Chat

By continuing to use the website or clicking Accept you consent to our cookies and personal data policy and confirm that you are at least 18 year old. For details please see Privacy Policy and Terms

Syrup Sisters (1st grow)

majklsoft

174

8d ago

VEG

STIXX 50 Light Emitting Diodes/54W

SANlight

FLO

Stixx 50 Light Emitting Diodes/50W

SANlight

Tent

Probox Basic 40

Garden Highpro

Fan

Profan Axial Inline Fan 125mm

GardenHighpro

Filt

Filter 125-200-180/240mc3/h

Airontek

Light-Mix

BioBizz

Indoor

Room Type

LST

weeks 2-5, 7

Leaf tucking

weeks 3-4

Defoliation

weeks 3, 6-7

ScrOG

weeks 5-6

17 L

Pot Size

1.5 L

Watering

Start at 7 Week

1/6

20 hrs

Light Schedule

No Smell

Smell

10.5 L

Pot Size

majklsoft Hello! This is my first grow in quite a while — the last time was about 15 years ago, when I was a punk teenager. Funny story my mum recently confessed to me: back then, she and my dad secretly followed me to my “hidden” grow spot in the forest… and then ripped the plants out. 🤣 All these years, I was blaming some random asshole kid! 😂 No hard feelings though — they probably meant well. Anyway! Fast forward to today: I missed the feeling of growing, so I decided to start again, this time with three feminized autos on my balcony. I picked the Syrup strain from Buddha Seeds, since it’s supposed to stay small, discreet, and has a quick harvest. I germinated them in a glass of water in darkness for about 24 hours, until they sprouted. Honestly, I think this is the most foolproof and reliable method — it worked beautifully. In about two days they broke through the soil… and right into my soul. 😀 Together with my girl, we even named them after our mutual holy(wood) hot actress favourite. Within a few days I had to confess to myself they weren’t getting as much sun as I wanted for them (trying to be a good plant dad here). I tried moving them back and forth like a madman — from the east window to the south balcony. I even built a rolling stand so I could chase the sun around the balcony more easily. So I grabbed a ring light that was lying around (not for filming porn, I swear!) and put them on the night shift — 6500 K, positioned about 10 mm above them, giving roughly 200 PPFD. It seems to be more than enough to keep them super happy (I hope!) until I manage to get a proper grow tent. To be continued…

7 likes

2 comments

1/7

20 hrs

Light Schedule

No Smell

Smell

17 L

Pot Size

majklsoft I decided to pick the two strongest (Keyra & Margott) to move into the new tiny tent (40×40×160 cm, Probox smallest size). I know I should ideally put them in two separate pots, but this way involved the least amount of transplanting, and I didn’t want to stress my main actresses too much. Although now I realize I probably just postponed the stress for later. Anyway, the girls look quite happy once in the box, so I decided it’s time for a little training — they are hot chica sisters, after all. I just have to keep in mind that Syrup has a super short veg period…

6 likes

comments

Used techniques

LST

Technique

1/8

20 hrs

Light Schedule

No Smell

Smell

55 %

Air Humidity

17 L

Pot Size

Nutrients 3

Bio-Grow

0.125 mll

Fish-Mix

0.25 mll

Calmag

0.5 mll

majklsoft I think I almost overwatered them, since the soil hasn’t completely dried out even after 5 days, and they were a bit stunted — but now they’re growing again. I still haven’t fed them anything yet. And I accidentally broke Keyra’s leg during LSD — sorry, LST! The more skilled growers would probably just call it intentional supercropping… hint: white sheet (in best case laminated) under the bottom leaves which often touch the soil after LST will prevent against mold and also reflect light back to plant. hint2: do not ever trust the paper PH meters.. it told me that I have slightly acidic water which I was fixing with bit of cooking soda. once I bought propper Ph meter I realised that that was a bullshit and my water was on the opposite side of the spectrum!! so till now girls were receiving water with PH cca 8.0-8.5.. there is one pro atleast: when the soil is alkaline it allows the plants to get more nitrogen which is crucial for vegetation stage.. but from now on let us water with PH 6.3 cca

6 likes

2 comments

Used techniques

LST

Technique

Defoliation

Technique

Leaf tucking

Technique

Grow Questions

majklsoftstarted grow question 1mo ago

till when to practise LST? first girl shows preflower.. thanks!

