get watts out of your head.
umol/s -- intensity of light -- this directly relates to par and how they calculate it per m^2.
umol/s * J^-1 -- efficacy.. are you saving money?
you can easily save 100-200 off your lights' initial cost, but if you spend 50% more per month in electricity and the extra heat makes them last only 2-3 years, are you really saving money?
So, get something with an efficacy up near 2.7 umol/s*J^-1 or higher. save money every month on electricy and not have to but them as often.
these type of lights will last 5-7 years before they are 80% intensity -- heat and manufacturing quality differences. So, find a qb or light strip modules with 3k or 3.5k (google) temp with LM301B diodes (H at end is same thing, don't pay more for it). if it mixes some 660red diodes in there, it's about as good as you can get with an LED.... probably is, depending on heat dissipation, but at .7-2.1A it's not much.
as far as how long, with what you got you could safely go 24h. i'd do what is convenient 16-18h, imo. won'tmatter much.
now, you upgrade to lights with proper specs, you use the DLI chart in my week 3 diary.. look up your umol/s for 12 hours or whatver, and make sure you aren't deep in the red. google about upper limit of light wihtout CO2 to confrim any of this. if you add co2 you can go higher than my chart shows ~1500umol/s per meter squared.
you'l have to convert your umol/s per foot - simply divide by your sq footeage, then multiply by 10.76 (goole meter squared to squre feet) - that's the par value you use on the chart.