Gorilla Cookies Auto… PART 2

Havent gre in bx, was using hp . Both are still soils. Preloaded soils. So your ph is too low, bump it up to 6.3-6.5 range. Have good watering cycle, wet/dry rhythm is a must. They will get better if you will adjust this .

It's about the type of fertilizer you use, not the physical substrate that holds the water. The charge that comes with BX or HP bales is ~1EC. It's very low and it'll be exhausted the first week, so it really does need fertilizer from day one despite the charge of elements. I'd suggest shooting for 6. this gives a little leeway on each side if things go wrong. If you go a couple tenths lower or higher, nothing bad will happen and you stay near the acidic end of a good range which should improve results compared to more alkaline pH. If you treat it as a soil and use 'soil' fertilizers, 6.5-6.8 is what you want because it helps with availability of N, which is not necessary for ingredients that provide N in hydro/soilless fertilizers. The molecules that deliver N need microbes and other forces to break it down to be plant available. This difference is behind the 'why' even if i can't explain in detail. The ingredients for soilless fertilizers are 100% dissolved and 100% plant available upon going into solution.

Nothing too worry, would say bad air circulation ( roll down excess of pot like a sock, they dont need that wall with stagnant air inside ) and maybe heat, maybe slight underwater. Would not stress at all.

Hatte ich auch schon, bei mir war es wegen dem Licht. Waren noch zu empfindlich am Anfang und habe es etwas gedimmt nach ein paar Tagen wurde es besser. Und nach 2 Wochen habe ich es dann wieder hoch gedimmt. Hast du ein Messgerät um die Licht Stärke zu messen? Wenn nicht nutze die handy app Photone die kann dir eine. Richtwert geben von dem was du gerade hast. Ist zwar nicht 100% genau aber sie tut das was sie soll

Hi also auf den ersten Blick sieht es nicht so aus als ob es welche wären sie hängen wahrscheinlich nur runter. Aber mann erkennt es wahrscheinlich besser falls sie stärker werden und dann habe ich hier ein paar Tips wie du die Ursache findest Jüngere Blätter zeigen häufig schneller Stresssymptome, wenn es zum Beispiel ein Problem mit der Nährstoffaufnahme gibt. Ältere Blätter können ebenfalls betroffen sein, insbesondere wenn die Ursache ein länger anhaltendes Problem ist, wie Überdüngung oder schlechte Bewässerung. Ich würde noch einpaar Tage abwarten bis du was unternimmst.

is it soilless? Yes, it is important. And stop doing wahtever it is you think a "1/4" dose feed is.. sounds like incomplete irrigation to me. This will train roots to grow superficially as they turn toward greater moisture at the top due to the ncomplete irrigation. Watering is simple. Don't overthink it. 1) fully saturate with10% runoff (in soilless). If in soil, a minimal runoff barring any leaf symptoms is fine. This is so you don't leach off all those amendments you paid for in the soil, but you still want the entire thing to get wet. This is not "overwatering" 2) wait for appropriate loss of wait or 'dryback' -- not really about drying and more about the plant drinking. Rinse and repeat... If you get any droop, that is indicative of a poorly constituted substrate and nothing else... shouldn't see droop unless running a shit ton of water through th esubstrate and drowning the roots for 5-10 minutes or more. (not referring to a slow drip that takes 10-15mins to complete the task -- limits compaction doing this. this is not a large volume of water, just slow) If making it more complicated that that, it's probably more about OCD-type behaviour than any benefit from it. in soil if you run into a buildup in the substrate, extra runoff can help dilute that, but it's a reaction to a problem observed and not just done randomly. Flushing is stressful and slows the plant down, so tehre should be a good reason to do it. You paid for that soil, so you should minimize washing the nutrients down the drain that came with it. Promix Bx is essentially soiless after 5-7 days. It does come with a basic pre-charge of nutes around 1EC. A plant will exhaust that very fast. I use BX or HP - whichever is cheaper at the moment, but also add enougghvermiculite to bring the sphagnum peat moss to perlite+vermiculite to 50/50 (or 1:1, whichver you prefer). This is results in a better gas:water mix. Youou should rarely have to flush with a soilless growing method. That means you aren't adjustingn your formula based on what the plants tell you and overfeeding them for long periods of time. The 10% runoff maintains a consistent resulting EC of nutesin your substrate. This consistency is the primary benefit of soilless along with the nutes being 100% available to the plant the moment they are added. Any symptom seen is 100% caused by your formula and nothing else. (assumes it is ph-balaced. that should be common sense). This eliminates a multitude of other potential cuases to any symptom seen - making diagnosis an dfixing the problem easier -- plus, you should be able to avoid that particular problem in the future with a more optimized formula going forward. keep nutes of not only concentration given but also ratio of each nute.. or elemental ppm of each.. fertiization is a culmination of everything you've done since it was planted, and not just last night or last week.