Solved

Techniques. LST

likes

00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 1mo ago

Don't just "do stuff" Have a plan. The plan will dictate when and how you train the plant or prune it. e.g. i want 8 colas per plant. While i don't LST, it dictates when i should top and how often (twice). Bending a plant over before it has much axial growth (branches) doesn't do much good. So, make sure enough growth has occured to have some effect. Also, must do so before the stem becomes rigid / more likely to snap while bending it. Working backward from a target canopy - one that is not over-crowded - is the best way to figure this out. There's just too many variables, too many different needs and contexts for each grower. How much space you intend to fill with 1 plant, etc... I'd suggest shooting for about 3 colas per sq ft. More than that rarely improves yields... just causes excess stretching from greater competition for light. So, work backward from space the plant must fill.. this tells you how many colas.. devise a plan to make that happen with the least amount of wasted time and resources.

likes

Complain

Selected By The Grower

majklsoftstarted grow question 1mo ago

bad idea to transplant my autoflowers (day 22, entering preflower) now that I’ve realized the substrate (Biobizz Lightmix) is too compacted and takes 6–8 days to dry? What else can I do? I know transplanting causes stress, but isn’t slow-drying soil an even bigger problem? thanks

Solved

Setup. Substrates

likes

Ultravioletanswered grow question 1mo ago

Tricky, don't wanna transplant an auto, if waters moving too slow up through the plant try to increase the rate at which she uses the water in the pot. Higher temps with lower rh will force her to consume more water, but she will always want more oxygen in that rootzone being a big plastic thing by looks of it. If the soil is compacted just take a BBQ skewer and poke holes all over the soil allowing air to get inside the pot, make sure to have a little airflow of you can. No such thing as too much water only a medium that retains too much for too long. Don't let night cycle sit above 50%rh.

likes

Complain

Selected By The Grower

1/4

20 hrs

Light Schedule

25 °C

Day Air Temp

6.2

No Smell

Smell

50 %

Air Humidity

12 L

Pot Size

0.8 L

Watering Volume

Nutrients 6

Bio-Grow

0.7 mll

Fish-Mix

1 mll

Calmag

0.25 mll

majklsoft - introduced 7W far red light bulb to boost stretching (girls are VERY bushy) - slowly drying soil (so I drilled more holes on side of the pot like a cheap dyi airpot) - preflower Keyra (the bigger one) is what I would say a stretching phase and Margot (smaller) evidently falls behind but not stretching yet, I hope she catches her atleast little bit..

5 likes

3 comments

Used techniques

LST

Technique

leaf tucking

Technique

Grow Questions

majklsoftstarted grow question 1mo ago

Any idea what this could be? The rest of the plant(s) look fine, and I don’t see any moving bugs. Could it be a CalMag deficiency, light burn, or just mechanical damage from my clumsy hands? It’s been there already before I started with nutrients.

Solved

likes

RasendeRollo92answered grow question 1mo ago

Hey 👋 have to correct myself after reviewing your report. You’re leaves are still pretty green (there is a good amount of nitrogen in your soil) but those markings are not an excess of nitrogen. More likely you are lacking on potassium. Your plant enters flowering stages and needs more of it. That’s why it takes what it needs from out of fan leaves. At your stage you should give her 2ml/l BioBizz Bloom acc. To fertilization scheme from BioBizz. Sorry for confusing with first post, still was a little sleepy 🤷🏼 Enjoy your journey 👊👍🍀

likes

Complain

Selected By The Grower

majklsoftstarted grow question 1mo ago

This group’s full amazing folks. here’s a public pool question: My two Syrup sisters germed same day, but one’s realistically a week behind and only now entering flower They sadly share a pot. Bigger one now stretching. Terminate the runt or let them compete? Heart tends to keep.

Solved

likes

AsNoriuanswered grow question 1mo ago

I had few twins to grow, have tried 3-4 plants in one pot, eventually i never got desired result. Some growers here had amazing results. Yours is already behind, but with big root system, it would be stupid to leave it to rot, while other still grows. Try to lst bigger one as much as you can , clear lower well after final stretch. At least i would do that.

likes

Complain

Selected By The Grower

1/10

20 hrs

Light Schedule

25 °C

Day Air Temp

6.2

No Smell

Smell

55 %

Air Humidity

10.5 L

Pot Size

0.8 L

Watering Volume

Nutrients 5

Bio-Grow

2 mll

Calmag

0.4 mll

Bio-Bloom

1.5 mll

majklsoft 2nd girl still falls behind, I decided to use a scrog to help her / or help the canopy situation as the height difference and even lighting distribution started to be complicated to mantain got little tip burn so I dialed back and pit Grow aside. From top you can nicely see which girl is which. Margot having more poison green top leaves. Is she angry?

