients. Happy Growing Buddy! 💚

Hello Snakeking, From the moment the buds will start to form. Let's say at the same moment you will start feeding the blooming nutrients in 2 weeks from now. Happy Growing! 💚

Hello Snakeking, I got 1 advise, stop worry so much. Your plants are looking great! You do not have any deficiencies, you do not have any pest damage and you trained the plants into a great shape. They will reward you with a lot of weed. Start to enjoy growing and react on what the plant does. Just take a few minutes a day to study the plant and look what you can improve. We can always help you with that but it is mainly the plant that got to do the work and you need to listen to the plant. For now they will tell you that they are happy and doing great! Happy Growing Buddy! 💚

Your plants are looking healthy in the diary, I would not worry to much about it. Soil is a different beast and tends to manage its own PH just fine. Normally I do not water till runoff when I grow in soil as I use dry amendments for feeding my plants, If your useing liquid nutrients I suppose some runoff can be ok once in awhile, but soils tend to be more compact then soilless and get waterlogged easily. Ideally I avoid it. With this said I have not grown with biobuzz but do grow in soil. I think its fine.

Er sikker på du skal have din ph værdi ned vil gætte på den er omkring 7 t 7.5 det gør den faktisk går i stå . Pas på m at overdrive m gødning der skader mere end man tror 😊💚😇😉👌held og lykke med grow til dig growmie 😉

Always a good idea to shield them from rain! If I would do outdoor that's what I am thinking about too. Some see-through cover above, some gravel to stand on against insekts and some fly netting around the plant against insekts but letting air through. Since your cover looks like being higher on one side, rain should rinse of. Much success 🤞and Happy Growing

There are earth mushrooms and those who grow on top of things. This doesn’t annoy the roots of your soil or take place from them, unless it’s some special type that changes ph or something in your soil it’s coolio. But I would check for that, I’m not a mushroom expert but that’s what theoretically can happen 👌

I think it’s fine to have this color when changing from veg into flower. Some plants go through this when they transition into flower you have to find your sweet spot with the nutrients but other than that it looks very healthy and lush Good luck!

outside? nah. if rh is that low, extra leaves can help. Just spread it out as best you can outside. it is swimming in photons from all angles. The focus here is not like artificial lights where you have a specific zone of stronger light that you want to maximize. youo want to maximize entire plant outside. You'll still have the effects of apical dominance. With experience you may find some light pruning underneath is helpful, but never think it increases yield or redistributes bud mass elsewhere.. that will never, never be 1:1 and many times simply not at all - this will always reult in less yield, but possibly improve ratio of 'better' nugs. read to defoliate or not on cocoforcannabis. always have a good reason to prune soemthing off. never blindly/whimsically do it.

When growing in soil organically, all you need to do as a "flush" is stop all feeding/fertilizers for the last 10-14 days before the expected harvest day. There is no need to drown your plants with gallons of water, just give plain water, in normal amounts and at normal intervals for those last 10-14 days and the plant will "flush" itself naturally. This is all that is required and something I have been doing for 35 years..........it works.

It might block some UV, but should be fine. If it rains make sure it's dry before the sun comes out again. Puddles can act like magnifying glass and burn your plants. Otherwise good luck!

KISS..Keep it simple stupid. I'm not calling you stupid its just an old time saying which certainly rings true. Lack of diversity is the problem when using microbes out the bottle as theres 1000s of different types that all feed on each other and the best only has a dozen or so vermicompost is one of the best sourcesbut you have no idea how old it is as they aren't likely to live longer than 18mnths.All that molasses wont help though.They go into a frenzy when they feed on it and its more than likely to effect their relationship with the roots. The plant will attract certain microbes it needs at certain times but if they've got sugar there then they're not likely to want the plant food so aren't doing their job as they should. I don't tea every week. I don't once or twice in veg over several weeks and a few times during the start and mid flower.Its more likely to do it harm than good.

erm I personally wouldnt I mean compost tea is mainly used for living soil. you might end up over feeding if you use it along side nutrients. It could be beneficial but I think you'll be adding another parameter to go wrong if you wanna know for sure what I always recommend is if possible test it out on a plant you don't really care about then see the effects if they are good use it on your plants if not then don't :) best of luck buddy.