promix with some added perlite -- essentially soilless after first 5-7 days. Nearly identical to what i use, too. Runoff will be different from what the substrate is. If you weren't religiously gettign 10% runoff before, you definitely had some buildup. If the plants aren't showing any major issues, just get some extra runoff well beyond 10% the next couple fertigations and it'll bring it down to a proper equilibrium. Your plants are a bit lush, so maybe a water-only with 10% runoff for a couple irrigations is in order. i'd do it slowly vs a 'flush' just so you don't go too far the other way. If the plant was in more dire condition, a flush would be warranted. If you see the plant start to progress a bit lighter, go to a normal fertigation with 10% or more runoff shortly after that. The advantage of soiless growing and 10% runoff is not that the resulting nutrient charge is exactly what you fee, but rather that it simply remains consistent. you'll chase your own tail trying to get runoff to be exactly what you feed. that is not necessary. Consistency is what allows for formula adjustments to take effect in a predictable way. Get some symptoms? adjust formula and it'll almost immediately change the reslting ratio and concentration of nutes in the substrate... maybe 80-90% transition the first 10% runoff and ~100% by 2nd. Initial runoff will read higher than what is actually in the substrate. I never bought a TDS probe. Don't need one. Read plant, adjust formula and stick to 10% runoff or more religiously. The plant dictates how much N/P/K/Ca/Mg/S it needs. Fine tuning of the formula is 100% from observing the plant and adjusting to what it says. When your formula works for 99% of genotypes, it's a good formula. The idea that these plants are picky stems from esoteric, imbalanced fertilizer formulas... some plants may handle it, but more than a few will not. Don't blame the plant. blame the formula. probably need 70-80% of N in flower compared to vege phase but otherwise fairly consistent levels of other nutrients have great results.

I would never use or recommend anyone give their plants a product with those numbers ........0-50-30.........it IS insane. 0-13-14 is about maximum and then only about every 10 days. Artificially pumped up monster bloom type buds end up massive and taste like shit, but don't give you the satisfacton, flavour or quality you should be looking for. Forcing plants with excessive feeding may get you "product", but if you want smooth smoking and tasty buds, slowly slowly is the way to go.

too much light is possible... is it droopy the last 2-3 hours of light cycle? Cycling from perky to droopy is okay, but if it's droopy the entire time, it's a "tired" plant that can't take anymore light relative to your co2, temp and rh conditions. Better conditions = more DLI possible. i assume the substrate is not dry? Common sense, but sometimes it needs to be asked. Obviously, if it's dry, it is wilting as opposed to tired. So you can rotate these around? Try putting it not in the center for a few days... then once it recovers start rotating your plants around or raise/dim light a small increment and keep it in the middle... Rotating might allow you to keep light at same intensity, which is obviously great for the other plants not in the hottest spot directly under it. Looks like top leaves are showing some deficiency? and if any of those symptoms are in teh wrong location (the "mobile" ones), even more evidence it's the light intensity. so, observe and find out when the droop starts.. if it's just the last several hours, probably the light intensity... even if it handled it up to this point... it may have just taken a couple weeks before it added up to enough stress to cause droop. Sometimes it's about the last several weeks or even a month of time before a symptom is visible.

