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Grow #1

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1165
5 years ago
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4
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks Technique
ScrOG
weeks Technique
Topping
weeks Technique
Defoliation
weeks Technique
Perlite
Grow medium
Coco Coir
Grow medium
19 L
Pot Size
2.5 L
Watering
Grow Conditions
Week 1
Vegetation
12.7
cm
inch
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
12+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
1+ nutrients after
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Commented by
basementgrown basementgrown
6 years ago
Day 1: 6/11/19 *Strain and Breeder is not as listed. I took these cuttings from a friends DWC setup. Strains were marked "Orange" , "Shangri-La", and "Golden Bean" -Transplanted clones into 2 gallon fabric pots -Watered in with about 100ml of water (ph was 6.3, added 1/2 tsp of GH CalMagic) -Running lights 24 hours into tomorrow as I was having difficulties with my timer, will address tomorrow Day 2: 6/12/19 -Lightly watered with half strength nutrients -Concerned about light leaking and bugs getting in through the passive intake screen. Open to suggestions. -Sprayed lightly with Neem Oil after work. Saw a gnat near the passive intake screen outside and decided to apply as a preventative. -Timers are back on track (18/6) Day 3: 6/13/19 -Watered with only ph'ed water -Concerned about the droopy growth from the front Golden Bean. She was turgid just yesterday. Thinking it could have been neem oil, over/under watering, or the fact that i sealed the passive intake screen but left the outtake on. -Turned off 300W light based on suggestion from user. Also altered fan settings to raise humidity, will check on this after work -The front Golden Bean perked back up after a few hours but now the Orange looks stressed. Need to dial in ppms better so I know everything is getting proper nutrients -Came home from work to find my roommate accidentally unplugged the whole setup for about 3 hours. They look okay but the timing of this mishap couldn't have been worse. -Found a tiny spider on the ground. Nothing appeared in the pots though. -Raised lights significantly since i saw some whitening at the tips Day 4: 6/14/19 -Watered with 5.5ph/185ppm nutrient solution. Think I will start amping that up as soon as they get a little healthier. -Raised lights even higher, approx 30 in now Day 5: 6/15/19 -No water for today. They dont appear to be drinking it all yet. -Removed dead or dragging leaves -Plants still look pretty beat up from the overheating. Noticed some new growth on the Shangri-la -Noticed small spots or holes in a few that look like potential pests Day 6: 6/16/19 -Watered with 6.3ph water only -They appear to slowly be greening back up, hopefully they continue to respond well to the light height Day 7: 6/17/19 -No water again today -Removed some more bleached leaves
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Grow Questions
basementgrown
basementgrownstarted grow question 6 years ago
I just got a TDS meter and was curious what an optimal ppm range was?
Solved
Techniques. Defoliation
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motaman311
motaman311answered grow question 6 years ago
200 ppms sounds sufficient. Ideal PH range for hydro (typically and this varies of course for strains and times of life cycle) is 5.8-6.2. PPMs are less important than having a proper PH. If PH is off, you will get nutrient lockout and your plant will have all sorts of issues. Slowly work your way up with the PPMs and remember less is more and not all PPMs are created equal haha.. Meaning 200 PPMs of grow feed isnt equal to 200 PPMs with bloom and a P/K booster.. So you can burn your plants or have deficiences even with a correct "PPM" because of nutrient imbalances and how the plant feeds. Happy growing! 👍💪
basementgrown
basementgrownstarted grow question 5 years ago
Is the droopy growth (pictured) a result of over watering or leaves just getting heavy?
Solved
Leaves. Wilting
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CRiSPrGrow
CRiSPrGrowanswered grow question 5 years ago
Hey there basementgrow, yeah those bugs are afids, one of the best ways to get rid of them is with bacilus thungerensis (BT) and (BT israelis) , these are beneficial microbes that will attack and parasite the larvae of these afids. Second it doesnt look like you've have been overwatering because i can see the leafs are not puffy but that downwards drooping is a symptom of root problems probably from a combination of nutrients and overwatering before. So what i see is you're giving two different micro nutrients , you should really choose only one as they probably both have N in them which is probably what is causing issues in the root zone. Choose the one with the least or no N in it then make sure you give enough to maintain the calcium and magnesium intake. The roots will eventually fix themselves as long as you follow a strict wet/dry cycle, otherwise you can use a chelation agent such as enzymes or humic acid once a week and this should break down the problem roots and gve a boost to your plant. Hope this helps ! 🚀
basementgrown
basementgrownstarted grow question 5 years ago
Im planning on my final defoliation to be on Day 21 flower. Should I remove every fan leaf/any leaf not directly attached to the bud or is that too much? How do some of you go about your final defoliation?
