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First Grow- White Widow ScrOG SF1000LEDs

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5 years ago
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Grow Conditions
Week 15
Flowering
38.1
cm
inch
Height
12 hrs
Light Schedule
11+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
blackstrap molasses
1.321 ml/l
Big Bloom - Fox Farm
Big Bloom
1.321 mll
Tiger Bloom - Fox Farm
Tiger Bloom
1.321 mll
Grow Technique Usage
ScrOG
Technique
Commented by
Troy_McClure Troy_McClure
5 years ago
feb. 11 - ph. 7 - wet - yellowing has intensified on plant 1 with nutrient burnt tips, some bent and pointing up, but otherwise the smell is increasing, the tricomes are building and the bud is getting significantly larger each day - plant 2 is slowly growing buds, but tricomes are developing seemingly at the same rate as plant 1 despite the lack of size growth, but otherwise the same issues on the fan leaves are persisting but slowly - feb. 12 - very yellow leaves all over plant 1 - plant 2 just stagnant as hell ph. 7 moist Feb. 13 -ph:7.3 - dry/ moist - 2.5 gal water phd to 6.3 + 12ml of roger bloom + 12ml of big bloom + 15 ml of apple codes vinegar - plant 1 has burns on the upper leaves of the bud, twisting and yellow with some burnt tips - I am turning down the lights from 80-70-50-80 = 280 watts - now 60-50-50-60 = 220 watts - some pistils are darkening and just starting to curl mostly, tricomes are pretty clear feb.14 - they love the food and packed on a ton of Trichomes - I’m hoping the lack of growth made plant 2 dense and its seemingly with a higher concentration fo Trichomes - ph:7.1 feb. 15 - ph: 7.3 - moist - the root ball is massive, getting the probes in is difficult, even sticking my finger into the soil has gotten tough - the yellowing really intensified this week, signifying week(s) errors - lights too strong - not enough nutrients but when fed, fed too much in the single batch - ph fluctuation, can’t stop the soil from rising past 7 in 2 days after feeding constantly with 6.3-6.5, never has the soil received anything different, and started at 6.3-6.8, yet the ph sits in the mid 7’s on average - lowered lights and additional 30 watts now at 50-40-50-50 watts = 190 - burns have continued to climb up the buds, getting close to the newest growth on buds - ph. 7.3 - moist Specifications:😎👇 Seeds: - 2x White Widow feminized seeds from Crop King Seed Tent: - 4x4x6 Mammoth Grow tent LED: - 2x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for veg - 4x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for flower (280 watts - 80-70-50-80 back left, back right, front left, front right) Pots: - 2x 0.5 L starter pots - 2x 5 gal smart pots after transplant Soil: - Pro-mix containing mycorrhizae and perlite, used for starter pots and mixed at roughly 1:3 ratio with Ocean Forest - Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, used in the 5 gallon pots and mixed with roughly 3:1 ratio with pro-mix - note: pro mix was mixed thoroughly with ocean forest in the 5 gal pot, then pro-mix was used on the top layer, in and around where the transplant will be to help the early veg stage avoid getting too "hot" via nutrients. Nutrients: - Fox Farm Big Bloom - Fox Farm Big Grow - Fox Farm Tiger Bloom Inline Fans: - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 6" (exhaust) - AC infinity CLOUDLINE S6 6" (active intake) - AC infinity 6" ducting Mini fans: - 2x Wind Devil 6" fans Carbon Filter: - 2x iPower Carbon Filter on both inline fans - note: carbon filter on intake fan as basement had mold issues in furnace room far removed but same floor, some mold issue in other room, cat litter in basement, thus, avoiding all risks and sleeping sound at night :) all mold was killed, scrubbed, cleaned, sprayed, painted, and sprayed again before setting up. Humidifier: - TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier Dehumidifier: - Frigidaire 30-Pint 3-Speed Dehumidifier Timers: - 2x VIVOSUN dual Digital Timer - 2x Kuman Digital Timer
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Grow Questions
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
My grow tent drops down to 65 (75-80 with the fan on low settings during 16 hour light cycles) during the off 8 hours of the light cycle, I would like to establish a more consistent temperature, or at least ideally keep the grow tent closer to 70 while the lights are off. How?
Solved
Techniques. Defoliation
like
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimaranswered grow question 5 years ago
hi, iam using small Infrared heater with thermostate to keep the Temps around 70 degree. Those little ones are doing great. Ive choosen one with only 300 watts to save my electricity bill. And it wents on if temperatures are dropping. ........But you can start with extern conditions.. do you have aplace that is wamer=? can you " isolate" the Tent=?for outside with styropor// cardboard//And last solution is giving her external heat from a heater...
