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Goldenslit420
Goldenslit420started grow question 5 years ago
Unsure how to respond to grow question responses. I will have to post my full response separate because it wont fit....... Ok. To all the awesome people who responded: Thanks I do not use fertilizers. I need a low maintenance grow, why I chose Super soil. Only, FF happy frog soil
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Week 7
Leaves. Other
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NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 5 years ago
Late in flower, so it'll probably be fine regardless. Maybe, a cal-mag supplement? Rust spots can be other things too. FF fertilizer can get you through, but a better complete system will do you wonders, even in soil. You won't experience this sort of stuff later on. The soil you have will provide all the nutrients for a fairly long period of time, but will require more at some point (maybe, a 12-12 from see would last? or 1 week of vege, etc. Does depend on length of grow, obvsiouly). Fertilize more later on. Just hydrate early on until you see a slight deficiency of any type, then regular feeding is good. Likely need to slowly ramp up even then. 1/2 times a week with ff is all you ever need or you burn your plants. Don't underwater or overwater. Water it and wait for top 1/2" to 1" to dry. Learn weight of pot when saturated and at this point for one more point of verification. Slight drying of substrate is good, but wilt on plant is not. Ca deficiencies take 60 days to present themselves. By the time you see it, it was occurring long ago. You can definitely stagger harvest, if you want. If it's the ripeness you want, cut it off. I'd do this over a short window of time to reduce chance of nanners from stress, though. 2-3 days isn't enough time to fertilize anything even if it starts to grow a nanner. I rather just keep things timed to gether, keeps it simpler for drying/curing. just think about how it would impact what you do after this point and if it has no negatives, all good. Also, since so close to harves, i wouldn't react ot the deficiency at this point. Just stick to water-only since i don't see any major fade. You can save a bit of effort the last 7 days or so. don't do the esoteric stuff at end of harvest -- like ice water or not watering or 36 hours of darkness etc. None of that stuff is proven to be effective and is just a blind stab in the dark. Leaving light off on harvest day isn't a bad idea, but it doesn't need to be dark for any extended period of time. You want to harvest in morning before lights cause plant to matabolize nutrients before you cut it down for drying, just as you want it dark where it is drying -- same reasons as it's alive for a while after you cut it. If you stagger your harvest, i don't know what's best in this regard. tidbit -- i cut 1 day early from previous trichome observances (clones). It really does develope more after you cut it down. Check with loupe after 2 days and compare trichomes of cut / drying buds.
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NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 5 years ago
If no fertilizers.. milk and molasses? Something the plant can metabolize that has calcium and magnesium in it without causing more problems than it solves. No idea if calcium contained in milk would work for a plant, but it's been used before. Molasses contains lots of the secondary nutrients and i think magnesium too? Oh, food-grade epsom salt - 1g/gallon would take care of magnesium problem. Garden lime is a soil additive you may need to amend with, or find some supersoil that has a higher concentration of calcium/magnesium in it - they'd likely be adding the same thing or similar. If you don't add garden lime when you start, it doesn't do you any good, so it doesn't help you now. Takes forever before a plant is able to make use of it. I think someone else mentioned pH? Check what you put in and what comes out. What comes out won't tell you the pH of the soil, but it'll tell you if it's more or less compared to your irrigation, which can help. A slurry can provide a bit more accuracy, but not much. 6.5-6.8 is probably sweet spot for cal/mag, specifically. 6-7 is likely good enough. If it's too alkaline or acidic, it could cause the display of cal/mag deficiences and any others even if optimal concentrations exist in the soil. LED is notorious for causing cal/mag deficiencies. When i used FF ferts and FF OG soil, i had cal-mag dficiences late in bloom like clockwork. You may need to break the low-maintenance rule for this one aspect in some way to avoid it. Milk and molasses might work immediately - refer to google for concentrations. Garden lime additive for soil before grow begins (doesn't help now, or any current grow). Epsom salt (food-grade) tends to be around the house and is cheap, otherwise, if you don't mind adding a gram per gallon - i am in coco so i add it each time, but maybe 1/week for soil? But, that's only going to help if it is a Mg deficiency.
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jimmythematch
jimmythematchanswered grow question 5 years ago
Could be the fox farm you just gave her, never give ff the amount it says on bottle Always cut back a little bit it helps because that stuff is strong
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MadeInGermany
MadeInGermanyanswered grow question 5 years ago
Do not worry so much, the lack does not look buddy :-) Try adding a little Cal / Mag if this has not already happened :-)
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Goldenslit420
Goldenslit420answered grow question 5 years ago
Cont. from above question...........Only, FF happy frog soil and Nature's Living auto Super Soil, water when needed. I've used Zero fertilizers/nutrients for my entire grow, except for the 1/2 tsp FF Tiger Bloom a couple days ago, to this plant. None of the other plants are exhibiting these symptoms. Shes probably closer to 9wks (normal life expectancy for this strain). I never overwater because she cant have run-off, underwatering is more likely. Honestly, I've used tap water with all my grows and never had an issue, it's not "hard." My new digital soil PH meter always says 7, so maybe it's not working. As far as trichomes: they are about 60% milky, 10% amber, 30% glassy. Maybe just harvest the most mature buds? I'm not worried about her yield. ??
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