Solved
Techniques. Defoliation
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Wicked_Stix
Wicked_Stixanswered grow question 5 years ago
Hey I think removing every fan leaf is going to be too much. The only defoliation you want to do at this point is anything that is directly blocking budsites from getting light and to make sure the plant has enough air flow to prevent moldy buds. When your plant reaches maturity at the end of flower it pulls all of the nutrients out of the fan leaves to feed the flowers and bulk them up. If you dont have enough fan leaves then it will start pulling nutrients out of your sugar leaves and you can end up with brown leaves in your buds. It will affect the flavor and final product. Hope this leads you in the right direction. Good luck!
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WeedTheNorth
WeedTheNorthcommentedweek 16 years ago
Hi there, out of curiosity, how close did you have your lights to your plants? You don't need to throw away your lights, but you do need to back them up, your babies are cooking. It's hard to overwater plants in coco especially past seedling stage but you do want wet/dry cycle to promote strong root growth. Feet wet/ankles dry. I suspect your lights were extremely close causing the bleaching, curled leaves and leaves being dried/crispy. I would disgard any damaged/burnt leaves, ensure good air flow around canopy. I usually start my LED'S 30 plus inches away while slowly lowering 1 inch per day until you reach your sweet spot. 15-18 inches is prime for the lights that I use but yours are different so you have to observe each day to how your plants respond. Listen to what your plants are telling you, in this case the leaves are curling upwards and are crispy as chit. She's trying to say she is way too hot. Your stems are most likely red because of the light stress. PH could be lowered a tad 6.0- 6.3 but otherwise I believe the culprit is lights to close. I hope this helps you. You've come to the right place, best of wishes, Stalks Strong!!
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented6 years ago
@OhcanaDAbiz, Thank you for your suggestions! Seriously greatly appreciated. My lights were 24in off the ground which made them about 16-17 in off the canopy. I raised them to 24in above the canopy and may even try 30 today. Thank you. Im going to add new pictures for todays progress.
goarilla
goarillacommentedweek 16 years ago
Too much light, too much nutrients, too much soil. It might be a very good idea to start over, fixing this will take some time and you will have to wait longer before you will fill out that tent and start flowering. That being said ... Nursing these plants back to health can be a rewarding and educational experience. I would do any combination of the following - Throw out all the LEDs and replace them with a cheap 110W T5 (CFL) light https://www.secretjardin.com/catalogue/lighting-for-indoor-culture-secret-jardin/lamps-for-indoor-culture-secret-jardin/tneon-2x55w/bl,product,95,0 Or only use about 100W of LED grow lighting. - Dilute your water with rain/demineralised or RO water. My tap water is 0.8EC I dilute to 0.4EC and alternate watering between ... the dilution (0.4EC) and rain water/ro/demineralised water (0.08EC). - I would spray the stalk and foot of the plant gently and lightly daily twice for as long as necessary with low EC water (0.4EC or lower). We want to get the purple out of your stems ASAP. - I would add a cloche/humidity dome to keep humidity high (75ish) while also keeping temperature low (22-24C). Spray the sides of the domes with little bit of water when they are dry - I might consider a flush when the plant is up for it - when it's big enough to winter the required overwatering to fix the high nutrient levels in the soil ... remember you fed an already fertilised soil ! - Don't focus on the ph ... unless this truelly is a no soil grow (cocos). - Look at the plant, take notes. It's the bad times that need the best observations.
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented5 years ago
@@lilbp420, i gave them a normal watering with proper pH today and was planning on doing the same tomorrow but I have not entirely flushed and checked runoff yet. this is the first week they are starting to look healthy and i thought a flush might be too much this week. they seem to be drinking pretty slowly anyways as the top of my pot is damp the next day. if you think they can handle it though id like to check those results as soon as possible. as for pictures in normal light, the room im growing in is generally very dark and didnt want to turn the lights off during the day and use flash. if you dont think this is a problem please let me know.
lilbp420
lilbp420commented5 years ago
@basementgrown, looking up this week. Have you flushed with Ph correct water and checked run off for tds and Ph? If you over feed in the first weeks you might find you have nutes built up in the medium. I would try flushing with a up to a few gallons of water if your runoff is a really high tds or the Ph is way off. What you have listed right now isn't too bad. I'm actually thinking you might be a little light on Micro. If you can add pictures under normal lighting that would be great.