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
What should I do about the old leaves? likely ph imbalance and/or nute deficiency (Phosphorus -redding older stems + browning of dry leaves) and Nitrogen- slow light green new growth) - the issues seem to be resolved, but the leaves are flaking almost. mostly referring to plant 2
Solved
Leaves. Dropping off
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Mr_Weeds_Autos
Mr_Weeds_Autosanswered grow question 5 years ago
I would remove them, remember whatever damage that has been done due to a deficiency will stay that way ... Plus having dead leaves around can leave room to invite unwanted insects to your environment because they love to feed on the dying leaves.
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
soil ph is erratic fox farm ocean forest : pro-mix (3:1) - ph 6.3-6.8 run-off ph: plant 2: 4-6 plant 1: 5-6.8 watering / feed ph: 6.3-6.45 soil ph after water /feed: 5-7 soil ph when dry: 7.5-8 both plants treated 100% the same phosphorus deficiency / ph imbalance help please
Solved
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Leaves. Color - Dark-brown
Plant. Stem - Red or purple
1 like
JinksyGrows
JinksyGrowsanswered grow question 5 years ago
Hello there. PH mal-adjustment with, what looks like, a P/Cal deficiency. I also used Ocean Forest in my first grow because the pre-nutrient amended soil was attractive to me, but it kind of hurt more then it helped. Same as you, I ran into almost constant pH problems when using OC and it frustrated me endlessly (ended up using a neutral soil for the last 2 gallons for last pot up). Good news, I wouldn't panic over this too much. Changes need to made, probably some trial and error, but they will come back. Red/purple stems can be a symptom of P deficiency but I see your night temps are around 19 degrees Celsius and could this can also change the colors of your stems, laterals and leaf veins. Copper spotting does not look like splash back to me at all. I feel you're looking at a phosphorous and calcium deficiency. The uptake of these nutrients is optimal at 6.2 and with the current swings in your pH (and also work in conjunction with one another), I don't think the plant is taking much of it up. You can give it as much as you'd like, but she just may not be having it. Suggested solution: (Same thing I did to mitigate and remedy the same symptoms) Next feed (or two) I would simply "flush through" a good amount of pH balanced water @ 6.2-6.4. I would not recommend over-compensating and feeding anything about 6.6 as this may fix one problem while creating another (possible lockout of other essential nutrients). In these "flush throughs" I add my phosphorus blooming supplement with cal/mag (Usually 3/4 dose. Trust your gut, though). This way, you can properly flush out excess salts/nutrients/developing pathogens while not starving her of the P and Cal she desperately wants right now. After a couple consecutive flush throughs, you should notice the pH start to balance itself out. When you return to normal feeding (if pH is back in order) I would also suggest watching how much Nitrogen supplementation you give the ladies. Micro nutrients that work along side Nitrogen, like zinc, copper and iron, can interrupt the uptake of P and Cal/Sulfur and keep the soil mal-adjusted (uptake of these nutrients is around 5.5-5.7). OC medium is hard to gauge when it comes to Nitrogen. It's highly amended with these macro/micro nutrients and can certainly cause trouble. There are no hard answers to this question, but rather a roadmap to possible remedies over time. Your girls will be just fine. Just need a little tweaking!👍 I hope this helped my friend. If this is the answer you're looking for there is no need to "pick" it. Remove the question and keep it for another day😉 (Weird how there's a time frame limitation to questions...I don't understand why). Cheers and good luck, no matter what course of action you take!!✊
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
Harvest on Mar.7, any tips or tricks welcome. I plan on watering just 1.5 gal each on Mar. 4, turn off the lights for 36H Mar. 5 @7:00am-Mar.7 @6:45pm (15 min before lights on normally) I hope that the soil is dry for harvest. cut down small stems, hang, remove dead leaves, dry
Solved
Buds. Other
Techniques. Other
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Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimaranswered grow question 5 years ago
Hello, If you want to go with drytrimming you need a very good well areated place with a good tempeature and RH to let them dry ( for example on a clothes rack in your living room). If you dont have such a good place or dont want to use your living room😃. Then its better to cut in branches and get them a good wet trim, and hang them . In 95 percent i go with wet trimming. Its some work , but absolutely worth. And you can use the suagrleaves to do some butter, oil, shatter anything you like. I even keep fanleaves to make smoothies ( just pick them and freeze them to store) the ugliest leaves it put to my compost.. or into my wormfarm.. so i dont throw away anything. The stalk and branches get sheddered and go to compost too
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JinksyGrows
JinksyGrowscommentedweek 135 years ago