5 likes

comments

Used techniques

ScrOG

Technique

LST

Technique

Grow Questions

majklsoftstarted grow question 19d ago

About 40% of leaf tips show burn, 5 days after last feeding (Biobizz schedule, but 3× stronger than previous one). Medium: Biobizz Lightmix. DLI 47 center / 38 corners. Day 31 (autoflower, early flower). Temp 22-27C, 55-62% RH. Feeding today—should I lower nutes or any advice?

Solved

Leaves. Tips - Burnt

2 likes

TruTraTrianswered grow question 19d ago

Hey there! 😊 From the looks of it, those brown tips are likely caused by a mild nutrient burn. Your feeding schedule looks pretty active, and it’s easy to slightly overdo it—especially during the early stages of flowering when the plants are still adjusting. It could also be a bit of light stress if your LEDs are running close and strong. If the damage is mostly on the top leaves nearest the light, raising the fixture a little or dimming slightly could help. To correct it, I’d suggest giving a light flush with pH-balanced water (around 6.3–6.5), and ease up just a bit on the next few feedings. Check how the new growth looks—if it’s healthy and green, you're back on track! You're doing great—small issues like this are totally normal. Happy growing and good luck with the rest of the run! 🌱✨

likes

Complain

Selected By The Grower

1/8

20 hrs

Light Schedule

25 °C

Day Air Temp

6.2

No Smell

Smell

55 %

Air Humidity

10.5 L

Pot Size

1.5 L

Watering Volume

25 cm

Lamp Distance

800 PPM

CO₂ Level

Nutrients 4

Bio-Grow

0.4 mll

Calmag

0.3 mll

Bio-Bloom

3 mll

majklsoft ..

4 likes

comments

Used techniques

Defoliation

Technique

ScrOG

Technique

1/5

30 cm

Height

20 hrs

Light Schedule

27 °C

Day Air Temp

6.3

Weak

Smell

55 %

Air Humidity

10.5 L

Pot Size

1.5 L

Watering Volume

25 cm

Lamp Distance

1000 PPM

CO₂ Level

Nutrients 3

Calmag

0.3 mll

Bio-Bloom

3 mll

Top-Max

3 mll

majklsoft …

4 likes

comments

Used techniques

Defoliation

Technique

LST

Technique

Grow Questions

majklsoftstarted grow question 7d ago

cca 10d ago, I found early signs of overfertilization. I reduced nutes, but yellowing continued. After a flush 2d ago, things got worse (now also edges browning). I now suspect potassium deficiency or still nute burn. Next watering is near—should I flush again or feed properly?

Open

Leaves. Edges burnt

1 like

Answer

Ultravioletanswered grow question 5d ago

Everything you're feeding is organic. What does that mean? It's not readily taken up until microorganisms break it down into smaller pieces. Why does that matter? Generally takes two to six weeks for the organic matter to be fully broken down in the soil and become available to plants. Feeding organic nitrogen 3 weeks into flower is not helping, plant doesn't want any more nitrogen, skewing your ph Nitrification is the process by which plants convert organic nitrogen firstly into NH4+, then process that into NO3-, Different forms, different charges, different ph. At a pH of 6.2, nitric acid is about 20% as efficient as it would be at 7.0. Everything you have ever fed has been organic, your running pH of 6.2, CEC of the soil is full, microorganisms just continue to break down organic nitrogen into the soil, skewing the ratio of PH dramatically. Your EC within the medium is full, as the plant uses less and less more and more will remain in the soil. This will turn your medium acidic. When ammoniacal nitrogen exceeds 20% if the total nitrogen, it can lead to various detrimental effects, including inhibited growth, reduced photosynthesis, and potential tissue damage. Excessive ammonium can disrupt nutrient uptake, particularly calcium, and lead to an imbalance in carbon and nitrogen metabolism. Different forms of nitrogen have varying degrees of mobility within the soil. Nitrate (NO₃⁻) is highly mobile and easily leached, while ammonium (NH₄⁺) is less mobile due to its attraction to negatively charged soil particles. This difference in mobility affects how easily these forms of nitrogen are taken up by plant roots and how susceptible they are to loss from the soil through leeching.

likes

Complain