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented5 years ago
@@lilbp420, thank you for the advice chief! i have absolutely been monitoring my ph and will slowly start lowering my lights a bit now that im seeing new growth.
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Wicked_Stix
Wicked_Stixcommentedweek 95 years ago
If you have any more questions or concerns feel free to ask.
Wicked_Stix
Wicked_Stixcommented5 years ago
@basementgrown, no problem. We are all still learning... good luck flowering them.
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented5 years ago
@Wicked_Stix, Thank you for taking the time to help me out. I'm still learning a lot and appreciate the help.
MovingOn
MovingOncommentedweek 45 years ago
I think that actually is a real silverfish.
MovingOn
MovingOncommented5 years ago
@basementgrown, I don't think you need to worry about silverfish in the garden. You could just remove it if you want to. https://homeguides.sfgate.com/garden-pest-control-earwigs-silverfish-30126.html
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented5 years ago
@MovingOn, recommend any preventative course of action?
Philindicus
Philindicuscommentedweek 125 years ago
Buds are looking very frosty they may bulk up a little more over the next couple of weeks but in the end your going to have some nice smoke.
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented5 years ago
@Philindicus, yeah i definitely cant complain for my first grow! cant wait to smoke this batch and continue improving
Philindicus
Philindicuscommentedweek 85 years ago
The latest photos of the plants look good. If those were older fan leaves lower on the plant it could be old damage or deficiencies that appear more pronounced at this point.Photos of leaves from previous weeks showed some older past issues. I would go by how the rest of the leaves are currently looking. It gets difficult to keep track but I would gradually remove any damaged leaves a few at a time to help determine if there are any new issues.
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented5 years ago
@Philindicus, thats what i assumed so thank you for clarifying that and taking the time to check out my grow and assist!
Philindicus
Philindicuscommentedweek 45 years ago
I think since you just had the one bugs you can remove it by hand. You need to be careful spraying neem oil. Never spray when the lights are on it can burn the leaves. As far as removing leaves I would hold off doing that your plants aren't that dense you can just tuck or tie them out of the way. I would also suggest increasing your nutrients gradually using GH feed schedule as a guide and by what your plants are telling you. Hope this helps. https://generalhydroponics.com/feedcharts
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented5 years ago
@Philindicus, Thank you for the advice! I am using a modified GH schedule that a grower has used many times with success. I am aware my ppms seem pretty low but im not seeing any deficiency signs so ill follow the schedule until I do.
CRiSPrGrow
CRiSPrGrowcommentedweek 45 years ago
Hey there, hope i answered your question, to never overwater again try the bag lifting technique www.youtube.com/watch otherwise, anything else you need just let me know ! hope this helps 👊
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented5 years ago
@CRiSPrGrow, thank you for your thoughtful response!
Cannibalgardens
Cannibalgardenscommentedweek 35 years ago
These girls will recover gonna follow t[ see how they turn out the plant itself is resilient and strong , it is a weed. Best of luck looking forward to updates.
basementgrown
basementgrowncommented5 years ago
@Cannibalgardens, thank you for taking the time to check them out. please feel free to leave suggestions throughout this journal. trying to learn as much as i can!
Belverde
Belverdecommentedweek 135 years ago
Have fun is first most important things in this game 🙂👌👍✌️
lilbp420
lilbp420commentedweek 55 years ago
They looking good. Keep on those pests, I've only had to deal with a few fruit flies.
Cannibalgardens
Cannibalgardenscommentedweek 35 years ago
Ya they look ok and will get better , as long as smoke in end is good then it worth it and the experience🍕🍔🍟🍤🍗
motaman311
motaman311commentedweek 16 years ago
Range of PPMs are going to be different depending on your set-up and size of plants too. Lately ive found 400+ PPMs will cause nitrogen toxicity in Veg and I try to work up from 350ish to 5-550 in flower. I recommend starting at 1/3 of feed schedule and watch how the plant reacts and go from there. I have found better results when keeping my PPMs under 600 and trying to optimize the feed by reading the plant and where it is at its lifecycle.