Budding up nicely Troy👌. I hope the pH swings have settled for you. She does seem quite happy☺️
JinksyGrows
JinksyGrowscommented5 years ago
@Troy_McClure, I'm tuned in my friend and I await the next update. Keep up what you're doing and you'll carry them to the end, no problem.👌
JinksyGrows
JinksyGrowscommented5 years ago
@Mrs_Larimar, Exactly. I find that either people hate it or love it... but when the problems start with Ocean they don't seem to stop and it's a constant battle. I'm really enjoying my normal, non-amended soils. I like the idea of Ocean Forest because I felt the lack of control would be good and it would do my job for me. Now, I need that control back and basic, quality mediums are all I'll be hunting for now. I LOVE Dutch treat but my hydro shop stopped carrying it for stocking reasons (not enough to go around). Hence the 50/50 split of dutch treat I had left and the other 50% is canna-terra (which I actually do really like too...just not the potential pest problems it can carry). Keep spreading the word about Ocean, new comers need to know it may not be worth the trouble!!😮
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommented5 years ago
@JinksyGrows, I absolutely agree. I know the ocean forest soils as troublemaker. Especially in seedlingsstage. because they are so " filled up" with "goodies"
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Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 185 years ago
Using carboardboxes for the first days is avery good option too. I take biiig cardboardboxes, putting strings inside and hang them up ito the box. And here depends it to the temperature and rh of the envoirement too, if i let the box open or close it.... i let them hang into until the small branches snap with aloud noise, after tis i put them into jars growdiaries.com/diaries/30769-urban-chili-2-0-test
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@Mrs_Larimar, Hey, thank you as always for you very generous help and advice! I think I will be doing it in my tent, my house rH is around 40-44%, and I have both the humidifier and dehumidifier to keep it around 55% rH. My basement is where the tent is located and its usually around 63-73 temps. So with the tent, I will have the carbon filter and fans helping out, with the exhaust fan set to the lowest setting 1/10 (approx 30cfm) and I think I will put both mini fans almost on the ground on low settings, just to make sure the air is moving a little, and face them towards the or floor. I think I will be doing a light wet trim, because I burnt the leaves so much with the lights, I rather get rid of all the the dead stuff Ive had to look at for the last month. Then I will have them into Jars with some integra boost 62% packs
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 165 years ago
Great visualisation of the Budsites. woow.....they look veery good
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@Mrs_Larimar, thank you! We are hanging in there!!! they are protecting the most valuable places very well! very resistant strain :)
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 105 years ago
Thats a nice SCROG Setup...... looking like alot of airflow for the Plants. is it a dehumifidier under the plants=? Or the Heater=?
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@Mrs_Larimar, thanks Mrs! the screen was late, but its coming along nicely during the flower stretch. It is the 30pt dehumidifer and there is no heater. temps go from 65 at the lowest on a cold day to 82 at peak on a warm day
Alejangrow
Alejangrowcommentedweek 35 years ago
Currently curing my first grow of some cks white widow now. Hope you have good luck with this strain. Looking forward to seeing what you can do with these girls. 😎👍🏼
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@Alejangrow, how are your girls doing?
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 25 years ago
Nice Setup. looking well prepared and well set. I would check again if you have aplace that is warmer ... or if you can help to keep the heat inside by isolating the tent, and last step give them a infrared heater
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@Mrs_Larimar, thanks for the tips, I've got the grow tent climate stabalized at 70-74 during 18H LED on and around 66 during 6H LED off. the humidifier needs to run 24/7 to avoid rH dropping below 40%
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 195 years ago
I see lots of cloudy trichomes now… yaay Looking very good. iam impressed of your " First timer" grow…..where will it end.. Looks like aoptimal setup
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 185 years ago
Days are counting down......she shows lots of resin
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 175 years ago
getting closer now.....lovely budsites
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 75 years ago
Get well soon.... i hope you get rid of your Cast soon
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 55 years ago
very well prepared and structured grow
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommentedweek 45 years ago
They are growing Vigor with a happy green... wonderful
grownblow
grownblowcommentedweek 55 years ago
hey man, good luck with the grow. im waiting on my sf1000 as well and i just wanna know how far from the plant u have the light in veg?
