First Grow. Blue Dream Auto

This is just a young plant with big leaves. Node spacing looks fine, so the light is probably fine. Make sure internodes continue to develop without too much stretch and i'm sure it'll be as perky as any other healthy plant. ---from your diary, i see something that will lead to problems if given enough opportunities... "First 700ml watering for Big plant today" This is not how you water. You don't choose a volume to give at an interval of your choosing. This will only lead to problems in the long-run. Probably not related to your minor issue here, but if it improves, even better. Could be from some dry patches around roots related to difficult of watering properly with a small plant / big pot, which unless you just transplanted has been ongoing. Those pots have drain holes, correct? If not you need to dripp some holes before it gets even more unwieldly with a big ass plant in it. Shouldn't have tiny plants in big pots. It makes watering a pain in the ass and more difficult for no benefit. Even if you can avoid issues, there's no reason to do it. Easier to water and better rootball development when you step up in size as needed. Potting up does not shock plants unless you do tomething like squeeze the hell out of the rootball or thorw it against a wall etc... given a big pot and small plant, you still want to get it saturated all the way down, so that the drying pattern trains roots to drive down and not up. They turn toward greater moisture. That's real biology, not made up bro science. Increase the width of watering zone as the plant grows into the pot. As wide or slightly wider than the canopy is good. Under normal circumstances... 1) fully saturate with minimal runoff in soil - don't waste what you pay for by leaching it off. 2) wait for appropriate dryback, which you can determine by how dry it gets up top or with loss of weight since irrigation. If this causes any problems, it is the fault of how the substrate is constituted. Use more perlite or similar if it causes droop. This is normal watering behaviour and should not cause any problems. If you re-irrigate at some loss of weight, it will require the same volume of water as before. The length of time between irrigations will vary until it reaches some consistency late in a grow. It entire depends on how fast the plant drinks. You simply wait for the correct weight loss or 1" drop up top and repeat. obviously, don't let it wilt. A good wet-dry cycle reduces risks of rootzone issues. Proper wateriing habits described above trains deeper, better root system.

Hey man,no worries at all. I also start straight in the final pot, so you're not alone there. Fox Farm soil usually has enough juice to feed the plant for the first 3–4 weeks easy, especially if you're not overwatering or flushing it out early. I’d hold off on adding any nutrients until you see signs like lighter green new growth or a little slowdown, usually around Week 4. That’s when I start low-dose nutes, like 1/4 strength, and build up from there depending on how the plant reacts. Looks like you’re on a good track so far — just keep it simple and listen to the plant. Good luck growmie!

Leaves are not "sinks." They are value added and you should not remove them. they are not 'taking nutrients' from your plant. the cotyledons are irrelevant, but can be still useful as an early signal to adjust any fertilization choices. They'll be sacrificed first by the plant. Unlike all other leaves, they are not as functional. Wait for the plant to start to shed them, if it does. No reason to cut the plant when there is no benefit from doing so. Keep that sort of OCD-driven behaviour deep in the closet.