Hmmm, brown spots, most common nutrients thay cause brown spots are, Ca, Mg and K. Which also happen to be the big 3 soil cations. Bit other nutes can cause it too, the symptom of brown spots is generally causes by oxidative stress.........a symptom of oxidative stress, where an imbalance of reactive oxygen species (ROS) damages cells, leading to tissue damage and visible spots. This damage can occur due to various factors, including environmental stress, heavy metal toxicity, or pathogen infection....... If it was from excessive light it would be growth closest to source. Leads me think it's is nute based. Little to no tip damage, ec is good, transpiration is good if water flowing. Potassium Deficiency: A lack of potassium can cause brown spots on the edges or tips of leaves. (Responsible for tugor pressure) would be drooping too if deficienct) Calcium Deficiency: Calcium deficiency can lead to brown spots, especially on new growth, and can also cause leaf edges to curl or become misshapen.(old growth primarily) Magnesium Deficiency: Magnesium deficiency can cause yellowing between the veins, which can then turn brown.(possible but I don't see interveinal chlorosis) Nitrogen Deficiency: A lack of nitrogen can cause yellowing and brown spots, especially on older leaves.(possible bit not whay I'd expect, more yellowing needed, possibly early) Phosphorus Deficiency: Phosphorus deficiency can cause stunted growth and brown spots on leaves. Manganese Deficiency: Manganese deficiency can cause yellowing between the veins of young leaves, followed by dark brown spots. Boron Deficiency: Boron deficiency can cause leaves to appear small and crumpled, with brown spots, and can also cause sharp bends in the trunk. I'd be taking a peek at soil moisture levels too, leaning towards more environmental. Who knows, get a pH before anything that always helps. Would tell me little of whats going on in the soil how saturated you are in Ca , Mg and K these 3 are vitally important for soil composition and if they are all antagonists in that they compete with each other for cations if the ratio is way off for any 1 of the 3 it can jist replace uptake of all the others wreaking havoc with the soil possibly messing with moisture retention. People don't think of oxygen as a nutrient but it is, it's very weak bond means it easily reacts. It's a requirement in soil, in flower with the heavy canopy and increased carbon sequestration the soil in flower can become slightly wetter than one is used to. When roots are saturated, the soil becomes waterlogged, and oxygen cannot reach the roots, leading to anoxia (oxygen deficiency). Under anoxic conditions, plants produce reactive oxygen species (ROS), such as superoxide radicals (O2•-) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). This gets shot up the stems with water and burns the epidermis layer. It's not so much a deficiency as much as it is sucking up free radicals along with everything else. Antioxidants, like vitamins C and E, can help neutralize superoxide radicals and other ROS, preventing or minimizing the damage they cause. If worried about chlorine use 1mg of ascorbic acid in 5 gallon jug will instantly dechlorinate and de chloramine your water. Just make sure to not add too much as it very strong acidifier. Magnesium is a nutrient that is found as central atom in chloryphyll, although it presents as mobile nutrient within the plant. It's also constantly used and replenished throughout a plant's life, as the Magnesium is spread all over the plant it can take alot of the radicals with it all over the plant as it seeks to replenishing, basically anywhere water goes. The more water that has passed through a part of plant more damage its getting. Not so kuch mobility but a side effect of water transportation, nutrient distribution and cooling. Soil contains reactive nitrogen species (RNS) due to both natural processes like nitrogen fixation by bacteria and human activities such as fertilizer use and fossil fuel combustion, which increase the amount of nitrogen compounds in the environment. Reactive nitrogen species (RNS) are chemically reactive molecules containing nitrogen, like nitric oxide (NO) and its byproducts, that play diverse roles in biological systems, including signaling and defense against pathogens, but can also contribute to tissue damage. 🤔 Nitrogen toxicity is possible too and it fits but if that were case you probably would have noticed delay in flowering. Reactive nitrogen species (RNS), particularly nitric oxide (NO), can react with reactive oxygen species (ROS), like superoxide (O2-), to form reactive nitrogen-oxygen species (RNS/ROS), such as peroxynitrite, which can lead to oxidative stress and cellular damage. Gluck, hope she recovers strong, buds looking frosty.