Hey, A Shade could help + some fans could help but you can't change the weather

do outdoor plants get flushed? do the nutes in the soil outside cause a problem if you dont? no, of course not. it absolutely doesn't matter if it is so called "organic" or "mineral" fertilizers. it may impact how long you can go without fertilizing and a starved, decimated canopy. decimating teh canopy does not change the flavor of the flower, lol. if not overfed you can fertilize to the end - do apply common sense. if in soil, you can be lazy and give water-only irrigations and save some effort for up to 2 weeks - again depends a lot on your previous feeding habits. soilless might hold up 5-7 days of water-only. so, don't ignore and toxicity symptoms and do react to them accordingly. if you do start irrigating with water-only and the canopy degrades too fast, you can always give it some more fertilizer, too. It'd be really hard to screw this up as long as you apply common sense to waht you observe. don't over think it. if it's a toxic mess, do flush the substrate, that's the point of flushing... diluting the substrate. you cannot dilute what is already in the plant. it has no excretion system. flushing won't affect that but will help slowdown whatever is built up from entering the plant.

Short answer is genetics. All plants are different, even 2 seeds from the same pack can come out very different. This is why pheno hunting is a huge part of growing and breeding.

Compost is full of life that's why we use it to grow our crops in Russia.

Yes, you always want to harvest your plant at the end of flowering. When the pistils are white and fresh like this it is a big sign that it is still busy. The only time you will have a lot of white pistils and need to harvest is if you have foxtailing. Otherwise I use the pistils as an indicator of what the rest of the flower is doing and once 90% are dead and brown, your trichomes are probably starting to be ready. Always judge the trichomes on the flower, the sugar leaves can be older than the bud and ripen early, but the majority are on the flower and those are the ones you should be worried about. Also, autos can do strange things. I have had a few that grew for 16 or 17 weeks and were meant to be done in 11 or 12.

High bro, I did not see your plants for a while, they are looking great now! Only defoliate when leaves are really stacked on eachother and when you can feel moist in between those leaves. This can cause mold and other issues. But next to that there is really NO reason to defoliate an outside plant. It will only decrease yield. ou want those leaves to send the energy from the sun to those nice juicy buds! 😋 Happy Growing Buddy! 💚

Looks longer than a week. if you start scoping trichomes too early, you will find mature trichomes, but if the plant isn't near the end, this is misinformation. The calyxes around the white hairs need to plump, first. then start looking at the trichomes - only on calyxes, not on the leaves. if you start getting too much fade, do start up the fertilization again. you may have 2 weeks remaining. It's hard to guesstimate accurately.

Mostly it's word of mouth. People are extremely susceptible to confirmation bias, on average. Mix in a little ego, and they think anything they do 'definitely improved the results" despite a small sample size and never comparing it to a control group. this is how we end up with myths like defoliation for the sake of defoliation, flushing at end of harvest and other bro-science concepts. I've grown stuff caked in trichomes and stuff less densley populated with trichomes... it's genetics. simple as that. there is no magic bullet to polish a turd. Even if it does help, the effect is something tiny even if it is measurable.. e.g. CCT.. yes it does measurably impact resulting shape of plant in a statistically significant way (less or more bushy etc), but the effect is small. it is never, ever going to convert a short bushy plant into a lanky one or vice versa. Most of the bro-science out there isn't even proven to be a small, statistically significant effect. it's just gossip and people too full of themselves to admit that the human senses and a sample size of a few plants with no control group is not going to result in a confident conclusion about anything. Keep the plant healthy and happy and if it has the genes to do so, it'll be high quality. What we impact is a small portion of the total beyond that. Try things one at a time with clones, if you want. take good notes. create a confident baseline expectation with them doing things in an orthodox way, first. This can be your control quasi-group. If you have seasons, that's going to throw a wrench into such plans as your enviornment chaning will fuck up what you see as far as comparing apples to apples. In my experience, the gimmicks and over-sophisticaited stuff is not worth it. the people saying things like "you have no idea what you are talking about" clearly have never learned about teh scientific method or taking any type of advanced science education. in the one study mentioned, it doesn't really fully flesh it out. What is the cost of this stress? do you lose 10% of yield for a 1% increase in trichomes? it doesn't really prove anything specific. Also, 90% of intial studies are later proven false or not repeatable. so, you always need a preponderance of data to be confident about such things. can stressing it create trichomes? maybe... but even if that is true there are other aspects to consider as to whether it is worth it. As above, i simply say... Keep It Simple, Stupid... KISS Principle.

You still have a little while to go. Some pistils are going brown, but there are still a lot of white ones and your flower is still bulking up. Normally flower is 8 to 10 weeks and outdoor normally on the longer side. You have at least 3, probably 4 weeks to go. It's like looking at a tiny green orange and wanting to pick. Generally, if the plant isn't foxtailing, you want to wait until 90 to 100% of the pistils are brown.