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommented5 years ago
@Troy_McClure,iam very courious and gonna follow up
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@Mrs_Larimar, They had a good sale, so rather and wait until I see if I need them, or if they would significantly help, I went for it. I plan on having some really bushy 4x4 SCROG so they might be helpful for that, but I will try to be very careful if I do use them all for flower. Thank you for the advice as always, greatly appreciated
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarcommented5 years ago
@Troy_McClure,sounds abit much 4 times the sf-1000 for flower......iam going with 150 watt for a 3x4 tent and its lots of light... iam growing between 4 and 6 plants in that tent and all plants developed nicely no lack of light
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JP148
JP148commentedweek 65 years ago
Maybe it’s a typo but you stated you were fed them Big Bloom . If so isn’t that the wrong fert. For mid veg state. Would explain some of your issues. Good luck 👍
JP148
JP148commented5 years ago
@Troy_McClure, yeah flowering hey I’ve been wrong before just trying to help. Nice grow
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@@JP148, hey, the feeding schedule on the fox farm products suggests to use it with flowering
JP148
JP148commentedweek 195 years ago
Beautiful grow 🌱🍒. Congratulations on ur 1st place win. 👏👏👏
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@@JP148, Thank you very much
illest
illestcommentedweek 155 years ago
Nice grow! Its cool to see look at the plants and try to figure out whats wrong with them. Looking forward to seeing how you rebound!
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@illest, Thanks buddy! yea this one was a tough home stretch for me, soil ph and dialling in the climate took the girls for a rough ride but they are super resilient!
Noma420
Noma420commentedweek 125 years ago
Your ladies are growing beautifully !!! Nice job... waiting for the next updates!!! Good luck man💥💥🤙🏾
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@Noma420, thanks!
Gardener_of_Goodness
Gardener_of_Goodnesscommentedweek 15 years ago
Quality start to what looks like a quality grow! Great write up and smart setup! AC Infinity extraction? Which lights are you using? SF? Are they dimmed for seedling stage? Following! Keep it up mate and all the best! 👌👍💨
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurecommented5 years ago
@Gardener_of_Goodness, hey, thanks a lot! I'll be adding the specs details today and provide more pictures!
smokinghut
smokinghutcommentedweek 75 years ago
Troy, as a rule of thumb, plants prefer constant nutrient availability over boosts. Excess nutes stress plants out and nute deficiency does, too. Also, nutrient accumulation in soil / mix is more often than not toxic to roots. Phosphorus, Potassium and Nitrogen behave in totally different ways. NITROGEN N is highly volatile, hydrophilic and soluble in water. It will evaporate very rapidly if wet and exposed to air. It moves quickly throughout the medium. Plants absorb it quickly. It is easy to accidentally flush away. Think of it as sugar. It makes plants grow, basically. Avoid slow release N capsules when approaching the flowering stage, but, in moderation, they can be relatively safe during initial growth. POTASSIUM Comes in salt form (really toxic, never let it accumulate, concentrate). Soluble in water. Very ill advised to boost K. Used in flowering stage. IMPORTANT RATIOS Nutrient absorption depends on Ca:Mg ratio, pH and the CEC (Cations - reactivity of your soil) and several other factors https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/5essential-parameters-crop-management/ PHOSPHORUS P is needed throught the plants life cycle. It is a tough cookie to handle. P deficiency cannot be completely regenerated, but symptoms may be made more mild. Phosphorus is highly reactive, so it is never found in free form, usually coming as phosphates or triphosphates. Phosphates are not as water solluble as N, for example, triphosphates are more. When using soil, one should take into account that P is relatively immobile, for it tends to bind with Fe (iron) present in clay particles. Therefore, one should incorporate reactive phosphate rock to the soil mix one or two months in advance, so as to have a fertility foundation on which to build upon. And think of keeping the availability of this nutrient stable. Read up P deficiency in staple crops for a good background on the subject. If making supersoil, stay away from bat guano. It is not only gross, but potentially harmful to one's health, especially if used 'in natura' (a guano collector may have been patient 0 for covid19 - one of the more solid theories around). Never use 'raw' or 'fresh' manure either, for it ferments and elevates soil temperature. Manure must have been prefermented (a manure heap, if properly tended, will produce usable fertilizer in 4 to 6 months). And it is toxic and a potential disease vector, as well. If using any animal droppings (guano, cow, chicken, turkey), mix with soil one or two months in advance, mix and water constantly. Worms help speed up the process. https://www.fda.gov/food/food-safety-modernization-act-fsma/raw-manure-under-fsma-final-rule-produce-safety
Havingago
Havingagocommentedweek 195 years ago
Grow was awesome... Well done 👍🍺