Think of trees. They have almost unlimited access to nutrients, but the leaves on some still change colour in autumn.

Hey, They can get out of hand really quick, but you can keep them in check with some predatory mites. Bugs will be stuck in the trichomes either way, so I would rather have a mix of predatory and spider mites stuck to the flower and no more spidermites around than only have spidermites stuck and still have the plant full of them. They do try to avoid them, because they get stuck and die, so isn't a huge problem. Some ladybugs will eat spidermites, but that is not the common species' main diet. Minute pirate bugs are great spidermite killers if you can get hold of them and they don't get stuck in the flower much. While you are waiting, I would scout and squash as many as you can to keep the population under control. One or 2 can turn into 100 or 200 fast, so for every one you kill now, it's 100 less tomorrow. Not exactly, but you get the point. Good Luck

if you want to guess based on when it went into flower.. figure 7-10 days before you saw preflowers formed. This won't inform much about harvest date unless it's a clone you are familiar with. once the calyxes are fully plump, start scoping trichomes. How much amber do you wantt? this is a personal preference you will need to learn. When you see it reach that preferred threshold, go ahead and harvest the plant. Easy-peasy. The closeups are fine, but if the calyxes aren't fully plump you don't have to scope the trichomes yet. they'll send contradicting signals if you look too early. Trichomes are aging and turning amber at various points all over the plant long before harvest time.

If not strain specific aka funky colour plant, then its your temps and deficiency : MOLYBDENUM Enter into youtube search : lex blazer molybdenum Page blocks links again !!!

Personally I'd wait another week before harvest. But if the weather in your area is close to turning then you may be best doing it sooner.

you need to cutttttit

That is looking ready to me. I would not leave it much longer than another week or it will start to degrade.

I’m not seeing many amber trichomes. So it looks like you still have time. General consensus is that you aim for 20% amber and the rest cloudy. Check in multiple spots and once you see this ratio you should be ok to harvest. I hope this helps.

No risk of mold? Let her Go another week & check the trichomes again :)

The best way to notice is when the plant material is no longer losing weight -- preferably it loses a few percent of moisture in cure. You never want it bone-dry, of course. Think what results at room temp with 58-62% RH is 7-8% of mass moisture content? Doesn't matter exactly what it is because we aren't using lab equipment to measure. It'll reach that targeted 'equilibrium' moisture content in cure with the proper temps and RH%. 2-way humidi paks make this much easier and give room for error when you do put them in a sealed container. Do not go cheap. Boveda work well. Integra boost humidi paks work like shit. I've kept a temp.rh probe in my storage buckets for multiple months. Boveda are +/- 1 RH, though the probe is admittedly +/-3%. Integra never kept them moist. I threw them out after a couple years of trying to use the cheaper option.... Integra Boost is trash. Anyway, until i got a very consistent drying process down and enough familiarity to adjust to different density of nugs, I used to weigh a few tester nugs of different sizes - tag or place in specific spots so you know which to weight as it dries. Once it stops losing weight, you know it's at equilibrium with the environemnt -- as i said above, you want the last little bit to gas off in cure. Ensures you don't over-dry. You'll get familiar with the weight of the nugs and the 'feel' of the nugs exterior.. you can learn to feel when they are close but not quite there. If you seal it up and they get soft / moist again, you remove them for more drying. Good to spot check after 4-8 hours or so... see how they react to a sealed container. Verify that you dried them enough to avoid growing weird shit in your containers. Maintinaing a consistent temperature and RH% will give you a proper drying length, too. The more consistent you are with this, the more predictable everything becomes. In addition to controlling enviornment you can wet or dry trim or leaves buds on branches or cut them into individual buds to dry to further impact how long it takes to dry... e.g. if you know it's going be a bit warmer or maybe a bit dry, you hang entire plants to delay drying times. pointn of reference.. In winter, i have a bedroom i use that is 68-70F. I used a humidifier to maintain 60% (58-60%). I wet trim and cut down to individual buds. It takes 9-10 days depending on density of buds. this is incredibly consistent because i keep the environment consistent. humidifiers are cheap... controlling temperature is not cheap. A big reason in grow in the winter. So with those temps/rh, if i left them on branches or hung entire plants, i'd expect maybe 12-14 days drying. If you have temp and rh spot on, you also can't over-dry, or at least it'd be incredibly difficult to do so. Can still ose excess terps to enviornment, but you won't get dry, brittle nonsense. When at equilibrium with enviornment as much moisture is condensing on the buds as gassing off - which is why the mass will remain constant at that point.